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Engine Replacement For A Mazda 6 2003.


MegaRanter

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I got this car early last year, and really likes driving it, but the engine seems to be gone.I have tried to buy a replacement but have nt seen a match.

Anyone here knows what other engines could be compatible with The Mazda 6 2003, 3.0 V6.

Its a gift, and I want to keep it.Its yellow and looks like its been kept well over the years.

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Believe the Ford Durate engine was used in the Volvo, and also Jag but the layout was different..

Thailand dose not have the 3.0 lt Mondeo or Granada.

My memory is not what it was but seam to remember there was a problem with the Mazda 6 and the oil sump being to small, or the oil pickup would not work if car was on a hill/sloop = engine damage due to no lubrication, and was changed in about 2004/5 to a redesigned sump. = engine mounts were different...

​Have no idea with other Japanese Engines or if any would fit.

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  • Thanks for the replies.
  • The car is in Nigeria, like I said it was a gift, It must have been in a perfect condition, when it arrived but I live in Abuja, so it was driven overland to from Lagos, The air intake was bad, and the catalytic converter was not working properly. these probably did the engine damage, those initial problem was resolved with new fuel pump and filter,water pump and filter, new converter. Then minor services, it was back to sub racer. I used it to go down south, which involved a lot slowing down and revving to take off again, Then oil in the engine dried up and the knocking/kicking sound would occur when pushed.

The engine is scarce round this region, I found one in melbourne, it was a four cylinder. Would a ford mondeo or granada engines be a perfect match? I may have a better luck finding one if I add those ones to my search list.

I seriously love the race capabilities and the sporty xteristics of this car, I am hoping to buy a late version but i would want to keep this yellow bird as well.

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  • 8 months later...

UPDATE.

after months of searching, I found an engine replacement.

This week it was mounted but the oil pump refused to work, the engine runs but the oil indicator light shows.

I had the engine dismounted and another oil pump put, but it refused to pump.

I have gone over budget for this, but still no success.

The guy working on it wants to computer diagnose the brain box come Monday.

But I want to ask here, WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM WITH OIL PUM NOT WORKING?

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The replaced engine runs fine, but the oil is Not pumped around it, even the oil filter is dry.

Any help would be appreciated, anyone in the know should please respond before I torch the damn thing .

Edited by MegaRanter
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Have researched your issue briefly and online the cause seems to be a cavatation issue with these models, what also concerns me is the condition of your replacement engine and where you sourced it? If it was run even a few minutes including the current fire up it could be damaged as well.

Did the mechanic even prime the pump? This is a required step for any pump replacement or if an engine has been completely drained of oil, a dry prime is required first without running the engine. There is really a ton of questions here and I'm having problems finding a starting point..

If you can get it pumping? Then an oil pressure test is necessary with a gauge not just an oil light, and you should go to a heavy oil 20W50 for example or possibly an additive at this point to help prevent the cavatation issue..

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Warpspeed is spot on. I would be wondering about the pump being primed first as this May explain why you have no oil pressure. If the engine had been sat around dry for a long time before it was fitted that is.

Whenever I installed new or recon engines I would always fill the oil filter with fresh oil and also disable the engine from actually starting. I would crank it over until I had built up enough oil pressure before letting it run properly.

Of course it could just be a worn oil pump or worst case worn out replacement engine.

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Actually re-reading your previous post, you have run it without oil pressure?? Sorry to be the bearer of bad news I'm afraid, if not already trashed, damage has been done, that's a certainty, especially if it was sitting for any period of time dry, it's only a matter of time for this engine too.. sad.png

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By Cavitation , i assume you mean sucking in air, like Race Boat Props. Out of touch now, but wasnt that the reason for Dry Sump ,over Splash Sumps. I lost touch after Cosworth 500 type stuff.... Benz actually put a Pump in the Sump at one time. Hence its clucked up many Gas Coverted straight sixes here. No one fires a motor without a heavy pump prime, even here...thumbsup.gif

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If you are looking as far away as Australia you could look at a Toyota 1UZFE engine (if you are keen on racy stuff).

Lextreme.com would be a good place to check how well it would fit.

I would love to know to how to fit a rear wheel drive Toyota V8 into a front wheel drive Mazda, Lextreme.com seems to be a bit shy on this conversion.

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By Cavitation , i assume you mean sucking in air, like Race Boat Props. Out of touch now, but wasnt that the reason for Dry Sump ,over Splash Sumps. I lost touch after Cosworth 500 type stuff.... Benz actually put a Pump in the Sump at one time. Hence its clucked up many Gas Coverted straight sixes here. No one fires a motor without a heavy pump prime, even here...thumbsup.gif

Actually doesn't suck in air, (at least not in this case) it produces it's own gases by bashing the fluid instead of moving it and that produces air bubbles in the fluid. It is usually caused by either too much restriction on the intake not allowing enough fluid for movement or too much flow on the outflow and the fluid flows too easily through the system so not enough back pressure to slow it.

Most oiling systems have a bypass that allows some oil to flow past the filter in case it gets completely clogged to prevent oil starvation in such a case, as dirty oil is still better then no oil at all, if this bypass valve is too weak it can cause this issue, but it requires some inspection and testing to find out what the problem actually is..

A race boat prop can/does cavitate in certain circumstances but in those cases it is more due to rapid rotation of the prop as it comes out of the water and then when it re-enters the water it is spinning so fast water can not actually get into the rotation cycle due to an air encasement around the prop and the prop just spins but no forward motion as it's not pushing water. This can also happen with an oil pump but it's less likely these days as long as there is enough oil in the pan.

Edited by WarpSpeed
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By Cavitation , i assume you mean sucking in air, like Race Boat Props. Out of touch now, but wasnt that the reason for Dry Sump ,over Splash Sumps. I lost touch after Cosworth 500 type stuff.... Benz actually put a Pump in the Sump at one time. Hence its clucked up many Gas Coverted straight sixes here. No one fires a motor without a heavy pump prime, even here...thumbsup.gif

Actually doesn't suck in air, (at least not in this case) it produces it's own gases by bashing the fluid instead of moving it and that produces air bubbles in the fluid. It is usually caused by either too much restriction on the intake not allowing enough fluid for movement or too much flow on the outflow and the fluid flows too easily through the system so not enough back pressure to slow it.

Most oiling systems have a bypass that allows some oil to flow past the filter in case it gets completely clogged to prevent oil starvation in such a case, as dirty oil is still better then no oil at all, if this bypass valve is too weak it can cause this issue, but it requires some inspection and testing to find out what the problem actually is..

A race boat prop can/does cavitate in certain circumstances but in those cases it is more due to rapid rotation of the prop as it comes out of the water and then when it re-enters the water it is spinning so fast water can not actually get into the rotation cycle due to an air encasement around the prop and the prop just spins but no forward motion as it's not pushing water. This can also happen with an oil pump but it's less likely these days as long as there is enough oil in the pan.

Nice reply, thanks.coffee1.gif

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Before you write it off I would at least establish the cause of the low oil pressure. A simple oil pressure test can be done in no time at all and then you can decide whether to proceed or call it a lost cause.

I don't know much about Mazda's and what their engine weaknesses are unfortunately, I was an Audi tech. Keep us updated on your progress anyway and keep your chin up.

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^Agreed.. I'd see what it will take for them to at least get it running with oil pressure and do some tests.. You're already in this far, it's not going to get that much deeper to find out this info. first..

Edited by WarpSpeed
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