Puzzled about new washbasin faucet

[cheeryble]

I’m going to load a few photos then move over to laptop

 

 

 

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[Kwasaki]

Fixed same way as any tap to basin tap position.

[lopburi3]

That is a hot/cold water tap - not normally used here in Thailand; but hose appears to be usable with normal Thai plumbing.  

[CGW]

If you only have cold water, connect to one hose then "plug" off the other hose with a blind plug/bull plug whatever you call them.

 

[cheeryble]

Hey guys i lost my post here it is 

Lovely fast answers but check out my concerns

I'd like to use it if I can, it's built like a brick shithouse I can hardly lift it......and surely AS stuff must work

Thanks!

 

I’m going to load a few photos from iPad then move over to laptop to type.

OK.

I went to Homepro and they had scant choice for H and C kitchen sink mixers.

On the way out I saw an expensive American Standard with a very big reduction. Only two left, one box already opened.

It has to fit in an existing corner behind a sink, and I wan't sure whether it would fit (in pic 1 middle pic of install faucet you'll see a rather od piece of triangular white plastic which goes with the nut and washers) I just figured if there's a problem I can exchange it for paint.

 

It looks like AS made a shorter faucet then offered a taller version by putting a shank underneath tightened with an allen key.....so you see two versions in the manual.

 

When I bought it I was wondering how do I tighten the nuts at the top of the flexible connectors.......especially as some day the connecting hoses may/will need replacing and they'll be up in an awkward gap in the back corner nuder the granite top.

Now Ive looked at ti this morning and I separated the extra shank.

I have discovered that one can unwind the connector hoses from about three inches up inside the tap shank by hand. 

No nuts.

But this seems not right. Are they tight enough when they're done up by turning the flexible connector at a distance of near three inches from where it connects? Surely not OK?

If they have some sort of no-nut screw thread on the top end can one buy replacement hoses of their type in future?

Edited May 2, 2019 by cheeryble

[lopburi3]

3 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

Hey guys i lost my post here it is 

Lovely fast answers but check out my concerns

Thanks!

You did not state any - before or after.  Only that you were Puzzled.  

Edit:  or have you found a way to post with lemon juice invisible ink?

Edited May 2, 2019 by lopburi3

[CGW]

11 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

I have discovered that one can unwind the connector hoses from about three inches up inside the tap shank by hand. 

No nuts.

But this seems not right. Are they tight enough when they're done up by turning the flexible connector at a distance of near three inches from where it connects? Surely not OK?

Do they have O rings on the connector hose adapters? I have had similar and the O ring makes it water tight when it is hand tight.

[cheeryble]

Do they have O rings on the connector hose adapters? I have had similar and the O ring makes it water tight when it is hand tight.

Good thinking CGW.

I shall check later gotta run out.

I was concerned about not only having a proper seal but that it doesn't stick shut when it's time to renew......but with a dab of lubricant an o ring would still shift.

 

Others have a good experience with o rings?

 

Edited May 2, 2019 by cheeryble

[moontang]

for water line connectors there will be rubber washers,not really o-rings.  But are you talking about how the hoses connect to the faucet?  Have seen o-ring type washers on those and the tend to be proprietary.  I use Delta, Moen, etc..all made in China, and will last about ten years if not beaten to death.  

 

You might possibly need a special deep socket type wrench to tighten right at the faucet..they even included the wrench on a couple I bought in the US.

 

It is also possible that those hoses can rotate without unscrewing the connection.  Just grab from three inches and keep turning it to the left..worse thing that can happen is it comes unscrewed..

 

think of a garden hose connector.....you tighten it firmly to the faucet, yet it can still turn freely and prevents the hose from binding.

 

 

Edited May 2, 2019 by moontang

[eyecatcher]

A decent tap always had two long steel tube connectors where you hand tighten about a foot from the tap.

should never use a spanner on a kitchen tap.

Then the flexi is a piece of piss to fix inside the cupboard..

There really is not enough room for two flexis directly under the tap.

[moontang]

Those appear to be proprietary connectors, and not off the shelf 1/2 inch water lines, as indicated by the red and blue on the lines.. they may however, be 1/2 x 3/8 connectors, but can't see the nuts clear enough.. again, could be some kind of snap on proprietary connection held in by a horseshoe type cotter pin.  Those will rotate without loosening. 

[cheeryble]

I’ve got two types of tap connector but they’re abandoned in a garage in Brighton for 15 years.

 

The one relief in the sea of pain that is getting the tap nuts on is that the basin is sagging down on one side (fits under granite supported......or should be.....by wood.)

So the good thing is the basin is best whipped out, then easyish to fit the tap nuts, then build new support and replace the basin.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect

 

[lopburi3]

3 hours ago, lopburi3 said:

You did not state any - before or after.  Only that you were Puzzled.  

Edit:  or have you found a way to post with lemon juice invisible ink?

You edited your post after I posted above (post 5 had only first para at time I wrote above).  

[cheeryble]

You edited your post after I posted above (post 5 had only first para at time I wrote above).  

Yeah, posted pics from iPad then wen to MacBook but by the time I wrote it all I think it was time out and u guys had beat me to it.
I think. Maybe.


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[sometimewoodworker]

4 hours ago, cheeryble said:

When I bought it I was wondering how do I tighten the nuts at the top of the flexible connectors

One of these

if you have to

[cheeryble]

5 hours ago, moontang said:

Those appear to be proprietary connectors, and not off the shelf 1/2 inch water lines, as indicated by the red and blue on the lines.. they may however, be 1/2 x 3/8 connectors, but can't see the nuts clear enough.. again, could be some kind of snap on proprietary connection held in by a horseshoe type cotter pin.  Those will rotate without loosening. 

I havent had time to check yet, but suspect the tap end of the flexible connector may be just a screw in end with an o ring as CGW suggested. Yes, may be proprietary, but very simple.

[johng]

I had a similar tap that was in a difficult corner, the braided hoses started to leak right near the tap connection..it was impossible to get anything on the nuts to undo or tighten them..couldn't even get to the  bigger securing nut to remove the whole tap as "Somchai" had concreted it into the sink support structure..in the end I gave up and  cut the tap off with an angle grinder !!

[cheeryble]

Should have checked my paperwork more carefully, it shows the top ends of the connectors, in fact I had already undone them. They look good, but think I’ll check about replacements for future as it may likely be a AS spare.
The exploded diagram actually has a mistake 24 and 25 are shown identical in fact the one that fits between the bottom of the extensi9n shank and the granite is largish o ring whilst the one underneath is as shown and seems to fit into the sort of triangular plastic piece shown below.
The o rings look slightly shiny I’ll presume they’re slightly lubricated if not what would u use? In fact I’d like to use something a little tacky to hold 24 and 25 in place as it goes in.





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[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, cheeryble said:

The o rings look slightly shiny I’ll presume they’re slightly lubricated if not what would u use?

The best is silicon grease, then 2nd choice silicon oil, then Vaseline.