Flood lights....Do you have the correct IP?

[eyecatcher]

I wasnt impressed that one of my LED 20000hrs floodlight had failed after less than 100hrs service.

 

It was well and truly a flooded light, full of water.

The rating on it was IP65 which is pretty much the only option you have.(off the shelf)

 

I.P meaning ingress protection on lights varies from pretection of a light water spray to fully submersible for your pond and swimming pool.

 

The number 6 refers to protection against the ingress of dust from 2-8hrs(I am thinking ok for the tent in the Sahara)

The next number id about water:

 

5: Protected against jets of water, limited ingress allowed (Not Waterproof)

6: Water projected from powerful jets, hosepipes, water will not enter the enclosure in harmful quantities (Not Waterproof)

7: Can be immersed in water upto 1m deep for 30mins (Not Waterproof)

8: Can be immersed in water under pressure for long periods(Is Waterproof)

 

Mine has failed through rainfall or drips although the rating suggests they are tested with 12.5litres/min through a 6mm jet nozzle.

 

Global and Home Pro, TW have a boatload of slick looking IP65 floodlights, many cheaper brands have no rating (the old dont touch dichroics) despite the long list of can dos, and only the brand W Racer had an IP66 for sale.

 

So, for anyone still awake at this point, the IP65 is the Hobsons choice here, and i am thinking its not good enough, or maybe i have been unlucky with mine (as its one of two)...but really there is no point highlighting a lamp can last 29000hrs if the unit  floods after one rainy season.

 

How have your floodlights lasted and how exposed are they?

[Crossy]

All our IP65 floods that are out in the weather are flooded. Those that are even slightly protected by the roof overhang are fine.

 

Drilling drain holes in the bottom of the units won't compromise the IP65 rating (from the rain point of view) but should let any water that gets in get out again.

 

[Anythingleft?]

Unfortunately what it says on the tin so to speak and what you get are two different things.... go with the drain holes...

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[wgdanson]

And here was me thinking 'what has floodlights got to do with the internet'?

[OneMoreFarang]

https://www.banggood.com/search/ip67-led-flood-light.html?sbc=1

 

I ordered lots of parts from them. Make sure you have tracking for delivery and it will arrive in Thailand in about 10-14 days.

[NanLaew]

Maybe drill a small vent hole in the bottom of these before installing and connecting them up? I think that the water that's collecting inside may not be from water intrusion inasmuch as condensation due to the extreme temperature ranges between turning off and on in a high-humidity environment. LED's get hot too.

 

We had heavy duty battery chargers for a remote sensing system where the cases would slowly fill up with water despite the chargers being mounted in a sheltered location on a wooden trestle table. Spoke to the manufacturer and they said it was this condensation build up between hot and cool duty cycles so just drill a small hole in the bottom of the case.

Edited December 9, 2018 by NanLaew

[eyecatcher]

3 hours ago, wgdanson said:

And here was me thinking 'what has floodlights got to do with the internet'?

well, I hope you have learned something then.

[eyecatcher]

The cases for these new floodlights are like flat screen tv s. The backs are steel ribbed and really I wouldn't know if I was drilling into something important.

Even the one I removed, notice the water collected inside the bulb area, nowhere else. 

 

yes drilling the version from 10/30 yrs ago was easy as they were bulky and the reflector was a crappy piece of bent zinc or something, and they were rubbish tbh.

Drilling is out of the question really, that's not what you are supposed to do with a new light.

 

condensation???? come on really? if it can collect there then it should evapourate there. Brown water, whats going on there.

[Crossy]

I always end up taking the beasts apart anyway, to replace that crappy 6" bit of flex they supply (a quick check to see they work first). I've also replaced LEDs and drivers, (marginally) cheaper than new units.

 

Casework is usually a die-casting of aluminium alloy, easy to drill. With it in bits it's easy to see where one could drill drains.

 

The water inside is definitely rain, capiliary action will see it get anywhere.

[grollies]

An IP65 rating here is similar to the CE mark. Anyone can say their kit complies but, really? And I've seen CE markings 'forged' in the UK too so it's not just Thailand.

[eyecatcher]

3 minutes ago, grollies said:

An IP65 rating here is similar to the CE mark. Anyone can say their kit complies but, really? And I've seen CE markings 'forged' in the UK too so it's not just Thailand.

Ironically the IP system was developed in Europe and then became the international standard.

 

I pulled out several lights from the box while the Global Assistant over my shoulder kept saying daylight or warm white, pretty much all of the instruction leaflets confirmed they were all made in .....you guessed it China.

[canopy]

Drilling a hole will surely invite an ant colony in.

 

[eyecatcher]

2 hours ago, canopy said:

Drilling a hole will surely invite an ant colony in.

 

Not sure a colony will survive inside a light that gets upto frying pan temperatures.

But they can try if they want!

 

Incidently drilling a hole surely negates the "6" prefix number which refers to ingress against dust