Jump to content

Steel Fence Painting


bankruatsteve

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Just put in a "Thai style" steel fence which our local welder guy took longer than it probably should have to do. Anyway... we will be doing the painting and (not being all that familiar with painting steel) just wondering if there is any advice for that? Assuming a primer and then the color - yah? What about spray vs brush?

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use a Anti-Corrosive Red Oxide Primer like made by Captain. Give it at least 4 hours to dry and then use a High Gloss Enamel/Glipton paint.

I would use a brush. Spraying a fence already installed results in most of the paint just going into the air/completely missing the metal, plus you'll probably get more paint on the surrounding concrete, plants, etc. Use a brush...it takes longer but you will use less paint, probably end up with a thicker coating, and depending on the design of your fence, you probably get those places that spraying may have missed.

Don't let the bare steel set long in the environment....rust will set in fast. If any significant rust has already set-in, but sure to use some sandpaper or a steel brush to get it off before priming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They also make a rust inhibitor that works well if the metal starts to rust available at Most major shops Home Pro, True value(expensive but very good) & other assorted shops. Repainting will be needed every year or 2. We have metal & Galvanized steel & need to touch up the metal yearly. Remove rust brush or scotchbrite 2 coats of primer 2 coats of paint. Pretty eay just time to paint & stink for 2-3 days till the thinner wears off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Myself used Hammerite .. if you have not heard of it Google Hammerite.

Very expensive at Home Pro, but have not touched it again in over 4 years

You do need to have some white spirit handy as the brush dries out very fast here.. I bought the 'Hammered finish'

Others in the Village appear to get someone in or do it themselves every 2 years, so to me was well worth spending the extra in the 1st place.

Edited by ignis
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm now over the 3 year point on my fence which was painted using the method mentioned in Post #3. Only a few very small places ever developed some paint bubbles/rust underneath...scraped off the paint, sandpapered off the rust, reapplied the primer and paint....easy and quick fix....been good to go since. I really couldn't see completely repainting anytime soon as the paint still looks very, very good. Captain high gloss enamel/glipton paint was used. If I had to guess right now, it might need complete repainting at the 7-10 year point with some minor/spot touchups between now and then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm now over the 3 year point on my fence which was painted using the method mentioned in Post #3. Only a few very small places ever developed some paint bubbles/rust underneath...scraped off the paint, sandpapered off the rust, reapplied the primer and paint....easy and quick fix....been good to go since. I really couldn't see completely repainting anytime soon as the paint still looks very, very good. Captain high gloss enamel/glipton paint was used. If I had to guess right now, it might need complete repainting at the 7-10 year point with some minor/spot touchups between now and then.

Pib Your a lucky guy. We get a lot of water here & some of the metal supports for the fence are resting on dirt .Even at that I am lazy & in 5 years I will replace the metal that is severely rusted. The top parts I do the same & just touch up what is needed. I think I might have been better off buying a more quality paint. The primer & prep work is good but silver just gets beat to death in the hot sun. I wish I had my paint equipment here. I would use auto enamel paint with hardener & paint every 10 year & enjoy the siver gloss 10 years later.Black seems to do aa hell of a lot better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The place where we bought the steel apparantly put some king of rust inhibitor on as you get kind of any oily grit if rub the finger on it. I'm thinking that should that be cleaned off first? Or just go ahead with the primer? If need to clean, use what?

Thanks for the input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.







×
×
  • Create New...