Switch 2 Outlets With 'standard' Light On/off Switch

[welo]

Hi guys,

In our (rented) house with have those standard plastic outlet boxes which have room for one to three 2-pin-outlets or light switches (or two 3-pin outlets).

Like this one from Crossy's page

No grounding implemented so there are only 2-pin outlets in our setup (Sorry, Crossy! )

I wonder whether I can use one of those standard light switches to turn two 2-pin outlets in the same outlet box on/off.

Wiring should be straight forward, but two questions:

• Are those light switches usually two-pole switches? Do they cut both lines or just one?
  
• What about the Ampere specs? Each of them says 10A (outlet as well as the switch). So the switch is obviously not within the limits when cutting 2x 10A outlets. But does that mean the switch cannot cut >10A or that it might get fried in such a scenario.
  

I used a 2,5mm wire to connect that outlet box to the consumer unit. The MCB is labeled M5 but also supplies other circuits than the one outlet box mentioned.

We have one induction cooking plate (max 1500W) and one traditional electric cooking plate (max 1500W) plus a rice cooker (500W?) that we want to connect to the new outlet. A 2000W rated power board with built-in safety switch (not a fuse) was naturally triggered quite a view times.

welo

[Crossy]

OK, the light switches are invariably single pole (so make sure it's in the live).

In order to comply with UK or Oz regs the switch must be able to handle the rated current of the protecting breaker, so change the breaker to 10A and you'll be in business (I see you have a breaker labelled M5, please post a picture so we can determine the actual rating).

In reality it's all down to what you plug in, the telly and a light, no problem, the toaster and kettle, problem.

3,500 Watts, is WAY OTT for your 10A switch!!!

Why do you need the switch?

[welo]

Thanks for your reply, Crossy.

The switch was just an idea, because my Misses likes to unplug all devices if not used - out of habit. I don't really feel confident to break this habit, since these are high watt devices and we don't have ground, and the induction cooker only has an electronic switch off, the rice cooker none at all, and the electric cooking plate is one of those cheap China things that I don't trust at all.

I thought that an off switch next to the outlets would come convenient.

Had a closer look at my consumer unit and found the Amp ratings.

main circuit breaker: 45, M10

MCBs organized per room: 32A, 20A, 16A, 16A, all M5

32 being the kitchen.

The box looks very similar to the one on your website here, just with only 4 MCBs.

MCBs and main switch is all Square-D, main circuit breaker is model QO-MBX. I don't see any test switch and for sure there is no ground connected neither to the consumer unit nor to any outlet, so I just assumed that this is no ELCB...

Not sure why this one was rated that high previously. Now it makes sense since the landlord temporarily connected another (low-wattage: TV, fridge, old laundry machine, computer) house to that MCB so it probably makes sense. That will change soon since our electricity bill gets higher and he wants to separate billing. But no other real high-wattage devices, biggest is the shower heater (4500W), no air-con.

Back to the kitchen: 3500 Watt on that (two) outlets is not completely unlikely, even though the cooking plates are usually NOT used at maximum.

So limiting the circuit to 10A to match the switch doesn't make sense at all. Are there higher-rated switches that fit into those outlet boxes commonly available (countryside)?

I guess I just forget about the switch and replace it with a third outlet.

welo

[Crossy]

Not sure if higher rated switches are available I'm pretty sure I've seen proper switched outlets but I'm damned if I can remember where.

PLEASE get a Safe-T-Cut or other RCD installed particularly as you have no grounding.

You should replace the kitchen breaker with no bigger than 20A, running the Thai 16A outlets (likely on 2.5mm cable) with 32A of protection is asking for overload problems.

[welo]

Thanks. Found another thread on switched outlets but I will probably just drop the idea.

I planned to replace the whole consumer unit and install grounding (after going through your website and some topics on TV) but couldn't find an agreement with the landlord.

You write on your website that there are combined main circuit switches plus RCD available. Do they fit in my consumer unit (like this one just only 4 MCBs) instead of the double-row main circuit switch or do I have to go with an external Safe-T-Cut.

You still didn't tell me what happens with outlets and switches with too much current going through them... I wonder because I noticed that those 2pin outlets that are used everywhere in the house and also in the kitchen state only 10A, which is only 10Ax220V=2200W.

welo

[stgrhe]

You write on your website that there are combined main circuit switches plus RCD available. Do they fit in my consumer unit (like this one just only 4 MCBs) instead of the double-row main circuit switch or do I have to go with an external Safe-T-Cut.

A combined unit is called Residual Current Breaker with Overload protection (RCBO) and is available as slim line version (switching the phase) that would fit in your distribution board.

[Crossy]

You write on your website that there are combined main circuit switches plus RCD available. Do they fit in my consumer unit (like this one just only 4 MCBs) instead of the double-row main circuit switch or do I have to go with an external Safe-T-Cut.

You still didn't tell me what happens with outlets and switches with too much current going through them... I wonder because I noticed that those 2pin outlets that are used everywhere in the house and also in the kitchen state only 10A, which is only 10Ax220V=2200W.

Indeed, a double pole RCBO can be used to replace your current incomer with no issues, do NOT use a slimline (single pole) unit on the incoming supply.

Overload an outlet or switch and it will get hot (they get pretty warm anyway), continue the overload and it will start to smell, keep going and you get a fire! This is exacerbated by the poor quality of many local outlets leading to poor contact and heating.

[welo]

I will check for prices and see what is the cheaper option (external SAFE-T-CUT vs. double-pole RCBO).

Do I have to consider any specs? I remember reading about trip time (<=30ms) or is this only related to ELCBs? Ehm..

If I (or the landlord) want to move to a bigger consumer unit and install a ground and ELCB, which is the better way to go now cost-wise?

Thanks again!

welo