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Posted

This is due to the switch being wired to disconnect the neutral side and not the hot side. Which means the lamp has 220VAC sitting on it relative to ground. 220V has a peak at 311 Volts and leakage from the tube to the surrounding area (ground) will cause it to flicker or even glow continuously but very low currents so is usually quite dim. Some of mine do this also.

I'm assuming the flicker is dim when it is off and not bright like when it is starting?

Also, is it an electronic ballast or standard - lot's of difference in how to answer the question.

Posted
This is due to the switch being wired to disconnect the neutral side and not the hot side. Which means the lamp has 220VAC sitting on it relative to ground. 220V has a peak at 311 Volts and leakage from the tube to the surrounding area (ground) will cause it to flicker or even glow continuously but very low currents so is usually quite dim. Some of mine do this also.

I'm assuming the flicker is dim when it is off and not bright like when it is starting?

Also, is it an electronic ballast or standard - lot's of difference in how to answer the question.

for me same same, neutral is switched, wrong wire....

Posted
This is due to the switch being wired to disconnect the neutral side and not the hot side. Which means the lamp has 220VAC sitting on it relative to ground. 220V has a peak at 311 Volts and leakage from the tube to the surrounding area (ground) will cause it to flicker or even glow continuously but very low currents so is usually quite dim. Some of mine do this also.

I'm assuming the flicker is dim when it is off and not bright like when it is starting?

Also, is it an electronic ballast or standard - lot's of difference in how to answer the question.

Its a standard ballast

its just annoying being that its the bedroom one so i will swap the wire thats being switched and see how it goes

thanks

Posted

Forgot to mention how to correct it if it is due to neutral/hot switch problem. Two leads supplying the AC to the unit should be coming in to a terminal screw strip. Should be able to reverse the two connections there, but if not experienced in working with hot systems (want the breakers off anyway) get an electrician to correct it.

//edit - see you already posted the correction. :o

Posted

thanks, is the ballast just there for power factor correction so the meter actually reads the amount of electricity used?

Posted
thanks, is the ballast just there for power factor correction so the meter actually reads the amount of electricity used?

The ballast is to supply the high voltage kick to start the plasma in the tube. The tube resistance is high when it is not conducting but once it lights up (conducting) the resistance is now very low. The ballast compensates for the change in resistance so as to not supply too much current when it is conducting.

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