Spark Plugs

[cali4995]

When you've got something of that vintage, as you're discovering, any number of variables

can be causing the driveability issues. Sometimes, really you just have to work down a list

of the most likely possibilities. The ignition part of it is not just the spark plugs but also the

high tension leads and distributor cap and rotor. Old spark plug wires, particularly when

there is moisture in the air can arc around in the engine compartment. The fuel delivery

side of it can of course be affected by water in the fuel but in this instance I suspect it is

some peripheral of the system, carburetor/throttle body, emissions control stuff, or some

type of related air/vacuum leak. And of course the engine has to be relatively mechanically

sound, developing reasonable compression on all cylinders. I hope for your sake it is just

some silly little thing but often with this type of mystery it can take a considerable amount

of time to find the root cause. And only you really know what the thing runs like when normal.

[culicine]

Being an old car, try and find an old, experience mechanic too! Someone who has worked on these kinds of cars for many years. In Australia, I had my mini sorted out by someone who had a lot of experience with these cars - got some head work done and got my engine compression back to 200 psi. I'm not sure how a young mechanic these days would deal with these sorts of problems (though I assume they had some training on carburettored motors).

[wilko]

My dog has 4 legs syndrome - very unlikely to be spark plugs and wonder how you came to that conclusion.

Find an honest garage (what area are you in?) and let them check it out.

I presume its an automatic and guess that the realtionship between drive and tickover is at fault.....does in shake/shudder in neutral?

[samran]

those B-Quik places I can highly recommend. Have kept our 1996 auto in good shape....and we've taken it all the way from Vientienne to KL.

[Beacher]

Memorise all of these, there will be a test next week.

Car รถเก๋ง Rot Gaeng

Clutch คลัช Clut

Brake เบรค Braake

Brake Pad ผ้าเบรค Pah Braake

Brake Disc จานเบรค Jaan Braake

Brake fluid น้ำมันเบรค Nam-an Braake

Brake Light ไฟเบรค Fai Braake

Windscreen กระจกหน้า Gra-Jok Nah

Rear Windscreen กระจกหลัง Gra-Jok Lang

Engine Oil น้ำมันเครื่อง Nam-an Krueng

Gearbox Oil น้ำมันเกียร์ Nam-an Gear

Power Steering Oil น้ำมันพาวเวอร์ Nam-an Power

Radiator หม้อน้ำ Mor-Naam

Radiator Fluid น้ำในหม้อน้ำ Naan Nai Mor Naam

Engine เครื่องยนต์ Krueng Yon

Steering Wheel พวงมาลัย Phum-a-Lai

Boot/Truck ท้ายรถ Tai Rot

Air Filter ฟองอากาศ Fong Aggart

Side View Mirrors กระจกข้าง Gra-Jok Kaang

Rear View Mirror กระจกมองหลัง Gra-Jok Mong Lang

Electric Windows กระจกไฟฟ้า Gra-Jok Fai Fah

Fuel Injector หัวฉีด Hua Cheet

Bonnet/Hood ฝากระโปรงหน้า Fah Gra-Bong Nah

Stereo เครื่องเสียง Krueng Seeang

Tyre ยาง Yaang

Hand Brake เบรคมือ Braake Mue

Exhaust ท่อไอเสีย Tor

Spare Tyre ยางอะไหล่ Yaang Alai

Steering Alignment ตั้งศูนย์ Dang Soon

Front Bumper กันชนหน้า Gan Chon Nah

Rear Bumper กันชนหลัง Gan Chon Lang

Distributor จานจ่าย Jarn Jai

Spark Plugs หัวเทียน Hua Ti-en

Shock Absorber โชคอัพ Chock-Up

Seat Belt เข็มขัด Kem Kat

Timing Belt สายพานไทม์มิ่ง Sy Paan Timing

CV Boot ยางหุ้มเพรา Yang Hum Pow

Suspension Spring สปริง S-Pring

Leaf Spring แหนบ Nairb

Rear Light ไฟหลัง Fai Lang

Reverse Light ไฟถอยหลัง Fai Toi Lang

Head Light ไฟหน้า Fai Naa

Indicator/Turn Light ไฟเลี้ยว Fai Leeo

Differential ไฟท้าย Fuang Tai

Horn แตร Dae

Wipers Blades ที่ปัดน้ำฝน Tee Bat Naam Fon

Oil Filter กรองอากาศ Glong Naam-an

Hi Apetley

With some apologies to you and Hans I have taken your list and sliced and diced it into excel and 3 columns

English, sounds like, Thai

and hopefully attached it here.

Cheers

Car_parts_in_Thai.xls

Thanks a lot for putting this in a Excel format. I just printed it off and will keep it the glovebox of my car. Very handy, indeed.

[denboy]

On a Nissan I owned I had nearly identical problems which turned out to be a loose plug on the side of the carburetor. The plug was part of the heat sensing system for the auto choke.

Take a look on the side of your carburetor and see if there's an electrical plug and that it's pushed in firm. I also found the female connectors inside the plug were loose and needed a slight squeeze for them to make contact correctly.

If that doesn't fix the problem I've added some information from the Haynes 1980 thru 1991 Nissan Pickups Automotive Repair Manual that may be of help.

Troubleshooting

Engine stalls

1. Idle speed incorrect

2. Fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system

3. Choke not operating properly

4. Damaged or wet distributor cap and wires

5. Emissions system components faulty

6. Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Also check the spark plug wires

7. Vacuum leak at the carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses

8. Valve clearances incorrect

This is a shortened version of the Nissan Service Manual diagnostic procedure for 1990 models.

Engine stall after deceleration

1. Check A.A.C. valve

2. Check idle adjusting screw clogging

3. Perform power balance check

4. Check ignition spark

5. Check fuel pressure

6. Check harness connections

Hope this helps

Hi,

It is very difficult to diagnose online although you seem to have plenty of tips of what could be the problem.

However a good mechanic check out such problems by sequence.

In your case the first thing that I would check is the distubutor contact points and then the plugs. then I would consider rotating slighty in either direction the distrubutor to give the optimum ignition timing, this I would do bearing in mind that it seems everyone is now using gasahol which do's affect the timing slighty.

next step would by the fuel delivery and the setting of the carburettor.

I am sure that any half baked mchanic can manage those simple checks.

It cannot be anything serious as it seems your motor performs OK when you give it gas.

Good luck

if you find the problem it will be intersting to hear what it was as sometimes one can be gob smacked.

[junkofdavid2]

How about translations for the following words? (with English letters too pls)

1) Check Timing

2) Check Bearings

3) Check Pulley Alignments.

*What is the word for "check" or "check up"?

[beethoven]

You need to explain your problem in more detail. When you first turn on the car in the morning, does it idle OK? or does it cut just after coming to a full stop after driving for a while?

Some ideas below are:

1. Check your idle trim. Assuming you have an older model car that doesn't use electronic throttle, you can simply do this yourself with a phillips screwdriver. Adjust the idle trim till about 700rpm.

2. the above will not work if your idle RPM fluctuates. That would be a sign of something more serious. Possibilities are numerous, but start with the cheapest solutions and work you way up to the more expensive possibilities. Fuel regulator is cheap to replace so start by replacing the fuel regulator and see if that fixes it. Other areas are oxygen sensor, but that will set you back Bt8,000, so leave that for a bit later. Timing belt is cheaper to look at so get that adjusted first.

3. Turn off the A/C and see if you idle better that way. Replace A/C compressor.

4. Go to an authorised dealer. Stay away from private garages. From experience, Honda and Toyota authorised dealers usually fix everything. If you have a Mazda or Mitsubishi, service quality is dicey and you can be forever paying out of the pocket while never getting it fixed, in which case get rid of the car.