Lawn Care - Help Needed

[Oxx]

4 minutes ago, Speedhump said:

 

Let's put this to bed, OK? You're just being ridiculous now. 

You are aware that the picture is of a rice field, not a lawn? And "herbicide" is misspelt.

 

[Speedhump]

9 hours ago, Oxx said:

You are aware that the picture is of a rice field, not a lawn? And "herbicide" is misspelt.

 

I'm starting to believe I'm on an alien planet... 

 

"Almix 20 WP SELECTIVE HERBICIDE (50g)... Thit product is intended for us on residential lawns, commercial lawns, golf courses, sports fields, parks, ..."

 

But the craziest thing is your refusal to accept that I use it on my lawn. Absolutely insane. 

 

Anyway, I'm done with you now. 

 

[drtreelove]

On 8/3/2021 at 9:31 AM, tonray said:

First off....I'll try to convince you to get rid of the grass and go with a lower maintenance/better for the environment solution..(btw...I am planning the same...grass and shrubs out, pavers and stones in...with container grown drought resistant plants for greenery and color).

 

If you insist on having a lawn....first step you need to assess is soil PH and adjust that. Normally you would apply lime to the lawn once or twice a year to keep that PH in the optimum level for grass, which is around 6-7. When the lawn gets too acidic...it limits availability of nutrients and allows weeds which are much more opportunistic to thrive.

 

Second step after you've adjusted PH is to get a good conbination fertilizer/selective weed killer and apply per manufacturer's directions. Most larger garden centers can provide...or even ask around at HomePro/ThaiWatsadu. 

 

But the key is creating and maintaining the proper growing environment first before you start anything else.

I agree with the objective of finding alternatives to turf.  But regarding the advice to focus on soil pH and liming is misguided and obsolete, in my opinion. Calcium is a vital plant nutrient, but lime is not always appropriate or needed. Soil pH will self-adjust to optimum balance with good soil fertility and water management. 

 

Modern soil management science and practices are based on soil testing and not guess work.  The focus is on nutrient management, mineral balancing and promoting good condtions for the all-important soil biology to thrive. Micro-organisms do most of the work in maintaining plant health, resistance to pests and diseases, and also weed control if you let them.  The vicious cycle of chemical dependency is a losing battle. With high NPK chemical fertilizers and herbicides, you will kill off the soil biology and the lawn will degrade in time. Go with organic lawn care. 

Organic Lawn Care 101 - Maintaining a Chemical-Free Lawn | Planet Natural

 

The broad-leaf weed control products that are used in turf can be risky for your other plantings, (as well as for people and pets).  The some of the active ingredients and surfactants in common weed control products can be taken up by tree and shrub roots, or volatilize into a gaseous drift and damage or kill nearby plantings of sensitive species, especially in high ambient temperature (over 27C, 80F).  As a consulting arborist I have seen this time and again, mysterious leaf patterns of discoloration, shriveling, decline and die-back. I have confirmed diagnosis with plant pathology and toxicity lab reports. 

 

During a transition period, as you build soil health with organic matter and complete organic fertilizer, you can spot spray weeds as well as mechanical removal.  

 

A Healthy Lawn Is A Weed-Free Lawn

The key to maintaining a weed-free lawn without relying heavily on chemical herbicide is two-fold: A) Keep your lawn as healthy as possible, so weeds don’t stand a chance, and B) reduce the number of herbicides to the barest necessity.

How To Get Organic Lawn Care And Zap Weeds At The Same Time (pureprairieorganics.com)

[drtreelove]

On 8/3/2021 at 9:31 AM, tonray said:

First off....I'll try to convince you to get rid of the grass and go with a lower maintenance/better for the environment solution..(btw...I am planning the same...grass and shrubs out, pavers and stones in...with container grown drought resistant plants for greenery and color).

 

If you insist on having a lawn....first step you need to assess is soil PH and adjust that. Normally you would apply lime to the lawn once or twice a year to keep that PH in the optimum level for grass, which is around 6-7. When the lawn gets too acidic...it limits availability of nutrients and allows weeds which are much more opportunistic to thrive.

 

Second step after you've adjusted PH is to get a good conbination fertilizer/selective weed killer and apply per manufacturer's directions. Most larger garden centers can provide...or even ask around at HomePro/ThaiWatsadu. 

 

But the key is creating and maintaining the proper growing environment first before you start anything else.

I agree with the objective of finding alternatives to turf.  But regarding the advice to focus on soil pH and liming is misguided and obsolete, in my opinion. Calcium is a vital plant nutrient, but lime is not always appropriate or needed. Soil pH will self-adjust to optimum balance with good soil fertility and water management. 

 

Modern soil management science and practices are based on soil testing and not guess work.  The focus is on nutrient management, mineral balancing and promoting good condtions for the all-important soil biology to thrive. Micro-organisms do most of the work in maintaining plant health, resistance to pests and diseases, and also weed control if you let them.  The vicious cycle of chemical dependency is a losing battle. With high NPK chemical fertilizers and herbicides, you will kill off the soil biology and the lawn will degrade in time. Go with organic lawn care. 

Organic Lawn Care 101 - Maintaining a Chemical-Free Lawn | Planet Natural

 

The broad-leaf weed control products that are used in turf can be risky for your other plantings, (as well as for people and pets).  The some of the active ingredients and surfactants in common weed control products can be taken up by tree and shrub roots, or volatilize into a gaseous drift and damage or kill nearby plantings of sensitive species, especially in high ambient temperature (over 27C, 80F).  As a consulting arborist I have seen this time and again, mysterious leaf patterns of discoloration, shriveling, decline and die-back. I have confirmed diagnosis with plant pathology and toxicity lab reports. 

 

During a transition period, as you build soil health with organic matter and complete organic fertilizer, you can spot spray weeds as well as mechanical removal.  

 

A Healthy Lawn Is A Weed-Free Lawn

The key to maintaining a weed-free lawn without relying heavily on chemical herbicide is two-fold: A) Keep your lawn as healthy as possible, so weeds don’t stand a chance, and B) reduce the number of herbicides to the barest necessity.

How To Get Organic Lawn Care And Zap Weeds At The Same Time (pureprairieorganics.com)

[drtreelove]

On 8/3/2021 at 9:31 AM, tonray said:

First off....I'll try to convince you to get rid of the grass and go with a lower maintenance/better for the environment solution..(btw...I am planning the same...grass and shrubs out, pavers and stones in...with container grown drought resistant plants for greenery and color).

 

If you insist on having a lawn....first step you need to assess is soil PH and adjust that. Normally you would apply lime to the lawn once or twice a year to keep that PH in the optimum level for grass, which is around 6-7. When the lawn gets too acidic...it limits availability of nutrients and allows weeds which are much more opportunistic to thrive.

 

Second step after you've adjusted PH is to get a good conbination fertilizer/selective weed killer and apply per manufacturer's directions. Most larger garden centers can provide...or even ask around at HomePro/ThaiWatsadu. 

 

But the key is creating and maintaining the proper growing environment first before you start anything else.

I agree with the objective of finding alternatives to turf.  But regarding the advice to focus on soil pH and liming is misguided and obsolete, in my opinion. Calcium is a vital plant nutrient, but lime is not always appropriate or needed. Soil pH will self-adjust to optimum balance with good soil fertility and water management. 

 

Modern soil management science and practices are based on soil testing and not guess work.  The focus is on nutrient management, mineral balancing and promoting good condtions for the all-important soil biology to thrive. Micro-organisms do most of the work in maintaining plant health, resistance to pests and diseases, and also weed control if you let them.  The vicious cycle of chemical dependency is a losing battle. With high NPK chemical fertilizers and herbicides, you will kill off the soil biology and the lawn will degrade in time. Go with organic lawn care. 

Organic Lawn Care 101 - Maintaining a Chemical-Free Lawn | Planet Natural

 

The broad-leaf weed control products that are used in turf can be risky for your other plantings, (as well as for people and pets).  The some of the active ingredients and surfactants in common weed control products can be taken up by tree and shrub roots, or volatilize into a gaseous drift and damage or kill nearby plantings of sensitive species, especially in high ambient temperature (over 27C, 80F).  As a consulting arborist I have seen this time and again, mysterious leaf patterns of discoloration, shriveling, decline and die-back. I have confirmed diagnosis with plant pathology and toxicity lab reports. 

 

During a transition period, as you build soil health with organic matter and complete organic fertilizer, you can spot spray weeds as well as mechanical removal.  

 

A Healthy Lawn Is A Weed-Free Lawn

The key to maintaining a weed-free lawn without relying heavily on chemical herbicide is two-fold: A) Keep your lawn as healthy as possible, so weeds don’t stand a chance, and B) reduce the number of herbicides to the barest necessity.

How To Get Organic Lawn Care And Zap Weeds At The Same Time (pureprairieorganics.com)

[tonray]

Just now, drtreelove said:

I agree with the objective of finding alternatives to turf.  But regarding the advice to focus on soil pH and liming is misguided and obsolete, in my opinion. Calcium is a vital plant nutrient, but lime is not always appropriate or needed. Soil pH will self-adjust to optimum balance with good soil fertility and water management. 

 

Modern soil management science and practices are based on soil testing and not guess work.  The focus is on nutrient management, mineral balancing and promoting good condtions for the all-important soil biology to thrive. Micro-organisms do most of the work in maintaining plant health, resistance to pests and diseases, and also weed control if you let them.  The vicious cycle of chemical dependency is a losing battle. With high NPK chemical fertilizers and herbicides, you will kill off the soil biology and the lawn will degrade in time. Go with organic lawn care. 

Organic Lawn Care 101 - Maintaining a Chemical-Free Lawn | Planet Natural

 

The broad-leaf weed control products that are used in turf can be risky for your other plantings, (as well as for people and pets).  The some of the active ingredients and surfactants in common weed control products can be taken up by tree and shrub roots, or volatilize into a gaseous drift and damage or kill nearby plantings of sensitive species, especially in high ambient temperature (over 27C, 80F).  As a consulting arborist I have seen this time and again, mysterious leaf patterns of discoloration, shriveling, decline and die-back. I have confirmed diagnosis with plant pathology and toxicity lab reports. 

 

During a transition period, as you build soil health with organic matter and complete organic fertilizer, you can spot spray weeds as well as mechanical removal.  

 

A Healthy Lawn Is A Weed-Free Lawn

The key to maintaining a weed-free lawn without relying heavily on chemical herbicide is two-fold: A) Keep your lawn as healthy as possible, so weeds don’t stand a chance, and B) reduce the number of herbicides to the barest necessity.

How To Get Organic Lawn Care And Zap Weeds At The Same Time (pureprairieorganics.com)

Ok...I heard you the first two times !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[drtreelove]

On 8/3/2021 at 9:31 AM, tonray said:

First off....I'll try to convince you to get rid of the grass and go with a lower maintenance/better for the environment solution..(btw...I am planning the same...grass and shrubs out, pavers and stones in...with container grown drought resistant plants for greenery and color).

 

If you insist on having a lawn....first step you need to assess is soil PH and adjust that. Normally you would apply lime to the lawn once or twice a year to keep that PH in the optimum level for grass, which is around 6-7. When the lawn gets too acidic...it limits availability of nutrients and allows weeds which are much more opportunistic to thrive.

 

Second step after you've adjusted PH is to get a good conbination fertilizer/selective weed killer and apply per manufacturer's directions. Most larger garden centers can provide...or even ask around at HomePro/ThaiWatsadu. 

 

But the key is creating and maintaining the proper growing environment first before you start anything else.

I agree with the objective of finding alternatives to turf.  But regarding the advice to focus on soil pH and liming is misguided and obsolete, in my opinion. Calcium is a vital plant nutrient, but lime is not always appropriate or needed. Soil pH will self-adjust to optimum balance with good soil fertility and water management. 

 

Modern soil management science and practices are based on soil testing and not guess work.  The focus is on nutrient management, mineral balancing and promoting good condtions for the all-important soil biology to thrive. Micro-organisms do most of the work in maintaining plant health, resistance to pests and diseases, and also weed control if you let them.  The vicious cycle of chemical dependency is a losing battle. With high NPK chemical fertilizers and herbicides, you will kill off the soil biology and the lawn will degrade in time. Go with organic lawn care. 

Organic Lawn Care 101 - Maintaining a Chemical-Free Lawn | Planet Natural

 

The broad-leaf weed control products that are used in turf can be risky for your other plantings, (as well as for people and pets).  The some of the active ingredients and surfactants in common weed control products can be taken up by tree and shrub roots, or volatilize into a gaseous drift and damage or kill nearby plantings of sensitive species, especially in high ambient temperature (over 27C, 80F).  As a consulting arborist I have seen this time and again, mysterious leaf patterns of discoloration, shriveling, decline and die-back. I have confirmed diagnosis with plant pathology and toxicity lab reports. 

 

During a transition period, as you build soil health with organic matter and complete organic fertilizer, you can spot spray weeds as well as mechanical removal.  

 

A Healthy Lawn Is A Weed-Free Lawn

The key to maintaining a weed-free lawn without relying heavily on chemical herbicide is two-fold: A) Keep your lawn as healthy as possible, so weeds don’t stand a chance, and B) reduce the number of herbicides to the barest necessity.

How To Get Organic Lawn Care And Zap Weeds At The Same Time (pureprairieorganics.com)

[drtreelove]

1 minute ago, tonray said:

Ok...I heard you the first two times !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, sending malfunction. 

[digger70]

22 hours ago, KarenBravo said:

In many cases, grass IS the weed.

I Googled the chemical and it will kill grass.

Well then google for the one you want .there's plenty there ????

[Speedhump]

On 8/6/2021 at 11:05 AM, KarenBravo said:

It's the same as the other stuff. Meant for rice paddy and it will kill grass.

I've explained several times that the ALMIX product I first mentioned I have been using on my grass for years. I really don't know what else to say? Read my other posts please. 

[riclag]

On 8/3/2021 at 9:34 AM, mahjongguy said:

Give up on having golf course fescue. Sod the whole area with "Malaysia grass".

Spot on !

I use this in the wet/shaded areas  ! It's the best,its very hearty , but its so ugly and at the same time, its so green !

The other areas I use the common alternative ,( I don't no the name of the sod but its common,here.) Its the kind of grass if you go away for a week and come back ,you wish you didn't ! It's not hearty/strong, at all.

 

I use a lot of water on the common grass sod ! Every other day and some times everyday !

The Malaysia doesn't need as much 2x a week but its so ugly !