Best Wireless Modem/router For Small Office?

[Ahnsahn]

Mine is a home phone line and have used D-link and Lynksys but find TP-Link has been much better - especially at reconnecting after a sync loss. It also runs cool (unlike the others) with heavy usage.

What are the models of your Linksys and TP-Link routers?

I have a TOT home phone line, and a separate 3BB internet line. Why is it(?) necessary to have a separate land (home) phone line in order to have this 3BB connection?

What are 'sync' losses?

[Dork]

Asus rt-n66u is 5800 baht in network 97, fortune town shopping mall.

That's good value from my point of view.

I've never tried this model but hardware wise they are very powerful so I would suspect that it will have good performance.

[Dork]

Can you list the link to the ADSL statics page. Does it calculate the line speed in real time?

The GUI is quite different between various DLink models so I can't give you the exact page link without knowing the model. However you will find it if you dig around a bit. It will be something like Device info/statistics/ADSL.

The line speed (or sync speed) between your modem and the DSLAM is fixed each time a connection is made. It usually won't vary unless there is a change in the line conditions.

[ttnice30]

Mine is a home phone line and have used D-link and Lynksys but find TP-Link has been much better - especially at reconnecting after a sync loss. It also runs cool (unlike the others) with heavy usage.

What are the models of your Linksys and TP-Link routers?

I have a TOT home phone line, and a separate 3BB internet line. Why is it(?) necessary to have a separate land (home) phone line in order to have this 3BB connection?

What are 'sync' losses?

Seems to me that 3BB has a direct connection to the Internet compare to TOT which needs to go through a normal telephone line (ADSL). This is why 3BB Internet is quicker than TOT Internet btw.

[lopburi3]

Mine is a home phone line and have used D-link and Lynksys but find TP-Link has been much better - especially at reconnecting after a sync loss. It also runs cool (unlike the others) with heavy usage.

What are the models of your Linksys and TP-Link routers?

I have a TOT home phone line, and a separate 3BB internet line. Why is it(?) necessary to have a separate land (home) phone line in order to have this 3BB connection?

What are 'sync' losses?

TP link is model TD-W8960N and believe the Linksys was WAG320N (or looks the same but think was cheaper model but not sure where it is to check)

[Ahnsahn]

Mine is a home phone line and have used D-link and Lynksys but find TP-Link has been much better - especially at reconnecting after a sync loss. It also runs cool (unlike the others) with heavy usage.

What are the models of your Linksys and TP-Link routers?

I have a TOT home phone line, and a separate 3BB internet line. Why is it(?) necessary to have a separate land (home) phone line in order to have this 3BB connection?

What are 'sync' losses?

Seems to me that 3BB has a direct connection to the Internet compare to TOT which needs to go through a normal telephone line (ADSL). This is why 3BB Internet is quicker than TOT Internet btw.

My 3BB connection does come through a R11 phone jack line - Go figure!?

TP link is model TD-W8960N and believe the Linksys was WAG320N (or looks the same but think was cheaper model but not sure where it is to check)

I can't find any speed ratings for these 2 routers but they seem to have good quality chips!

[lopburi3]

My issue is active phone line with several extensions that sometimes unsync modem when used and the D-Link and Linksys most often did not reconnect in a timely manner. Have had far fewer disconnects and almost always recurrent within a minute or two with the TP-link.

Sync is what both modems (each end) must achieve to talk (pass information) with each other. When they lose it they have to go through the tone process again to achieve.

[Ahnsahn]

My issue is active phone line with several extensions that sometimes unsync modem when used and the D-Link and Linksys most often did not reconnect in a timely manner. Have had far fewer disconnects and almost always recurrent within a minute or two with the TP-link.

Sync is what both modems (each end) must achieve to talk (pass information) with each other. When they lose it they have to go through the tone process again to achieve.

I 'Kowl-Jai' sync losses now ..... I was thinking it was another technical thing that I had to learn while it essentially is 'line disconnections'.

Your situation sounds like one that should be resolvable and a condition you shouldn't have to live with.

Why don't you post all the relevant specs of your system/connection setup so the guys on this forum can be able to identify and rectify it!

Edited October 9, 2012 by Ahnsahn

[ttnice30]

My 3BB connection does come through a R11 phone jack line - Go figure!?

OK. I get your point.

[Dork]

Mine is a home phone line and have used D-link and Lynksys but find TP-Link has been much better - especially at reconnecting after a sync loss. It also runs cool (unlike the others) with heavy usage.

What are the models of your Linksys and TP-Link routers?

I have a TOT home phone line, and a separate 3BB internet line. Why is it(?) necessary to have a separate land (home) phone line in order to have this 3BB connection?

What are 'sync' losses?

Seems to me that 3BB has a direct connection to the Internet compare to TOT which needs to go through a normal telephone line (ADSL). This is why 3BB Internet is quicker than TOT Internet btw.

Technically there is no reason why ADSL is or isn't on the same line as the phone, rather it is commercial reasons. TOT and TRUE are both phone providers and ISP's whereas 3BB is only an ISP so they can only offer "naked ADSL" which is still transmitted over an ordinary copper pair. As long as the cabling is done properly it doesn't make any difference to the quality of the ADSL signal whether there is a phone connected or not because they use completely different frequencies.

[lomatopo]

As long as the cabling is done properly it doesn't make any difference to the quality of the ADSL signal whether there is a phone connected or not because they use completely different frequencies.

http://www.pattayada...ion-in-pattaya/

[Dork]

As long as the cabling is done properly it doesn't make any difference to the quality of the ADSL signal whether there is a phone connected or not because they use completely different frequencies.

http://www.pattayada...ion-in-pattaya/

Yes, it's quite amazing that things work as well as they do.

[Ahnsahn]

Asus rt-n66u is 5800 baht in network 97, fortune town shopping mall.

That's good value from my point of view.

Speaking of that time worn idiom: 'Location, location, location ....', alas, there are no Asus (or any other top rated) WiFi router models to be found in my area's IT mall or Central Plaza 'puter stores - the mediocre (speed) Buffalo Airstation N600 Dual Band on sale at Power Buy is the 'pick-of-the-liter' of WiFi router cards here!

It's on to Network 97, Fortune Town for me!

Though it probably wont be relevant to Thailand for a long time(?) - I.E., they're still squabbling over 3g start up in a 4g world - some new routers are now being sold with the new 'Wireless AC' designation, replacing 'Wireless N', (even though a standard 'AC' frequency infrastructure hasn't been implemented as of this date.)

Edited October 11, 2012 by Ahnsahn

[Ahnsahn]

.... (even though a standard 'AC' frequency infrastructure hasn't been implemented as of this date.)

I meant to type: (even though standard 'AC' devices - other than routers - haven't been implemented as of this date.)

[trajan]

complete router newbie question...

( a ) I have True internet over my TOT phone line (supposedly 10mbps).

( b ) I have plugged the phone line into a Linksys WAG320n router (which sends out wireless wifi signal for my home use) as well as connects to my laptop with a ethernet? cable.

( c ) I recently got a Asus RT N66u router (not regular phone line connectable) as a very nice present.

( d ) I disconnected my Linksys router from my laptop and connected my Asus router to my Linkysy router with an ethernet cable.

( e ) I then connected my Asus router to my laptop.

The internet connection on my laptop (and also wireless wifi internet connections to my Apple TV pods around the house and to my tablet and smartphones) seem faster, but Im not sure if Im imagining that...

Does the above sound correct? or is it totally inefficient & not recommended?

many thanks!

[luwahn]

Asus rt-n66u is 5800 baht in network 97, fortune town shopping mall.order

You may be able to order this card online!

[Ahnsahn]

Asus rt-n66u is 5800 baht in network 97, fortune town shopping mall.order

You may be able to order this card online!

Thanks for the tip! It would be real cool if I could have it quickly delivered ....

complete router newbie question...

( a ) I have True internet over my TOT phone line (supposedly 10mbps).

( b ) I have plugged the phone line into a Linksys WAG320n router (which sends out wireless wifi signal for my home use) as well as connects to my laptop with a ethernet? cable.

( c ) I recently got a Asus RT N66u router (not regular phone line connectable) as a very nice present.

( d ) I disconnected my Linksys router from my laptop and connected my Asus router to my Linkysy router with an ethernet cable.

( e ) I then connected my Asus router to my laptop.

The internet connection on my laptop (and also wireless wifi internet connections to my Apple TV pods around the house and to my tablet and smartphones) seem faster, but Im not sure if Im imagining that...

Does the above sound correct? or is it totally inefficient & not recommended?

many thanks!

First, congratulations on your cool Asus router! .... I'm drooling with envy here!

With your TOT internet, it's going to make interesting reading what 'those-who-know' have to say about your setup.

I would like to know their reasoning about:

1) From this newbie's perspective, with the Asus being by far the faster of the two routers, it seems that you have it correct, (pending device menu inter-face settings), because:

1) The laptop is getting the fastest possible internet connection via wire connection (as opposed to the 'relatively' slower wireless connection)(?)

2) If the Linksys router is setup correctly, could not its 'wireless' mode (to devices with the slower Wireless G designated speed), be 'isolated' so that the Asus signal to the laptop (as well as to the Linksys, technically speaking), is at the Wireless N speed and isn't reduced (by the lower speed Wireless G TV, pod devices)?

3) Did you flash your Asus with the better DD-Wrt program?

Edited October 11, 2012 by Ahnsahn

[trajan]

Asus rt-n66u is 5800 baht in network 97, fortune town shopping mall.order

You may be able to order this card online!

Thanks for the tip! It would be real cool if I could have it quickly delivered ....

complete router newbie question...

( a ) I have True internet over my TOT phone line (supposedly 10mbps).

( b ) I have plugged the phone line into a Linksys WAG320n router (which sends out wireless wifi signal for my home use) as well as connects to my laptop with a ethernet? cable.

( c ) I recently got a Asus RT N66u router (not regular phone line connectable) as a very nice present.

( d ) I disconnected my Linksys router from my laptop and connected my Asus router to my Linkysy router with an ethernet cable.

( e ) I then connected my Asus router to my laptop.

The internet connection on my laptop (and also wireless wifi internet connections to my Apple TV pods around the house and to my tablet and smartphones) seem faster, but Im not sure if Im imagining that...

Does the above sound correct? or is it totally inefficient & not recommended?

many thanks!

First, congratulations on your cool Asus router! .... I'm drooling with envy here!

With your TOT internet, it's going to make interesting reading what 'those-who-know' have to say about your setup.

I would like to know their reasoning about:

1) From this newbie's perspective, with the Asus being by far the faster of the two routers, it seems that you have it correct, (pending device menu inter-face settings), because:

1) The laptop is getting the fastest possible internet connection via wire connection (as opposed to the 'relatively' slower wireless connection)(?)

2) If the Linksys router is setup correctly, could not its 'wireless' mode (to devices with the slower Wireless G designated speed), be 'isolated' so that the Asus signal to the laptop (as well as to the Linksys, technically speaking), is at the Wireless N speed and isn't reduced (by the lower speed Wireless G TV, pod devices)?

3) Did you flash your Asus with the better DD-Wrt program?

thanks!

on 3), no I didnt flash it...I read online wikis and forums on flashing (mainly to use VPN tunnels with a flashed router for Netflix on my Apple TV--now that Tunlr DNS servers has given up), and its way way beyond me...there's warnings to read this and that (and this and that etc.), but no-cut-the-BS step-by-step directions (with a reasonable amount of steps) for a router dummy like me....I dont think I will mess with firmware...by the time I figure it out, a new piece of hardware supercedes it...

on 1), 1) and 3) have no idea

[Ahnsahn]

http://www.dd-wrt.co...pported_Devices

thanks!

on 3), no I didn't flash it...I read online wikis and forums on flashing (mainly to use VPN tunnels with a flashed router for Netflix on my Apple TV--now that Tunlr DNS servers has given up), and its way way beyond me...there's warnings to read this and that (and this and that etc.), but no-cut-the-BS step-by-step directions (with a reasonable amount of steps) for a router dummy like me....I don't think I will mess with firmware...by the time I figure it out, a new piece of hardware supersedes it...

on 1), 1) and 3) have no idea

I hear 'ya about the firmware flash debate. I have found that one has to learn at least some technical aspects of each component in their computer in order to have a quality performance system ..... so here we are talking about the 'pros and cons' of router firmware flashing!

I'm looking to get my router next week. I'll try to follow someone who just flashed their router before I flash mine.

How do you use VPNs or VPN 'tunnels'? I just recently heard of them .....

You shouldn't have to worry about 'new piece of hardware' or standard superseding our router models because:

1) As stated in an earlier post, even though routers with the new 'Wireless AC' standard have just come onto the market, there are no 'devices' (other than connecting two 'Wireless AC' routers together) that can make use of the new technology.

2) Number two ... TIT, we are in Thailand and the 'operational standards', (internet speeds, etc.) IMHO, are not always up to 'standards'.

[trajan]

How do you use VPNs or VPN 'tunnels'? I just recently heard of them .....

I currently use a VPN (or virtual private network) service. It provides encryption of the connection (for privacy) on different technologies such as OpenVPN, PPTP (point-to-point tunneling protocol) etc and also provides intermediary servers in locations outside of Thailand (like in the US) to connect to parties such as Netflix US (which only accepts connections from US servers).

Up to a very recent point, I have been watching Netflix (on my US paid account) movies/TV shows via my Apple TV pods connected to my TVs in Thailand by entering a free DNS US server setting from Tunlr. However, Tunlr very recently stopped supporting Netflix connections.

Therefore, I was searching for alternatives. I read on-line that I could firmware flash a DD-WRT (whatever that means) supported router to enable my VPN service to wifi broadcast a US server setting to all of my Apple TV pods at home. However, that firmware flashing process is too much for me (Im a newbie to this). To get to the same goal, I used the Unotelly service instead (from a suggestion on a different thread), which did not require any complicated (and risky) flashing process (and took about 10 minutes).

now Im just trying to maximize the efficiency and speed of my internet connection (without flashing firmware)...

my current set-up is:

TRUE INTERNET DSL 10Mbps (telephone line) ======>LINKSYS WAG320n DSL (router) (2.4 GHz) ======> ASUS RT N66U CABLE (router) (duel 2.4GHz and 5GHz connection capability?) =========> HP LAPTOP (by ethernet cable)

the ASUS ROUTER also broadcasts a 2.4GHz wifi signal and a 5 GHz wifi signal to my various devices (Apple TV pods, iPad, Galaxy tablet, iPhone, Androids etc.) at home

it seems to be working well, but Im not sure if its the most streamlined efficient set-up....

any help/comments from the experts would be greatly appreciated! thanks

(for example, should I be changing/tweaking the arrangement somehow or should I ask Santa for a super-fast replacement DSL router?)

.

.

.

Edited October 12, 2012 by trajan

[ttnice30]

Mine is a home phone line and have used D-link and Lynksys but find TP-Link has been much better - especially at reconnecting after a sync loss. It also runs cool (unlike the others) with heavy usage.

What are the models of your Linksys and TP-Link routers?

I have a TOT home phone line, and a separate 3BB internet line. Why is it(?) necessary to have a separate land (home) phone line in order to have this 3BB connection?

What are 'sync' losses?

Seems to me that 3BB has a direct connection to the Internet compare to TOT which needs to go through a normal telephone line (ADSL). This is why 3BB Internet is quicker than TOT Internet btw.

Technically there is no reason why ADSL is or isn't on the same line as the phone, rather it is commercial reasons. TOT and TRUE are both phone providers and ISP's whereas 3BB is only an ISP so they can only offer "naked ADSL" which is still transmitted over an ordinary copper pair. As long as the cabling is done properly it doesn't make any difference to the quality of the ADSL signal whether there is a phone connected or not because they use completely different frequencies.

I see. Thank you for telling me.

[Ahnsahn]

.... but it's better to let the TOT (ISP) router act as an ADSL modem only, (Bridge Mode), and use (a store bought) WiFi router as (the 'controlling' or 'traffic directing' device in a LAN) as Gregory suggests.

I currently use a VPN (or virtual private network) service. It provides encryption of the connection (for privacy) on different technologies such as OpenVPN, PPTP (point-to-point tunneling protocol) etc and also provides intermediary servers in locations outside of Thailand (like in the US) to connect to parties such as Netflix US (which only accepts connections from US servers).

Up to a very recent point, I have been watching Netflix (on my US paid account) movies/TV shows via my Apple TV pods connected to my TVs in Thailand by entering a free DNS US server setting from Tunlr. However, Tunlr very recently stopped supporting Netflix connections.

Therefore, I was searching for alternatives. I read on-line that I could firmware flash a DD-WRT (whatever that means) supported router to enable my VPN service to WiFi broadcast a US server setting to all of my Apple TV pods at home. However, that firmware flashing process is too much for me (I'm a newbie to this). To get to the same goal, I used the Unotelly service instead (from a suggestion on a different thread), which did not require any complicated (and risky) flashing process (and took about 10 minutes).

Now I'm just trying to maximize the efficiency and speed of my internet connection (without flashing firmware)...

my current set-up is:

TRUE INTERNET DSL 10Mbps (telephone line) ======>LINKSYS WAG320n DSL (router) (2.4 GHz) ======> ASUS RT N66U CABLE (router) (duel 2.4GHz and 5GHz connection capability?) =========> HP LAPTOP (by ethernet cable)

the ASUS ROUTER also broadcasts a 2.4GHz wifi signal and a 5 GHz wifi signal to my various devices (Apple TV pods, iPad, Galaxy tablet, iPhone, Androids etc.) at home

it seems to be working well, but Im not sure if its the most streamlined efficient set-up....

any help/comments from the experts would be greatly appreciated! thanks

(for example, should I be changing/tweaking the arrangement somehow or should I ask Santa for a super-fast replacement DSL router?)

.

.

.

There definitely should be no need for a new router! Remembering a quote from Jim Belushi in, 'Red Heat': 'In your Asus RT-N66u router, you got (almost) the best and fastest overall performing router on the market'. Its absolute 'weakest' area is its speed when operating in the 'normal' 2.4 MHz band. In all other bands and categories, it shines.

To run as efficiently as you can w/o flashing the firmware, and until we get more expertise postings, IT Gabs has got us going in the right direction: Use your ISP connected Linsksys in 'Bridge Mode' and let your Asus router be the 'traffic cop' of your LAN.

Two other factors you must also heed; when running multiple devices on your wireless LAN: 1) the max speed from the router to all devices (ports?) will be determined by the device with the 'lowest' Wireless classification. So if you have a TV, android phone and some 'Wireless g' classified Mp3 player connected to your LAN, the router's maximum data transmission speed will on be 54 Mbps as per the 'Wireless g' specifications. In addition, once you have determined the maximum speed rate of your router, the 'actual' speed rate at which data arrives to each (active) device is determined by dividing the 'maximum' speed rate by the number of (active) devices on the wireless LAN .... Does this apply to wired LANs, too?

[Dork]

To run as efficiently as you can w/o flashing the firmware, and until we get more expertise postings, IT Gabs has got us going in the right direction: Use your ISP connected Linsksys in 'Bridge Mode' and let your Asus router be the 'traffic cop' of your LAN.

Agree this is the best solution utilizing the 2 routers you already have. The only downside is that once in bridge mode the Linksys will only function as an ADSL modem with no wifi functionality and since the WAG320 is also a pretty good device you might consider it a bit of a waste. You could buy another cheap ADSL router such as a DLink costing less than THB1000 and put that in bridge mode. That will work just as well and then you can configure the Linksys as a 2nd wifi access point.

Two other factors you must also heed; when running multiple devices on your wireless LAN: 1) the max speed from the router to all devices (ports?) will be determined by the device with the 'lowest' Wireless classification. So if you have a TV, android phone and some 'Wireless g' classified Mp3 player connected to your LAN, the router's maximum data transmission speed will on be 54 Mbps as per the 'Wireless g' specifications. In addition, once you have determined the maximum speed rate of your router, the 'actual' speed rate at which data arrives to each (active) device is determined by dividing the 'maximum' speed rate by the number of (active) devices on the wireless LAN .... Does this apply to wired LANs, too?

The RT-N66 has separate radios for the 2.4 & 5GHZ which operate independently of each other so will not suffer that limitation where one G device would cause a slowdown for other N devices, as long as they are not using the same frequency.

Each of the 4 LAN ports are connected via a switch so they don't share bandwidth. Of course if you connect one LAN port to another switch then all traffic between the 2 switches will be limited to 1Gb

[Dork]

Therefore, I was searching for alternatives. I read on-line that I could firmware flash a DD-WRT (whatever that means) supported router to enable my VPN service to wifi broadcast a US server setting to all of my Apple TV pods at home. However, that firmware flashing process is too much for me (Im a newbie to this). To get to the same goal, I used the Unotelly service instead (from a suggestion on a different thread), which did not require any complicated (and risky) flashing process (and took about 10 minutes).

While I understand that the flashing process can appear a little daunting if you haven't done it before, there are step by step instructions on the DD-WRT forum. It's easier than it may seem.

Actually it's not risky because a great thing about ASUS routers is that they have a firmware update utility built into the hardware (not relying on web gui access) so it is impossible to brick them with a failed flash. You can also very easily revert to factory firmware the same way.

my current set-up is:

TRUE INTERNET DSL 10Mbps (telephone line) ======>LINKSYS WAG320n DSL (router) (2.4 GHz) ======> ASUS RT N66U CABLE (router) (duel 2.4GHz and 5GHz connection capability?) =========> HP LAPTOP (by ethernet cable)

the ASUS ROUTER also broadcasts a 2.4GHz wifi signal and a 5 GHz wifi signal to my various devices (Apple TV pods, iPad, Galaxy tablet, iPhone, Androids etc.) at home

it seems to be working well, but Im not sure if its the most streamlined efficient set-up....

any help/comments from the experts would be greatly appreciated! thanks

(for example, should I be changing/tweaking the arrangement somehow or should I ask Santa for a super-fast replacement DSL router?)

.

.

.

Though this works it isn't a good configuration. That's because the WAG320 is really doing all the work - ADSL, NAT, routing and firewall. Then the ASUS is doing that again (except ADSL) so you have double NAT with no benefit and you are not making use of the powerful hardware in the ASUS. In fact this configuration is operating less efficiently than if you just took the ASUS away.

As already suggested, a better configuration would be to put the WAG320 (or another ADSL router) into bridge mode and let the ASUS do the real work especially since it is such a capable device.

[Ahnsahn]

Ya-aay! Finally a response from a Technical Expert to save us from our own misunderstandings!

Now down to brass tacks:

While I understand that the flashing process can appear a little daunting if you haven't done it before, there are step by step instructions on the DD-WRT forum. It's easier than it may seem.

Actually it's not risky because a great thing about ASUS routers is that they have a firmware update utility built into the hardware (not relying on web gui access) so it is impossible to brick them with a failed flash. You can also very easily revert to factory firmware the same way.

I'm so glad you stated this point - including the fact that our Asus RT-N66U routers now have 'fail safe' flash protection! - it should help others cross that threshold.

I had wanted to make this point to Trajan, but understood Trajan's mindset. I, (and maybe he), have flashed devices dozens of times from motherboards, CD-DVD drives, etc., to Samsung Galaxy android phones and other devices costing far more than 4x this router.

Flashing upgrades/updates a device's capabilities to allow it to stay current (interact) with newly released device technologies.

What is your understanding of the terms: BIOS and firmware.

The only downside is that once in bridge mode the Linksys will only function as an ADSL modem with no WiFi functionality and since the WAG320 is also a pretty good device you might consider it a bit of a waste. You could buy another cheap ADSL router such as a DLink costing less than THB1000 and put that in bridge mode. That will work just as well and then you can configure the Linksys as a 2nd wifi access point.

I am somewhat confused here: Optimally, shouldn't Trajan only need to connect his True(ISP) DSL router to his Asus router and set the DSL router to bridge mode?

my current set-up is:

TRUE INTERNET DSL 10Mbps (telephone line) ======>LINKSYS WAG320n DSL (router) (2.4 GHz) ======> ASUS RT N66U CABLE (router) (duel 2.4GHz and 5GHz connection capability?) =========> HP LAPTOP (by ethernet cable)

the ASUS ROUTER also broadcasts a 2.4GHz wifi signal and a 5 GHz wifi signal to my various devices (Apple TV pods, iPad, Galaxy tablet, iPhone, Androids etc.) at home.

I missed this one: You clarified, 'TRUE INTERNET DSL', here, but originallly you called it, 'TRUE INTERNET' in post #45 .. now I'm confused .... Is the actual physical DSL line/wire directly connected to your Linksys router, or does it go to a True router/modem and the True router/modem is then connected to your Linksys router.

Though this works it isn't a good configuration. That's because the WAG320 is really doing all the work - ADSL, NAT, routing and firewall. Then the ASUS is doing that again (except ADSL) so you have double NAT with no benefit and you are not making use of the powerful hardware in the ASUS. In fact this configuration, it is operating less efficiently than if you just took the ASUS away.

As already suggested, a better configuration would be to put the WAG320 (or another ADSL router) into bridge mode and let the ASUS do the real work especially since it is such a capable device.

If he has a True router/modem, he should set it to bridge mode and then connect it to the WAN port of the Asus router and then to the Asus ports, connect his (wired) laptop to port 1 and connect his Linksys to port 2 and use the Linksys WiFi to operate his TV, phone etc.?

[trajan]

many thanks Ahnsahn and Dork

1. I think I will leave flashing for another day (or month)....

2. I have True Internet service ...on a regular telephone line, that plugs directly into my Linksys-Cisco WAG320N router.... (that free True router (which looked like a cheap toy) was replaced long ago and I dont even know where it is now) ...that Linksys-Cisco router used to be directly connected to my HP laptop (with an ethernet cable) ....

3. however, recently, I plugged my new Asus RT N66u router (with ethernet cable) into my Linksys-Cisco router (and then connected by Asus router directly to my laptop (with an ethernet cable))....my Asus router also broadcasts a wi-fi signal in both 2.4MHz and 5MHz, which I use on my various devices around the condo (like Apple TVs, iPad, tablet, iPhone, Androids)....(my Linksys-Cisco router also continues to broadcast a wi-fi signal, but I don't use it anymore)

4. If I understand Dork correctly, in order to maximize efficiency of the arrangements, I should put the Linksys-Cisco router into a "bridge mode" so that it only functions as an intermediary "modem" between the internet telephone line and my Asus router , so that it does not act as a bottleneck interfering with the higher capability of the Asus router to act as "traffic cop" on the connection. I really hope I understood that right.

5. I searched around about how to place the Linksys-Cisco router into "bridge mode" and found this page http://homekb.cisco.com/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?pid=80&app=vw&vw=1&login=1&json=1&docid=2417e9fc56c446d1aae66acda2dd1ba7_20595.xml

6. I get steps 1 and 2 of the "bridge mode" instructions, but steps 3 through 8, inclusive are like engineering speak on Star Trek ....("mutliplexing"? "QoS Type"? ""PCR and SCR"? "VPI and VCI"? and "DSL Modulation" rates? etc.)...come one..what?!

Step 3:

Set

LLC

or

VC

according to what

Multiplexing

your DSL connection is using. If you're not sure, check the documentation for your DSL service.

Step 4:

From the drop-down menu, select the

QoS Type

from the following:

•

Unspecified Bit Rate (UBR)

– This is for applications that are not time sensitive, such as email.

•

Constant Bit Rate (CBR)

– This is used to specify fixed bandwidth for voice or data traffic.

•

Variable Bite Rate (VBR)

– This option is for heavy traffic and bandwidth-sharing with other applications.

Step 5:

If you've selected UBR for QoS, the

Peak Cell Rate (PCR)

and

Sustain Cell Rate (SCR)

rate are determined automatically. Otherwise, enter the desired PCR and SCR values.

NOTE:

SCR sets the average cell rate that can be transmitted. The SCR value is normally less than the PCR value.

Step 6:

Set Autodetect to

Enable

to have the

Virtual Path Identifier (VPI)

and

Virtual Circuit Identifier (VCI)

settings automatically detected, or select

Disable

to enter the values manually. This option should only be used when there is a single

Virtual Circuit (VC).

If you set the Autodetect to

Enable,

you can skip step 7.

Step 7:

Refer to the data from your DSL provider and enter the correct

VPI

and

VCI

values.

Step 8:

Select the

DSL Modulation

from the drop-down menu. Contact your Internet Service Provider (ISP) if you are not sure which mode to use. The upstream and downstream rates vary by mode.

[trajan]

by the way, to boost my Asus router wi-fi signal all around my condo (my router is upstairs in the study--but the signal downstairs in the living areas and balcony is a bit weak), today I bought a:

D-Link Wireless N Access Point DAP-1360 (which kinda looks like a mini-router with two small antenae (which the sales guy at Pantip said should extend/boost my wifi signal in the lower floor)....fingers crossed this works (even before I manage to put the Linksys-Cisco router into "bridge mode").....

.

.

.

Edited October 13, 2012 by trajan

[Ahnsahn]

many thanks Ahnsahn and Dork

1. I think I will leave flashing for another day (or month)....

2. I have True Internet service ...on a regular telephone line, that plugs directly into my Linksys-Cisco WAG320N router.... (that free True router (which looked like a cheap toy) was replaced long ago and I dont even know where it is now) ...that Linksys-Cisco router used to be directly connected to my HP laptop (with an ethernet cable) ....

3. however, recently, I plugged my new Asus RT N66u router (with ethernet cable) into my Linksys-Cisco router (and then connected by Asus router directly to my laptop (with an ethernet cable))....my Asus router also broadcasts a wi-fi signal in both 2.4MHz and 5MHz, which I use on my various devices around the condo (like Apple TVs, iPad, tablet, iPhone, Androids)....(my Linksys-Cisco router also continues to broadcast a wi-fi signal, but I don't use it anymore)

4. If I understand Dork correctly, in order to maximize efficiency of the arrangements, I should put the Linksys-Cisco router into a "bridge mode" so that it only functions as an intermediary "modem" between the internet telephone line and my Asus router , so that it does not act as a bottleneck interfering with the higher capability of the Asus router to act as "traffic cop" on the connection. I really hope I understood that right.

5. I searched around about how to place the Linksys-Cisco router into "bridge mode" and found this page http://homekb.cisco....d1ba7_20595.xml

6. I get steps 1 and 2 of the "bridge mode" instructions, but steps 3 through 8, inclusive are like engineering speak on Star Trek ....("mutliplexing"? "QoS Type"? ""PCR and SCR"? "VPI and VCI"? and "DSL Modulation" rates? etc.)...come one..what?!

1) ...... no problem! With you having to deal with steps 3 through 8 of your 'bridge mode' setup, your 'Technical plate' seems to be full at the moment. Actuall, though, Dork and company should be able to simplify the process for us.

2) I got it now: Your internet line is a RJ11 telephone jack connection, (like mine), and plugs directly into the back of your ADSL modem/router. Other than the 'bridge mode' setting (which is critical), you just may have the devices properly connected.

3) I believe Dork will be saying that whatever router/modem that your phone line is connected to - the Linksys or better yet, a cheap one to be used in 'bridge mode' - that router/modem should be connected to the WAN port on the Asus router.

4) That's how I interpret it to mean, too.

5) & 6) I sure hope (and really believe) going to 'bridge mode' is a lot simpler than that. If it's a matter of software menu selection by Linksys that makes it that complicated, then l would get a router with simpler settings. Let's see what Dork says.....

I hope your access point router works out ......

[Ahnsahn]

many thanks Ahnsahn and Dork

Step 4:

From the drop-down menu, select the QoS Type from the following:

•

Unspecified Bit Rate (UBR)

– This is for applications that are not time sensitive, such as email.

•

Constant Bit Rate (CBR)

– This is used to specify fixed bandwidth for voice or data traffic.

•

Variable Bite Rate (VBR)

– This option is for heavy traffic and bandwidth-sharing with other applications.

Step 5:

If you've selected UBR for QoS, the Peak Cell Rate (PCR) and Sustain Cell Rate (SCR) rate are determined automatically. Otherwise, enter the desired PCR and SCR values.

NOTE: SCR sets the average cell rate that can be transmitted. The SCR value is normally less than the PCR value.

Step 6:

Set Autodetect to Enable to have the Virtual Path Identifier (VPI) and Virtual Circuit Identifier (VCI) settings automatically detected, or select Disable to enter the values manually. This option should only be used when there is a single Virtual Circuit (VC). If you set the Autodetect to Enable, you can skip step 7.

Step 7:

Refer to the data from your DSL provider and enter the correct VPI and VCI values.

Step 8:

Select the DSL Modulation from the drop-down menu. Contact your Internet Service Provider (ISP) if you are not sure which mode to use. The upstream and downstream rates vary by mode.

On reflection, and after looking at my 3BB's router interface menu , what we have is simply inserting a few 'values' here and there. It's like having to list: how many cylinders your car has, list the number of valves, is it auto or manual, do you have ABS .... my point is that this router interface menu is just any area of common values that has to be learned and really no big deal .... once we locate the correct values (from fellow posters or else from the True customer service). Since last night, I have located on my 3BB line installation documents and that my (and maybe yours?) relevant setup values are:

Router Encapsulation:

PPPoE LLC

VPI = 0

VCI = 33

[lomatopo]

True Online DSL settings:

VPI=0, VCI=100, UBR, PPPoA/PPPoE, encap.= PPPoE LLC

multi-mode should be fine, but think you have ADSL2+

username = 02nnnnnnn@truehisp

password = 02nnnnnnn

where 02nnnnnnn is your telephone number.

Not sure which ethernet port, on the WAG 320 is the "uplink" - ethernet connection to your Asus router (WAN or blue - port) - assume it is port 1, or if you need a crossover cable, or if you have to change any settings in the WAG320N to specify the uplink port?