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Best Wireless Modem/router For Small Office?


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Posted

Hi!

I have a relatively small office with a TOT ADSL connection. We have a D-Link 2640B wireless modem/router, and it is very unstable. Users often cannot connect via wireless, and we have to reboot it all the time so they can connect.

So, can anyone reccomend a good wirelss modem/router available in Bangkok that wil support, say, 15 to 20 people connected at any given time? I'm willing to spend the money, but want to make sure its a good one.

Also, where is the best place to go to shop and buy good routers?

Thanks for any advice!!!

T

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Posted

I heard that many people have the same problem, for home users adsl/router combo is a good option, but it's better let the TOT router as an adsl modem only (Bridge Mode) and use a router wifi as Gregory suggest

I like the Cisco Linksys brand but no reference about models

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Posted

I would agree with both the above posts.

15-20 users is a big load for 1 little device to handle dsl modulation, routing/NAT and wifi. If you really want stability, separate them out by keeping your Dlink for ADSL only (in bridge mode) then an ASUS router (with wifi disabled) and then another ASUS router for wifi only. If you do this, you will never have to reboot again.

Whatever brand of router you buy, they are only as good as the chipset (Broadcom, Atheros etc) and the amount of memory they have. If you look at the DD-WRT link below you will see that ASUS normally have a high specification - compared to the price. Linksys on the other hand, have nice shiny plastic cases and low spec.

http://www.dd-wrt.co...pported_Devices

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have found the Cisco/Linksys E3000 excellent, available in Thailand for about 4200 baht.

Get asus rt-n66u for 5800 baht. it has very fast cpu and ram. 15-20 users not a problem.

I have found the Cisco/Linksys E3000 excellent, available in Thailand for about 4200 baht.

Didn't mean to rubbish Linksys products. I've had many of them over the years and they are fine. Just that they aren't very good value for money in Thailand.

If you compare the E3000 to an Asus RT-N16, they have identical chipsets (Broadcom BCM4718@480) but the ASUS has double the RAM (128MB vs 64MB) & 4 times the Flash memory (32 vs 8). Also 2 USB ports instead of 1.

The RT-N16 costs about THB3000.

Being a 'performance' oriented guy, I am looking to choose a fast router from one of the models recommended above but I am learning that in addition to other factors, different routers excel at different speed bands. Do the TOT & 3BB internet modem/routers use either the 5Mhz or 2.4MHz speed band? Or does the speed of their signal fluctuate?

Posted

I have a regular simultaneous connection issue at home.

I use a wifi router supplied by TRUE, I never though ( I'm negate in IT) it could be a problem of the router, I basically blamed TRUE for low standard signal but maybe thanks to this OP I realized I can solve this problem more easily than I ever thought, just put my hand in the pocketsmile.png .

Any suggestion for a place where to buy a new router and even get proper info to configure it?

Thanks

Giampiero

Posted

I have a regular simultaneous connection issue at home.

I use a wifi router supplied by TRUE, I never thought ( I'm negate in IT) it could be a problem of the router, I basically blamed TRUE for low standard signal but maybe thanks to this OP I realized I can solve this problem more easily than I ever thought, just put my hand in the pocketsmile.png .

Any suggestion for a place where to buy a new router and even get proper info to configure it?

Thanks

Giampiero

Firstly, if I were you, I would want to 'specifically' identify the problem and its cause, computers and their components can be technical. True issues its users WiFi modem/routers?

If you would list the specific symptoms of the problems you are having, more than likely the computer savvy guys on this forum can give you excellent remedies.

To buy my WiFi router, I am going to start looking at Power Buy and on the IT section at the mall.

post-28626-0-93320000-1349412857_thumb.j

Posted

The configuration in the diagram shows the setup for a WiFi internet using only a laptop.

How would I configure a setup that includes: A desktop computer that is hard wired (directly connected) to the internet router/modem, a (stand-alone) WiFi router and a wireless laptop (to access the internet)? Would this configuration also allow the sharing of files/data between the (non-wireless) desktop and the wireless laptop or would this require a different setup configuration?

post-28626-0-21867600-1349415951_thumb.j

Posted

I have found the Cisco/Linksys E3000 excellent, available in Thailand for about 4200 baht.

I used to be a fan of Linksys products (great for OpenWRT), but not after I bought E3000 to my home office.

That model have / had overheating problem, which at first caused it to reboot quite often and then finally the whole thing did not respond to anything anymore.

I was not the only one with the problem.

https://www.google.com/search?q=cisco+e3000+overheating

Posted

I have found the Cisco/Linksys E3000 excellent, available in Thailand for about 4200 baht.

I used to be a fan of Linksys products (great for OpenWRT), but not after I bought E3000 to my home office.

That model have / had overheating problem, which at first caused it to reboot quite often and then finally the whole thing did not respond to anything anymore.

I was not the only one with the problem.

https://www.google.c...000 overheating

That's how it goes with all components ..... we just have to point out the problem-prone models as this Linksys E3000 looks to be.

Then again, and what I see is true of 'good' companies, Linksys seems to have bounced back with its E4000 v.2 model which seems to be top rated.

Posted

Being a 'performance' oriented guy, I am looking to choose a fast router from one of the models recommended above but I am learning that in addition to other factors, different routers excel at different speed bands. Do the TOT & 3BB internet modem/routers use either the 5Mhz or 2.4MHz speed band? Or does the speed of their signal fluctuate?

If you use the default TOT, true modem/router in a bridge mode it will work only as a modem, not as wifi access point

But the speed in the routers trough wifi it's like the weather...

The 5Mhz or 2.4MHz speed band it only about the wifi channels and only represent and improvement if in your area have so much Wifi G (54Mbps) since the 5MHZ channels are only allowed for Wifi N (max 150Mbps in 20Mhz width).

But the measure that improve the speed it's the channel widths

802.11n, unlike B and G, allows to different channel widths. Both 802.11b and 802.11g have fixed 20MHz channels. For 802.11n, the default channel is 20Mhz, which allows for a transmission rate of 150Mbps. But on devices that support it, you can have wider channels, such as 40MHz (300 MBps), 60 MHz (450 MBps) and 80MHz (600MBps). In order to have wider channels, you need adapters on BOTH SIDES that support the wide channels, and you need to have plenty of available bandwidth. This means being in a place where the

Check this image for understanding the channel vs. channel width in 2.4 Mhz per 20Mhz (default in wifi 802.11G and 802.11N)

post-160900-0-12054500-1349423285_thumb.

Another thing to have in mind is that the Max speed it's for all the connection, not per WIFI client, so if you have 4 Client the max speed should be 150Mbps/4 = 37 Mbps and this could be lower if you have one Wifi client that use wifi G, the max speed in the best case should be 54Mbps/4=13Mbps but lower if you have more wifi around in the same Channels, plus Electromagnetic interferences and harmonics from lower frequencies means lower speed.

Posted

Netgear DGND-3700.

Not only Dual band Wireless N, but you can plug a USB hard drive straight into it which can be shared by those connected. A cheap and cheerful NAS.

Posted

I have a regular simultaneous connection issue at home.

I use a wifi router supplied by TRUE, I never thought ( I'm negate in IT) it could be a problem of the router, I basically blamed TRUE for low standard signal but maybe thanks to this OP I realized I can solve this problem more easily than I ever thought, just put my hand in the pocketsmile.png .

Any suggestion for a place where to buy a new router and even get proper info to configure it?

Thanks

Giampiero

Firstly, if I were you, I would want to 'specifically' identify the problem and its cause, computers and their components can be technical. True issues its users WiFi modem/routers?

If you would list the specific symptoms of the problems you are having, more than likely the computer savvy guys on this forum can give you excellent remedies.

To buy my WiFi router, I am going to start looking at Power Buy and on the IT section at the mall.

I have a wireless modem/router, a desktop computer wired connected and a laptop wifi connected.

When I'm using the desktop I basically get internet connection but once switch on the laptop I loosing the internet connection on the desktop, or become so slow which is impossible to simply open any web page.

This issue it's often solved just switching off the modem/router and restart it again, but sometimes this is not enough.

The TRUE technician came to verify this problem, told me that maybe the transformer of the modem/router it's going to supply less power/tension than standard value i have no idea if this diagnosis could be get as valid one, anyway he suggested to buy another one but not from TRUEgiggle.gif

Giampiero

Posted

ASUS DSL-N55U

Whatever you buy make sure it has N 300Mbps WiFi.

Stay away from Zyxel as many models have a low limit on the simultaneous connections.

if Zyxel it's a problem I have it, I just checked the box, I will replace it as soon as possible, thank you for all suggestions I found here.

Giampiero

Posted

Cisco Systems Linksys. Ours works flawlessly , and has never over-heated. We have left it on for up to two weeks without rebooting it. Perfect connection every time. Can't say enough good things about it.

Posted

Most people here seem to be recommending WiFi Routers, without an integrated DSL modem - the OP appears to have an all-in-one unit currently (ADSL modem, WiFi AP, multi-port ethernet router) - and just using any old device as an ADSL modem in bridging mode.

Are there any concerns that the ADSL modem can both handle a variety of ADSL types, perhaps with challenging line characteristics, and be able to forward an adequate PPS rate? Some of these units look interesting, especially the Asus RT-N16, but I would be concerned that the ADSL modem then becomes the "weakest link"? And are people generally recommending that the OP keep the D-Link DSL 2640B in the network as a DSL modem and Bridge?

This past week I installed an Asus DSL-N12U (ADSL modem, WiFi AP, 4-port etrernet router, with USB for a printer or USB 3G modem for fall-back) on a True 10/1 ADSL line. I think the customer paid ~ 1,900 baht for it. The unit seems to be working quite well - I had to update the firmware in order to use specific DNS servers - it is on a decent line so actual rates are 11/1. The USB print sharing works - I did not try the USB modem option as it was not required. The UI/management system is very, very nice with great access to stats, logs, etc. You can also create multiple SSIDs, and throttle/control users.

Posted

What is PPS rate?

I guess the network needs defines of the hardware what is good for the home or office.

I got Cisco E3000 as it was one of the few on the markets which had gigabit ethernet. I wanted this to be able to copy and handle files fast enough on my LAN. Gibabit ethernet can transfer about 100MBps which is quite equal what traditional hard drives on my NAS can handle.

Posted

Most people here seem to be recommending WiFi Routers, without an integrated DSL modem - the OP appears to have an all-in-one unit currently (ADSL modem, WiFi AP, multi-port ethernet router) - and just using any old device as an ADSL modem in bridging mode.

Yes because apart from the stability benefits of isolating the ADSL function, many prefer to use 3rd party firmware like DD-WRT or Tomato and they don't support ADSL or devices with ADSL built in.

Are there any concerns that the ADSL modem can both handle a variety of ADSL types, perhaps with challenging line characteristics, and be able to forward an adequate PPS rate? Some of these units look interesting, especially the Asus RT-N16, but I would be concerned that the ADSL modem then becomes the "weakest link"? And are people generally recommending that the OP keep the D-Link DSL 2640B in the network as a DSL modem and Bridge?

Though I'll likely be flamed for saying so, DLink is actually my first choice to use as a bridged ADSL modem. That's partly because they are cheap (sub 1K) and readily available in Thailand but mainly because in my experience in bridged mode they provide a bulletproof ADSL sync. I understand your concern about it being the "weakest link" because DLink's don't have a great reputation as all in one routers but I have 3 of them on both TOT & TRUE lines and they never (really never) drop the ADSL sync.

Any recent DLink will support all ADSL modulation types including ADSL2+ (annex M). They should sync at about 20% higher than the ISP's package speed and the ADSL statistics page will show you not only the actual sync speed but also the "attainable" speed which it has calculated from SNR & line attenuation. That's useful because then you can be pretty sure that the speed you are getting is limited only by the DSLAM not by poor line conditions.

Posted

I got Cisco E3000 as it was one of the few on the markets which had gigabit ethernet. I wanted this to be able to copy and handle files fast enough on my LAN. Gibabit ethernet can transfer about 100MBps which is quite equal what traditional hard drives on my NAS can handle.

This is a good point because most 802.11n devices currently on the market only support 10/100 LAN. It's all well & good having a 300Mbps wireless connection but that's pretty useless when your LAN connection is limited to 100Mbps. More & more are coming to market now with Gigabit LAN but they cost a bit more than the basic units.

Posted

Get asus rt-n66u for 5800 baht. it has very fast cpu and ram. 15-20 users not a problem.

Can you tell me where I can buy an Asus RT-n66 router?

I am also looking for an Asus RT-n56 and a Linksys E4200 v.2 router.

Yes because apart from the stability benefits of isolating the ADSL function, many prefer to use 3rd party firmware like DD-WRT or Tomato and they don't support ADSL or devices with ADSL built in.

.... any recent DLink will support all ADSL modulation types including ADSL2+ (annex M). They should sync at about 20% higher than the ISP's package speed and the ADSL statistics page will show you not only the actual sync speed but also the "attainable" speed which it has calculated from SNR & line attenuation. That's useful because then you can be pretty sure that the speed you are getting is limited only by the DSLAM not by poor line conditions.

Can you list the link to the ADSL statics page. Does it calculate the line speed in real time?

Posted

For a small office, i can heartily recommend a Draytek Vigor 2600 (i think?).

Smashing router with wifi, also has VPN and VoIP settings - some models come with two RJ11 sockets for connection back to head office.......

Posted

Get asus rt-n66u for 5800 baht. it has very fast cpu and ram. 15-20 users not a problem.

Can you tell me where I can buy an Asus RT-n66 router?

I am also looking for an Asus RT-n56 and a Linksys E4200 v.2 router.

Yes because apart from the stability benefits of isolating the ADSL function, many prefer to use 3rd party firmware like DD-WRT or Tomato and they don't support ADSL or devices with ADSL built in.

.... any recent DLink will support all ADSL modulation types including ADSL2+ (annex M). They should sync at about 20% higher than the ISP's package speed and the ADSL statistics page will show you not only the actual sync speed but also the "attainable" speed which it has calculated from SNR & line attenuation. That's useful because then you can be pretty sure that the speed you are getting is limited only by the DSLAM not by poor line conditions.

You can buy the ASUS RT-N66 Router at Pantip Plaza Pratunam or IT Mall Fortune Town.

Can you list the link to the ADSL statics page. Does it calculate the line speed in real time?

Posted

Mine is a home phone line and have used D-link and Lynksys but find TP-Link has been much better - especially at reconnecting after a sync loss. It also runs cool (unlike the others) with heavy usage.

Posted

Asus rt-n66u is 5800 baht in network 97, fortune town shopping mall.

Thanks .... I'm headed there in a few weeks!

For a small office, i can heartily recommend a Draytek Vigor 2600 (i think?).

Smashing router with wifi, also has VPN and VoIP settings - some models come with two RJ11 sockets for connection back to head office.......

Thanks, this router does have a lot of the features and though I am only starting the most basic home LAN with wireless, I am looking for a wireless router to be Wireless N or AC, DD-Wrt or Tomato flashable and have NTFS HDD, Bit Torrent and VPN support.

I got Cisco E3000 as it was one of the few on the markets which had gigabit Ethernet. I wanted this to be able to copy and handle files fast enough on my LAN. Gibabit ethernet can transfer about 100MBps which is quite equal what traditional hard drives on my NAS can handle.

This is a good point because most 802.11n devices currently on the market only support 10/100 LAN. It's all well & good having a 300Mbps wireless connection but that's pretty useless when your LAN connection is limited to 100Mbps. More & more are coming to market now with Gigabit LAN but they cost a bit more than the basic units.

Having an Atheros AR9002WB -1NG Wireless Network card (10/100/1000 LAN?) in my laptop, in 'general', using a dual wireless N router in Thailand, are the 150Mbps or 300Mbps connection rates achievable? Are there any router operating issues when using 2.4 MHz or 5 MHz channels?

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