Teak Oil Vs. Woodstain Vs.? In Bathroom

[siamdivers]

I have a whirlpool bath and we have just put some teak flooring around the base of the tub that we had left over from another project. I am trying to figure out what would be the best protective coating to use on it. I don't want it glossy as it will be slippery, but since it's in a bathroom, I want it to be mold and stain (dirt) resistant.

Some say teak oil is best, some say woodstain is best. The girls who work at HomePro say I should use colored woodstain (on beautiful teak? No thanks, but they have clear matt and that seems pretty good.)

Anyone had any luck with the Chaindrite brand? Or can anyone recommend a better brand? I supposed I could go to a ships chandlery and get something for a boat, but that's going to be pretty expensive. This Chaindrite stuff is 300-over baht a liter, which is more than I need and can apply it myself when I need to.

Is the Jotun any better than the Chaindrite? They only had the glossy Jotun in stock, but I'm sure I can find it somewhere else.

Thanks.

[sezze]

Don't ask the girls or boys from homepro or any other big shop as they do not know anything of what they sell .

http://www.dulux.co.th/ecatalog/cup/cuprinol.html . This is just one of the high quality products available . Decking stain or similar is specially made for outdoor use so this will do . For teak wood i would certainly use this .

[siamdivers]

Thanks, Sezze. This is going to be inside in a bathroom, not exposed to sunlight at all, but exposed to a lot of moisture. So stain is what you're suggesting. Cuprinol is the best brand then in your opinion? Thanks for your help.

[beechstreet]

We just applied the Chaindrite Teak oil to our teak floors (including the bathroom) and...so far so good. We chose the Chaindrite mainly out of convenience and I can't really speak to the long term qualities but splashes and drips stayed beaded up and don't seem to leave any staining behind. I like teak oil because it is very easy to apply (requires no skill or technique really) and the wood stays nice and matte. We applied a coating of the Chaindrite about a week after the wood installers applied their own "proprietary" teak oil. Put it on in the morning, buffed it with a dry rag in the evening, and buffed a few spots the next morning. Beautiful.

[siamdivers]

Beechstreet, thanks for the tip. I wonder if I can try the oil first and then if I don't like it or it starts to get stained, sand it a bit and then put the varnish on. I will ask my contractor, maybe he knows. With the varnish, from what I have read, you only need to apply it every year or so. On the boating community websites, they say that the teak oil has to be applied very often. But I'm sure that's because they are exposing their teak to the elements.

Probably best to do a sample I suppose.

[sezze]

What do boat owners use on their teak deck ? I am sure not a varnish ... A oil is non slippery surface , wet or not wet and it keeps the timber free from rot .

[siamdivers]

Teak wont rot which is why it is used widely on boat decks (but getting harder to source, this teak grown here and other places is not the quality they want, some guys around here import it from Burma and Cambodia.) Link

The bare wood lasts forever, it's just a matter of whether one likes the look of the grey or if they want to use oil sometimes to give it that rich look or deal with varnish. Like the article says above, stacks of books have been written...

[siamdivers]

If anyone is interested, I ended up using TOA flat clear varnish. Came out a little dark but it is not slippery in the least, so success of sorts. I wish it hadn't darkened the wood, it doesn't look like teak anymore.

Image

[thatguy]

Sounds like you are worried about water on the wood. I would think oil would repel water well, and is easily re-applied. It is my understanding that "teak oil" is oil for use on teak, not oil derived from teak, usually light mineral oil.

There was a thread here some time ago about preserving teak house siding. an extensive reply from a member described using diesel crankcase oil mixed with diesel fuel. I tried some test pieces, and found they stank of fuel for weeks. Substituting turpentine for the diesel fuel solved that problem. I have used it many times since, and it only takes a day or so to completely absorb. the more turpentine in the mix ratio, the quicker.

Good luck, sounds like you have a high use/abuse area. The easier to redo the better

edit Oh, it's done, missed that, looks good

[siamdivers]

Thanks for the tip, thatguy. Yes, non-slip was my main worry. The good thing about what I ended up doing is that I wont have to do it again for probably two years. If I used oil (yes, light oil, several things are available, but they call it 'teak oil' on the can. It darkened the wood too much, but it's bullet proof, and not slippery in the least and the water beads off of it nicely. My living room was varnished or urethaned, something like that, so it's bright and shiny and shows the true color of the wood better. But I'll tell you when it's wet it's like an ice skating rink. When I redo it again in the next few years I'll probably go with the flat finish as it's safer. I've had people step on it coming out of the rain and almost go down on their backs. No good as I get older. :-)

Your solutions sounds interesting too, I'm sure the wood looks better that way. Anyway, mine is not a high use area, it's a Jacuzzi tub my wife wanted put in which she has used exactly three times in three years. Hmm.

[mogandave]

I like linseed oil for teak

[Teak]

Use the following :

40 % turpentine

30% boiled linseed oil

30 % tung oil (aka China wood oil)

3 or 4 coats. Apply with a rag and let each coat dry for at least 24 hours. Rub well.

Boiled linseed and tung oil are drying oils. Any 'teak oil' is petroleum distillates with maybe some linseed oil.

regards...Island Teak

[lovelomsak]

I feel doing nothing to it maybe the best. But not sure about this.I have been in a few old home in urban Thailand. They had beautiful shiny wood floors. I ask one owner what they did to make them shine so well. He said he just let time and useage smooth out the wood and it became harder and shone more. Donot know if he was telling the truth or not. His floors shone , and didnot appear slippery.

[trogers]

What do boat owners use on their teak deck ? I am sure not a varnish ... A oil is non slippery surface , wet or not wet and it keeps the timber free from rot .

Wood decks of boats are not placed against a concrete floor that may have ponds of water penetrating the deck from below, and its an area no frequent oiling can reach.

Why use wood?

[wimpy]

I'd probably go with urethane. 680 baht a gallon for Turbo brand at Global House. You can add a matting agent to remove the gloss.

[seajae]

painting is my trade and oil is your best bet. Stain will penetrate and colour the wood but not offer any protection, it needs to be coated with a clear finish(polyurethane etc) as this is what it is designed for, it is not a stand alone finish where as oil is a stand alone finish. I am not up to date with what is available in Thailand but I know exactly what I would have done in Australia and that is to use an oil. It must be re done every so often to maintain the water repellant properties too, depending on the use maybe every 12 months to 2 years.

Dennis

[seajae]

on the same subject, if you just go for a clear finish(poly urethane etc)you will find that unless the timber is good quality and been prepared correctly the coating will eventually start to lift off the timber, even over stain you can end up with this problem due to the high moisture content of the room, it only takes one tiny entry point for moisture and it will milk off and that is the end of it. Oil will penetrate all the surface area and into the wood a few mm so it forms a good barrier against any moisture penetration.

Dennis

[Mousehound]

Use the following :

40 % turpentine

30% boiled linseed oil

30 % tung oil (aka China wood oil)

3 or 4 coats. Apply with a rag and let each coat dry for at least 24 hours. Rub well.

Boiled linseed and tung oil are drying oils. Any 'teak oil' is petroleum distillates with maybe some linseed oil.

regards...Island Teak

This post is quite right. This is the best finish in my opinion. The Tung oil component makes a very hardy and beautiful finish. Keep it off your hands though. Several thin coats are better than fewer thick coats.

You may be able to buy Tung oil - already mixed. I like Cabotts. Linseed oil would be my next choice as it is cheap - environmentally sound and safe to use. Water on smooth oiled surface means slippery surface - you may need some form of non slip matt as well.

[seajae]

Use the following :

40 % turpentine

30% boiled linseed oil

30 % tung oil (aka China wood oil)

3 or 4 coats. Apply with a rag and let each coat dry for at least 24 hours. Rub well.

Boiled linseed and tung oil are drying oils. Any 'teak oil' is petroleum distillates with maybe some linseed oil.

regards...Island Teak

This post is quite right. This is the best finish in my opinion. The Tung oil component makes a very hardy and beautiful finish. Keep it off your hands though. Several thin coats are better than fewer thick coats.

You may be able to buy Tung oil - already mixed. I like Cabotts. Linseed oil would be my next choice as it is cheap - environmentally sound and safe to use. Water on smooth oiled surface means slippery surface - you may need some form of non slip matt as well.

Hate to say thgis but linseed oil will attract mould, when you see a house with timber wall that are really black you can usually take that it was treated with linseed oil, it is a real no no in Australia or anywhere else as moisture/humidity has a bad effect on it. You need to use quality oil and not go cheap or it will backfire, after over 40 years in the trade I know what does and doesnt work.

Dennis

[luudee]

Slightly different question for the experts:

I used Teak Oil on my garden teak furniture. I would reapply it one to twice a year, depending on how the furniture looks ...

The biggest problem I had was the buildup of residue, where skin touches the wood. Sweat and body oils would accumulate and leave black marks. It seems I can't find anything to clean it. Have to take fine sandpaper and work the wood down ...

Any suggestions/ideas how to avoid that without using polyurethane to cover the wood ?

Thanks,

rudi

[seajae]

Slightly different question for the experts:

I used Teak Oil on my garden teak furniture. I would reapply it one to twice a year, depending on how the furniture looks ...

The biggest problem I had was the buildup of residue, where skin touches the wood. Sweat and body oils would accumulate and leave black marks. It seems I can't find anything to clean it. Have to take fine sandpaper and work the wood down ...

Any suggestions/ideas how to avoid that without using polyurethane to cover the wood ?

Thanks,

rudi

Hi Rudi, the best stuff is oxallic acid, you get it in powder form and add it to water then apply it(you can brush it or apply it with a sponge) then wash it off. I usually apply it then leave it on for a while to soften it up then blast it off with a water blaster(or scrub with brush/steel wool using clean water), not sure where you would get it here though but it is great for dis-coloured timber. Failing that turps can also remove body fats or even sugar soap in a potent mix.

Dennis

[luudee]

Thanks Dennis ! I'll try to find that stuff locally !

rudi

PS: Any of you local guys, if you ever heard of oxallic acid and know where to get it in Thailand/Pattay, please post !

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid

[seajae]

Another product is tri-cleanium, it is pretty potent too but might be even harder to get, pre mixed oxallic acid was sold in Australia as well, it was called Dekswood but was way over priced. I did pack a container of oxallic acid in my boxes but that was one of the things that dissapeared at customs along with several other items, I was going to use it on the house myself.

Dennis

[luudee]

Dennis,

any of-the-shelf house hold cleaners that might do the trick ?

I have a pool, so I have hydrochloric acid .... :-)

I looked at Wiki, but couldn't see any obvious common uses for

oxalic acid that would direct me to a local shop ...

Well, the hunt is still on ;-)

Thanks for all the help !

rudi

[seajae]

Dennis,

any of-the-shelf house hold cleaners that might do the trick ?

I have a pool, so I have hydrochloric acid .... :-)

I looked at Wiki, but couldn't see any obvious common uses for

oxalic acid that would direct me to a local shop ...

Well, the hunt is still on ;-)

Thanks for all the help !

rudi

sugar soap maybe, turps(turpentine) will remove body fats, just use it with fine steel wool then wash with hot soapy water to remove any residue. Mate I am trying to find several products over here so I can re paint our place, not easy to do at all.