True Ultra Hi-Speed Internet

[Pib]

JFC,

Good info. I'm still a few weeks away from getting hooked up with the 20Mb/2Mb package. The cable installers are in the final stage of trunk line installation in my moobaan. I signed up for the 20Mb/2Mb package last Friday...still being told my cable internet and TV will be hooked up mid March just as soon as the trunk line installation is completed.

Looking forward to some more speed test results from you....just the speedtest.net tests would be great for starters if you have the time. Are you getting 1Mb upload with your 10Mb/1Mb package? Hopefully your speeds will be significantly better than your True 8Mb ADSL package.

Pib

[Pib]

From looking at the Users Manual for the cable modem (weblink below) the modem is pretty straight forward and simple...no setup menu to go into and possibly mess up like DSL modems. I expect there is a setup menu a person could go into for factory diagnostic purposes but it's something the user don't need to venture into even if having whatever secret code is needed to get into a possible modem menu. The cable modem that came with my Roadrunner cable internet was the same way...simple and easy to use...plug it in and go...and if I remember right it was a Motorola modem also. But cable modem are sensitive to having the proper signal power level coming in...it has to be just in the right range...no to high and not too low...you cable TV can still be working fine, clear as a bell with a much wider signal power level than the cable modem. I think for the half dozen or more years I had Roadrunner cable internet I changed the cable modem only once when an updated modem was needed for a higher speed package...Roadrunner gave me both modem's free. And the splitter went bad one time where it caused the cable modem to not get enough power...but the cable TV signal was still just fine.

http://www.motorola.com/web/Business/Products/Modems%20and%20Gateways/Modems/Cable%20Modems/SB5101/_Documents/Static%20Files/567778-001_SB5101UN_User%20Guide_English.pdf

[jfchandler]

It's funny (not so funny) you mention the issue about the cable modem sensitivity, Pib... Because I'm now having what may be exactly that kind of problem.

The original connection the tech guy did was using my direct cable line to a laptop I happened to have at the same location as my main house TV -- before installing the splitter to send the Internet signal to the other side of the room where my main PC and router are located. That's where I did the original cable modem speed tests, at my main TV and prior to the splitter being cut in. And everything there was speedy and great.

But now, with the splitter installed and the coaxial cable from the splitter running another 20 or so feet to my PC/router, the connection there appears to be weak and inconsistent... It shows as being connected, but virtually nothing's coming down over the line....

Seems like I may have to call them back for a re-do on the service call, and in particular check the signal strength at the point of the PC/router -- something the guy didn't do today (I wish I would have known...). I've checked all the cabling connections, and they're all tight... So I'll root around a bit more... But it sounds like it may be the issue you're describing above.

Edited February 28, 2011 by jfchandler

[negreanu]

One test to L.A. came back with about a 2 MBps download, while the next one I ran a few moments later came back with a 4 MBps download from L.A

ouch not that great

[jfchandler]

Considering that the True 8 MB DSL here usually would run around 1 to 1.5 Mbps to Los Angeles at best... Note... those are single stream rates... not multi-threading.

One test to L.A. came back with about a 2 MBps download, while the next one I ran a few moments later came back with a 4 MBps download from L.A

ouch not that great

Edited February 28, 2011 by jfchandler

[negreanu]

which tests was that on out of interest?

[jfchandler]

Speed test was the L.A. LinkLine server from DSL Reports

http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest?flash=1

Just re-ran the same test on the same laptop -- now back to being connected to my True 8 Mbps DSL via wireless N... result the normal about 1.4 Mbps...although two hours later after the cable modem test via the same site.

And amid all this... Win 7 SP1 arrives via Windows Update... Yeesh!

[negreanu]

Yeh. You would probably get a faster speed on a larger file speedtest download. The download file size on the dslreports test is just too small and due to thai latency and geographic distance the download speed to their server is still accelerating when the test stops.

Edited February 28, 2011 by negreanu

[Pib]

It's funny (not so funny) you mention the issue about the cable modem sensitivity, Pib... Because I'm now having what may be exactly that kind of problem.

The original connection the tech guy did was using my direct cable line to a laptop I happened to have at the same location as my main house TV -- before installing the splitter to send the Internet signal to the other side of the room where my main PC and router are located. That's where I did the original cable modem speed tests, at my main TV and prior to the splitter being cut in. And everything there was speedy and great.

But now, with the splitter installed and the coaxial cable from the splitter running another 20 or so feet to my PC/router, the connection there appears to be weak and inconsistent... It shows as being connected, but virtually nothing's coming down over the line....

Seems like I may have to call them back for a re-do on the service call, and in particular check the signal strength at the point of the PC/router -- something the guy didn't do today (I wish I would have known...). I've checked all the cabling connections, and they're all tight... So I'll root around a bit more... But it sounds like it may be the issue you're describing above.

It very well could be. That splitter and additional cable lowered the signal to the modem by at least 3db. Back in the States when the Roadrunner guy came to my house once to troubleshoot no internet connection which was indicated by no IP addresss/internet connection and one light on the modem not lighting up when I did have an IP connection, the whole problem turned out to be the power level to the modem not being within the required range. For some reason I remember (I think, not sure) that the upper power level was a -7dbm (anything above that such as a -6, -4, 0, +3, etc) was too high and anything lower than a -20dbm (or -21, -22dbm, etc) was too low...now this is a pretty tight power operation range compared to a TV signal which can be around a -40 dbm and over 0dbm and still get a clear TV picture.

Keep in mind your internet signal is now arriving the input of your modem as Radio Frequency (RF) pulses in the 55Mhz to 1GHz range compared to a much lower frequency used in an ADSL copper phone line. When the technican comes back be sure he checks the power at the end of the RG-6 cable at whatever location your are going to have your cable modem so the proper power level can be confirmed. If you don't know where the final location of the modem may be be sure enough RG-6 cable is used to reach either location...when you move it to a different/closer location in the room you'll just need to loop-up/tie-up some of the cable...don't replace it with a shorter length cable....this way you are not changing the power level going to the modem, especially if the power level happens to be on the "border line" of the lower or upper range. And actually, since the RG-6 attenuation/loss per meter is only around 0.07db at 1GHz and 0.02db at 55Mhz the cable length won't make much of a difference. Another 20 ft of RG-6 cable would only make approx a 1.4db loss at 1Ghz, which ain't much of change db-wise unless the power level coming to the modem is border line.

What you could try for troubleshooting purposes is taking the splitter out and hooking the cable coming from the wall directly to the modem like you had it before. Assuming the splitter is a 3db splitter it will increase the power level to your modem by at least 3db...and then, if the connection starts working properly it's probably a low signal power situation. Hooking it directly to the RG-6 cable coming from the wall won't hurt the modem...it will only increase the power level to the modem a little. Hopefully the True technician has a power level meter and can check the power at the end of the cable you want to use regardless of modem location in the room. Be sure to ask him what the power level (upper and lower dbm limits) is...the more I think about by modem used with Roadrunner I don't know why a -7dbm to a -20dbm keeps coming to mind...it could be something significantly different on the True system/Motorola modem used by True...but the proper power level/range will still be critical for it to operate powerly. Remember you are dealing with an "RF" pulsed internet signal now versus a much, much lower signal frequency used for DSL. Also, be sure to check "closely" the ends of the RG-6 cable and splitter "connectors" to ensure no loose shielding strands are between the cable's center connector and outside/shielding connector.. any loose strands probably occurred by the guy stripping the cable ends in order to put on the connectors...loose strands can short out and/or greatly attenuate the signal.

Edited February 28, 2011 by Pib

[Pib]

Speed test was the L.A. LinkLine server from DSL Reports

http://www.dslreport...eedtest?flash=1

Just re-ran the same test on the same laptop -- now back to being connected to my True 8 Mbps DSL via wireless N... result the normal about 1.4 Mbps...although two hours later after the cable modem test via the same site.

And amid all this... Win 7 SP1 arrives via Windows Update... Yeesh!

Beats my TOT 6Mb package that just pulled a 801Kb download speed using above link to LA.

[Pib]

It's funny (not so funny) you mention the issue about the cable modem sensitivity, Pib... Because I'm now having what may be exactly that kind of problem.

The original connection the tech guy did was using my direct cable line to a laptop I happened to have at the same location as my main house TV -- before installing the splitter to send the Internet signal to the other side of the room where my main PC and router are located. That's where I did the original cable modem speed tests, at my main TV and prior to the splitter being cut in. And everything there was speedy and great.

But now, with the splitter installed and the coaxial cable from the splitter running another 20 or so feet to my PC/router, the connection there appears to be weak and inconsistent... It shows as being connected, but virtually nothing's coming down over the line....

Seems like I may have to call them back for a re-do on the service call, and in particular check the signal strength at the point of the PC/router -- something the guy didn't do today (I wish I would have known...). I've checked all the cabling connections, and they're all tight... So I'll root around a bit more... But it sounds like it may be the issue you're describing above.

JFC, Please disregard my earlier post...I found some more specific RF frequency information for your modem and it specification sheet, but I ran out of time to edit my previous post...but if I hadn't ran out of time here's how the post would/should have been written:

********************************************************

It very well could be. That splitter and additional cable lowered the signal to the modem by at least 3db. Back in the States when the Roadrunner guy came to my house once to troubleshoot no internet connection which was indicated by no IP addresss/internet connection and one light on the modem not lighting up when I did have an IP connection, the whole problem turned out to be the power level to the modem not being within the required range. For some reason I remember (I think, not sure) that the upper power level was a -7dbm (anything above that such as a -6, -4, 0, +3, etc) was too high and anything lower than a -20dbm (or -21, -22dbm, etc) was too low...now this is a pretty tight power operation range compared to a TV signal which can be around a -40 dbm and over 0dbm and still get a clear TV picture. But each cable modem signal input requirements will vary.

Keep in mind your internet signal is now arriving the input of your modem as Radio Frequency (RF) pulses in the approx 5Mhz to 45MHz range compared to a much lower frequency used in an ADSL copper phone line. When the technican comes back be sure he checks the power at the end of the RG-6 cable at whatever location your are going to have your cable modem so the proper power level can be confirmed. If you don't know where the final location of the modem may be be sure enough RG-6 cable is used to reach either location...when you move it to a different/closer location in the room you'll just need to loop-up/tie-up some of the cable...don't replace it with a shorter length cable....this way you are not changing the power level going to the modem, especially if the power level happens to be on the "border line" of the lower or upper range. But cctually, since the RG-6 attenuation/loss per meter is only around 0.02db at 45Mhz the cable length won't make much of a difference. Another 20 ft of RG-6 cable would only make approx a 0.2db loss at 45MHz, which ain't much of change db-wise unless the power level coming to the modem is border line.

What you could try for troubleshooting purposes is taking the splitter out and hooking the cable coming from the wall directly to the modem like you had it before. Assuming the splitter is a 3db splitter it will increase the power level to your modem by at least 3db...and then, if the connection starts working properly it's probably a low signal power situation. Hooking it directly to the RG-6 cable coming from the wall won't hurt the modem...it will only increase the power level to the modem a little. Hopefully the True technician has a power level meter and can check the power at the end of the cable you want to use regardless of modem location in the room. Be sure to ask him what the power level (upper and lower dbm limits) is.

According to to the below link the power level should be around a -15dbmV to a +15dbmV for your modem. Remember you are dealing with an "RF" pulsed internet signal now versus a much lower signal frequency used for DSL. Also, be sure to check "closely" the ends of the RG-6 cable and splitter "connectors" to ensure no loose shielding strands are between the cable's center connector and outside/shielding connector.. any loose strands probably occurred by the guy stripping the cable ends in order to put on the connectors...loose strands can short out and/or greatly attenuate the signal.

Here is a webpage link to your cable modem specifications: http://www.gpstechni...SB5101NE_UE.pdf

**************************************************

Edited February 28, 2011 by Pib

[Pib]

Also note the specifications says the cable modem will support up to 63 computers on a single internet connection (additional networking hardware required).

Or said in layman's terms, connect a router to the modem and you can feed 63 computers.

Of course the bandwidth to each of the 63 computers would be shared....kinda like hooking several water hoses to one water spigot...the hoses have to share/divided out the water. Two hoses split the available bandwidth by 2....10 hoses by 10...63 hose by 63, etc.

On a 10Mb main water pipe feeding 10 hoses (computers) and all hoses turned on/tapping the internet bandwidth at the same instance in time, each hose/computer would end up with an approx bandwidth of 1Mhz. Now if some of the hoses/computers where idling and not using very much internet bandwidth at a particular time, the other hoses' share would increase.

[jfchandler]

What you could try for troubleshooting purposes is taking the splitter out and hooking the cable coming from the wall directly to the modem like you had it before. Assuming the splitter is a 3db splitter it will increase the power level to your modem by at least 3db...and then, if the connection starts working properly it's probably a low signal power situation. Hooking it directly to the RG-6 cable coming from the wall won't hurt the modem...it will only increase the power level to the modem a little.

Thanks for all the tech info, Pib... Wish I had known all that before the True guy left my home today... But it's a good lesson for those who will follow in my footsteps.... When they set up the cable modem, make sure they (and you) do the signal test and confirm the net connection is solid with the splitter already installed and any additional cabling in place -- unlike what the True guy did in my house today.

As for your suggestion above, I'm not sure I can try that anymore...or if so, how...

Before, from the point where the cable entered inside my home, I had an uncut, unspliced run of probably 10 feet along one wall directly to where the cable connected directly to my main TV and cable box...

But today in doing the install, the True guy cut the original cable just where it enters the interior of my home, installed the splitter right there, and then hooked to splitter outlet A the original 10 foot cable leading to my TV and cable box, and then attached to splitter outlet B the new strand of 20 feet or so of cable he installed along an opposite wall running to my desk and PC/router.

So now, if I were to try the cable modem on either line, they'd both be feeding off the splitter. And the only way to avoid it would be to move the cable modem over to a corner top ceiling area at one end of the room where the original cable enters inside, and attach it there without the splitter. But that's 10 feet off the ground with nothing there to hold or place the cable modem on.

When the True guy did the original test and connection this afternoon, it was before he cut the original cable line and installed the splitter. He just disconnected the original uncut cable line from my cable box at my main TV, and plugged in the cable modem there and attached it to a laptop that I happened to have sitting at that same place. That's where I got the original quite good speed and speed tests from -- pre-splitter.

Based on what you're saying, there shouldn't be much any signal strength difference between one 10 foot line coming off the splitter (the one to my main TV) vs. the other 20 foot line coming off the splitter (the new line to my PC and router). But I could easily try moving the cable modem and such back over to the TV location and try it there again, with the splitter still installed.

PS - Pib, are you saying that by adding the splitter, its presence reduces the signal strength on both lines downstream by 3 db compared to the uncut line prior???

Edited February 28, 2011 by jfchandler

[Pib]

I was assuming the cable entry into the room was pretty close to the floor (like my cable outlet) and when you removed the splitter there would be enough cable coming from the wall to reach your cable modem although you would need to temporarily move your modem/computer. That is, you take the splitter out of the equation.

Yes, if running a RF cable into a power splitter and assuming the splitter splits the power in half (3db), 3db less power is going to your modem and 3db less power to your TV set top box. But splitters come in different varieties, such as possibly knocking down power going in one direction by 3db and the other direction by 6db, or 10db, etc.

On the splitter used on my Roadrunner system I do remember the splitter used reduced the power going to the modem by more than going to the TV...but that was related to the Roadrunner system, whatever power level they were feeding to the my home, and the particular modem being used.

Can you still see the splitter...read any attenuation values on it. Maybe the splitter is not just a straight forth half power/3db splitter (half power reduction on each output) and maybe splits reduces power at one output more than the other. If the cable modem RG6 cable is hooked to the splitter output with the greater attenuation value (say a -6db) try switching it to the other outlet (say it's a -3db attenuation). Just flip the output connections around and see what happens...it may end up sending more signal power to your cable modem....Or send less...but regardless is won't hurt your modem or TV box.

Yes, anytime you run a certain power level into a splitter, the splitter outputs will be at a lower level...no different than teeing off a 1/2 inch water outlet to two 1/2 inch hoses....each of those hose will receive half of the water coming form the outlet.

Edited February 28, 2011 by Pib

[jfchandler]

Thanks Pib... I'll try to see if there's any fine print to read on the splitter the guy used up in the corner of my ceiling where the cable comes indoors...

Meanwhile, I know a bit more now...

--I tried two different computers on the end of the 20 foot new coax cable the True guy installed, and neither would recognize any network via the cable modem.

--So I unplugged and moved the cable modem back over to the main TV location, which is now fed by the original 10 feet coax cable coming off the new splitter. Now with the splitter installed on that line, I plugged in the cable modem and the Ethernet into my laptop there, and bingo, picked up and recognized the network right away...no problem...even with that line being fed off the new splitter.

I also re-ran a bunch of speed tests on that laptop using the cable modem connection -- the same laptop I had used earlier today sans the splitter -- and got 600 to 800 Kbps on average downloads via speed tests from L.A. and the Bay Area...all those being run about 10:30 pm tonight via the cable modem.

Now, the surprising part is....after I finished with that, I went into the bedroom and ran the same speed test sites using a wireless N laptop connected to my 8 MB DSL connection, and consistently got 1600 to 1800 Kbps to L.A. and the Bay Area...now at 11 pm

Could the addition of the splitter on the cable line cause such a degradation in line speed to leave one connection unusable and the other down at 600-800 kbps speeds, compared to 2-4 Mbps this afternoon with no splitter installed?

In any event, something really is amiss with the 20 foot new cable connection the guy ran from the splitter to my PC and router... Now hopefully I just need to get True to come back and figure out what!!!

PS - I just looked at the splitter, which has a True sticker on it with a model reference something like True 2015G... The two outlets labeled Out 1 and Out 2... no other visible markings re DB.

Edited February 28, 2011 by jfchandler

[Pib]

Unscrew that 20 ft cable from splitter and look very closely inside the connectors on both ends to ensure no lose metal strands/foils is between the center conductor and outer conductor. Clean out any you see and reconnect.

Also look a the output connector of the splitter for any metal particles and clean if required.

And it could be the splitter is just bad. But If assuming the cable running from the splitter to your cable modem is good and assuming we are not dealing with a border line power level here, by switching the cable connections "on the splitter outputs" may fix your problem. And if you TV reception goes bad then that's further proof the splitter is bad. A lot depends on what kind of splitter you have attenuation-wise to each output.

The technician should have tested the internet connection with the splitter and cable run to your modem/computer in place.

Edited February 28, 2011 by Pib

[jfchandler]

Fortunately, and I guess not surprisingly given what you said above about the signal tolerances of cable signals, the reception to my main living room TV and then the second service point in a bedroom, which is reached by another splitter, have remained fine throughout.

[Pib]

But the TV set-top boxes have a much wider input power range and don't do the "resent the packet/error checking" thing if there are packet transmission errors being caused by whatever issues associated with the cable internet setup (inside or house your residence). When certain bits and bytes don't arrive properly in a cable TV transmission, the set-top box don't ask for them to be resent and slow down the incoming picture transmission...you just get a messed up TV picture for X-amount of time. But an internet connection can slow down a lot if a lot of "resends/errors" are occurring for whatever reason and all you notice on your computer is a slow download/upload speed, pausing in the streaming video, etc., because there is a lot of retransmission/error checking underway.

I just did a test to LA again using the same LA link as before and got 1.1Mb on my TOT 6Mb package.

[jfchandler]

You're getting 1 Mbps international on a 6 Mbps TOT plan, while I'm getting 1.6 Mbps international on a 8 Mbps True DSL plan. both in prime time... Not far off in the relative ratios....

However, I am thinking, Pib, that you should do much better when your cable is finally hooked up, because, from what you've said, all the wiring and connections they're doing for this in your development will be new and done from scratch.

Because I live in an older house and neighborhood, when I look out the window, it looks like a black linguini factory exploded and left hundreds of strands of black wires hanging in all directions all over the street poles... The way the wiring is hung and arranged, I can only say... looks like it was done as some kind of primate cognitive experiment...

I'll try swapping the splitter connections in the morning, after the wife's off to work... And see if that makes any difference.

[Pib]

I expect the True International Gateway has more bandwidth than the TOT International Gateway. Fortunately the black linguine in my moobaan ain't too bad since TOT had originally run some large main lines to minimize the number of long additional, separate lines to add-on capacity/numbers at a later date. And once True finishes laying in its cable TV/internet trunk line with all new equipment (line amplifiers, splitters, junction points, etc) I have no doubt there will be issues to fix like where a brand new equipment item prematurely fails, a trunk line cable connection was not initially made correctly, etc. Then of course, we'll still be using the same True International Gateway. But of course its more than just a gateway that determines total speed---the whole circuit to include those portions between a residence and the gateway have an impact. Sometimes I think "local" choke points (like right within your immediate area) cause many of the bandwidth/speed problems versus the big international gateway in the sky..

But from what I've seen in Thai blogs on the True Cable Ultraspeed, people are getting some pretty good speeds to international sites. For example like this Thai guy on the 20Mb plan: http://www.adslthail...3667#post163667 although his ping times are coming from True's Warp Speed 25th Century Faster Than Light Internet Server (i.e., false ping times and maybe false speed results)

Good luck.

Edited March 1, 2011 by Pib

[lopburi3]

You may want to read this thread and see if it applies to you.

TRUE speed limiting downloads

[jfchandler]

Well, I was up early this morning, and now appear to have my True cable connection working properly at the PC/router end point... I checked all the cabling and reattached everything this morning. Other than that, the only thing I changed was I noticed the center pin on the coax cable going into the cable modem had been cut unusually long by the True tech, so I trimmed it to a normal length, plugged in, and now the network immediately connects and is recognized...

I ran a series of speed tests this morning comparing both the 8 MB True DSL connection with the 10 MB True cable connection. The speed results bounced around a bit depending on the source and test, but the real noticable difference was in the quality of service measurement from a Microsoft test site...which shows 80%+ QOS for the cable compared to under 10% QOS for DSL, and I reran that test a second time just to make sure the difference wasn't a fluke.... That's a huge difference, and reflects what I'd already seen regularly with my DSL feed speed bouncing dramatically up and down...

I'll post screen captures of the various speed results below...

[Pib]

Actually, the center pin should stick out about an 1/8" past the screw-on part to allow easier insertion and more physical connection since the center female pin of the connector your are attaching the cable to is recessed a little. But cutting it flush is still OK...just pay extra attention when removing "and then reinserting/screwing on the connector" to ensure the center pin fits into the female center connector before you start screwing down the connector; otherwise the center pin may not go into the female pin and the male center pin will just bend over and short-out/ground the connection. Wow, this RG-6 TV/internet cable connector talk is turning me on...I need to end this post.

[jfchandler]

True 10 MB Cable via True Speedtest

True 8 MB DSL via True Speedtest

True 10 MB Cable via MS Diagnostics

True 8 MB DSL via MS Diagnostics - test #1

True 8 MB DSL via MS Diagnostics - test #2

Edited March 1, 2011 by jfchandler

[Wavefloater]

Do you have to take their poorly-valued TV package to get high(er) speed internet service from them?

[jfchandler]

True 10 MB Cable speedtest via DSL Reports Los Angeles

True 8 MB DSL speedtest via DSL Reports Los Angeles

True 10 MB Cable speedtest via DSL Extreme Los Angeles

True 8 MB DSL speedtest via DSL Extreme Los Angeles

Edited March 1, 2011 by jfchandler

[Pib]

I ran a series of speed tests this morning comparing both the 8 MB True DSL connection with the 10 MB True cable connection. The speed results bounced around a bit depending on the source and test, but the real noticable difference was in the quality of service measurement from a Microsoft test site...which shows 80%+ QOS for the cable compared to under 10% QOS for DSL, and I reran that test a second time just to make sure the difference wasn't a fluke.... That's a huge difference, and reflects what I'd already seen regularly with my DSL feed speed bouncing dramatically up and down...

That stop-and-go problem where the flow stops for X-milliseconds, then you get a burst of speed for X-milliseconds, etc., is a major stumbling point in receiving streaming video. Streaming video likes a smooth, pretty constant bandwidth; otherwise, you get a lot of pausing/buffering. It can also affect VOIP calls but only if the "stops" are long (around a second or longer) and frequent. I've never had a problem with VOIP calls to the States since the bandwidth requirement is only around a 100Kb or less...I think my VOIP bandwidth requirement is set to something around 30Kb and calls to the States are clear as a bell. But even if that low bandwidth/speed is interrupted for too long the VOIP can easily drop the call. Ever since I been in Thailand and being on a variety of ADSL internet plans like the TOT 2Mb plan, the JINET 2Mb plan, the TOT 4Mb plan and now the TOT 6Mb plan the bandwidth flow has always been stop-and-go, choppy. Kinda look like a daily stock market or FX chart on a volatile trading day where you see deep dips for a few minutes and then it recovers to the previous level, then it takes another sharp dip, etc. Sounds like the Ultraspeed may have more "keep going" to it has "stop for a while."

[jfchandler]

Do you have to take their poorly-valued TV package to get high(er) speed internet service from them?

From what we understand.....

1. You don't need to actually subscribe to or have a TrueVisions TV package in order to order their cable internet service.

2. You do need to have TrueVisions cable TV service AVAILABLE at your location, because if cable service isn't available there, then the cable internet won't be available from True either.

However, there apparently are areas with True cable TV service available that don't yet also have cable internet available...because of the extra data equipment that must be installed to support it.

Just how broad True's service footprint is for their cable internet service is in BKK, we really don't know.. since they haven't made public any details about that, as yet. There was, however, a post by TV member Pib earlier in this thread that listed (from a third party source) the sois and areas where cable internet supposedly is available from True.

Actually, at the same time I ordered True's cable internet service, I also downgraded by cable TV service with them from Silver Package down to the less expensive Knowledge Package.

Both the cable internet and cable TV are offered by True. But the customer support, billing, services etc. are offered and operated by entirely different True divisions.

[Pib]

Do you have to take their poorly-valued TV package to get high(er) speed internet service from them?

No you do not. The Ultraspeed is actually from the TrueOnline side of the company, not the TrueVisions TV side. You can sign up for either or both...your choice. But True has to have cable TV in your....cable TV lines which are also equipped to provide internet service. Just having cable TV lines don't mean the lines are also equipped for internet.

Edited March 1, 2011 by Pib

[jfchandler]

That stop-and-go problem where the flow stops for X-milliseconds, then you get a burst of speed for X-milliseconds, etc., is a major stumbling point in receiving streaming video. Streaming video likes a smooth, pretty constant bandwidth; otherwise, you get a lot of pausing/buffering. It can also affect VOIP calls but only if the "stops" are long (around a second or longer) and frequent. I've never had a problem with VOIP calls to the States since the bandwidth requirement is only around a 100Kb or less...I think my VOIP bandwidth requirement is set to something around 30Kb and calls to the States are clear as a bell. But even if that low bandwidth/speed is interrupted for too long the VOIP can easily drop the call. Ever since I been in Thailand and being on a variety of ADSL internet plans like the TOT 2Mb plan, the JINET 2Mb plan, the TOT 4Mb plan and now the TOT 6Mb plan the bandwidth flow has always been stop-and-go, choppy. Kinda look like a daily stock market or FX chart on a volatile trading day where you see deep dips for a few minutes and then it recovers to the previous level, then it takes another sharp dip, etc. Sounds like the Ultraspeed may have more "keep going" to it has "stop for a while."

Pib, as you and others here may know, my main interest in a higher speed Internet connection, apart from just general web use, is to support video streaming .... I had been getting an acceptable result from the True DSL, though time of day mattered a lot and I always had to be careful to set my browser/receiver settings to the lowest available stream data rate in order to avoid stalls/freezes...

I'm hopeful the cable feed will, as shown above, provide a more stable stream. The speed tests above also generally show somewhat better speeds to the U.S. with the 10 MB cable vs. the 8 MB DSL...

And, it shouldn't be lost in discussion, the change to cable and the 10 MB plan is already at a 200 baht per month savings over DSL (699 baht for 10 MB cable vs.899 baht for 8 MB DSL). Another nice part about the cable service, if it proves reliable over the longer term, is that the upgrade feature (the ability to opt for higher speed plans) is much more economical on the cable side compared to the DSL at present.

I'm ready to put that monthly savings from my cable TV package downgrade into upgrading to the 20 MB cable service if everything pans out in the weeks/months ahead.