1 hour ago, Lacessit said:

My experience is that cold is more detrimental to batteries than hot.

Savour that experience - it is unique to you ???? fact is they don't like heat for a lot of reasons ???? 

1 minute ago, CGW said:

Savour that experience - it is unique to you ???? fact is they don't like heat for a lot of reasons ???? 

Not unique at all, if you want to consult RACV callouts for flat batteries in a Melbourne winter. More like an epidemic.

6 minutes ago, Lacessit said:

Not unique at all, if you want to consult RACV callouts for flat batteries in a Melbourne winter. More like an epidemic.

This aint Melbourne, here you cook the battery.

1 minute ago, monkeycu said:

This aint Melbourne, here you cook the battery.

You may be right. My experience is batteries here last 5 -6 years. Lucky to get 4 in Melbourne.

I do take the precaution here of opening the bonnet for about an hour at home after a run. That's when the temperature inside the engine bay is at its maximum.

If worried disconnect the neg side and wrap it in a rag. Or else just go buy some jumper cables incase to have and ask a neighbor or someone for a jump. That is really my answer as is easiest. 

Two months just disconnect the positive I do it all the time never have a problem.

1 minute ago, thailand49 said:

Two months just disconnect the positive I do it all the time never have a problem.

Depends what car you have... Others have already outlined that it could interfere with the electronics / immobilization.... 

 

The best option for the Op and the integrity of his car and battery is to utilize a battery tender - something designed for the job such as the C-TEK model already posted in this thread. 

2 hours ago, Lacessit said:

Not unique at all, if you want to consult RACV callouts for flat batteries in a Melbourne winter. More like an epidemic.

Temperature extremes are not ideal for your battery, both hot and cold weather impacts the longevity and effectiveness of your battery. 

 

In Thailand, there is no cold weather extreme to impact the battery performance. Batteries in Thailand are impacted only by the heat... (Unless the car is parked on the Top of Doi Suthep during a cold spell !).

2 hours ago, Lacessit said:

RACV callouts for flat batteries in a Melbourne winter.

There's a big difference between flat and Knackered, heat speeds up the chemical reaction & totals them, they wont hold charge due to sulphation, higher end cars tend to go to the trouble of fitting battery in a cooler place to help with this recognised fact.

If I don't keep trickle chargers on lawn mower battery, bike battery & Generator they wont last a year as none of them are run very often, found that out the hard way - on more than one occasion! _

Yes - I'm a slow learner! ????

As mentioned above, just disconnect the battery leads and your battery will be ready when you return.  I've done this for 6-months plus on numerous occasions with no problems.  Never had an issue with any computer settings (although I had to reset the clock).  If you pull the battery (which is unnecessary), DO NOT put it on concrete as it will never charge again. 

I had a battery kill switch on my 1997 Buick for the last dozen years I owned it.  I had a 2 amp power drain that I just could not isolate, and I tried every fuse, circuit breaker, relay, etc.  It is easy to install right at the battery between the battery terminal and the cable.  Very inexpensive.  It lasted 11 years and then it got a bit quirky so I replaced it with another.  There are many versions out there.  I bought mine at Autozone in the USA as I recall, but they are all over the internet.  In case the local auto stores don't carry it, you can find similar ones at boat and marine stores.  Oh and once I am pretty sure that once it confused and confounded some would be car thieves.  It comes with two big hard plastic keys (one is a spare), the other I kept on my key chain. 

 

https://www.delcity.net/store/Master-Battery-Switch/p_4872.h_106787.r_IF3003?mkwid=xGY2xcK6&crid=11472933143&msclkid=1d58cc3c726a1f77988490d857e7d066&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - PLA's(BSC)&utm_term=4577198188279710&utm_content=Ad group %231

Charge the battery fully before you leave and then disconnect the minus pole. ( Then you can't make a short with your tool)

 

   Plenty of juice left when you come back. 

33 minutes ago, gk10002000 said:

I had a battery kill switch on my 1997 Buick for the last dozen years I owned it.  I had a 2 amp power drain that I just could not isolate, and I tried every fuse, circuit breaker, relay, etc.  It is easy to install right at the battery between the battery terminal and the cable.  Very inexpensive.  It lasted 11 years and then it got a bit quirky so I replaced it with another.  There are many versions out there.  I bought mine at Autozone in the USA as I recall, but they are all over the internet.  In case the local auto stores don't carry it, you can find similar ones at boat and marine stores.  Oh and once I am pretty sure that once it confused and confounded some would be car thieves.  It comes with two big hard plastic keys (one is a spare), the other I kept on my key chain. 

 

https://www.delcity.net/store/Master-Battery-Switch/p_4872.h_106787.r_IF3003?mkwid=xGY2xcK6&crid=11472933143&msclkid=1d58cc3c726a1f77988490d857e7d066&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - PLA's(BSC)&utm_term=4577198188279710&utm_content=Ad group %231

It's nonsense to offer such a piece of advice. I didn't read that the OP's losing power somewhere. Why would you buy and install such a thing if it's not needed? 

 Just switch an Amperemeter between plus at the battery and a volt/amperemeter and you will find what's draining the battery.

An easy trick to take out one fuse after the other.

Sometimes the glove box light stays on and drains enough to empty your battery in a few days. Electric is tricky, right? 

Thank you guys so much for all the advice above! 

Looks like simply disconnecting the negative pole is quite easy and feasible, I think I'll just go with it.  Also trickle charger is really a good gadget that I didn't know before, although I may feel more relaxed rather have everything unplugged/powered off while I'm away for a long time, maybe I'll get one of those anyway someday in case of need.  Thanks again, all! 

55 minutes ago, Isaanbiker said:

It's nonsense to offer such a piece of advice. I didn't read that the OP's losing power somewhere. Why would you buy and install such a thing if it's not needed? 

 Just switch an Amperemeter between plus at the battery and a volt/amperemeter and you will find what's draining the battery.

An easy trick to take out one fuse after the other.

Sometimes the glove box light stays on and drains enough to empty your battery in a few days. Electric is tricky, right? 

   If you can read with understanding I did say I tried to isolate the drain but could not.  As far as not reading that the OP's losing power somewhere, well, t is a reasonable assumption that the battery/electrical system of the OP may have a drain some where, especially on an older care.  Wiring harnesses do degrade, get nicked, etc.  Instead of trying to isolate and find some little light, or switch that is stuck, and spend time doing that in the hot and humid weather, a five minute catch and eliminate all solution is to install the battery kill/disconnect switch.  There are many many places a small short could exist. 

9 hours ago, jkcjag said:

I'm curious as to why you remove the battery. If left installed it is not drawing any current, so no different

Correct. I remove the battery as a theft deterrent.

Give the car a good run just before you go and disconnect the negative terminal. 

9 hours ago, Lacessit said:

My experience is that cold is more detrimental to batteries than hot.

its the humidity here, my mechanic asked the battery company why in europe a battery would last 5 years straight,

but in thailand 1 year does it in, the reason was the humidity creates a creep connect

6 hours ago, brokenbone said:

the reason was the humidity creates a creep connect

Was your "mechanic" Thai? - humidity has nothing to do with it! - slight misunderstanding - the plates in the battery are submerged in "acid" humidity has no effect, heat does, when it is charged all is well, when it is not charging the lead breaks down (sulphation) and shorts out to the next plate, the heat here amplifies this reaction. 

1 hour ago, CGW said:

Was your "mechanic" Thai? - humidity has nothing to do with it! - slight misunderstanding - the plates in the battery are submerged in "acid" humidity has no effect, heat does, when it is charged all is well, when it is not charging the lead breaks down (sulphation) and shorts out to the next plate, the heat here amplifies this reaction. 

he meant a slight connection between the two poles output through condensation

13 minutes ago, brokenbone said:

he meant a slight connection between the two poles output through condensation

I hope you smiled and corrected his misunderstanding? ???? 

On 5/21/2019 at 12:56 AM, SteveK said:

You can buy one of those solar powered trickle chargers which just clips onto the battery terminals. I left one on for about 18 months when working abroad and it worked perfectly, car was not left in the sun but the small solar panel was left on the roof of the garage. In a car park you could leave the solar panel in the windscreen and park on the top level of the car park, or on an outer space which gets sunlight in the daytime.

 

The other, much more expensive option, is to buy one of those portable jump starters, charge it up on the mains and leave it in the boot of your car.

Where  can you buy  those solar chargers from cheers 

On ‎5‎/‎21‎/‎2019 at 6:54 AM, Don Mega said:

If the battery is flat after 2 months of sitting I'd be looking to find what is draining the battery, if there is a concern I'd disconnect the battery terminals.

One should always disconnect the battery. Even the clock can run the battery down after long enough. I left my car for 15 months and the battery was fine after a recharge. Still using same battery after 8 months.

Make sure you disconnect and re connect the battery terminals in the correct order, so you don't get a spark from the positive to the car body.

If not removing battery from car, can just disconnect earth lead. If getting a friend to recharge battery occasionally, makes it easier if take battery out of car and give it to them, unless giving keys to get into garage ( if it is in one ).

12 hours ago, Nemises said:

Give the car a good run just before you go and disconnect the negative terminal. 

Also helps to top the tank up to the very top. Stops condensation getting into the fuel.

3 hours ago, CGW said:

I hope you smiled and corrected his misunderstanding? ???? 

well, that was the response from the battery company

On 5/20/2019 at 5:56 PM, SteveK said:

You can buy one of those solar powered trickle chargers which just clips onto the battery terminals. I left one on for about 18 months when working abroad and it worked perfectly, car was not left in the sun but the small solar panel was left on the roof of the garage. In a car park you could leave the solar panel in the windscreen and park on the top level of the car park, or on an outer space which gets sunlight in the daytime.

 

The other, much more expensive option, is to buy one of those portable jump starters, charge it up on the mains and leave it in the boot of your car.

Years ago I too used a solar trickle charger. Worked perfectly.

On 5/20/2019 at 8:54 PM, Don Mega said:

If the battery is flat after 2 months of sitting I'd be looking to find what is draining the battery, if there is a concern I'd disconnect the battery terminals.

Indeed. My car will start after 7 weeks when parked in temp. below zero on the airport home.

10 hours ago, thaibeachlovers said:

One should always disconnect the battery. Even the clock can run the battery down after long enough. I left my car for 15 months and the battery was fine after a recharge. Still using same battery after 8 months.

Make sure you disconnect and re connect the battery terminals in the correct order, so you don't get a spark from the positive to the car body.

If not removing battery from car, can just disconnect earth lead. If getting a friend to recharge battery occasionally, makes it easier if take battery out of car and give it to them, unless giving keys to get into garage ( if it is in one ).

Absolutely, if the vehicle has an electrical drain then yes disconnect the battery.

Lots of good ideas here. Bottom line most all new cars and motorcycle have a "parasitic drain" which is the current used when the system is idle (key off), part of this is clocks, computer memory, sound systems, security systems etc. Sound systems (head units and power amps) often us a trickle to keep capacitors charged so they do not make a pop noise when turning on and can be a substantial drain. System devices should have non volatile memory and or battery/ capacitor backup for short term battery disconnection. However they are all different and disconnecting the battery may cause some functional errors that need resetting most can be found in the manual and reset yourself. The newer the vehicle the more settings that can be affected. Typically a parasitic drain should be less than 50ma as a rule and the battery will last for a month or more. Some systems are much higher with added options and can drain the battery down in weeks. Bottom line I like the battery tender idea and install a plug extending outside from the battery to plug them in.

As mentioned the CTEK is a very good one available local the model MXS 3.8 is a great one (up to 85ah batteries) which will do desulphation also which can extend the life of your battery even if you are not going away. If using regularly can tell you the battery is failing before actual failure as the new batteries can fail without warning.

Always disconnect the negative post (grounded one) of the battery first for safety. When using your tool if it hits the frame or some part then no problem but if on the positive first this can be a disastrous short circuit. When installing reverse the process and install the positive fist. This is true unless you have an old positive ground vehicle which then is reversed procedure but always disconnect the grounded one first..

Older vehicles and some new ones removing the battery is not a problem, however its always a good idea to recharge it first before reinstalling. Often then its just as easy to keep it charged in the vehicle. periodic starting is not bad for long times but it needs to run for a while to get up to temperature and may not charge the battery. Always disconnect the charger before starting.

Using a  battery saver or backup power supply is not recommended as some do not supply enough voltage and or current and can cause damage unless you know your vehicle and the electrical system or one designed for your vehicle.

Another thing to consider is gas stabilizer. In Thailand I have seen gasoline go to varnish within 1 month storage. Its easy to tell as it smells like varnish and will not start then it needs to be drained and sometimes the system cleaned out. To prevent this use gasoline stabilizer which is available local from Amsoil. Even then some of the fuel may varnish or gum up in the lines etc but after short running it should clean itself.

I have a couple of 2W solar panels. One is kept connected to my ride on mower. The other is connected to my car when I head for Thailand for a month.