Domestic Electrical Wiring

[Crossy]

robint, 'nuisance trips' are one of the things we are addressing on the website (coming soon I'm afraid).

Recommended action is either :-

Install seperate ELCB units for each power branch (could be expensive in anything other than the simplest installations).

or

Have a "Split Service" consumer unit with certain 'essential' supplies not protected bt the ELCB (fridge, freezer, some lights for emergency exit and possibly your PC), these could also be backed up by your autostart genset (via some simple automatic switching).

The issue of two wire installations will be addressed in the "Help my rented house only has 2 pin outlets" section, again coming soon (I only have so much time to do all this).

One option which is NOT recommended is to leave the ground wire of an appliance floating, if it's got a ground it must be grounded, period!!

[elkangorito]

Fine Elk, have looked at that Crossy site, very nice presentation indeed and a basic description for laypersons. I presume the section on shower heaters will be forthcoming. I always view these installation with extreme suspicion - if they fail you have no chance. Indeed the IEE regs was remarkably superficial about these devices and did not insist that they be fitted with an RCD - very strange.

Hi Robin,

This topic is the culmination of engineering/electrical expertise with physics. None of the info presented by myself or Crossy is 'guesswork'. The 'rules & regs' are one thing & physics are another thing. The 'rules & regs' I speak of, address installations in Australia BUT with the help of simple physics, can be modified to adapt to the conditions of Thailand.

With regard to Hot Water Heaters (the instantaneous type), I would not suggest trusting the 'built-in' earth leakage device unless you know EXACTLY what it can do! Consequently, the only recourse is to properly install a PROPER ELCB/RCD on a dedicated circuit for the Hot Water Heater. See the website for details on Earth Leakage. http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/

[Crossy]

Fine Elk, have looked at that Crossy site, very nice presentation indeed and a basic description for laypersons. I presume the section on shower heaters will be forthcoming. I always view these installation with extreme suspicion - if they fail you have no chance. Indeed the IEE regs was remarkably superficial about these devices and did not insist that they be fitted with an RCD - very strange.

Water heaters will be in the "Bathrooms and other moist places" section.

The IEE regs are VERY strict on equipotential bonding in bathrooms (even more so with the introduction of 'Part P').

A correctly bonded water heater does NOT need an ELCB to be safe (although you should install one). The heater metalwork is electrically connected to all the other metal in the bathroom (including the taps, waste fittings etc) and thence to the ground bar. If it's done correctly and to code it should be IMPOSSIBLE to touch two pieces of metal that are at different potentials, ergo, one cannot get a dangerous shock.

I think I'll do a bit on bonding (as opposed to bondage ), it is one of the most misunderstood areas of electrical installation.

[lopburi3]

The RCB on a heater is a last chance and there knowing that most homes will not have an RCB upstream (where it should be) and many will not even have a ground wire (which is even more important). It could help on a fault that occurred when in you are in contact as it will trip much faster than a circuit breaker so it does offer an added measure of protection even in a grounded circuit. But if you check most home heaters here the wire feeds from the side and is exposed so any fault in that area will not be protected by either grounding or the built in RCB. A pin hole in that wire and your wet hand on it could be fatal without an RCB on the line before it gets into the bath room.

[Nawtilus]

So why does a spark fly out of my power points every time I put a plug in it ??

[lopburi3]

You should first turn of the power switch of whatever it is you are plugging in. Mate the plug into the socket and then turn on the equipment. If it still happens you have bad connections in your sockets (very common here for power strips) and they should be replaced.

[Nawtilus]

Thanks. Yeah happens even without a device attached, say just plugging in an extension cord.

[elkangorito]

Thanks. Yeah happens even without a device attached, say just plugging in an extension cord.

Maybe your GPO (power point) is faulty?

[robint]

You should first turn of the power switch of whatever it is you are plugging in. Mate the plug into the socket and then turn on the equipment. If it still happens you have bad connections in your sockets (very common here for power strips) and they should be replaced.

hi all at the risk of raising everyones hackles

, let me say first that I appreciate that you contributors are all experienced and well meaning practitioners, but I have to point out that armchair advice extrracted from an incomprehensible set of IEE regs (the 16th edition needs a technical lawyer to interpret them) will simply not fit the bill here in the land of lies. For example above, as we all know the average "power" socket is run on the same circuit as lighting. There are no switches on the socket outlets so you cant perform the above recommended practice. The whole system sucks

What we need to focus on is what is practicable here in kingdom.

Another example by Crossy in his website, he showed the newer type of 3 pin socket which, if it has a connected earth pin is indeed an enormous improvement. NOW can somone tell me where I can buy a suitable rewireable 3 pin plug to suit. Homepro has all manner of fancy sockets but not a plug in sight TIT. How can I rewire an appliance to a 3 pin system if I cant find a plug

if I find any in BKK I will post

[robint]

Fine Elk, have looked at that Crossy site, very nice presentation indeed and a basic description for laypersons. I presume the section on shower heaters will be forthcoming. I always view these installation with extreme suspicion - if they fail you have no chance. Indeed the IEE regs was remarkably superficial about these devices and did not insist that they be fitted with an RCD - very strange.

Water heaters will be in the "Bathrooms and other moist places" section.

The IEE regs are VERY strict on equipotential bonding in bathrooms (even more so with the introduction of 'Part P').

A correctly bonded water heater does NOT need an ELCB to be safe (although you should install one). The heater metalwork is electrically connected to all the other metal in the bathroom (including the taps, waste fittings etc) and thence to the ground bar. If it's done correctly and to code it should be IMPOSSIBLE to touch two pieces of metal that are at different potentials, ergo, one cannot get a dangerous shock.

I think I'll do a bit on bonding (as opposed to bondage ), it is one of the most misunderstood areas of electrical installation.

I stopped after the 14th edition but I do remember how disproportioanetly large were the sections on caravan sites and farms

also equibonding in bathrooms. if you followed the guidelines strictly you would have green/yellow wires hanging off everything (the metal knob on the door of a bathroom cabinet.

I remember you had to bond both the hot and cold taps of the bath and the sink complete with the aluminium tag and pipe clamp - looked pretty tacky even though the entire water system was completely connected via copper tubing - if you want to apply fiziks to this then it doesnt stack up

but that was the ruling and it had to be visible so it could be inspected.

they have never heard of this in the LOS and copper tubing is rarely used for plumbing

btw I have received shocks from strange places,

off a brick garden wall (due to a leaky garden light on top of the wall)

off a bakelite switch for the waste desposal (the bakelite had absorbed soda salts from cleaning powders VIM etc and had become conductive) Even the head electrician had never seen such a phenomenon. I could get a neon screwdriver to light up from the plastic cover

[elkangorito]

Fine Elk, have looked at that Crossy site, very nice presentation indeed and a basic description for laypersons. I presume the section on shower heaters will be forthcoming. I always view these installation with extreme suspicion - if they fail you have no chance. Indeed the IEE regs was remarkably superficial about these devices and did not insist that they be fitted with an RCD - very strange.

Water heaters will be in the "Bathrooms and other moist places" section.

The IEE regs are VERY strict on equipotential bonding in bathrooms (even more so with the introduction of 'Part P').

A correctly bonded water heater does NOT need an ELCB to be safe (although you should install one). The heater metalwork is electrically connected to all the other metal in the bathroom (including the taps, waste fittings etc) and thence to the ground bar. If it's done correctly and to code it should be IMPOSSIBLE to touch two pieces of metal that are at different potentials, ergo, one cannot get a dangerous shock.

I think I'll do a bit on bonding (as opposed to bondage ), it is one of the most misunderstood areas of electrical installation.

I stopped after the 14th edition but I do remember how disproportioanetly large were the sections on caravan sites and farms

also equibonding in bathrooms. if you followed the guidelines strictly you would have green/yellow wires hanging off everything (the metal knob on the door of a bathroom cabinet.

I remember you had to bond both the hot and cold taps of the bath and the sink complete with the aluminium tag and pipe clamp - looked pretty tacky even though the entire water system was completely connected via copper tubing - if you want to apply fiziks to this then it doesnt stack up

but that was the ruling and it had to be visible so it could be inspected.

they have never heard of this in the LOS and copper tubing is rarely used for plumbing

btw I have received shocks from strange places,

off a brick garden wall (due to a leaky garden light on top of the wall)

off a bakelite switch for the waste desposal (the bakelite had absorbed soda salts from cleaning powders VIM etc and had become conductive) Even the head electrician had never seen such a phenomenon. I could get a neon screwdriver to light up from the plastic cover

It's a good thing that 'bakelite' is now rarely used since it has been replaced with PVC, ABS & polycarbonates. Avoid 'bakelite' products.

Since most plumbing in Thailand is PVC, 'equipotential bonding' cannot be performed. I therefore think that placing the 'bathroom' on a separate (dedicated) power circuit with it's own ELCB, would be a good idea. Please bear in mind that if any GPO's (power points) are to be installed into the bathroom, they MUST be placed at least 2 metres (horizontal axis) away from water outlets or water storage areas & at least 0.5 metres (vertical axis) above water outlets or water storage areas. Increase these distances to enhance safety.

As for the leaky garden light, was it a 'conductive' fitting? If so, correct earthing together with an MEN link could have prevented this. Remember, only one earth rod is required & if installed correctly, will suffice for the whole installation.

Maybe Crossy, Lop or Bronco could add to these suggestions?

[lopburi3]

You should first turn of the power switch of whatever it is you are plugging in. Mate the plug into the socket and then turn on the equipment. If it still happens you have bad connections in your sockets (very common here for power strips) and they should be replaced.

///cut// For example above, as we all know the average "power" socket is run on the same circuit as lighting. There are no switches on the socket outlets so you cant perform the above recommended practice. The whole system sucks

//cut//

if I find any in BKK I will post

What I was trying to say is turn off the equipment before you plug it in. That way if the positive lug makes contact first there will not be a complete circuit for a spark to neutral (or worse). The outlet should not spark unless it is defective with the equipment turned off or it just being an extension cord with nothing making a complete circuit. Unfortunately the use of multi system outlets most of the time here means a severe compromise in quality of connections and if you buy cheap you get cheap metal that bends out of shape.

[Crossy]

Another example by Crossy in his website, he showed the newer type of 3 pin socket which, if it has a connected earth pin is indeed an enormous improvement. NOW can somone tell me where I can buy a suitable rewireable 3 pin plug to suit. Homepro has all manner of fancy sockets but not a plug in sight TIT. How can I rewire an appliance to a 3 pin system if I cant find a plug

HomePro have the rewirable 3 pin plugs, but you have to hunt for them and there is not much choice (one IIRC).

In the Rangsit branch they are on the next aisle from all the other plugs etc. f@@k knows why, TiT I suppose.

The alternative for your kitchen appliances with the Schuko type plug is an adapter to correctly connects the ground (see the 'Plugs sockets etc' page on the site). I also note that the correct Schuko sockets are available, again in HomePro to replace the regular outlets where you want to plug in your appliances.

[lopburi3]

I have not have any trouble buying the US (computer) type three pin plugs from local hardware stores here in Bangkok. As the adapter for the Schuko plug covers more than half a normal outlet you can not use two so I have replaced them in several instances with the US type.

[Crossy]

It's a good thing that 'bakelite' is now rarely used since it has been replaced with PVC, ABS & polycarbonates. Avoid 'bakelite' products.

Wonderful stuff Bakelite, you could find an overheated outlet by smell

Since most plumbing in Thailand is PVC, 'equipotential bonding' cannot be performed. I therefore think that placing the 'bathroom' on a separate (dedicated) power circuit with it's own ELCB, would be a good idea. Please bear in mind that if any GPO's (power points) are to be installed into the bathroom, they MUST be placed at least 2 metres (horizontal axis) away from water outlets or water storage areas & at least 0.5 metres (vertical axis) above water outlets or water storage areas. Increase these distances to enhance safety.

Agreed 100%, I only mentioned EP bonding because a query re 16th edition was raised

Maybe Crossy, Lop or Bronco could add to these suggestions?

The only absolutely safe bathroom outlet is one that is not installed!! That is my ultimate advice for anone considering a new build.

[elkangorito]

It's a good thing that 'bakelite' is now rarely used since it has been replaced with PVC, ABS & polycarbonates. Avoid 'bakelite' products.

Wonderful stuff Bakelite, you could find an overheated outlet by smell

Since most plumbing in Thailand is PVC, 'equipotential bonding' cannot be performed. I therefore think that placing the 'bathroom' on a separate (dedicated) power circuit with it's own ELCB, would be a good idea. Please bear in mind that if any GPO's (power points) are to be installed into the bathroom, they MUST be placed at least 2 metres (horizontal axis) away from water outlets or water storage areas & at least 0.5 metres (vertical axis) above water outlets or water storage areas. Increase these distances to enhance safety.

Agreed 100%, I only mentioned EP bonding because a query re 16th edition was raised

Maybe Crossy, Lop or Bronco could add to these suggestions?

The only absolutely safe bathroom outlet is one that is not installed!! That is my ultimate advice for anone considering a new build.

I fully agree Crossy. The only truly safe bathroom does not have any GPO's installed. But this brings to light what people do to overcome the 'no power' situation in a bathroom. If a bathroom exists without any power outlets, then a person may be likely to employ extension leads, which run along a possibly wet floor. This can certainly be a VERY dangerous situation since extension leads may not be polarised correctly & may end up lying in water. The idea behind Oz regs, is to prevent such things by installing GPO's in a 'wet area' but under STRICT GUIDELINES.

Almost everybody I know likes to blow dry their hair or use an electrical shaver in the bathroom. To not do so would mean the addition of another room in the house, especially for these purposes. If you live by yourself, there is generally no problem but living with a family, most of whom wake at different times, can be a problem if some are awakened by shavers & hair dryers in the morning because these devices have to be used OUT of the bathroom (usually in a bedroom where others are sleeping).

It appears that 'people will be people' & I don't think that any measure of safety can protect them from themselves. I'm sure that we could make up a million rules but I'm also sure that these rules would very quickly be broken.

Again, I agree with you Crossy...a safe bathroom is a bathroom without electrical outlets.

[Crossy]

Us Brits are used to no power in the bathroom, full electrical outlets have been outlawed for many many years (like the late 1950s).

We used to have 'shaver outlets' (with an isolating transformer) to run the shaver but I understand that even these are not permitted in new installations, my dad uses a rechargable shaver (I wet shave, uses no power).

Wifey uses the dryer in the bedroom, apparently she got a tickle (electrical, not what you're thinking ) in the bathroom years back, now she won't use any electrical device there.

EDIT: BTW, my bathroom here in LOS isn't big enough to get the outlet 2m from the water sources

[elkangorito]

Us Brits are used to no power in the bathroom, full electrical outlets have been outlawed for many many years (like the late 1950s).

We used to have 'shaver outlets' (with an isolating transformer) to run the shaver but I understand that even these are not permitted in new installations, my dad uses a rechargable shaver (I wet shave, uses no power).

Wifey uses the dryer in the bedroom, apparently she got a tickle (electrical, not what you're thinking ) in the bathroom years back, now she won't use any electrical device there.

Educating people is a slow process, unless others are constantly surrounded by people like you or me Crossy.

My sister has, on a previous occassion, asked me to install a GPO in the bathroom (where none was previously installed). I refused. I also asked her what she would do as a result of me not installing a GPO. She then told me that she would use an extension lead. I ALMOST DIED!!!!! At this point, I did install a GPO in the bathroom but it was very well away from all water storage points & water outlets. I guess that I'm happier with her knowing that she will not have extensions leads draped all over the bathroom.

It will be quite a while before some Westerners begin to change their minds about GPO's in wet areas.

[jimmi]

Thanks guys for the heads up on such an important topic. I went through my house here in Isaan and looked at my electical system with what little experience I have. I have no earthed circuits in my house. Understanding how dangerous this was, I found an electrician that looks like he knows what he's doing. I showed him the drawings and information from this thread and he understands what I want. I am going to have my electrical system in this house replaced. Fortunately all the electrical cables are on the outside of the wall were we can get to them. We went down to the electical shop to get the items he needed. Work will not start for two days though while he finishes another job. What bothers me are the circuit breakers he got. I have a 15 amp meter for this house. I know, it's not alot . I got a Square D box with Square D circuit breakers. The main breaker is 63 amp. The individual breakers are; four breakers at 32 amps, two breakers at 20 amps, and two at 16 amps. The 32s are for the hot water heaters, the air conditioning and the washing machine and water pump. The others are for lighting and electical plugs. Are the amps for the breakers sound right to you, or are the amp ratings too high ? Also he got a (one) Safe-T-Cut Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. This thing is rated at 63 amps. Should this be wired to all the circuits , or just ones involving water like hot water heater, washing machine and water pump. Or should I have more than one?

Thanks for all your help,

Jimmi

[lopburi3]

The meter will say 15/45 or 5/15. If it is 15/45 the 63amp breaker is the normal install here. If you only have 5/15 you do not have enough power for what you have in house.

The breakers sound like what is normally used although do not believe you need 32 amp for washer or pump (or even airconditioner). I would use 20 amp for air and normal 16 amp for pump and washer unless they have very high VA requirements listed on label.

As mentioned it is often not wise to wire everything to the same RCB but in a private small home and with only one breaker panel you don't have too many options if the panel is to be protected and extra parts not used (you could do it by cutting bus or buying a split bus panel; but I would not have a local electrician do so unless experienced). The normal Thai electrician will bypass the Safe-T-Cut by tapping its input for air conditioning and placing breakers next to units. If you have a breaker before the Safe-T-Cut you can consider doing that; but if not the wire from panel to the air conditioner will have no overload protection until it blows the meter. Not good.

After he does his work make sure all the grounds work in the outlets as they often "forget" to tie ground wires together. He should have a meter and read 220 volts from hot to neutral and the same from hot to ground.

[Crossy]

I agree with Lop

20A for power, 16A for lighting, fine

32A does seem large for aircon, but they do take a big surge on power-up, you should really have 20A 'motor' (slow trip) breakers, but that's probably going to confuse the issue, the 32's aint going to go out on power-up but watch he uses sufficiently large cable (6mm).

Check the rating of your washer, there should be a plate with Amps or Watts specified, to get Amps from Watts divide by 220. If it's a regular Thai / Oz / Euro jobbie then a 20A will be more than enough for it and the pump. A big Yankee beast will need a big Yankee breaker.

[jimmi]

Thanks Lopburi3,

I went out to my meter to make sure what it is. The meter does say 15/45. Not exactly sure what that means. I thought the 32 was a little too much and asked about the 20 amp. He and the guy at home pro said this is what they use in Thailand. I still have the reciept for the breakers. Would you recommend I take them back and replace the 32 amp for 20 amp?

I am not 100% sure what you are saying about the Safe-T Cut. Just so I am clear about how this thing gets wired, does this get wired directly to the main wires coming in from the street before the main circuit breaker for the house?

Is there any thing esle that I may be missing? The wire/cable he is going to use is 300v PVC/PVC 70C VAF-GRD 2x4/2.5 black, green, white. The earthing rod it 1.5cm x 2.5 meters.

Thanks again as you guys are truely life savers with this thread.

Jimmi

[lopburi3]

Those big Yankee beasts don't use that much electric - suspect a front loader from Europe with a heater is what he may have and the heater would probably need a large breaker. Top loaders just using cool water should not draw that much power.

[jimmi]

The washing machines I have are typical Thai machines. I have two. The big one is a single drum Samsung 11kg and the plate says it uses 3 amps. The smaller one is a LG single drum at 5.5kg. could not read the amps on this one as something blocks my view. I would have to move the machine but I don't want to do this as it is currently level. I am sure it uses less amps than my bigger machine.

Thanks Crossy and Lop your help and anyone else is very welcome.

Jimmi

[Crossy]

The washing machines I have are typical Thai machines. I have two. The big one is a single drum Samsung 11kg and the plate says it uses 3 amps. The smaller one is a LG single drum at 5.5kg. could not read the amps on this one as something blocks my view. I would have to move the machine but I don't want to do this as it is currently level. I am sure it uses less amps than my bigger machine.

Thanks Crossy and Lop your help and anyone else is very welcome.

Jimmi

At those ratings they'll be fine plugged into the regular power circuit

2.5mm cable will be fine for your power and lighting (1.5 is actually ok for lighting).

Check the rating plates of your aircons, 2.5 will be big enough if they are less than 15A, more and you will need 4mm.

The wire from the main earth bar in your distribution board to the earth stake should be at least 6mm, preferably 10mm.

Remember to ask your man about the MEN link, only install it if the MEN system is implemented in your area (show him on the diagram).

[jimmi]

Thanks Cros.

I think I should be fine as my aircon is 7.4 amps. I showed him the diagram and specifically pointed out and ask about the MEN link. He said he understands and can do it (let's hope so). The wire we are going to use for the main earth bar in my distribution board to the earth stake is PVC 750v 70c 10mm.

I still don't know, can you tell me what the numbers on my outside meter means? The amp rating is 15/45. What does that mean?

[whimsy]

Thanks to the sparkies contributing here. Great info. Crossy, your website is excellent and over time should become a well used resource. Hope you find the time to complete it.

[Crossy]

Thanks Cros.

I think I should be fine as my aircon is 7.4 amps. I showed him the diagram and specifically pointed out and ask about the MEN link. He said he understands and can do it (let's hope so). The wire we are going to use for the main earth bar in my distribution board to the earth stake is PVC 750v 70c 10mm.

I still don't know, can you tell me what the numbers on my outside meter means? The amp rating is 15/45. What does that mean?

15/45 on the meter means you have the bigger (45Amp??) supply, 63A breaker is correct for this supply.

With only 7.5A aircon, I would be tempted to use 20A breakers, mine are 20A but I can't see the ratings of the aircon (high up and dark). Anybody confirm my temptation????

Good choice for the earth link.

However the man wires your Safe-T-Cut (before or after your 63A breaker) you MUST make sure that the MEN link is connected to the INCOMING neutral, i.e. BEFORE it enters the Safe-T-Cut. This is vital to ensure the RCD functions correctly. If the MEN link is connected after the RCD then it will never trip with a simple L-E leak, not really what you want.

Both myself and elkangorito really don't like the adjustable RCD's that are popular here, as I say on the website they tend to be wound up to the maximum trip current 'so they won't trip'. The ideal 'Western' solution is a combined RCD / MCB as your incoming breaker, these may or may not be available in your area. If you do use the adjustable unit, keep it set to lower than 30mA.

[elkangorito]

Guys (not Crossy),

Just to highlight some points previously mentioned...circuit breakers ONLY PROTECT CABLES!!! THEY DO NOT PROTECT EQUIPMENT!!!

The following will show the cables sizes for the appropriate circuit breaker;

1.5 millimetre squared cable - 15 amp MAXIMUM circuit breaker.

2.5 millimetre squared cable - 20 amp maximum circuit breaker.

4 millimetre squared cable - 25 amp maximum circuit breaker.

6 millimetre squared cable - 32 amp maximum circuit breaker.

10 millimetre squared cable - 40 amp maximum circuit breaker.

It doesn't matter what sort of kilowatthour meter you have. This relates to 'maximum demand', which shall be discussed soon. It is generally non consequential.

If you have appliances that are 'high power' (greater than 10 amps) electric motors, it is advised that these appliances be supplied by their own circuit breaker. The circuit breaker should be rated to the circuit's cable size (see above). Also, the circuit breaker should be of the 'motor start' variety. 'Motor start' circuit breakers are different from normal circuit breakers. For example, you have an air conditioner that uses 15 amps. You will most probably be able to use a normal 20 amp circuit breaker to feed this unit (2.5 millimetre squared cable), providing that the unit has a dedicated circuit. If the unit draws close to 20 amps, then it is advisable to use a 'motor start' circuit breaker for this appliance, and still only on a dedicated circuit.

All cables should be rated to at least 600 to 1000 volts. (0.6/1kV) @ a minimum of 75 degrees Celsius.

Do not confuse 'switches' with 'circuit breakers'. Switches will still have a current rating but they will not trip in the event of an overload. You can have a main switch that is not a circuit breaker (aka "non auto" breaker).

Make sure your electrician does NOT exceed the cable sizes mentioned above.

As far as MEN links are concerned when re-wiring a friends house in Klaeng, I inspected the local distribution transformers for a 'star point' earth. I discovered that only a few of them had an earth. As a result, I connected my friends installation as an MEN system. On a voltmeter, I was able to measure 220 volts compared to earth. This meant that at least I had a circuit. Generally speaking, most places that are not too rural, will have an MEN system BUT nobody can be sure about this. I'm sure your (Thai) electrician will not know anything about this. At this point, you can install an MEN system, as it will give you added protection. But if there is no real MEN system, then what you have done will not hurt, providing you have an adequate earthing system. Can you trust your Thai electrician?

I strongly suggest downloading all the info from Crossy's site & ensuring that these things are adhered to.

[Crossy]

Thanks Cros.

I think I should be fine as my aircon is 7.4 amps. I showed him the diagram and specifically pointed out and ask about the MEN link. He said he understands and can do it (let's hope so). The wire we are going to use for the main earth bar in my distribution board to the earth stake is PVC 750v 70c 10mm.

I still don't know, can you tell me what the numbers on my outside meter means? The amp rating is 15/45. What does that mean?

Jimmi.

You may wish to configure your new electrics as a Split Service system. I've just updated the site to include the wiring for this, look on the Consumer Unit page "A more Elegant Solution".

You should be able to do this with the kit you've got although you might need to take a hacksaw to your neutral bar

http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/