My Car Won't Start!

[transam]

Thanks for all your comments and advice.

Special thanks to worgeordie who despite not knowing me from adam drove all the way over here just to jump start my car.

It seems I let my battery run dry of water which was causing the problem, and it seems to be solved now.

Hurrah for worgeordie for saving the day!

Remember that your car will not fully charge the battery. It needs to be put on a charger to bring it back to life, THEN test it with a meter to see that it is around 12.7 volts after being left over night. If it reads in the lower 12's it is knackered.

[kaptainrob]

Most new cars will not start if battery cranking voltage drops below ~ 9.5v. The computer simply does not allow the starter to be engaged. In this instance one can use any battery as a "jumper", even the smallest emergency lighting or motorbike battery, so long as it is charged to ~ 12v.

[Dellboy218]

Thanks for all your comments and advice.

Special thanks to worgeordie who despite not knowing me from adam drove all the way over here just to jump start my car.

It seems I let my battery run dry of water which was causing the problem, and it seems to be solved now.

Hurrah for worgeordie for saving the day!

Remember that your car will not fully charge the battery. It needs to be put on a charger to bring it back to life, THEN test it with a meter to see that it is around 12.7 volts after being left over night. If it reads in the lower 12's it is knackered.

Sorry but testing a batteries volatge does not tell you very much. You need a hydrometer and test the specific gravity of the acid which has to be 1250+ for fully charged bateries. Below about 1220 you have problems and you may need acid to bring it back. Edited October 28, 2012 by Dellboy218

[hellodolly]

Possibly carry jumper cables ad just show them to your neighbor or some one close by.

They would know your problem is right away and if they didn't they wouldn't be able to help you any way.

[Tywais]

Thanks for all your comments and advice.

Special thanks to worgeordie who despite not knowing me from adam drove all the way over here just to jump start my car.

It seems I let my battery run dry of water which was causing the problem, and it seems to be solved now.

Hurrah for worgeordie for saving the day!

Remember that your car will not fully charge the battery. It needs to be put on a charger to bring it back to life, THEN test it with a meter to see that it is around 12.7 volts after being left over night. If it reads in the lower 12's it is knackered.

Sorry but testing a batteries volatge does not tell you very much. You need a hydrometer and test the specific gravity of the acid which has to be 1250+ for fully charged bateries. Below about 1220 you have problems and you may need acid to bring it back.

Actually Transam is correct, actually you are both correct in a certain sense. You can still have a failing battery even if the specific gravity is spot on and is due to the lead plating and other internal electrodes deteriorating. If just making sure the ph is correct than one would never need to buy a new battery. The standing, unloaded voltage, will give you an idea of the condition of the battery overall if the ph is correct.

[Spoonman]

not in a hot climate and with airconditiong which poses a heavy drain.

Considering the AC pump is engine driven Iam curious as to why you think the AC places additional load on the vehicles electrics.

[Dellboy218]

Thanks for all your comments and advice.

Special thanks to worgeordie who despite not knowing me from adam drove all the way over here just to jump start my car.

It seems I let my battery run dry of water which was causing the problem, and it seems to be solved now.

Hurrah for worgeordie for saving the day!

Remember that your car will not fully charge the battery. It needs to be put on a charger to bring it back to life, THEN test it with a meter to see that it is around 12.7 volts after being left over night. If it reads in the lower 12's it is knackered.

Sorry but testing a batteries volatge does not tell you very much. You need a hydrometer and test the specific gravity of the acid which has to be 1250+ for fully charged bateries. Below about 1220 you have problems and you may need acid to bring it back.

Actually Transam is correct, actually you are both correct in a certain sense. You can still have a failing battery even if the specific gravity is spot on and is due to the lead plating and other internal electrodes deteriorating. If just making sure the ph is correct than one would never need to buy a new battery. The standing, unloaded voltage, will give you an idea of the condition of the battery overall if the ph is correct.

Well I would query with ''Making sure the ph is correct then one would never need a new battery''. I am not sure how you maintain the correct SG in a faulty cell, been trying to do that for 40 years, usually have one duff one in the hundreds I have to test every month. If the cell is faulty you can charge the battery all you like but that cell is not going to charge and the resultant SG will be low. If it has furred up electrodes you can burp it to try and clear it, if there is debris shorting the cell out it can be washed out to try and clear it. But if that cell is faulty it is not going to charge. That SG is not going to rise. The unloaded voltage does not tell you very much, you would have to load the battery and then test the voltage before that reading became meaningful.

[transam]

Thanks for all your comments and advice.

Special thanks to worgeordie who despite not knowing me from adam drove all the way over here just to jump start my car.

It seems I let my battery run dry of water which was causing the problem, and it seems to be solved now.

Hurrah for worgeordie for saving the day!

Remember that your car will not fully charge the battery. It needs to be put on a charger to bring it back to life, THEN test it with a meter to see that it is around 12.7 volts after being left over night. If it reads in the lower 12's it is knackered.

Sorry but testing a batteries volatge does not tell you very much. You need a hydrometer and test the specific gravity of the acid which has to be 1250+ for fully charged bateries. Below about 1220 you have problems and you may need acid to bring it back.

Actually Transam is correct, actually you are both correct in a certain sense. You can still have a failing battery even if the specific gravity is spot on and is due to the lead plating and other internal electrodes deteriorating. If just making sure the ph is correct than one would never need to buy a new battery. The standing, unloaded voltage, will give you an idea of the condition of the battery overall if the ph is correct.

Thanks, didn't want to get into tech with the lady.

[realthaideal]

Good on you, Krupnik, always coming to TV in times of need and never fearing the potential flack you may catch ! I wish more ladies your age in CM would brave the TV waters and be active members of our community as well.

Tell your lady friends in town that TV serves you well and it's up to them what this place is. They can drive the online culture ! Anyway.....

You don't need your car until the afternoon time ? Must just be a meeting day at school ?

Hope it's all sorted and for a nice price tmw.

[Rancid]

If you need it fixed now I cannot help you but if you wait till the morning you just have to telephone one of the battery people or BQuick or Compass and they will come and fit a new battery. It will probably cost about 4000baht.

3,5 years ago bought a new Mazda 3,battery dead after 18 month.Mazda told me this is normal and a new one should cost

3600 bath.Bought one myself at the street where the trainstation is,close to the superhighway for 1600 bath,still ok.

Bought a Mazda 3 three years ago and the battery still kicks like new. Seems there could be other factors at play.

[transam]

If you need it fixed now I cannot help you but if you wait till the morning you just have to telephone one of the battery people or BQuick or Compass and they will come and fit a new battery. It will probably cost about 4000baht.

3,5 years ago bought a new Mazda 3,battery dead after 18 month.Mazda told me this is normal and a new one should cost

3600 bath.Bought one myself at the street where the trainstation is,close to the superhighway for 1600 bath,still ok.

Bought a Mazda 3 three years ago and the battery still kicks like new. Seems there could be other factors at play.

Of course. Electronics are a minefield, heat, usage the car has, but the quality of the battery is a biggy. BUT, a lot depends on the starter motor. Does it have gears . High horsepower rides might have or are converted to a geared starter, needs less power to start a basic ride but works great with a big inch or high compression motor.

Suspect some factory stuff have geared starters that will start on a naff battery.

[JimGant]

More info on car batteries at this TV link:

http://www.thaivisa....ge__hl__battery

The consensus on average battery life in Thailand seems to be 2 years. I remember reading this long ago, and ever since I've replaced my car batteries every 2 years. Sure, I probably could go longer -- but I'd collect no prize for "Hey, my battery lasted 3 years, 5 months, and 2 weeks -- before it died in a dark parking lot at midnight."

Carrying jumper cables is also well suggested. And, as maintenance free batteries seem to be a rarity over here, checking those cells ever so often to see if they need a shot of distilled water is also well suggested.

So, it would seem, replacing your battery every 2 years -- at your convenience -- is the way to go. Plus, keeping a bottle of distilled water on hand.

The battery in my car in Chiang Mai is 7 1/2 years old and still working fine.

When had you planned to replace it? When it died?

Edited October 28, 2012 by JimGant

[hellodolly]

I would hate to see what the answers would have been if she said she was thirsty.

[kennedy]

If you can afford a car, you can afford a battery.Reminds me of Thais kick starting their motorbikes after the first battery went dead, on the bike they bought new.Surprised they don't sell hand cranked cars here.

[onthedarkside]

Speaking about 'hand cranked cars', I well remember the days when cars had a 'starting handle'. Used to be a useful accessory.

[transam]

Speaking about 'hand cranked cars', I well remember the days when cars had a 'starting handle'. Used to be a useful accessory.

Yep, never wrap your thumb around the handle. Broken thumb.

[harrry]

I remember the days when some cars had a retard lever.....not current ones when I was driving but there were still a lot on the road.

[kaptainrob]

I remember the days when some cars had a retard lever.....not current ones when I was driving but there were still a lot on the road.

Have to disagree there Harry... .modern cars come with a retard in the front RH seat.

[harrry]

I remember the days when some cars had a retard lever.....not current ones when I was driving but there were still a lot on the road.

Have to disagree there Harry... .modern cars come with a retard in the front RH seat.

That was the left hand seat .

[onthedarkside]

I remember the days when some cars had a retard lever.....not current ones when I was driving but there were still a lot on the road.

That sort of comment is bound to bring out some interesting comments. but as a forum mod I must resist making my comment ...

[trainman34014]

Retard lever? Isn't that an ejector seat ?