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Best Air Con System For Large Bungalow


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i need to fit a decent aircon system in my bungalow, i want a quiet and not so expensive system , the bungalow inside is much like a large condo with open plan bedroom and living room / bathroom etc , so basically 1 very large room 75 square metres. so which is the best aircon system to buy and where? homepro? home mart ? i will be buying it in udon or khon kaen area. how much would i pay for system plus fitting ?

thanks

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For an area that large you may be best cooled if you install two units rather than one large system. By my calculator a 48,000 btu unit for that area or two 24,000 btu units. There must be many local air con dealers aroun that area also and I would not buy from the big box stores.

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Yup ^^^

longball is in the right ball-park :)

I agree that two units would be smart, you can run only one when it's not too hot and you'll get a better air distribution anyway.

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Rule of thumb in Thailand is 750 - 800 BTU/ sq m for household a/c. I agree with the earlier replies, best to consider multiple a/c systems. If you have a very large area can sometimes consider to put in some partitions - this will save electrical costs if you are not using the whole space all the time. Just cool the areas you need.

Avoid the big box retailers for a/c. Use a local dealer. They will be able to take care of you better for warranty and after sales service. Installation by a dealer affiliated with a manufacturer will probably give more assurance of a proper job, many of the independent a/c installation, repair, service guys do not know what they are doing.

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In reading the OP again and the replies I would add that any single large AC will draw huge amps and I believe you can only buy up to about 36,000 btu units that are single phase systems and over that I think only 3 phase is available. So the another added reason is how big is your supply?

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Assuming that you have a floor to ceiling height of 2.8metres and you would be comfortable with an internal temperature of 23 degrees centigrade when the maximum outside temperature would be 35 degrees C,then a Daikin cassette four way throw INVERTER split system,with a cooling load of about 36,000 btu/hr. should suffice.The indoor unit would be mounted within the loft/ceiling space with the grille on the underside of the ceiling.As it is an inverter with a low starting current,it will require a 240 volt supply with a fuse rating of about 15 amps.

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I think the unit will be straining to keep the 75 sqm cool enough especially if it is not insulated and has windows.

You need to know the height from floor to ceiling as well as the area to accurately calculate the heat gains to a particular area,longball.The formula for determining the heat gains are the surface area(ft2)x a coefficient of heat transfer(for example single glazed glass is 0.9 btu/ft2. hr.degree F)x the temperature difference betwween the maximum outside temp. and required internal temp.(degree F).Add to that the heat gains from lights, machinery i.e T.V and computer, people and the infiltration from cracks in the windows and doors and you get the total heat gains to a particular room.Ofcourse,if the loft is insulated and there are a limited number of windows then this will reduce the heat gains, as you say, to the open plan area.Perhaps the OP can provide a little more detail.

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I think the unit will be straining to keep the 75 sqm cool enough especially if it is not insulated and has windows.

You need to know the height from floor to ceiling as well as the area to accurately calculate the heat gains to a particular area,longball.The formula for determining the heat gains are the surface area(ft2)x a coefficient of heat transfer(for example single glazed glass is 0.9 btu/ft2. hr.degree F)x the temperature difference betwween the maximum outside temp. and required internal temp.(degree F).Add to that the heat gains from lights, machinery i.e T.V and computer, people and the infiltration from cracks in the windows and doors and you get the total heat gains to a particular room.Ofcourse,if the loft is insulated and there are a limited number of windows then this will reduce the heat gains, as you say, to the open plan area.Perhaps the OP can provide a little more detail.

hi ,

if you guys look up ( my isaan bungalow part 4 ) you will see the interior of the house, it is in total 75 sqm but we have a seperate toilet which takes up 5 sqm, we only use it for holiday home at minute so dont fancy having to fork out for 2 systems, we also have two ceiling fans installed. no one has said which system is best ? yamaha/samsung etc ? with prices for fitting inc.

thanks

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I think the unit will be straining to keep the 75 sqm cool enough especially if it is not insulated and has windows.

You need to know the height from floor to ceiling as well as the area to accurately calculate the heat gains to a particular area,longball.The formula for determining the heat gains are the surface area(ft2)x a coefficient of heat transfer(for example single glazed glass is 0.9 btu/ft2. hr.degree F)x the temperature difference betwween the maximum outside temp. and required internal temp.(degree F).Add to that the heat gains from lights, machinery i.e T.V and computer, people and the infiltration from cracks in the windows and doors and you get the total heat gains to a particular room.Ofcourse,if the loft is insulated and there are a limited number of windows then this will reduce the heat gains, as you say, to the open plan area.Perhaps the OP can provide a little more detail.

hi ,

if you guys look up ( my isaan bungalow part 4 ) you will see the interior of the house, it is in total 75 sqm but we have a seperate toilet which takes up 5 sqm, we only use it for holiday home at minute so dont fancy having to fork out for 2 systems, we also have two ceiling fans installed. no one has said which system is best ? yamaha/samsung etc ? with prices for fitting inc.

thanks

If you are occupying the space for only a couple of months a year, install 2 split types 24,000 BTU Central Air. Electricity for running both units 12 hours a day will probably be around Bt3.2k a month. But then, it's only 2 months in a year.

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The brand is a personal choice as I think the leaders in the AC market are all pretty much the same. All offer a 5 year compressor warranty and typical 1 year on other parts.

I have to Mitsubishi units installed about a year and no problems. I can say the compressor on the larger one is noisy because of the cheap sheet metal housing that vibrates and rattles. Tried quieting twice now and it still rattles. The smaller unit is whisper quiet. Both units bring the temp down and keep it there nicely.

Daikin and Panasonic I hear are also good. I don't think spending the extra cost for the inverter models is cost effective in you're case of using one or two months a year

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The brand is a personal choice as I think the leaders in the AC market are all pretty much the same. All offer a 5 year compressor warranty and typical 1 year on other parts.

I have to Mitsubishi units installed about a year and no problems. I can say the compressor on the larger one is noisy because of the cheap sheet metal housing that vibrates and rattles. Tried quieting twice now and it still rattles. The smaller unit is whisper quiet. Both units bring the temp down and keep it there nicely.

Daikin and Panasonic I hear are also good. I don't think spending the extra cost for the inverter models is cost effective in you're case of using one or two months a year

If,in this situation,you have a split system or systems of the capacities mentioned,the extra cost of an inverter would be beneficial because of the lower fuse rating.A cheaper standard split system with a much higher starting current could lead to a new fuseboard or changing the existing one.Mitsubishi,Daikin and Fujitsu are all reliable manufactuers of comfort cooling equipment.

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Hi

I am looking for around 24.000BTU unit,(living room 40m2 been quoted 45.000Baht for Mitsubishi aircon, i did see that inverter aircon will save up to 60%?, i have heard that Daikin was the most quiet on the market???? I really want a quiet one, my old one (York) is not that quiet, will be moved to my bed room the one there is only 9000BTU and the room is 25m2, its running on full speed to keep it 24DG. Please ad if you think i missed something

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A cheaper standard split system with a much higher starting current could lead to a new fuseboard or changing the existing one

true! assuming the "fuseboard" is more than a century old (which is highly unlikely).

p.s. for God's sake, all people who have no bloody technical idea please refrain from giving &^**&% advice which only confuses those who are seeking proper advice! :)

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A cheaper standard split system with a much higher starting current could lead to a new fuseboard or changing the existing one

true! assuming the "fuseboard" is more than a century old (which is highly unlikely).

p.s. for God's sake, all people who have no bloody technical idea please refrain from giving &^**&% advice which only confuses those who are seeking proper advice! :)

Wipe the spit and froth off your keyboard and calm down,will you.

For example:

36,000 btu/hr. INVERTER split system.

F.L.A..................15 amps

S.C.....................5 amps.

36,000 btu/hr. STANDARD split system.

F.L.A...................15 amps

S.C......................35 amps.

I said COULD not WOULD need a new fuseboard and,for that matter, a new incoming mains.I dont know what supply he's got in his house but,one thing I do know is that you don't know either.If he's got half a brain,he'll get his electrical supply checked before he orders the unit.

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The starting currents of domestic airconditioners have no affect upon the wiring or the switchboard (consumer unit). The Full Load Current (FLA) is the only thing considered when sizing cables.

Also, the starting current for most types of machines does not affect the cable size. Such starting currents may, however, affect the type of fuse or circuitbreaker used to protect the cable.

Edited by elkangorito
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