My (tourist) Visa Run Experience To Laos

[marginline]

Getting to Laos:

My partner and I departed Mo Chit using Chantour's VIP bus service (cost ฿450 each) approximately 20-minutes late from their scheduled time of 9:00pm and armed with banana cakes, chocolate biscuits and water (all kindly provided for free by Chantour) settled down to a ‘nice’ 8-hour trip to Nong Khai.

At 5:20am we were put off the bus (about half-a-dozen kilometers from Nong Khai Bus Station but only a couple of kilometers from the Friendship Bridge), where we were met by four tuk-tuk drivers vying, if not arguing a little amongst themselves for our business. The tuk-tuk we got into (cost ฿60) took us not to the Friendship Bridge; as it was closed, but to a place called Nongkhai Miracle Travel (about 1 kilometer from the Friendship Bridge and directly opposite Nong Khai Railway Station). Here they completed our Arrival/Departure cards for Laos immigration and – had I not already prepared my Visa Application Form for the Thai Embassy, would have completed this for me too. My big mistake here though, besides of course telling the tuk tuk driver not to stop but to proceed to the Friendship Bridge – cost us a few hundred baht (cost ฿1,800 for me, cost ฿50 for my partner); however the lesson learned here was; next time I do this visa run, I’ll ensure that I have US$35 with me in cash (which is the cost of obtaining a Laos Visa) and go straight to the Friendship Bridge.

Arriving at the Friendship Bridge we stamped-out of Thailand, boarded the bus that takes you across the Mekong (cost ฿10 each) and made our way to Laos immigration. There I was obliged to complete another form not provided by Nongkhai Miracle Travel (hence the reason why it’s perhaps best to avoid any so-called assistance by such Thai operators – preying at the border) before handing over my Arrival/Departure card, my passport and of course the US$35!

Altogether the entire process took us about 15-minutes to clear Laos immigration, where we opted to take a minivan (cost ฿150 each) instead of the regular bus service (cost ฿55 each) for the half-hour drive into Vientiane.

The minivan took us directly to the hotel we’d already pre-booked, that being the Mali Namphu Guest House (cost ฿550 per night ); which was a very clean, centrally located place – a pleasant 300 meters stroll from the scenic Mekong River. Here we stayed for 3-days, 2-nights altogether but budget minded people need only stay the one night when dropping-off/collecting passports; as appropriate of course.

Getting the (Tourist) Visa:

My partner and I arrived at the Royal Thai Embassy about half-an-hour after it had opened to be met by a slow moving 50-meter line, 40-meters of which was open to the elements. After about half-an-hour of waiting in drizzle that had steadily become a lot stronger – things started to become a little chaotic. There were people arriving who didn’t have the Visa Application Form – cutting to the very front of the line, where they would complete the form at the visa acceptance desk, thereby blocking those standing behind from submitting their paperwork. After about another half-hour of this my partner went to the head of the line and ‘tore a strip off' the two accepting officers (who FWIW were Laos citizens and not Thai) who immediately set-up a meeting with one of the Embassy's First Secretaries. At that meeting the First Secretary apologized for the apparent chaos but explained that as it was a day after a Laos public holiday, that was probably the reason why there were more people in line than usual. He also explained that as the Thai Government leases the Embassy compound in Vientiane, that was the reason they are unable to extend their existing structure - to protect those waiting outside from the elements.

Dirty Passport:

Handing the First Secretary my passport and Visa Application Form, my partner was told that my case was typical of many farang who come to Thailand; “they come on holiday then want to stay forever”. Mine was considered to be a “dirty passport” because of the number of stamps I’d received but my partner quickly combated the First Secretary’s comment by reminding him that it was in fact a sign of my respect of Thai immigration law that I had always adhered to the law; after all “what other choice does someone in his (my) position have?” my partner asked.

When advising the First Secretary too that I in fact wanted a multiple entry tourist visa, he queried why provisions to apply for a visa hadn’t been made during a proposed trip later in September – to which my partner countered that he was too busy to stay longer than we already were. The First Secretary’s response to that was that I could have “10 entries” if I needed them and that many people do not get multiple entries simply because they “do not ask” for them.

Back in line then, about an 45-minutes later – my partner began to disseminate what had transpired to me and a couple of other people who were waiting – and on the strength of this a Japanese man asked for but was denied a multiple-entry tourist visa; however, an American lady was permitted a multiple-entry tourist visa (without any supporting paperwork – such as copy of flight itinerary).

After my Visa Application Form was submitted there was yet another 20 to 30-minute wait to pay for it, and then it was off to the Mali Namphu Guest House for a shower and a change into dry clothes.

The following day, the collection process couldn't have been more different. On arrival my partner and I were probably in line for less than 10-minutes – after which time, we started the long trek home.

Cost of Trip:

Chantour VIP bus (Mo Chit to Nong Khai) - ฿-,450

Tuk-Tuk to Friendship Bridge ------------ ฿-,-60

*Nongkhai Miracle Travel’s fees --------- ฿1,800

Crossing Friendship Bridge -------------- ฿-,-10

Friendship Bridge to Vientiane ---------- ฿-,150

Hotel Accommodation --------------------- ฿-,550 per night

Return Transportation Hotel to Embassy -- ฿-,100

Tourist Visa Fees (2x entry) ------------ ฿2,000

Embassy to Vientiane Bus Station -------- ฿-,100

Crossing Friendship Bridge -------------- ฿-,-10

Vientiane to Nong Khai Bus Station ------ ฿-,-55

Chantour VIP bus (Nong Khai to Mo Chit) - ฿-,450

GRAND TOTAL ----------------------------- ฿5,735

Lessons Learned:

1. Take US Dollars with you ($35 to be exact to pay for your Laos Visa) and avoid places such as Nongkhai Miracle Travel – thereby saving an additional ฿200 to ฿500 off the 'Grand Total' figure.
   
2. Don’t buy the local currency, the Laos Kip (pronounced ‘gip’) because Thai baht does very nicely there and it will help to keep you grounded on just how much you're actually spending.
   
3. If funds run low, don't worry – in Vientiane there are ATMs; but you may need to walk several blocks to find one.
   
4. The Laos people are very hospitable and extremely friendly.
   
5. The food is great and as for Beerlao; what a beer!
   

In conclusion:

My partner and I really enjoyed our little sojourn to Laos; for both of us it was our very first time in Vientiane and for me it’s comforting to know that whenever Thailand does decide to ban foreigners altogether, there’s a quiet little haven just North of the Mekong waiting for me. Saying that I know some people would be bored to tears living somewhere as quiet as Vientiane but I found Laos to be charming, safe and full of surprises.

“Thank you” then Laos for your hospitality, I; we shall look forward to visiting you again – soon!

[jasreeve17]

Good write up. Having done the same trek a few times (although I prefer the overnight sleeper train for about the same cost), I can agree with your comments.

I have found the Thais working in the Vietienne embassy to be unpleasant at times.

Laos is great for a couple of days. A nice long weekend away from Bangkok.

[marginline]

I have found the Thais working in the Vietienne embassy to be unpleasant at times.

Thanks for your response jasreeve17. The irony about what you say - which contradicts what I wrote about the friendliness of Laos people - is that all the people you'll probably come across at the Royal Thai Embassy (The Visa Acceptance Clerks and Cashiers), are all Laos! The First Secretary explained to my partner that this apparent unpleasantness was probably due to the fact that most of their Laos employees are quite shy and inexperienced at handling so many people.

[technocracy]

Lessons Learned:

1. Take US Dollars with you ($35 to be exact to pay for your Laos Visa) and avoid places such as Nongkhai Miracle Travel – thereby saving an additional ฿200 to ฿500 off the 'Grand Total' figure.
   I have never understood people who enlist help of these 'agencies' getting a visa into Laos is as simple as just filling out the a simple form, supplying a picture and $35 (as you say $ is very important if you don't want be ripped off). On that note sounds like you were conned extra since it's normally 1500baht if paying by baht.
   
2. Don’t buy the local currency, the Laos Kip (pronounced ‘gip’) because Thai baht does very nicely there and it will help to keep you grounded on just how much you're actually spending.
   Yes you can pay for pretty much everything in baht however you are losing money since it's always rounded up and you could take advantage of the strong baht to buy weaker kip at the bank and not lose money to vendors exchange rates.
   
3. If funds run low, don't worry – in Vientiane there are ATMs; but you may need to walk several blocks to find one.
   Depends on which way you walk! They are popping up all over the place now which is nice for vistors - never use them myself.
   
4. The Laos people are very hospitable and extremely friendly.
   Yep
   
5. The food is great and as for Beerlao; what a beer!
   Sure is! Available in Bangkok as well (Gullivers amongst others) although on small bottle and obviously more expensive than the Thai brews - also it doesn't have the tigers head on it something which i've yet to figure out!
   

In conclusion:

My partner and I really enjoyed our little sojourn to Laos; for both of us it was our very first time in Vientiane and for me it’s comforting to know that whenever Thailand does decide to ban foreigners altogether, there’s a quiet little haven just North of the Mekong waiting for me. Saying that I know some people would be bored to tears living somewhere as quiet as Vientiane but I found Laos to be charming, safe and full of surprises.

“Thank you” then Laos for your hospitality, I; we shall look forward to visiting you again – soon!

It really is good here . . . even if I say it myself! Like you say some (many) people wouldn't cope with the quietness of the place - but for me - I am perfectly happy the way it is!

Edited August 19, 2007 by technocracy

[OneeyedJohn]

You've written a good report on Vientiane which totally coincides with my recent trip (Aug 01 ).

I was also taken to Miracle and was annoyed at myself for allowing it to happen, but I got outta there double quick when I realised what was going on...experience.

My first trip there with my wife I stayed in the Lang Xao ( spelling ) hotel for 25$us and it was no better than the 380 Baht Guesthouse this time.

Depends whether you are on your own or not.

[sjaak327]

Nice report. I agree with Technocracy, you do loose money if you are using Baht. I would pay my hotel using Baht, but everything else using Kip. Right across from your guesthouse is a bank were you can exchange baht into Kip. Last time I was there, I got 270.000 kip to 1000 baht (this was in february 2007).

Some great food options are down at the river, some great Laap Mo, and Som tam the way it's supposed to be with Padek.

I heared that Beer Lao dark is now available in Bangkok, (Big Mango) that's great news, as this is really a quality beer. I actually prefer Bia Sot (beer Lao from draught) as opposed to the bottled version.

One thing to note is that you could go via Udon Thani with either Nok Air or Air Asia, this will only add about 1000 baht (airplane) and 150 baht (bus to friendship bridge) but of course saves time.

[technocracy]

Nice report. I agree with Technocracy, you do loose money if you are using Baht. I would pay my hotel using Baht, but everything else using Kip. Right across from your guesthouse is a bank were you can exchange baht into Kip. Last time I was there, I got 270.000 kip to 1000 baht (this was in february 2007).

Some great food options are down at the river, some great Laap Mo, and Som tam the way it's supposed to be with Padek.

I heared that Beer Lao dark is now available in Bangkok, (Big Mango) that's great news, as this is really a quality beer. I actually prefer Bia Sot (beer Lao from draught) as opposed to the bottled version.

One thing to note is that you could go via Udon Thani with either Nok Air or Air Asia, this will only add about 1000 baht (airplane) and 150 baht (bus to friendship bridge) but of course saves time.

You're currently getting 278,500kip to a 1000baht - which is nice, it was 285 the previous week.

I think the Beer Lao world domination will really kick off next year when the new factory is finished in Champasak. As the current factory struggles to provided sufficient for the local market! I've just consumed a big bottle with my dinner and a crate was delivery to the house earlier - you might have McDonalds and Pizzahut who deliver in Thailand but we have Beer Lao delivered!!

The Bia Sot in Kop Jai Deu is v.good (and my normal tipple in there) however the Tex Mex place on the Mekong road the last time I had some it was bloody foul! I am sure it couldn't of been Beer Lao draught tasted more like a homebrew!!! Mind you in general that Tex Mex place is dire.

As for dam mak hu (som tam to you thai speakers ) your in the birth place of it - although I far prefer dam mak daeng (cucumber) as I can't stand the green papaya. I like the sauce but green papaya is foul (imo). The wife eats it pretty much every day and being pregnant shes eating more sour tasting stuff than ever!

Anyway I digress . . .

[marginline]

You're currently getting 278,500kip to a 1000baht - which is nice, it was 285 the previous week.

FWIW the money exchange at the Laos border coming through was quoting ₭291 per ฿1, whilst the banks were giving ₭282 and the shops ₭285 respectively.

[cali4995]

Marginline, just to confirm. Did you in fact receive a multi-entry tourist visa? I apologize,

I got distracted with the entire "dirty passport classification theory" and how <deleted>$#@ng

ironic it is Thais can live and work abroad for years and be treated with respect and

courtesy as equals but here you're undesireable at 30+ days and supposedly educated

consular officials can't rise above their snide comments to that effect.

Yes, Vientiane is looking more and more attractive all the time. Maybe the Lao are able

to discern who the desireable visitors are because the Thais aren't even trying.

Edited August 19, 2007 by cali4995

[marginline]

You’re absolutely right in what you say cali; it was a great piece of insight (the “Dirty Passport” comment) I would never have realized that’s how Thai immigration labels me (and the tens of thousands of other farang in my position) had my partner not accompanied me. So now I’m beginning to understand just why my passport was unceremoniously tossed back in my face one time at Aranyaprathet!

Okay then to answer your question, “Yes”; I received a multiple-entry tourist visa and as it happens so too did an American lady standing in line with us who simply chanced her arm at the last moment.

As I wrote in my report...the First Secretary told my partner that the Thai Embassy was more than happy and prepared to issue me “10 entries” (slight overkill), but I think it was more a case that the Thai official felt embarrassed by being called to task and wrong-footed by a fellow Thai national (my partner). FWIW had I gone to Vientiane alone, I wouldn’t have dared complain as I would surely have been reminded that being neither Thai nor Lao – I was not entitled to use the Consular Section there period!

[Jimjim]

and for me it’s comforting to know that whenever Thailand does decide to ban foreigners altogether,

Huh? Inform me when this happens and I'll start lacing up the skates for a nice hockey game in hel_l. Join me, won't you?

[Krub]

You’re absolutely right in what you say cali; it was a great piece of insight (the “Dirty Passport” comment) I would never have realized that’s how Thai immigration labels me (and the tens of thousands of other farang in my position) had my partner not accompanied me. So now I’m beginning to understand just why my passport was unceremoniously tossed back in my face one time at Aranyaprathet!

Okay then to answer your question, “Yes”; I received a multiple-entry tourist visa and as it happens so too did an American lady standing in line with us who simply chanced her arm at the last moment.

As I wrote in my report...the First Secretary told my partner that the Thai Embassy was more than happy and prepared to issue me “10 entries” (slight overkill), but I think it was more a case that the Thai official felt embarrassed by being called to task and wrong-footed by a fellow Thai national (my partner). FWIW had I gone to Vientiane alone, I wouldn’t have dared complain as I would surely have been reminded that being neither Thai nor Lao – I was not entitled to use the Consular Section there period!

Hi

You seem to have received a 2 emtries tourist visa. Is it valid for 3 or 6 months ?

[marginline]

Hi

You seem to have received a 2 emtries tourist visa. Is it valid for 3 or 6 months ?

The tourist visa is valid for a 3-month period. FWIW and please correct me if I'm wrong but I think the only places that issue 6-month visas are North America, the EU and the Antipodes.

[Krub]

Hi

You seem to have received a 2 emtries tourist visa. Is it valid for 3 or 6 months ?

The tourist visa is valid for a 3-month period. FWIW and please correct me if I'm wrong but I think the only places that issue 6-month visas are North America, the EU and the Antipodes.

I don't know the reply to your question but as you recieved the visa the day you activate it by going back to Thailand with a 1 month exptension even though the visa is only valid for 3 months, you get nearly 6 months stay with 1 visa run. All legaly !

[rogerdee123]

Good report Marginline.

Having spent some time in and out of the Thai Embassy and various Thai consulate locations in Vientiane I can add the following insight (personal opinion) into Thai/Lao relations ...

The Thai (in Laos) always seem to blame the Lao for as much as they can. The place where you received your visa wasn't the Thai Embassy. As you were told it is indeed a leased building whice they use for the lowly farang and other visa applicants. The Thai Embassy is quite a big compound and could probably easily accommodate visa applicantions although it might disturb the otherwise tranquil and sabaii atmosphere the Thai employees enjoy there. The Thai Embassy in Laos has over the years moved the location for the visa applicants ("consular office" if we stretch the definition) from place to place and this is really due to cost of leasing, i.e. they don't want to spend too much money on this facility (although it's probably what's paying for almost everything else they do in Laos). The number one consular official usually stays at the Embassy where there is a consular office for "more important" business than visa applications. The Thai Embassy actually has a fair amount of property scattered around Vientiane almost all of it better than the place they rent for the visa applications. So the lack of protection from rain that visa applicants have to endure has really nothing to do with restrictions from the lease or whatever.

I've been in Thai Embassies and consulates all over Asia and the one in Laos is the worse I've experienced in terms of attitude of staff.

The above Thai attitude regarding Laos and Lao people also extends of course to the Thai commercial concerns in Vientiane, i.e. the Thai banks etc. If there is ever any problem say transferring money from a Bangkok based bank, the explanation and reason for the problem is always due to some deficiency from the Lao Govt or Lao staff or Lao infrastructure or whatever.

The radio stations in Nong Khai and elsewhere along the border used to regularly crack ethnic type jokes about Laos and about Lao people and these stations broadcast into Laos. A few years ago the Thai Govt had a kind of "sensitivity training" program for media people working in the border areas to try to tone this down. It worked and there are much fewer such slurs and jokes than before but you can still these jokes and comments on the Thai radio and sometimes TV.

I see Thai tourists from Bangkok and Chiang Mai in Nong Khai going back and forth to Vientiane on a daily basis for 2 or 3 days in a row and I ask them why they don't just stay overnight in Vientiane instead of going back and forth everyday and they usually just laugh and look at me like I'm crazy for thinking anyone would stay overnight (!!!) in Laos.

Laos ain't perfect by any means, But it always gets a bad rap from most Thai.

[marginline]

I don't know the reply to your question but as you recieved the visa the day you activate it by going back to Thailand with a 1 month exptension even though the visa is only valid for 3 months, you get nearly 6 months stay with 1 visa run. All legaly !

Exactly right Krub and technically, if I so desired - I wouldn't have to do another Visa Run to Vientiane until sometime next year...in May (60TV + 30EXT + 60TV + 30EXT + 30VE + 30VE + 30VE); although saying that I would have to go to either Aranyaprathet or Ban Laem (Pong Nam Ron) four times during this period. Edited August 20, 2007 by marginline

[technocracy]

Laos ain't perfect by any means, But it always gets a bad rap from most Thai.

You got that 100% right! Unfortunately this is the fact if there is any problems in the Thai Embassy in Laos you can bet your bottom dollar who'll they'll blame . . . Lao.

Many Thai folks in general have a very condecending view of Laos and the people - my wife experiences it regularly when we visit Bangkok. They often comment she looks 'Thai' . . well bugger me what did you think a Lao person would look like!?!? Have 3 eyes and purple skin???

As for Thai banks in Laos - they are all a joke! They all have a branches here Krung Thai, Bangkok Bank, Thai Military etc however NONE of the actually offer decent facilities. None of them have been arsed to setup a SWIFT network separate to there Thai network, none offer services such as internet banking as they do in Thailand etc.

Although this said many Lao workers who are placed in a position of power such as in an embassy do often disappear up there own backsides, the Australian embassy is a perfect example of this!

On the note of the exchange rates you were getting last week it was high at the beginning and has gone back down over the week. However I've never saw 291 on offer - which exchange was this at (I am guess not the one by the side of the visa booth?)?

[marginline]

On the note of the exchange rates you were getting last week it was high at the beginning and has gone back down over the week. However I've never saw 291 on offer - which exchange was this at (I am guess not the one by the side of the visa booth?)?

The ₭291 to ฿1 rate referred to was stuck on a window pane approximately 10-meters behind and to the left of the visa booth as I entered Laos. FWIW after departing the border area, I never did see such a high-rate again.

[cali4995]

Marginline, thanks for the report. Yours is the 1st multi-entry tourist visa issued in a neighboring country that I've heard of since black October 2006. Yeah, I get a little

annoyed because immigration's stance just seems to be make it more unpleasant and

annoying for everybody in the visa process and maybe that will discourage some people be they good, bad or ugly it doesn't seem important. Not a very effective strategy.

[marginline]

You’re welcome cali but I can’t believe that I am the only one being permitted multiple-entry tourist visas. You know – there must be an ‘element of truth’ about what the First Secretary told my partner. I mean people don’t think they’re going to get a multiple-entry visa...so they don’t even bother to ask.

In this case and also in my first proper visa run to Kuala Lumpur last November, all I did was provide proof of pre-existing travel outside LOS during the first 60-day period of arriving back into Thailand and my multiple-entry requests were both granted.

It’s true, I think my partner’s intervention played a big part in Vientiane but IMHO I also believe that with any multiple-entry visa application, the powers that be (at each respective Royal Thai Embassy) who’ll inspect your application will simply employ the ‘duck test’ (if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it's probably a duck) and so long as you have all the accompanying paperwork – you should walk away with a result.

Edited August 20, 2007 by marginline

[lopburi3]

provide proof of pre-existing travel outside LOS during the first 60-day period of arriving back into Thailand and my multiple-entry requests were both granted.

But most of the posters here do not have any such travel plans. They are using tourist visas to live in Thailand long term and thus will not be likely to obtain more than one entry.

[OneeyedJohn]

provide proof of pre-existing travel outside LOS during the first 60-day period of arriving back into Thailand and my multiple-entry requests were both granted.

But most of the posters here do not have any such travel plans. They are using tourist visas to live in Thailand long term and thus will not be likely to obtain more than one entry.

I've gotta take issue with this. How on earth would you know what MOST posters travel plans are ?

Secondly to suggest that tourist visas are being used for long term stay in Thailand is really raising a red flag. Why do that. (rhetorical)

I've stayed here years on long term visas and have no wish to abuse the tourist visa easy as it may be to do.

I think you stated many a time that multi entry tourist visas are available in Penang, for whatever flimsy reason, but not so in Laos , Cambo and KL.

This thread is getting out of order

[marginline]

provide proof of pre-existing travel outside LOS during the first 60-day period of arriving back into Thailand and my multiple-entry requests were both granted.

But most of the posters here do not have any such travel plans. They are using tourist visas to live in Thailand long term and thus will not be likely to obtain more than one entry.

I've gotta take issue with this. How on earth would you know what MOST posters travel plans are ?

Secondly to suggest that tourist visas are being used for long term stay in Thailand is really raising a red flag. Why do that. (rhetorical)

I've stayed here years on long term visas and have no wish to abuse the tourist visa easy as it may be to do.

I think you stated many a time that multi entry tourist visas are available in Penang, for whatever flimsy reason, but not so in Laos , Cambo and KL.

This thread is getting out of order

I don’t know who is first credited with saying “a week is a very long time in politics” but 60-days is a really long time in visaland where, pre-existing travel arrangements – can and do unfortunately either change or get cancelled.

Let me share with you that I certainly don’t abuse the system but I most certainly use the existing mechanism to request what I need.

All I can say is that the key here is satisfying the provisions of the aforementioned ‘duck test’ and having a rhetorical ‘Plan B’ (in this instance having my Thai partner accompany me in order to speak for me), should your ‘Plan A’ fail.