I have the 3-phase socket and the voltage tester shown below but I don't not know how to test the voltage on the socket, ie into which holes to put the black and read test prongs. I hoped to find guidance on the web, but no luck.

 

  

 

 

To make explaining it easier, I have numbered the holes in the socket in the image below.

 

Looks like one of these.  Does the pin out diagram help?

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Type_2_connector

 

The diagram linked to by @treetopsshould be the starting point.

 

One probe in 4 (should be earth) other in each of the other big terminals. Terminal that reads about OV is neutral, the others will be the phases reading about 220V.

 

If it has a car charging box on the other end it may not actually have power until it's plugged into an EV.

Thank you both.

 

On 4/17/2021 at 12:48 AM, Crossy said:

If it has a car charging box on the other end it may not actually have power until it's plugged into an EV.

 

 

This solves the puzzle of why I get no reading, respectively only a few mV.

 

My problem is that my EV, a Tesla Model 3, could no longer be charged from the charging box after a recent software upgrade on the car although the wall box does have current (the control lamp lights up) and I have tried to figure out whether the socket on the wall box cable or the car's charge port is at fault. Various attempts by the Tesla service technicians to get it sorted out failed and thus I began to experiment on my own and found that after a hard reset, ie disconnecting and reconnecting the 12 V starter battery, charging from the wall box works again (the control lamp on the box blinks) but only for one charge cycle. Repeating the hard reset gives the same result every time. 

 

Charging the car with a cable from a wall socket that is wired directly to the main electrical panel, the fuse box, works correctly every time. 

 

One more observation: another Tesla car can be charged from my wall box repeatedly without any problem.

 

Oh well, it's back to the service centre, then. 

Does the car that works have the same software version as yours?

 

Is it possible to roll-back the vehicle software version?

 

Try contacting Elon Musk on Twitter (but don't mention Thailand or submarines).

 

Do you hear the clicking sound of the adapter locking in on the car?  What color is the logo at the charge port?  Does removing and repositioning the connector impact anything?

 

Do you have a solid ground for the system?

 

You are likely to have better luck on Tesla Motors Club forums than here though.