Walking In Bangkok

[ProfessorFart]

Buadhai's post about Tha Tien has got me thinking about walking in Bangkok.

I am an inveterate wanderer and first came across the Tha Tien area south of Wat Pho whilst on one of my many aimless rambles.

I have explored the popular areas such as Chinatown, Rattanakosin, and Chareon Krung many times and there is probably nothing new there for many of you.

I have also found some great little pockets of Bangkok amidst the concrete and fumes which were I not such a walker I would never have found. To me finding these places made the more unpleasant aspects of walking in Bangkok worthwhile.

My question is this. Do any of you ever walk for pleasure in Bangkok and if so where, and what interesting finds have you made?

[zaz]

Yes I like walking in BKK. I walked out of my hotel and decided to go up the road and discovered a fabulous large building with the letters M B and K on it. So I ventured in and had a look around. Some pretty cool shops and all that....bought some jeans and shoes.

But seriously, I like venturing out and about (when I visit) but Bkk is so big it'd takes ages actually getting anywhere!!

[meom]

I wouldn't call it walking for pleasure but on more than one occassion I spent all my money in Cowboy and had to walk back to Huay Kwang. I noticed that there is less traffic 2am in the morning and having lost my way several times I've walked most of the back alleys around Ratchada. Never any problems though and I have to admit that the city looks different at a slow pace.

[ProfessorFart]

I've had a few drunken wanders myself but the trouble is I never remember where I've been.

[meom]

From Cowboy to Ratchada is quite a distance and it tends to sober one up

[buadhai]

I've been walking Bangkok for years. It's a fascinating place with the modern intermixed with the traditional almost everywhere you go.

Ms. Buadhai and I make periodic visits to Bangkok and always try to squeeze in a walk or two. We've got Bracken's "A Walking Tour - Bangkok" (Times Editions), Nancy Chandler's map and recently came across this site: Rattanakosin Walks.

Stickman also has a suggested walking tour on his site: Stickman's Bangkok Tour

[ProfessorFart]

I agree totally with Buadhai.

My main reason for asking is that in the past when I tell Bangkokians both Western and Thai that I'm going walking, the majority think I'm barking and sometimes wonder if I'm the only wanderer in Bangkok.

I could understand this if say I was going to walk from Sukhumwit to Banglamphu (or Cowboy to Ratchada ) but I just like to biff around a neighbourhood wandering into nooks and crannies. I have come across weddings, funerals, cock fights, guys making Buddha images, slaughterhouses, Muay Thai fighters in training, Tuk Tuk repair shops, Traditional wood carvers, as well as a host of great eating places and the list could go on.

My point is that on foot you see so much more, so why the reaction and general concensus that Bangkok is not a good walking city?

People cite the heat, traffic, and pollution but you get used to all these, and if you get lost there always seems to be a taxi to hand.

[alesypalsy]

Good stuff prof fart, Could you please tell me where china town actually is, I have never come across it,

I have walked many a time in bkk, love it and as you say you do certainly get to see things and places you would never get to see otherwise. I have walked a good length of suk from 4-60 looking for a condo and ended up with nothing and peed as a newt in a bar right up the end,,, the next day done the same on the oppisite side of the road and again ended up in a bar on the pee! had some good walks around suttisan area, loads of different stuff there, i have yet to walk around the river areas, looks nice and i want to see china town where all the gold sellers are.

cheers

[ProfessorFart]

Chinatown is the area just south west of HuaLamphong. Head for Wat Traimit (Golden Buddha) and just a little way past there is Yaowarat road. which is the gateway to Chinatown.

Heres a map!

Chinatown

[lomatopo]

My main reason for asking is that in the past when I tell Bangkokians both Western and Thai that I'm going walking, the majority think I'm barking and sometimes wonder if I'm the only wanderer in Bangkok.

When Thai acquaintenances ask me what I did today, and I tell them where I walked they do think that I am crazy. I'd probably think the samething if the roles/locales were reversed?

An interesting Chinatown walk I did recently was BTS to Saphan Taksin, express boat to Memorial Bridge, jogged left to Ban Mo Rd, wandered all around, but basically hooked a right turn and walked to Hua Lamphong and took the MRT home.

I also did the following: BTS to Ratchathewi, taxi to Dusit Palace, spent ~ 4 hours there, Vinmanek Palace, Throne Hall, etc., walked to the National Library, checked out some exhibits, walked to Thewet Pier, hopped an express boat south to Banglamphu, jumped off, walked through various side streets, including Khao San all the way to, and up the Golden Mount. I took a Khlong San Saeb canal boat home (my first time on this conveyance!). You can't beat the sights, images, sounds and smells of a walking tour, plus the exercise is a plus. Keeping in the shade (I don't mind the accompanying tan) and drinking lots of water help me to cover a lot of ground.

[ProfessorFart]

Dusit is probably the most pleasant area of Bangkok to stroll in in my opinion. Trouble was that last time I was there there was some celebration for schoolkids and there were thousands of the blighters there all shouting 'hello you' every three seconds or so. Made my life merry hel l I can tell you! After 10 minutes of this, for me to hail a passing cab and exit stage left for a comfortable hostlery and get outside a couple of cold drinks was the work of a moment!

I wonder why Thais are not into the concept of walking for recreation? Visit any National park and you can rest assured that after one mile in you have the place to yourself.

Edited November 18, 2005 by ProfessorFart

[The Gentleman Scamp]

People traffic.

[mrbojangles]

I wonder why Thais are not into the concept of walking for recreation?

I think it's the same for us, when at home Prof. No way, no how, will you ever get me walking around the UK. I drive everywhere and if i'm drinking i get a Taxi. However, when in LOS i love going for a stroll (the Mrs isn't so keen, as she thinks it's too hot to walk).

Also, when i walk, i do get fed up of Baht buses, Tuk Tuk's and Motorbike Taxi's etc stopping and trying to get me in. I sometimes think, they think we are just Cheap Charlie's, saving a few Baht, instead of understanding that we like a little stroll.

[Fast Eddie]

I also find that walking is the only way to really experience and get to know a place, and have had many enjoyable and interesting strolls around Bangkok. The excessive heat is certainly the main obstacle, although this has never deterred me, and i have also found that some people consider me crazy for enjoying such a pastime in the heat of Thailand.

The local reaction reminds me of the song by Noel Coward, 'Mad Dogs and Englishmen'

In tropical climes there are certain times of day

When all the citizens retire to tear their clothes off and perspire.

It's one of the rules that the greatest fools obey,

Because the sun is much too sultry

And one must avoid its ultry-violet ray.

The natives grieve when the white men leave their huts,

Because they're obviously, definitely nuts!

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun,

The Japanese don´t care to, the Chinese wouldn´t dare to,

Hindus and Argentines sleep firmly from twelve to one

But Englishmen detest-a siesta.

In the Philippines they have lovely screens to protect you from the glare.

In the Malay States, there are hats like plates which the Britishers won't wear.

At twelve noon the natives swoon and no further work is done,

But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

It's such a surprise for the Eastern eyes to see,

that though the English are effete, they're quite impervious to heat,

When the white man rides every native hides in glee,

Because the simple creatures hope he will impale his solar topee on a tree.

It seems such a shame when the English claim the earth,

They give rise to such hilarity and mirth.

Ha ha ha ha hoo hoo hoo hoo hee hee hee hee ......

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

The toughest Burmese bandit can never understand it.

In Rangoon the heat of noon is just what the natives shun,

They put their Scotch or Rye down, and lie down.

In a jungle town where the sun beats down to the rage of man and beast

The English garb of the English sahib merely gets a bit more creased.

In Bangkok at twelve o'clock they foam at the mouth and run,

But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

The smallest Malay rabbit deplores this foolish habit.

In Hong Kong they strike a gong and fire off a noonday gun,

To reprimand each inmate who's in late.

In the mangrove swamps where the python romps

there is peace from twelve till two.

Even caribous lie around and snooze, for there's nothing else to do.

In Bengal to move at all is seldom ever done,

But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

Edited November 18, 2005 by Fast Eddie

[Kathe]

I used to like walking around Sanaam Lueng, near Wat Prakaew and along to the river, or from Banglam Poo, to the park near the Chao Praya River in late afternoon, before sun set. Looking people walking by, sitting, relaxing, exercising. Or from Bangrak to New Road, from Siam Square to Pratoo Naam...Satorn Road once used to be a very nice place to walk with lots of big tree ...and small canal ( since I was a kid ) Silom Road used to have many big tree too...now no more tree only big snake..oppss...BTU

[dash]

I like the walk between Memorial Bridge and Tha Rachini through the market and it is the place where I get my durians ( in DEC) prepared ready to eat.

[ProfessorFart]

Mad Dogs and Englishmen was actually penned in the Oriental Hotel or so legend has it.

[Abandon]

I used to know a Fast Eddie in Manchester, who went busking with a big group every week, and would be late 50's about now. Any connection?

I often go walking about in Bkk - love the little corners that you find. Love the little engineering shops where you can buy all the tools or materials that Thai's tell you you cannot buy in Thailand.

[lopburi3]

As for the Thai not being keen on walking have you noticed the "white look" advertising? Rather hard to miss and rather hard to keep it in the sun.

As for myself (other than age - mobility) I find most streets to be very pedestrian unfriendly from the car/cycle/bus driver to the phone booth/political sign/electric pole/hanging wire/barbed wires/merchants blocking/drain covers missing/odd poles of various heights with no known purpose except to maim/dirt/sand/broken cement/gloss tiles/uneven bricks/mud/crossovers with giant steps and lights that are meangless/bird droppings/signs falling and the obviously you can not afford a bus if you have to walk attitude.

[daleyboy]

I agree totally with Buadhai.

My main reason for asking is that in the past when I tell Bangkokians both Western and Thai that I'm going walking, the majority think I'm barking and sometimes wonder if I'm the only wanderer in Bangkok.

I could understand this if say I was going to walk from Sukhumwit to Banglamphu (or Cowboy to Ratchada    ) but I just like to biff around a neighbourhood wandering into nooks and crannies. I have come across weddings, funerals, cock fights, guys making Buddha images, slaughterhouses, Muay Thai fighters in training, Tuk Tuk repair shops, Traditional wood carvers, as well as a host of great eating places and the list could go on.

My point is that on foot you see so much more, so why the reaction and general concensus that Bangkok is not a good walking city?

People cite the heat, traffic, and pollution but you get used to all these, and if you get lost there always seems to be a taxi to hand.

Agree totally with you mate. You miss so much in a little metal box.

In the U.K, because i have a car i drive everywhere and very rarely walk, but in Thailand, no car so i walk everywhere.

My wife thinks i am mad because i walk everywhere. We had to go from Ratchada soi 17 to the British embassy early one morning, now this was before the underground was open, so we got on a bus, one of the red ones, no aircon absoultley packed out. Anyway we stood in there for 10 minutes not even moving so i said come on we can walk. She thought i was mad, but we got out and walked to Sukhumvit then got a cab to the embassy, in the whole journey the bus didnt pass us once, so it is quicker to walk!!!!

[gburns57au]

I have walked all around Phnom Penh, KL, Saigon and Bangkok and also Pattaya,

I find it re-energises you and gets you off the bar stool or out of the pool, a little bit of light exercise is good for you when you are on holiday, gets the blood circulating. And it is so true that you meet so many different people and see so much more by walking.

[Fast Eddie]

I used to know a Fast Eddie in Manchester, who went busking with a big group every week, and would be late 50's about now. Any connection?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No connection, i'm about half that age and from Portsmouth. I guess there's many of us around

[johnnyk]

Thanks to all for some very good info that I will make use of my next trip.

[cobra]

I like getting out for a little exploration walk in the early morning, the temp is comfortable and the town is still a little sleepy.

I've discovered respendid houses with beautiful terraced gardens, lawns, behind ornate wrought iron fencing, hidden at the end of some little alley, or a little island of greenery that offers a refreshing respite with actual birds making most of the noise instead of traffic, and a little corner place that make the best Bloody Marys for a hang-over,

[LostBrit]

bkk, buys is the best place to have a walk, wherever u go, theres always somthing bound to get ur attention

[frenchFARANGbkk]

I could understand this if say I was going to walk from Sukhumwit to Banglamphu

I did it when I was here for the first time, BTS ONNUT to BANGLAMPHU/KAOSANROAD , 5 hours by walking!

Just to know the city.

Khon Thai couldn't believe it!

[frenchFARANGbkk]

Also, when i walk, i do get fed up of Baht buses, Tuk Tuk's and Motorbike Taxi's etc stopping and trying to get me in. I sometimes think, they think we are just Cheap Charlie's, saving a few Baht, instead of understanding that we like a little stroll.  :blin

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

So true, so boring in BKK when even the taxi going opposite use their horn as if I had not seen them.

How can they believe that maybe I'm walking because I couldn't find a cab?! In BKK! Stupid.

[The Dude]

Walking in BKK rules. The Dude digs it with a rather large shovel and discovers new and different things each time. I used to drive 50K miles/year in the states for over 20 years. I really got sick of driving and it is so impersonal. I have left the driving to my shoes. You can't beat walking around in this great city

[Bangkok Barry]

The first time I came to BKK I stayed at the Mandarin and went out for a stroll. But I couldn't get across the road (Suriwong) so I ended up just walking round the block.

But I love walking around any city I visit. It's just much more of an effort here (I completely agree with lopburi3 - I find most streets to be very pedestrian unfriendly from the car/cycle/bus driver to the phone booth/political sign/electric pole/hanging wire/barbed wires/merchants blocking/drain covers missing/odd poles of various heights with no known purpose except to maim/dirt/sand/broken cement/gloss tiles/uneven bricks/mud/crossovers with giant steps and lights that are meangless/bird droppings/signs falling).

My favourite area is between New Road and the river. There are some interesting communities there and much of the area is the old BKK, but it seems the air pollution is worse there than anywhere else in the city.

My wife thinks I'm nuts to walk. She'll even take a bus for one stop, and strangely she feels the heat much more than me. You'd think the natives would be used to it, but they hate it as much or more than anyone else.

[buadhai]

You'd think the natives would be used to it, but they hate it as much or more than anyone else.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ditto here. I keep telling Ms. B (born and raised in Korat) that she'll get used to the climate after she lives here a while....