Safe Throttle Lock....Not Cruise Control.

[BSJ]

Hi folks, at the moment I am getting the ST1100 ready for a couple of big trips and I am considering my options regarding cruise control et al. At the top end is the MCcruise electronic cruise control for Au$900. At the bottom end is the 79cent Catepillar "O" ring some people use....which isn't cruise or a true throttle lock. Then there's the Throttlemeister (pix 1) or the Brakeaway (pix 2). None appeal! So I came up with some thing I like which is so simple even I can make it! It's a sliding bar end connected by cable to a solenoid. Touch the brakes and a Thermal Overload Switch trips and causes the solenoid to deactivate. What I like is there is no vacuum to worry about. Constant speed on hills? On hills I would rather be in charge of the throttle anyway. And I don't have to pull the carbs out to fit a new arm to the throttle linkage. The electrical schema is pix 3.

Anyone think it's a good idea...or not?

[VocalNeal]

What is the advantage of the thermal overload over a latching relay circuit?

Does the CAT "O" ring work like these

[LivinLOS]

Ya know.. I am sure your thinking this through..

But home made throttle lock just screams darwin award to me !!

I did a rebuild and routed a throttle cable in a way it wasnt free.. Discovered on a test ride and rode the clutch all the way back to the workshop.. dam_n that was scary !!

[VocalNeal]

Did I miss something or is this simpler?

Thanks for the daily brain exercise and first time adding a file.

[BSJ]

Hi VocalNeal, the Cat "O" ring is fitted as per the pix.

Hi LivinLOS, got the bits I need so I will do a test circuit this weekend before it goes anywhere near the bike!

Hi VocalNeil, not sure about your schema, what does it do?

[VocalNeal]

Hi VocalNeil, not sure about your schema, what does it do?

The same as yours. Except I didn't use a thermal overload. I used a second relay. and sprung loaded toggle switch. Yes I did forget the spring on my schematic.

On line two when you close the toggle switch it engages and it pulls in relay 2, which on line three energizes your solenoid. At the same time the contact below R2 holds the relay in (latched) when you release the switch.

When the brakes are operated in line one, it energizes R1 which on line two opens the contact which drops out R2 which disengages the solenoid. When the brake is released the solenoid will not re-energize until you operate the switch again.

This is not fail-safe because if the fuse blows for some reason in the brake circuit application of the brake will not cancel the cruise control. But neither is yours as it also relies also on 12v from the brake circuit to operate the relay on your bottom line.

To refine the circuit if you can find a two way toggle switch you add a the second contact from the toggle on line one in parallel to the brake circuit to energize R1 to cancel the solenoid.

Edited September 10, 2010 by VocalNeal