Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently acquired an older Nissan NV Wingroad and I guess its gearbox has a problem.

Symptoms:

- jumpy switch up into 2nd gear

- engine revving too much in general

- tends to switch down and rev when I try to maintain constant speed at 80 Kph

- I developed a technique to switch up in gear by hitting the gas until it revvs enough, then I ease the foot from the pedal for a second, then it switches up

- I currently get only approx 320 Km from a 40l tank. As the engine is small (1.6l), this figure should be around 450-500 Km

suggestions?

I thought to have it checked at a Nissan mech shop.

Posted

Seems more like you have issues with your clutch. A gearbox can be overhauled, but you should check the scrap yards as a second hand one might be cheaper.

Posted

All the symptoms of an old and worn out box/converter, it needs a total overhaul, dont waste money on oil and filter changes,

Posted

All the symptoms of an old and worn out box/converter, it needs a total overhaul, dont waste money on oil and filter changes,

thank you - you seem to know :)

can you please be more specific?

what should I say to the mechanic - what parts to replace?

and what cost range are we looking at?

should I ask the mechanic to use scrap yard parts?

Thanks!

Posted

Seems more like you have issues with your clutch. A gearbox can be overhauled, but you should check the scrap yards as a second hand one might be cheaper.

or it might be the clutch as Jbrain suggests?

P.S.

otherwise the car seems to be in good mechanical condition, so if I can fix that issue, I think I will have a pretty decent ride.

Posted

All the symptoms of an old and worn out box/converter, it needs a total overhaul, dont waste money on oil and filter changes,

thank you - you seem to know smile.png

can you please be more specific?

what should I say to the mechanic - what parts to replace?

and what cost range are we looking at?

should I ask the mechanic to use scrap yard parts?

Thanks!

If you have to tell the mechanic what he has to look for, I think it's time to look for another mechanic smile.png

Posted

All the symptoms of an old and worn out box/converter, it needs a total overhaul, dont waste money on oil and filter changes,

thank you - you seem to know smile.png

can you please be more specific?

what should I say to the mechanic - what parts to replace?

and what cost range are we looking at?

should I ask the mechanic to use scrap yard parts?

Thanks!

If you have to tell the mechanic what he has to look for, I think it's time to look for another mechanic smile.png

well, TiT

Posted

Sounds a bit like the torque converter (no clutch). But, could be many things. Inside the box there are clutch packs, actually very delicate things to look at when you think of the work they have to do. Auto box killer is heat. Older type auto's gear shift was handled by vacuum signals but modern boxes uses other stuff, computer sad.png . Think you need to find a box refurbish-er to test drive.

PS. Pull the dip stick and see what colour the oil is. If brown and smells burnt then big problem, if still pink and smells sweet then there could be hope. Put the oil from the stick on a white tissue, you will see the colour better and look for minute particles (crap).

Posted

Sounds a bit like the torque converter (no clutch). But, could be many things. Inside the box there are clutch packs, actually very delicate things to look at when you think of the work they have to do. Auto box killer is heat. Older type auto's gear shift was handled by vacuum signals but modern boxes uses other stuff, computer sad.png . Think you need to find a box refurbish-er to test drive.

PS. Pull the dip stick and see what colour the oil is. If brown and smells burnt then big problem, if still pink and smells sweet then there could be hope.

you mean the transmission fluid oil, right?

Posted

Sounds a bit like the torque converter (no clutch). But, could be many things. Inside the box there are clutch packs, actually very delicate things to look at when you think of the work they have to do. Auto box killer is heat. Older type auto's gear shift was handled by vacuum signals but modern boxes uses other stuff, computer sad.png . Think you need to find a box refurbish-er to test drive.

PS. Pull the dip stick and see what colour the oil is. If brown and smells burnt then big problem, if still pink and smells sweet then there could be hope.

you mean the transmission fluid oil, right?

Yes, I have edited my post, have another look, will help.

Posted

gearbox issues aside, I've head the economy from the NV was not so good. If the auto is shot, it might be possible to replace it with a manual, if you don't mind driving stick. I'm guessing it's cheaper to replace with a manual, better performance and better economy as well.

Posted

Sounds a bit like the torque converter (no clutch). But, could be many things. Inside the box there are clutch packs, actually very delicate things to look at when you think of the work they have to do. Auto box killer is heat. Older type auto's gear shift was handled by vacuum signals but modern boxes uses other stuff, computer sad.png.pagespeed.ce.5zxzyGiJz0.png . Think you need to find a box refurbish-er to test drive.

PS. Pull the dip stick and see what colour the oil is. If brown and smells burnt then big problem, if still pink and smells sweet then there could be hope.

you mean the transmission fluid oil, right?

Yes, I have edited my post, have another look, will help.

ok, I had a look at the fluid, it is very clear and light pink, although I think it has been replaced one month ago and I have driven only about 700 Km since.

gearbox issues aside, I've head the economy from the NV was not so good. If the auto is shot, it might be possible to replace it with a manual, if you don't mind driving stick. I'm guessing it's cheaper to replace with a manual, better performance and better economy as well.

I might do just that if that's an option.

Posted

I dont really think converting to manual is an option, you will need a clutch pedal, the hydraulics or cable, a flywheel, clutch assembly, perhaps even a longer/shorter propshaft,mountings ect, and certain solenoids disconected or replaced,

You say that the oil is clean and pink, 700ks since, that might be a good sign or a bad one, means that the oil was changed because of problems before you bought the car,

Are there in squealing type noises as it takes up drive?

Posted

I don't know what year it is, but check on the side of the tranny. If there is a round steel cover with a small vacuum hose attached, check that the hose it not cracked and is connected to the intake manifold somewhere. This is the vacuum modulator and is used on older models to signal the trans to shift. If the hose is OK you can easily remove the steel cover and replace the diaphragm behind it.

Next newest uses a TV cable, which is attached to a bracket with the throttle cable, moves with it, and is attached to the trans. Adjustment is per factory specs, so don't know.

Most newest is computer controlled, so find a computer to read the trans computer - at Nissan dealer.

As always when trying to fix things, follow the KISS principal - Keep It Simple Stupid. Check and replace the easiest, cheapest things first.

Posted

Just had a trip to Bangkok and back, and the performance at approx 120 Kph was good, as well as the fuel economy.

No squealing noises.

Can someone please recommend a honest and competent mechanic in Pattaya?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Took the car today to Mr. Sakhda who was recommended in this thread:

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/660222-recommendable-car-mechanic-in-pattaya/

As seedy suggested in his post http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/656648-nissan-nv-auto-gearbox-replacement/#entry6659866

Mr. Sakhda proceeded to adjust the cable between the gearbox and the transmission, and it fixed my problem!

The car isn't revving too much anymore and the jump from 1st into 2nd is gone.

I still have to do the mileage test, but I guess I now use much less gasoline, probably around 20%, that's 300 baht on every tank!

Mr. Sakhda wanted 200 baht for the fix.

I think he's very recommendable, especially for fixing older cars that aren't computer-managed.

I'm very happy!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...