Battery Life In Thailand

[BlackRose]

a battery in my Honda die already after eight months!

pay 550 bath for a new one!

after nearly 2 year my 70 amp battery from the Izusu get bad too.

Its just the head.... not under the hood, every car get hot.

but the high open air temperature

[rcalsop]

a battery in my Honda die already after eight months!

pay 550 bath for a new one!

after nearly 2 year my 70 amp battery from the Izusu get bad too.

Its just the head.... not under the hood, every car get hot.

but the high open air temperature

Welcome on board ...at least you know you are not alone .550 baht was a very good price !!! but 8 months was a little low inservice terms .

[raro]

In 30 plus years of motoring, driving and car ownership in varied locations , I have rarely purchased new batteries and when I have they have been 4 /5 years old . My Thai wife some time ago asked me when should we change the car battery I laughed at her and said they recharge and have a good life do not worry it is not like changing batteries in a torch . She had the last laugh !!

I recently had a sudden battery failure on my Honda of 14 months .. I started to enquire from Thai friends / Honda / Be Quick /local mechanic... was this normal .I was suprised with the response that it is a general feeling in Thailand that over a years service is okay , two guys change the battery always after 14 to 18 months as a standard practice . Also very few people have battery chargers , it is not even easy to buy one ..a cheap and cheerful Halfords charger does not seem to exist . I did buy one some time back as standard equipment but it was expensive big and not easy to get .

Be Quick said over one year service it could need changing as normal ... I had never thought this way or even heard this before .

Okay the prices are not that expensive Honda ( HAMP ) 820 baht new replacement ....Be quick ...950 baht ... sealed non maintainance type 1200 but small size difficult to get ...

The battery is considered a frequently changed commodity item here is it because of different standards , high use of A/C, traffic conditions ?.

What are your observations ?

Had exactly the same problem with my Jazz two days ago - same age as your car, 14 months. No sign of any warning, drove back home to Pattaya from Bangkok the evening before (so Battery should be fully charged) and the next morning nothing....nada...just a "click". Even the central lock didn't work anymore.

Was extremely pissed-off, especially since I brought it to Honda for the 70k service just a week earlier. Good thing, though, call Honda and they will send you within reasonable time a mechainc to help you out....for free! Nevertheless, complained to Honda as I suspected the Honda shop in Rayong skipped the battery part when they did the check-up. But reading through this thread, it seems to bee a common problem.

My driver actually told me after that Thais usually change instantly after purchase of a new car the battery and the tyres against something better....seems to be known that you get crap accessories with the original purchase.

[elkangorito]

Gentlemen,

For your benefit, please read the following;

To dispel a few myths, running extra electrical devices within your car will not have a bad effect upon your battery providing your alternator is not overloaded. Eg if you have a 35 amp alternator (standard for small cars) & your total load doers not exceed this value of current, your battery will be correctly & adequately charged. It's easy to tell if you have exceeded the output of the alternator - (do this test at night) start your car, turn on everything electrical & providing the headlights do not change in brightness too much when you rev the engine, everything should be ok. With a modern car, very little to no change would be expected under the above conditions. If, however, your alternator is overloaded (excluding possible electrical faults), then you would observe a noticable differnce in the brightness of the headlights between idle & above idle. If the lights dim noticably, it is likely that the voltage being supplied to the battery is a little low, thus not allowing full & proper charging of the battery.

Temperatures.

Most lead acid batteries have a max design charge/discharge temp of between 20 to 25 degrees celcius. If the ambient temps are higher, the battery will have a shortened life for given charge/discharge rates. Tropical conditions therefore, will have the effect of reducing battery life.

Battery size/type.

If the battery is too small for a given condition ie crank current, it is likely that the plates will bend & may even touch together, shorting out cells & therefore reducing the battery voltage. Also, the distance between the bottom of the plates & the bottom of the battery varies between each brand/type. As the battery discharges, lead oxide slowly falls off the plates & accumulates on the bottom of the battery. Eventually, the build up of lead oxide will reach the plates & short them out, resulting in a dead battery.

If you buy an over-sized battery, you may get a little longer life out of it but it will suffer a much more 'shallow' charge. This can be a problem when a large load is placed upon it as it may simply not perform. You see, lead acid cells have 'charge memory'. If it is discharged slowly, it will charge slowly & visa versa. If it is only ever slightly discharged, it is likely not to handle a large load (if it is old) but it will still work perfectly under low discharge currents.

Types.

Most automotive batteries are flat plate lead acid cells, with thicker plates for higher discharge rates & shock loads. Other types are tubular plate & Fibre cinter cell. These last 2 types are very expensive, have very long lives & are mainly used in commercial/industrial UPS or traction applications.

Care for your battery.

Every month, check the electrolyte level. Ensure that all the plates are covered by about 5mm of fluid. You should only top up the battery with distilled water. Tap water has too many impurities in it & will reduce the life/performance of the battery. Buy a Hydrometer & check the 'specific gravity' of the electrolyte. It should be between about 1.2 & 1.3 (1.25 is perfect). A low specific gravity can mean that you need to add acid (36% dilution of Sulphuric Acid). Add water if the SG is high.

In summary, buy the cheapest battery you can get because the weather conditions of Thailand will generally not allow you to get the true life/performance out of even the most expensive battery. BTW, humidity will not affect the battery. The average voltage to your battery as supplied by the alternator, should be between 13.5 & 16 volts but no less than 13.5 under any conditions (due to internal resistance, which increases with the battery's age). If the charge voltage is too high, check your vehicle's electrical system as this high voltage will 'cook' the battery (high charge current).

Your batteries have died a relatively natural death BUT, in order to help predetermine when this death takes place, one can conduct Specific Gravity tests (SG) on the electrolyte by using a very cheap thing called a Hydrometer. Also, annual load testing, which can be conducted at an automotive electrical establishment, can also help indicate the life of a battery.

In the old days, when batteries were "low tech", they failed much more slowly. Some may think that this is better as the belief is that you get some warning about the battery failure. In actual fact, this is not the case. The "old style" batteries failed very slowly & were still undetectable to most people. At least you are getting every cents worth out of your "modern" battery now.

Edited February 24, 2006 by elkangorito

[corkscrew]

In 30 plus years of motoring, driving and car ownership in varied locations , I have rarely purchased new batteries and when I have they have been 4 /5 years old . My Thai wife some time ago asked me when should we change the car battery I laughed at her and said they recharge and have a good life do not worry it is not like changing batteries in a torch . She had the last laugh !!

I recently had a sudden battery failure on my Honda of 14 months .. I started to enquire from Thai friends / Honda / Be Quick /local mechanic... was this normal .I was suprised with the response that it is a general feeling in Thailand that over a years service is okay , two guys change the battery always after 14 to 18 months as a standard practice . Also very few people have battery chargers , it is not even easy to buy one ..a cheap and cheerful Halfords charger does not seem to exist . I did buy one some time back as standard equipment but it was expensive big and not easy to get .

Be Quick said over one year service it could need changing as normal ... I had never thought this way or even heard this before .

Okay the prices are not that expensive Honda ( HAMP ) 820 baht new replacement ....Be quick ...950 baht ... sealed non maintainance type 1200 but small size difficult to get ...

The battery is considered a frequently changed commodity item here is it because of different standards , high use of A/C, traffic conditions ?.

What are your observations ?

Had exactly the same problem with my Jazz two days ago - same age as your car, 14 months. No sign of any warning, drove back home to Pattaya from Bangkok the evening before (so Battery should be fully charged) and the next morning nothing....nada...just a "click". Even the central lock didn't work anymore.

Was extremely pissed-off, especially since I brought it to Honda for the 70k service just a week earlier. Good thing, though, call Honda and they will send you within reasonable time a mechainc to help you out....for free! Nevertheless, complained to Honda as I suspected the Honda shop in Rayong skipped the battery part when they did the check-up. But reading through this thread, it seems to bee a common problem.

Good post... thank you!

My driver actually told me after that Thais usually change instantly after purchase of a new car the battery and the tyres against something better....seems to be known that you get crap accessories with the original purchase.

[elkangorito]

Corkscrew, what are you trying to say?

[Anon999]

I thought you were talking about small batteries.

I just got back from the store and bought batteries (they were still wrapped) for my wireless mouse, all turned out to be duds, all dead.

Panasonic Neo (black and white), CR@P!

I went back and got Panasonic Alkalines (gold-black-green), all fine.

Both made in Japan.

Like everything else batteries are copied by the unscrupulous so you probably picked up cheap copies.

[Anon999]

Gentlemen,

For your benefit, please read the following;

To dispel a few myths, running extra electrical devices within your car will not have a bad effect upon your battery providing your alternator is not overloaded. Eg if you have a 35 amp alternator (standard for small cars) & your total load doers not exceed this value of current, your battery will be correctly & adequately charged. It's easy to tell if you have exceeded the output of the alternator - (do this test at night) start your car, turn on everything electrical & providing the headlights do not change in brightness too much when you rev the engine, everything should be ok. With a modern car, very little to no change would be expected under the above conditions. If, however, your alternator is overloaded (excluding possible electrical faults), then you would observe a noticable differnce in the brightness of the headlights between idle & above idle. If the lights dim noticably, it is likely that the voltage being supplied to the battery is a little low, thus not allowing full & proper charging of the battery.

Temperatures.

Most lead acid batteries have a max design charge/discharge temp of between 20 to 25 degrees celcius. If the ambient temps are higher, the battery will have a shortened life for given charge/discharge rates. Tropical conditions therefore, will have the effect of reducing battery life.

Battery size/type.

If the battery is too small for a given condition ie crank current, it is likely that the plates will bend & may even touch together, shorting out cells & therefore reducing the battery voltage. Also, the distance between the bottom of the plates & the bottom of the battery varies between each brand/type. As the battery discharges, lead oxide slowly falls off the plates & accumulates on the bottom of the battery. Eventually, the build up of lead oxide will reach the plates & short them out, resulting in a dead battery.

If you buy an over-sized battery, you may get a little longer life out of it but it will suffer a much more 'shallow' charge. This can be a problem when a large load is placed upon it as it may simply not perform. You see, lead acid cells have 'charge memory'. If it is discharged slowly, it will charge slowly & visa versa. If it is only ever slightly discharged, it is likely not to handle a large load (if it is old) but it will still work perfectly under low discharge currents.

Types.

Most automotive batteries are flat plate lead acid cells, with thicker plates for higher discharge rates & shock loads. Other types are tubular plate & Fibre cinter cell. These last 2 types are very expensive, have very long lives & are mainly used in commercial/industrial UPS or traction applications.

Care for your battery.

Every month, check the electrolyte level. Ensure that all the plates are covered by about 5mm of fluid. You should only top up the battery with distilled water. Tap water has too many impurities in it & will reduce the life/performance of the battery. Buy a Hydrometer & check the 'specific gravity' of the electrolyte. It should be between about 1.2 & 1.3 (1.25 is perfect). A low specific gravity can mean that you need to add acid (36% dilution of Sulphuric Acid). Add water if the SG is high.

In summary, buy the cheapest battery you can get because the weather conditions of Thailand will generally not allow you to get the true life/performance out of even the most expensive battery. BTW, humidity will not affect the battery. The average voltage to your battery as supplied by the alternator, should be between 13.5 & 16 volts but no less than 13.5 under any conditions (due to internal resistance, which increases with the battery's age). If the charge voltage is too high, check your vehicle's electrical system as this high voltage will 'cook' the battery (high charge current).

Your batteries have died a relatively natural death BUT, in order to help predetermine when this death takes place, one can conduct Specific Gravity tests (SG) on the electrolyte by using a very cheap thing called a Hydrometer. Also, annual load testing, which can be conducted at an automotive electrical establishment, can also help indicate the life of a battery.

In the old days, when batteries were "low tech", they failed much more slowly. Some may think that this is better as the belief is that you get some warning about the battery failure. In actual fact, this is not the case. The "old style" batteries failed very slowly & were still undetectable to most people. At least you are getting every cents worth out of your "modern" battery now.

In Japan cars are fitted with small batteries as standard, probably because cars are very cheap in Japan, and they do not tend to last too long. This is mainly due to the fact they are working near maximum capacity, that is amp/hours, therefore battery life is short. In the UK it is normal to fit a 60 amp/hr battery to a car with a 2 litre engine or to smaller engined high performance engined cars because the compression ratio in the engine is higher and therefore more energy is needed to spin the engine. This provides spare battery capacity so it is not fully loaded. However, another factor is a battery must have enough capacity to power the electronics and more importantly the ignition system which takes a LOT of current to produce a fat enough spark to start the engine. When the battery gets old it loses capacity and consequently may turn the engine over but does not possess enough energy to generate an ignition spark.

If you check the batteries on your cars they're probably 45 amp/hour capacity, hence short life. Another cause of battery failure is topping it up with anything other than distilled water. Letting a garage top it up is not such a good idea, they have been known to use tap water despite what it may say on the bottle!

Owning a hydrometer is a complete waste with modern batteries. The only thing that evaporates is the distilled water, not the sulphuric acid. Suggest buying a small multimeter is a much better solution as it only takes a minute to check the battery voltage and you'll know if it is getting low before failure occurs. However, even new batteries can have terminal failure occasionally.

Edited February 27, 2006 by Anon999

[Bung]

I have left my Vigo at home while I am away working for two months and have had my wife start it every week for 10 minutes to keep the battery charged.

She told me last night that it had gone flat and can't start.

Does anyone know if a Vigo should charge while idling? I would have thought so. She said she also played music while charging but that should't worry it surely?

[scotsman]

I have left my Vigo at home while I am away working for two months and have had my wife start it every week for 10 minutes to keep the battery charged.

She told me last night that it had gone flat and can't start.

Does anyone know if a Vigo should charge while idling? I would have thought so. She said she also played music while charging but that should't worry it surely?

My wife did the same with my car and it did not work. The battery needs a lot more than 10 min a week to keep up its charge if you are gone that long.

[raro]

...and now for the TIT part of my battery story....

This morning I realized that the hood was a bit askew. On the left side it was higher up than on the right side. I quizzed my driver if he had an explanation for that and yes, sure! He opened the hood and it flipped open like a spring under tension. The new battery was slightly larger than the old one, didn't fit in the compartment and the metal clamp to hold it squeezed one of the waterinlets open.

According to my driver that is all totally normal and absolutely no problem. After all, the battery was 100 baht cheaper than the original replacement...and if you close the hood with enough power it will eventually snap in the lock...

[PeaceBlondie]

This thread is very informative. It appears the biggest factors in battery life are ambient temperature (very high in Thailand) and quality of design.

What about motorcycle batteries? Mine is now 2 years, 7 months old. It's the original Honda battery for a CBR150 (and they replaced it at the 1,000 km check because the first one was a dud!). I use my bike at least 1,000 km per month. It doesn't have a backup kickstarter. So, am I gonna be push-starting it soon, with a bad shoulder?

[elkangorito]

This thread is very informative. It appears the biggest factors in battery life are ambient temperature (very high in Thailand) and quality of design.

What about motorcycle batteries? Mine is now 2 years, 7 months old. It's the original Honda battery for a CBR150 (and they replaced it at the 1,000 km check because the first one was a dud!). I use my bike at least 1,000 km per month. It doesn't have a backup kickstarter. So, am I gonna be push-starting it soon, with a bad shoulder?

Hi Blondie,

Thais have this strange idea that using headlights etc, will reduce the life of the battery. This is utter rubbish. Consequently, you should use the stored energy in your battery as much as possible. This will help to prevent "battery memory", as batteries that are not discharged appropriately will eventually not hold their charge. Every few months or so, stop the engine of your bike & leave the headlight on. When the lights gets a bit dimmer (only do this at night when you can clearly notice a difference), get on your bike & go for a LONG RIDE (for at least as long as you had the headlight on whilst the engine was off) to re-charge the battery. This will help to preserve it's life. Under no circumstances should you allow your battery to go flat as this may result in a dead battery.

[PeaceBlondie]

Hey, el kangorito, let's not hide that great signature in small print:

...An individual who breaks a law that conscience tells him is unjust, and who willingly accepts the penalty of imprisonment in order to arouse the conscience of the community over its injustice, is in reality expressing the highest respect for the law.

Who said that?

Edited March 1, 2006 by PeaceBlondie

[rcalsop]

...and now for the TIT part of my battery story....

This morning I realized that the hood was a bit askew. On the left side it was higher up than on the right side. I quizzed my driver if he had an explanation for that and yes, sure! He opened the hood and it flipped open like a spring under tension. The new battery was slightly larger than the old one, didn't fit in the compartment and the metal clamp to hold it squeezed one of the waterinlets open.

According to my driver that is all totally normal and absolutely no problem. After all, the battery was 100 baht cheaper than the original replacement...and if you close the hood with enough power it will eventually snap in the lock...

I actualy nearly had the same experience on a visit to BQuick I asked for a replacement for the Honda Jazz and asked if they sold a sealed maintainance free battery . They informed me they did and was the same size but more expensive ,I gave the go ahead and foolishly went into the waiting area for a coffee after 10 minutes I walked back out and saw the plastic battery cover that is fitted to all the Jazzes on the floor infront of the car .Clue number one there was a problem ..as I walked to the car I eyeballed the battery and lowered my eyeline to view over the wing from the side the top of the battery was standing proud about 2 inches clue number 2 .

The fitter had the bonnet ( hood for the non brits ) in his hand and was just about to give it a firm slam shut . I had no time to think of the words to stop him so I immediately pushed my whole arm under the bonnet as it was on the way down . I stopped the bonnet from contacting the battery top and seriosly damaging the hinges body work etc .. The fitter thought I was crazy but the scene attracted the manager and supervisor who at first thought I was hurt ...actually a finger or just a hand would have hurt, the whole arm just absorbed the force with not a scratch . The end of the story was ,apologies from the super and the manager who by way of an explaination told me this was the second time in two weeks the same guy had made this mistake only last time he slammed the bonnet several times and badly dented the bonnet surface and the owner claimed for the repair .

I got a discount voucher the correct battery and apologies . The moral do not take your eyes off any work you are having done on your car if at all possible ... take nothing for granted even if paying more but why would a trained fitter make the same major error like that ?.The indications were obvious it did not fit !!!!!!. In future I will go to the Honda dealer for a genuine parts ( actually 70 baht cheaper )and their fitter will have more experience on Honda vehicles I hope

I should have posted this story earlier in this tread as a precautionary tale .

[elkangorito]

To Blondie, Martin Luther King Junior is where I acquired the quote. I couldn't fit his name due to 'number of characters' restriction.

To rcalsop, it appears that you were a victim of TIT. I prefer to think of this as a "different way of thinking". It is generally accepted that Thais do not generally apply "common sense" to many situations. My answer to this is to NOT get upset...simply expect this situation & as you say, supervise the situation. (I assume that you do not get upset about these things).

By the way, in the "engineering" world, there is no such thing as a maintenance free battery. Granted, these batteries do seem to not lose electrolyte (water) as quickly as standard batteries but at the end of the day, how does their performance stack up against other non-maintenace free batteries? In high ambient temperatures, not very good. Also, starting a car engine does very little to indicate the performance of a battery. Most people are only ever concerned about getting their vehicle started, so I suggest to buy the cheapest bloody battery that you can.

Battery performance & life is directly related to the following;

1) the ambient temperature in which it operates. The higher the ambient, the shorter the battery life & the worse the performance.

2) the quality of the replacement electrolyte. If it is NOT distilled water, impurities will shorten the battery life & degrade performance.

3) Specific Gravity. If an SG of between 1.2 to 1.3 is not maintained (1.25 for a lead/acid battery is ideal), the performance & life of the battery will be reduced. Buy yourself a "hydrometer" to test SG (very cheap).

4) Charge/discharge rates. Most car batteries are never really discharged. This leads to battery "memory", which will reduce the performance & life of the battery.

5) Distance of plates from the bottom of the battery casing. The greater the distance, the less chance of Lead Oxide (which forms as the battery is used) electrically 'shorting' the plates together.

Living in Thailand, I would certainly expect a high rate of changing the car/bike battery, due to ambient temperature. However, the life of a car/bike battery can be extended slightly if the above points are adhered to.

By the way, I am only speaking of a wet cell battery...36% sulphuric acid & water solution with lead plates.

Edited March 2, 2006 by elkangorito

[elkangorito]

In Japan cars are fitted with small batteries as standard, probably because cars are very cheap in Japan, and they do not tend to last too long. This is mainly due to the fact they are working near maximum capacity, that is amp/hours, therefore battery life is short. In the UK it is normal to fit a 60 amp/hr battery to a car with a 2 litre engine or to smaller engined high performance engined cars because the compression ratio in the engine is higher and therefore more energy is needed to spin the engine. This provides spare battery capacity so it is not fully loaded. However, another factor is a battery must have enough capacity to power the electronics and more importantly the ignition system which takes a LOT of current to produce a fat enough spark to start the engine. When the battery gets old it loses capacity and consequently may turn the engine over but does not possess enough energy to generate an ignition spark.

If you check the batteries on your cars they're probably 45 amp/hour capacity, hence short life. Another cause of battery failure is topping it up with anything other than distilled water. Letting a garage top it up is not such a good idea, they have been known to use tap water despite what it may say on the bottle!

Owning a hydrometer is a complete waste with modern batteries. The only thing that evaporates is the distilled water, not the sulphuric acid. Suggest buying a small multimeter is a much better solution as it only takes a minute to check the battery voltage and you'll know if it is getting low before failure occurs. However, even new batteries can have terminal failure occasionally.

I beg to differ.

Anon999 said, "However, another factor is a battery must have enough capacity to power the electronics and more importantly the ignition system which takes a LOT of current to produce a fat enough spark to start the engine."

None of this is true. The vehicle's charging system will & should, under normal & correct circumstances, provide the required current to supply the vehicle's accessories. As I previously stated, if you "overload" your vehicle's electrical system, you will notice a "dimming of the lights" at night, when you are switching on your accessories. Electrically speaking, if you have a 35 amp alternater in your vehicle, your total load must not exceed 35 amps. If your load is, for example 30 amps, this is more than adequate to ensure that your battery is charged whilst the engine is running. If you overload your vehicle's electrical system, a bigger battery is not the answer. The answer is a larger alternater to cope with the increased load &/or also to get your automotive electrical system checked by a reputable person.

I love this comment by Anon999, "

Owning a hydrometer is a complete waste with modern batteries. The only thing that evaporates is the distilled water, not the sulphuric acid."

This is the exact reason for using a Hydrometer. This device will tell tell you (amongst other things) if you are short of distilled water OR Acid. These things are critical to know for the life of a battery. Where the he ll did you get this weird idea? Not from an engineer, that's for sure!

For the unconvinced, I have attached a very good document (text) that was issued by the NRMA in Australia. All that they state is accurate & correct according to my (electrical engineering) view. If anyone requires definitive proof of this "argument", I'll be more than happy to reply.

I have left my Vigo at home while I am away working for two months and have had my wife start it every week for 10 minutes to keep the battery charged.

She told me last night that it had gone flat and can't start.

Does anyone know if a Vigo should charge while idling? I would have thought so. She said she also played music while charging but that should't worry it surely?

My wife did the same with my car and it did not work. The battery needs a lot more than 10 min a week to keep up its charge if you are gone that long.

scotsman has said it all.

As a rule of thumb, for every time you start your car, allow at least a 30 minute re-charge time (car not at idle for 30 mins. Idle will not necessarily charge a battery).

[raro]

Hey, el kangorito, let's not hide that great signature in small print:

...An individual who breaks a law that conscience tells him is unjust, and who willingly accepts the penalty of imprisonment in order to arouse the conscience of the community over its injustice, is in reality expressing the highest respect for the law.

Who said that?

indeed a brilliant statement! Also keen on knowing who said that...

[elkangorito]

Hey, el kangorito, let's not hide that great signature in small print:

...An individual who breaks a law that conscience tells him is unjust, and who willingly accepts the penalty of imprisonment in order to arouse the conscience of the community over its injustice, is in reality expressing the highest respect for the law.

Who said that?

indeed a brilliant statement! Also keen on knowing who said that...

Martin Luther King Junior...one of my favourite quoters.

[elkangorito]

Further to the misguided belief that Hydrometers are useless, water is produced during the battery's discharge cycle as such;

Sulphuric acid ionises in the water to form positive hydrogen ions & negative sulphate ions. Lead atoms leave both plates & combine with the sulphate ions to form lead sulphate. At the same time, ionised oxygen atoms from the lead peroxide, combine with the hydrogen ions to form water in the electrolyte.

This is the process of water production within a battery during discharge cycle.

A hydrometer can quickly tell you if you need more acid or more water. A "low" Specific Gravity" indicates the need for acid (below 1.2. Add 36% solution of Sulphuric Acid). A "high" Specific Gravity" indicates the need for water. Please bear in mind that a battery that operates in higher ambient temperatures (>25 degrees C) will suffer water evaporation somewhat quicker than in cooler climates. Nonetheless, "water production" within a battery is an actual process during the discharge cycle. Generally, water needs to be added more often to a battery that operates in hotter climates. Consequently, a hydrometer will tell you when you need to add either water or acid, in a very timely fashion.

A hydrometer is a very cheap & essential piece of equipment for maintaining your battery.

Edited March 3, 2006 by elkangorito

[rcalsop]

Further to the misguided belief that Hydrometers are useless, water is produced during the battery's discharge cycle as such;

Sulphuric acid ionises in the water to form positive hydrogen ions & negative sulphate ions. Lead atoms leave both plates & combine with the sulphate ions to form lead sulphate. At the same time, ionised oxygen atoms from the lead peroxide, combine with the hydrogen ions to form water in the electrolyte.

This is the process of water production within a battery during discharge cycle.

A hydrometer can quickly tell you if you need more acid or more water. A "low" Specific Gravity" indicates the need for acid (below 1.2. Add 36% solution of Sulphuric Acid). A "high" Specific Gravity" indicates the need for water. Please bear in mind that a battery that operates in higher ambient temperatures (>25 degrees C) will suffer water evaporation somewhat quicker than in cooler climates. Nonetheless, "water production" within a battery is an actual process during the discharge cycle. Generally, water needs to be added more often to a battery that operates in hotter climates. Consequently, a hydrometer will tell you when you need to add either water or acid, in a very timely fashion.

A hydrometer is a very cheap & essential piece of equipment for maintaining your battery.

Guys ..in context a dealer supplied battery 35 amp is between 800 -- 900 baht fitted , now we know it is a very limited life item here follow the locals automaticaly change it after about 14 months , it aint worth the hassel ! The normal service includes a battery water check just look at your engine after a service the good dealers all mark the items checked with a china graph pencil ..with a mark, a tick, or written OK both Honda and Toyota . After a week or so I go around and clean the check marks off ready for next time . I used to have hydrometers etc but now it ain`t t worth the effort or the hassel against the cost ...am I going soft /getting old or what ?

[elkangorito]

Guys ..in context a dealer supplied battery 35 amp is between 800 -- 900 baht fitted , now we know it is a very limited life item here follow the locals automaticaly change it after about 14 months , it aint worth the hassel ! The normal service includes a battery water check just look at your engine after a service the good dealers all mark the items checked with a china graph pencil ..with a mark, a tick, or written OK both Honda and Toyota . After a week or so I go around and clean the check marks off ready for next time . I used to have hydrometers etc but now it ain`t t worth the effort or the hassel against the cost ...am I going soft /getting old or what ?

rcalsop, what you say it perfectly ok...if everything IS perfect.

I never trust a dealer...'a pencil mark' is exactly that! A pencil mark! Most people can use a pencil & seeing a mark is no guarantee that something has been checked...especially if the "checking" happens on a Monday morning or a Friday afternoon.

Also, due to an 'automotive electrical' failure (not at all uncommon), your battery can be subject to either overcharging or undercharging. Both cases will quickly reduce the life of the battery. A monthly check with a hydrometer will help to detect a possible malfunction & could just prevent you from being stranded (electrically 'dead in the water') out in the middle of the sticks somewhere.

This advice only applies to those who wish to minimise the chances of being 'caught with their pants down'.

Edited March 4, 2006 by elkangorito

[Rigger]

So what effect does Thaliands humity have on dry cell batterys

[elkangorito]

So what effect does Thaliands humity have on dry cell batterys

Most dry cells are sealed because they do not produce gas as a by-product of the chemical reactions. Consequently, moisture cannot enter the dry cell.

The only possible effect that humidity can have on a dry cell is to corrode the outer casing.

[rcalsop]

Once again back to the battery subject and true to form I have had another immediate battery failure ,no warning , no lights left on ..just dead one morning . My Toyota Wish 18months old from new ,following all service recommendations and checks is the culprit . The car has recently been used on long journeys and gave absolutely no hint of impending doom . This has now convinced me the 14 to 18 month rule is valid ,now living in Malaysia I canvassed local friends and in general the figure here seems to be a couple of years ( 24 months ) .

For reference .....a call to the local tyre /battery specialist had a guy with us in minutes a quick test ,pronounced the battery dead gave a few suggestions for replacement we decided on a low maintainance 24 month guarenteed Century Battery ( an Australian Company ????) . The guy drove 30 minutes to another depot to get stock , returned fitted it and took away the old battery . total cost 170 Malaysian Ringit about 1700 Baht .

A little expensive but quick efficient and not a dirty hand insight .

[marshbags]

What advice regarding the disconnection of the battery leads on vehicles, mines an Isuzu Highlander

When leaving it static without being able to turn the engine over.

For and against please are appreciated.

I,ve just bought another battery after just over 2 years from new. ( It cost 1200 baht )

It went flat last time i went home ????? even though someone was giving it a turn over once a week.

I,m not sure if the security system could have been responsible for draining it off ???

marshbags

Edited March 20, 2007 by marshbags

[elkangorito]

Once again back to the battery subject and true to form I have had another immediate battery failure ,no warning , no lights left on ..just dead one morning . My Toyota Wish 18months old from new ,following all service recommendations and checks is the culprit . The car has recently been used on long journeys and gave absolutely no hint of impending doom . This has now convinced me the 14 to 18 month rule is valid ,now living in Malaysia I canvassed local friends and in general the figure here seems to be a couple of years ( 24 months ) .

For reference .....a call to the local tyre /battery specialist had a guy with us in minutes a quick test ,pronounced the battery dead gave a few suggestions for replacement we decided on a low maintainance 24 month guarenteed Century Battery ( an Australian Company ????) . The guy drove 30 minutes to another depot to get stock , returned fitted it and took away the old battery . total cost 170 Malaysian Ringit about 1700 Baht .

A little expensive but quick efficient and not a dirty hand insight .

Well designed batteries will give you little warning of impending failure. When battery technology was in it's formative years, batteries had a slow but noticeable decay in performance, which meant that you never got the full capacity from the battery over a course of time.

Generally, if a battery guarantee is 2 years, then expect a life of no more than 2 years. This figure will probably reduce if the battery is subject to higher ambient operating/storage temperatures because the 'local action' within the battery will be greater when the battery is not in use.

I'm not sure if Century is Australian but these batteries are common in Australia.

What advice regarding the disconnection of the battery leads on vehicles, mines an Isuzu Highlander

When leaving it static without being able to turn the engine over.

For and against please are appreciated.

I,ve just bought another battery after just over 2 years from new. ( It cost 1200 baht )

It went flat last time i went home ????? even though someone was giving it a turn over once a week.

I,m not sure if the security system could have been responsible for draining it off ???

marshbags

Disconnecting a battery on a modern 'electronic' vehicle may result in the loss of computer memory, which could mean that you may not be able to start the vehicle and/or you may have to 're-teach' it about load/idle functions (eg. V series commodore).

Disconnecting it will not do anything to save the battery, unless there is a significant leakage current somewhere in the vehicle to drain the battery. To decrease 'local action' (self discharge), the internal chemical processes can be slowed down by storing the battery in a very cool/cold dry place.

[Gary A]

My Nissan Frontier is a 2004 and the original battery has shown no signs of a problem. I have never had a battery simply die. They have always given me a warning. The day I get in my truck and it won't crank or cranks slowly, I'll go shopping for a new one. When a battery fails it is normally one cell that fails and that cell drains the rest as well. The battery will also show low voltage.

[lingling]

Factors that shorten battery life here:

1) heat

2) the BKK dust has a lot of metal and other conductive stuff in it, causing little power drains here and there over time

3) extensive idling while stuck in BKK traffic (can be solved by getting a bigger wheel for the alternator)

[Crossy]

Factors that shorten battery life here:

1) heat

2) the BKK dust has a lot of metal and other conductive stuff in it, causing little power drains here and there over time

3) extensive idling while stuck in BKK traffic (can be solved by getting a bigger wheel for the alternator)

1) Yes

2) Possibly

3) A correctly functioning alternator should be able to maintain charge at idle with the lights on but add your 400W stereo and it's a different story.

BTW if you want charging to start earlier you need a SMALLER pulley on the alternator or a BIGGER one on the crankshaft. Either carries the risk of overspeeding your alternator and the subsequent explosion of same on a fast run, and of course you then have a non-standard fan belt required.

Gary A. I've had several batteries just die on me in tropical locations, one morning it just won't do anything (once it wouldn't even open the doors). No sitting in traffic with the lights on etc. just didn't wake up in the morning. Only fix is replacement.

Edited March 20, 2007 by Crossy