Fortuner Making A Whirring Sound

[kurnell]

Only while it is stationary in drive. When in neutral the noise stops so I assumed it was a gearbox problem. No surprise that the Toyota service centre can't find a solution. The car occasionally will not engage when in drive, remaining in neutral for a second or 2. Last week Toyota changed the transmission fluid (at my request), but this made no difference.

Any thoughts on what it could, or can anyone recommend a garage where the staff have some common sense?

[SoCalChris]

Did you replace the transmission fluid filter?

Does the transmission slip in Drive at full throttle?

Did the shop measure the transmission fluid pressure when the car is running?

Did you accidently shift into drive when the engine was revving fast?

It sounds like you don't have sufficient hydraulic pressure inside the transmission. Power steering pumps make a similar noise when low on fluid or when they are about to fail.

Maybe there's air in the system somewhere that needs "burped" out......

Edited October 29, 2012 by SoCalChris

[kartman]

It's buggered.

[John 1]

What mileage has it done are you the 1st owner.

[thaicruze]

When you say whirring sound is it like this?

[thaicruze]

Sounds like this?

[transam]

Could be a few things that only a guy on the spot can listen for. I had a similar thing (not my Toyota), turned out to be thrust bearing in the torque converter.

[kotsak]

Exhaust pipe springs can create similar noises as well.. Those springs are placed between the different parts of the exhaust system..

Heat shields as well when they start resonating because they've become loose..

Edited October 29, 2012 by kotsak

[kurnell]

The car has 110,000km on the clock

Edited October 29, 2012 by kurnell

[kurnell]

I am pretty sure the car in the video is in neutral yes?

Edited October 29, 2012 by kurnell

[VocalNeal]

I would suggest trying a different Toyota dealership/workshop.

Only while it is stationary in drive. When in neutral the noise stops so I assumed it was a gearbox problem.

My twisted logic suggests it is not gearbox related because when stationary the gearbox is not turning. Either torque converter or auxiliaries.

Edited October 29, 2012 by VocalNeal

[Crossy]

My old Beamer had similar issues, no noise in Park and Neutral, whirring noise in Drive (but only when stationary) which decreased when rolling slowly. Turned out to be the torque converter after a lot of faffing about by the man.

[kurnell]

My old Beamer had similar issues, no noise in Park and Neutral, whirring noise in Drive (but only when stationary) which decreased when rolling slowly. Turned out to be the torque converter after a lot of faffing about by the man.

I hope the Toyota service centre knows what a torque converter is

[transam]

My old Beamer had similar issues, no noise in Park and Neutral, whirring noise in Drive (but only when stationary) which decreased when rolling slowly. Turned out to be the torque converter after a lot of faffing about by the man.

I hope the Toyota service centre knows what a torque converter is

[kurnell]

My old Beamer had similar issues, no noise in Park and Neutral, whirring noise in Drive (but only when stationary) which decreased when rolling slowly. Turned out to be the torque converter after a lot of faffing about by the man.

I hope the Toyota service centre knows what a torque converter is

You are not confident? Perhaps if I point at the general area of the vehicle where it should be located?

[transam]

My old Beamer had similar issues, no noise in Park and Neutral, whirring noise in Drive (but only when stationary) which decreased when rolling slowly. Turned out to be the torque converter after a lot of faffing about by the man.

I hope the Toyota service centre knows what a torque converter is

You are not confident? Perhaps if I point at the general area of the vehicle where it should be located?

...................... Just tell them to forget about the radio.

[mogandave]

If the radio is loud enough, you can't hear the whirring.

Were it me, and were I sure it was the torque converter, I would make sure they replaced it with a new (not rebuilt) converter.

If cost is an issue, you might try to find a new after-market part and have it installed at reputable shop. You really do not want to have the transmission torn down if you can avoid it.

A converter out of a low mileage wreck is okay as well, but I would not recommend a rebuilt.

[kurnell]

If the radio is loud enough, you can't hear the whirring.

Were it me, and were I sure it was the torque converter, I would make sure they replaced it with a new (not rebuilt) converter.

If cost is an issue, you might try to find a new after-market part and have it installed at reputable shop. You really do not want to have the transmission torn down if you can avoid it.

A converter out of a low mileage wreck is okay as well, but I would not recommend a rebuilt.

Any idea of costs for a new one?

[sotsira]

You can try a stall speed test which checks the torque converter's efficiency.

Have the car positioned with a clear unobstructed front pathway, then apply the handbrake

and the foot brake with the left foot with pressure.

At the same time while the vehicle is in drive gradually press the accelerator pedal with the right foot,

the engine revs will climb to around 1500-2000rpm and the vehicle will try to move forward,

but with the brakes fully applied will prevent it doing so.

The torque converter will be at full operational speed to engage drive, if you hear louder or different noises

while performing this test then it will indicate that the converter has an internal fault.

If the engine revs go up to a certain rpm every time and stay there without any different noises then the converter

is performing as it should.

This test should only be performed for 5 secs at a time as it puts max stress on the converter,

but it is a good and quick way to check the converter's performance.

Edited October 29, 2012 by sotsira

[SoCalChris]

You can try a stall speed test which checks the torque converter's efficiency.

Have the car positioned with a clear unobstructed front pathway, then apply the handbrake

and the foot brake with the left foot with pressure.

At the same time while the vehicle is in drive gradually press the accelerator pedal with the right foot,

the engine revs will climb to around 1500-2000rpm and the vehicle will try to move forward,

but with the brakes fully applied will prevent it doing so.

The torque converter will be at full operational speed to engage drive, if you hear louder or different noises

while performing this test then it will indicate that the converter has an internal fault.

If the engine revs go up to a certain rpm every time and stay there without any different noises then the converter

is performing as it should.

This test should only be performed for 5 secs at a time as it puts max stress on the converter,

but it is a good and quick way to check the converter's performance.

Yes, this is a good way to test the torque converter's integrity. The five second time limit is really to prevent the transmission fluid from overheating and should be followed by a minute cool down after each test.

Speaking of transmission fluid, was the old transmission fluid pink or a brown color when it was changed? Brown fluid indicates an overheating problem.

[transam]

Changing the trans fluid will do absolutely nothing to solve a transmission noise. What should have been done (perhaps they did) is drop the trans sump, look for crap in the bottom, take off the internal fluid filter and inspect it for a particular type of debris.

[John 1]

Changing the trans fluid will do absolutely nothing to solve a transmission noise. What should have been done (perhaps they did) is drop the trans sump, look for crap in the bottom, take off the internal fluid filter and inspect it for a particular type of debris.

Maye be they didn't listen to you and change the mineral oil every 5,000km.

[Lickey]

When the box is in neutral the converter is driving the oil pump, which in turn fill the converter,valve body,and all the clutches/bands, ect,

In drive, 1st is pressurized, this {nowadays] is by electric solenoid for all gears, speed and load sensed, even these are known to partially stick not allowing enough oil through, if this happens it will slip and whine,

OP, do you have a manual select? if so, try it in other gears, if the noise persists, then its possibly a converter fault,does the oil smell like youve just opened a bag of dry roasted peanuts? if so, this would sugest burnt clutch plates, and possibly a converter friction plate,

You need to find a garage with the plug in analyser, or as mentioned pressure gauges, good luck with that one!!

[SoCalChris]

The only Thai garage I will go to in located in Khlong Toie. I got to know the manager after a couple of years, found him to be very competent and his prices are reasonable too. IE., he swapped in my high stall torque converter and changed the tranny fluid in my NIssan for 3000baht without parts.

To get there: Head west on Rama4 and the Khlong Toie fresh market will come up on your left. Go through two stoplights and 50meters after the second light, make a left into a small soi. Go about 100 meters and the shop will come up on the right. Tell him the farang with the souped-up Nissan NV see dum sent ya.

Edited October 31, 2012 by SoCalChris

[kurnell]

Finally had the time to take the car to Toyota and they kept it for 4 days and charged me 2,200 baht to 'replace something rubber' according to my msz translation of the receipt. The noise seems to have stopped.

[transam]

Finally had the time to take the car to Toyota and they kept it for 4 days and charged me 2,200 baht to 'replace something rubber' according to my msz translation of the receipt. The noise seems to have stopped.

Good result.

[funcat]

Finally had the time to take the car to Toyota and they kept it for 4 days and charged me 2,200 baht to 'replace something rubber' according to my msz translation of the receipt. The noise seems to have stopped.

Good result.

...but still don't know what was it...

[kurnell]

Finally had the time to take the car to Toyota and they kept it for 4 days and charged me 2,200 baht to 'replace something rubber' according to my msz translation of the receipt. The noise seems to have stopped.

Good result.

The sound has come back.

[transam]

Finally had the time to take the car to Toyota and they kept it for 4 days and charged me 2,200 baht to 'replace something rubber' according to my msz translation of the receipt. The noise seems to have stopped.

Good result.

The sound has come back.