Upgrade Main breaker box

[bearded_bluto]

On my list of things to do in the future has arrived. Been dealing with termites. Currently ripping off drywall and studs, in the spot where the underground power cable comes into the house. I currently have just a square D box, nothing fancy like earth fault detection (rccb?).

I have single phase 30A meter connection. I would like to change the breakers to rccb type (30ma) a whole house surge protection, ayne 2 transfer switches or one 3 way (one for solar and one for diesel genset andthen the mains) and perhaps a main cutoff switch. 

 

Is this overkill? If its not broke leave it alone is on my mind. Is the surge protection worth it? My cheapest route would just be to change the breakers to rccb type and forget the rest. There is so much lighting during the rainy season and I feel like I am way overdue for induction or a powerline strike nearby.

[Crossy]

Good call on using RCBOs.

 

As a minimum I would install a separate 2-pole isolator on the incoming supply, before it goes to your box. This will allow you to completely isolate from the grid and work on your kit with no chance of live wires.

 

Definitely decent surge protection (60kA or more).

 

Ensure you have a proper ground and MEN connection.

 

You might want to get an over-size DIN rail box so you can add transfer switches etc. as and when required. Dependent upon exactly how you install your solar you may not actually need one.

 

This PEA document is worth a peruse Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf

 

The relevant diagram with my translations.

 

[OneMoreFarang]

Make sure you understand the difference between RCCB and RCBO.

 

And, IMHO, use a BIG box to put all those RCCBs, RCBOs, MCBs inside. Many small breaker boxes are so overfilled with cables that it is difficult to see what is happening and even worse to actually work on those things.

[bearded_bluto]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll update in a couple weeks with what I did.

[bearded_bluto]

On 12/17/2024 at 6:18 AM, Crossy said:

Good call on using RCBOs.

 

As a minimum I would install a separate 2-pole isolator on the incoming supply, before it goes to your box. This will allow you to completely isolate from the grid and work on your kit with no chance of live wires.

 

Definitely decent surge protection (60kA or more).

 

Ensure you have a proper ground and MEN connection.

 

You might want to get an over-size DIN rail box so you can add transfer switches etc. as and when required. Dependent upon exactly how you install your solar you may not actually need one.

 

This PEA document is worth a peruse Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf

 

The relevant diagram with my translations.

 

What happens if there is a fault with the incoming neutral, the ground at some pole outside?, I feel like in that situation your ground  in your home becomes the new village ground/neutral. I'm certainly no expert but that is my first impression. Seems complicated to me. PEA reversed my neutral and Live at the meter a few years back, by accident I suppose, but that would really complicate the above diagram i think.

[GammaGlobulin]

On 12/15/2024 at 1:24 AM, bearded_bluto said:

Currently ripping off drywall and studs

 

Sorry.

I thought you said....

Ripping off studs.

 

Anyway, I, too, must replace my breaker box.

I will chose one of the highest quality.

 

One from America.

 

Square D.

 

Schneider...all the way!

 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

6 hours ago, GammaGlobulin said:

Anyway, I, too, must replace my breaker box.

I will chose one of the highest quality.

 

One from America.

 

Square D.

 

Schneider...all the way!

Those statements are mutually incompatible. 
Schneider Is a French origin company and uses DIN rail

Square D is a USA company that mostly uses their own non DIN rail components 

A box from the USA is not automatically one of the highest quality.

 

Also using a single box may not be the best choice depending on the number of circuits you have.

[GammaGlobulin]

4 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Those statements are mutually incompatible. 
Schneider Is a French origin company and uses DIN rail

Square D is a USA company that mostly uses their own non DIN rail components 

A box from the USA is not automatically one of the highest quality.

 

Also using a single box may not be the best choice depending on the number of circuits you have.

 

Last time I purchased a product with a Square D  symbol on it, Square D was a USA company.

In 1991, Square D became French.

In future, I will not use Square D.

Thank you.

 

Also, I will stop using APC back-up.

APC is owned by that French company.

No more APC for me.

Thank you, once again.

 

APC is French?

 

 

 

 

[Crossy]

13 hours ago, bearded_bluto said:

What happens if there is a fault with the incoming neutral, the ground at some pole outside?, I feel like in that situation your ground  in your home becomes the new village ground/neutral. I'm certainly no expert but that is my first impression. Seems complicated to me. PEA reversed my neutral and Live at the meter a few years back, by accident I suppose, but that would really complicate the above diagram i think.

 

Have a read of this page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system 

 

Thailand is TNC-S with MEN (Multiple Earthed Neutral) which is essentially the same as Aus who have one of the safest systems in the known universe, the UK isn't far behind (many Brits would argue here!) although the UK version of MEN is called PME (Protective Multiple Earthing).

 

Both MEN and PME are part of the mitigation of an open neutral, also the neutral is the top wire on the poles so it's likely to be the last wire to be damaged.

 

Reversed L&N at the meter does happen, we had one member who noticed his kitchen floor was getting warm where the earth rod was located. Turned out to be a swapped L&N. 

 

Thailand has no regulation that would preclude you using TT (but it wouldn't pass a PEA or MEA inspection for a permanent supply), so if you don't like the look of the N-E link you can eliminate it at the cost of reduced overall safety. Going TT would make RCD/RCBO mandatory for protection from shock in the event of a L to appliance metalwork fault.