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Thailand's Full Moon Parties Have Become a Trashy Disgrace

One-time bastion of peace and alternative living has degenerated into a modern day Gomorrah of tawdry over-indulgence

By Charlie Campbell


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File photo


“The skies were star-spangled and blue phosphorescence would spray like diamonds in the sea … the sand glowed silver and the waves danced alive as they hit the shore.” The year is 1988 and the now-legendary Full Moon Party has hit the tropical Thai island of Koh Phangan for the first time, described to TIME by intrepid Scotsman Colin Hinshelwood who bobbed over on a fishing boat from neighboring Koh Samui. Hippies from across the globe used to quietly gather at this idyllic enclave, drifting in on clouds of marijuana smoke to sit on a beach, strum a battered guitar and simply be. Today, however, the only blue spray you’ll see might be the lurid curaçao cocktail expelled from the guts of a retching 20-something. This onetime Eden has degenerated into a modern day Gomorrah awash in tawdry techno, cheap fast food and wasted Millennials.


Every month of the year, thousands of revelers make the pilgrimage to this isle of indulgence. Haad Rin beach, on Koh Phangan’s southern tip, is a one-mile strip onto which 30,000 people, mostly young foreigners, will cram themselves on busy nights. The sand fills with makeshift stalls selling buckets – literally the kind of plastic pails children bring to the beach – brimming with whiskey, cola and eye-popping local Red Bull, for just a few dollars. Beach bars boasting floor-to-ceiling speakers blast out ear-shattering electronica until the early hours. Narcotics, violent crime and sexual assault are rife. Nevertheless, with the northern summer in full swing, even more young people from across North America and Europe will descend here, joined by young South Africans, Australians and New Zealanders escaping the southern winter. They risk at the very least their dignity, and at most their lives, to fulfill what is now a backpacker rite of passage.


The name “Full Moon Party” lends a vaguely pagan air to the proceedings, but in truth the gatherings were first held when the moon was at its biggest and brightest for practical reasons. In the 1980s, Koh Phangan was a rough and ready place after dark. Packs of feral dogs roamed, so did muggers. Shootings were a fact of life. However, the brilliant lunar illumination brought relative safety and a brief respite. It was “an evening of getting naked, splashing in the sea, and dancing around imaginary Stonehenges,” recalls Hinshelwood, whose memory of the event can be read at length here. At the inception of the Full Moon Parties, there was no electricity on Haad Rin — aging flower children complained of “colonialism” when it eventually arrived. The festivities centered around tents, campfires and music the party-goers made themselves. All this took place in the incomparable natural setting of the Gulf of Thailand, immortalized through Alex Garland’s novel The Beach and its big screen adaptation staring Leonardo DiCaprio. Joe Cummings, whose Lonely Planet Guide to Thailand has sold countless copies since it first appeared in 1982, visited Haad Rin in 1983 and tells TIME that it was “one of the most beautiful beaches I’d ever seen.” When he next returned in 1989, the Full Moon Party were still intimate affairs, attracting no more than 2,000 people.




-- TIME 2013-07-09

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I love this TOT image of "luxury tourists".

See what has happened on Thong Nai Pan Noi as an example of such development.

Shocking.

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Posted (edited)

Yes when I first went to Koh Phangan in 1987 it was wonderful. Great atmosphere and a refreshing contrast to "touristy" Koh Samui ! Fast fwd to the present day and I refuse to go as I don't want the memories of many visits in the late 80's trashed.

What has become of Koh Chang is an even bigger travesty.. When will the Govt learn that people come looking for unspoilt tropical paradise.. Not 7/11's , Indian tailors and f**kin house music/rap/hip hop !

But how do you cater for 100,000 tourist wanting to go to an unspoilt paradise??

Do you work for TAT ?
Please do not exaggerate the numbers even more than has been of 30,000.
Numbers to this event are written by someone who can not count and gets a bit excited at seeing a lot of people. Numbers have declined over the years and do vary from month to month.
Guide books also put this figure of 30,000, one I read a while ago 40,000 . But I think we all know about guide books, written by idiots that spend 1 day at a place!
Koh Phangan don't get 30-40 thousand tourist all month never mind one night! More accurate numbers would be 5,000 to 10,000 again depending on which month. ( And no I also did not count them) but have showed my face 24 times over the years.
And of those 24 times I have only had small problem myself by a very drunk Thai guy who told me to leave the beach. I stayed of course as a skinny out of his face yaba freak don't tell me S***!.
I read everyday the mess that goes on in the likes of Pattaya Phuket. So if you lot on here are for Ban the FM party, then lets ban Pattaya and Phuket and everywhere that serves Alcohol while your at it . Alcohol is the problem not the party or the people who attend.
The only bit that he got bang on was the unfortunate rape cases that as he points out mostly go un reported.
But if only girls/ women could judge that they are talking to a crazy idiot it might happen less. Lots of girls come here and like to be with the locals. Some of these boys are 5ft high no teeth, legs the size of a westerns arms, speak very bad pigeon English, Dreadlock hair the list could go on. Girls seemed to like to be someone who is different.
If only girls could realize and judge that the person they are talking to is a waste on this planet, these unfortunate things would be far less. And that is not a Thai bash..... We have these tragic case's all over the world, when a man has a known past for violence, alcohol issues, hard drugs the list could go on..... But the Women/Girls are attracted to them.
Edited by bonobo
fixed quotes/new differentiation
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Posted

let them have their fun, as long as its limited to specific areas, who cares. but this is where it gets tricky, zoning here is too confrontational but there needs to be zoning otherwise all hell breaks loose.

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Posted (edited)

I was kind of forced to going to a full moon party two years ago. Long story.

Anyhow, witnessed numerous fights and blooded drunks stumbling about. The beach is filthy.

Never again

Sure you got your bearing right? Sounds to me like you were in Pattayasmile.png

Edited by kohphangan
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Posted

Full Moon Party organizers are a great example of locals wanting to cash in at our expense. After all is said and done, they hate the destruction the event brings. I was recently told by a hotel owners in Koh Phangan that the hotels charge a three day minimum charge for bookings. They know most visitors are going to stay only a day or two. The owner claimed this is true, but the island is quiet for the rest of the month, so the hotels have to make up the revenue somehow...

My thinking was, why don't the hotel owners market more than just the Full Moon Party?

The response I got was the hotel owners don't wish to work daily cleaning rooms, catering to foreigners, and having to deal with us throughout the year, ect, as is the case on Koh Samui.

I was shocked at the owners honesty, but not surprised really.

The only way the hotel staff are remotely interested in looking after us at all,

is for the service charges they receive every month.

If that wasn't in place, then the monthly salary wouldn't provide the level of service we do receive,

when we're lucky to come across the thai's that want to work at all, and not just smile, making us think they like our presence here.

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Posted

Please do not exaggerate the numbers even more than has been of 30,000.

Numbers to this event are written by someone who can not count and gets a bit excited at seeing a lot of people. Numbers have declined over the years and do vary from month to month.

Guide books also put this figure of 30,000, one I read a while ago 40,000 laugh.png. But I think we all know about guide books, written by idiots that spend 1 day at a place!

Koh Phangan don't get 30-40 thousand tourist all month never mind one night! More accurate numbers would be 5,000 to 10,000 again depending on which month. ( And no I also did not count them) but have showed my face 24 times over the years.

Without even going to the full moon party I would have to agree that the numbers cannot be 30,000 to 40,000. Here is some basic maths.

Raja list the passenger capacity of Raja2 and the similar ferries that they run to Thongsala as 350 pax.

times 5 sailing out a day = 1750

Assume the same capacity for the other major ferries (Lomprayah 7 trips, Seatran and Songserm 4 each) = 5250

that gives a total of 7000 people a day which the ferries can move on and off the island (plus the haad rin queen)

so even if the ferries were only carrying people who ant to go to the full moon party they would be fully booked for 4 days after the party to get everyone off the island, assuming 30,000 people at the party, other than December 31st the passenger only ferries are never fully booked for more than a day.

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Posted

What's wrong with listening to house, techno and trance music, I have been since 1988 and I DJ too. I've never been to the Full Moon Party, but went to a Half Moon Party in Chaweng in 2010, very enjoyable!

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Posted

I was recently told by a hotel owners in Koh Phangan that the hotels charge a three day minimum charge for bookings. They know most visitors are going to stay only a day or two. The owner claimed this is true, but the island is quiet for the rest of the month, so the hotels have to make up the revenue somehow...

My thinking was, why don't the hotel owners market more than just the Full Moon Party?

I have been told that for most of Haad Rin it is a 7 day minimum stay because other than the party there is no real reason to go there, other places have shorter or no minimum stay because they are further away and hope they don't get guests who are only there for the party. From the hotel point of view the party is pain, that night you will have drunk guests returning at all hours distrubing other guests, having lost their keys, basically all the things hoteliers hate compressed into a single night.

Most places on Koh Phangan would be happy for other things to be promoted but by the looks for things TAT have just been in China saying the only thing to do on the island is to get drunk one night a month.

Posted

Time and people move on you can never go back to the 1980’s although I am sure there are many beautiful peaceful unspoilt paradise’s still to be found on our planet, and I am also even more sure none of them are in Thailand.

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Posted (edited)

Please do not exaggerate the numbers even more than has been of 30,000.

Numbers to this event are written by someone who can not count and gets a bit excited at seeing a lot of people. Numbers have declined over the years and do vary from month to month.

Guide books also put this figure of 30,000, one I read a while ago 40,000 laugh.png. But I think we all know about guide books, written by idiots that spend 1 day at a place!

Koh Phangan don't get 30-40 thousand tourist all month never mind one night! More accurate numbers would be 5,000 to 10,000 again depending on which month. ( And no I also did not count them) but have showed my face 24 times over the years.

Without even going to the full moon party I would have to agree that the numbers cannot be 30,000 to 40,000. Here is some basic maths.

Raja list the passenger capacity of Raja2 and the similar ferries that they run to Thongsala as 350 pax.

times 5 sailing out a day = 1750

Assume the same capacity for the other major ferries (Lomprayah 7 trips, Seatran and Songserm 4 each) = 5250

that gives a total of 7000 people a day which the ferries can move on and off the island (plus the haad rin queen)

so even if the ferries were only carrying people who ant to go to the full moon party they would be fully booked for 4 days after the party to get everyone off the island, assuming 30,000 people at the party, other than December 31st the passenger only ferries are never fully booked for more than a day.

You're forgetting the dozens of speedboats that dart to/from KPG from Samui all night, each laden with at least 30 pax. I drove past the departure point (Petcherat) before midnight recently & saw around 50 minibuses hogging both sides of the road delivering "Moonies" from all over Samui who were meandering across the road in total darkness...

Edited by evadgib

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