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How long does a Fortuner last?


kurnell

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Our turbo broke at 150,000 kms. Had to be replaced for an original Toyota part at the dealer at 60k baht. We tried a second hand solution but that was a waste of money as it didn't work.

Other than that, car has been great for 7 years. Knock on wood.

Good advert for synthetic oil and letting engine idle for a while before shutdown.

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My early 2005 gasoline model has done just under 180k without fault. On its third battery, All original filament lamps. Only replacements have been both rear shocks which had a slight oil weep. Valve cover gasket that had a slight leak. Regular 10k service at Toyota agent. Tyres rotated every 20k, Now on second set replaced when the original Bridgestone Duellers showed wearbar indicators at around 165k so put new Duellers on as replacements. Gives me 10.1 kpl on Gasahol 95.

I just replaced both front seat belts as a precaution against age related faults. They are replaced as a complete assembly, belt, retract and locking mechanism at around THb 1100 each side.The belts harden due to actinic degradation over the years although the car has always been shade parked at home.

This car does all that I want since she is flexible enough to carry loads or seven people when requires and with all wheel drive and low-ratio gearbox has plugged us through many off road trails and I am well satisfied with her.

I made a conscious decision to not buy diesel since I can't stand that death rattle and the stench of fumes as witnessed by the rows of oil burners parked locked and unoccupied at gas stations presumably to keep the AC running or cool the turbocharger!

If gasoline shifts higher in price then I have the option to add an LPG tank to reduce fuel costs.

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when take my car for service at the official dealer, they always ask me what needs to be done? i just answer ckeck everything and replace what is neede. dont they have a ckecklist for every 10k km? like the time belt, will they chqnge that too or will i have to tell them ? will have 100k soon

A pet peeve of mine.

Take a vehicle into any dealer for an official service as indicated in the manual. Tell them you want the 20k km service or whatever, and they ask you what you want them to check and do. :huh:

Instead of saying, okay the 20k km service, the service manual here suggests we inspect these parts, and replace these parts. We will do that (or at least pretend to) and let you know of anything else we see.

I have learned that for every service here I research it all, type up an exact list of what I want inspected, replaced, and done (lubing cables etc. on my motorcycle), and hand it over to the manager while going through it verbally.

I still wouldn't trust/believe them to actually inspect anything though. :rolleyes:

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I basically ditched the book at 100,000k. As long as you do the oil at about every 15-20k and all the other fluids every 60k or so, you'll be fine. An annual visual underneath for weeping shocks etc should tell you a lot too if you hadn't noticed it wallowing on corners already.

That plus bushings once they rattle and or creak. Belts same. There's few things that go wrong without tell tale noises to accompany them. Trick is to notice and address those things instead of ignoring them as the majority of people do. Preventative maintenance.

Be pro active as opposed to reactive and your vehicle will last a very long time irrespective of make.

Trick is to notice and address those things instead of ignoring them as the majority of people do.

Preventative maintenance.

Be pro active as opposed to reactive and your vehicle will last a very long time irrespective of make.

(3) Excellent points!!

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You gotta be kidding, those early Landcruisers rusted away faster than you could say "Landrover"

There are still thousands of them on the road in Australia. Lots of rusty ones true, but that's because the people that owned them didn't think twice about driving them through rivers or lakes, or using them to launch boats semi-submerged in sea water :)

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You gotta be kidding, those early Landcruisers rusted away faster than you could say "Landrover"

There are still thousands of them on the road in Australia. Lots of rusty ones true, but that's because the people that owned them didn't think twice about driving them through rivers or lakes, or using them to launch boats semi-submerged in sea water smile.png

Most rides rust from the inside out, not the outside in. whistling.gif If one is near salt water then a bit different BUT that can even work from the inside out. smile.png

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Our turbo broke at 150,000 kms. Had to be replaced for an original Toyota part at the dealer at 60k baht. We tried a second hand solution but that was a waste of money as it didn't work.

Other than that, car has been great for 7 years. Knock on wood.

Good advert for synthetic oil and letting engine idle for a while before shutdown.

Yeah we were completely neglecting any turbo care. Not anymore, we aren't. ;) even got a turbo timer installed though that's overkill - it's rare that you'd really need it. Also not flooring the pedal when the engine is cold anymore...

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Our turbo broke at 150,000 kms. Had to be replaced for an original Toyota part at the dealer at 60k baht. We tried a second hand solution but that was a waste of money as it didn't work.

Other than that, car has been great for 7 years. Knock on wood.

When your turbo broke, what symptoms did you experience?

First it made a whining noise. A high pitched whistle easy to hear when the window is down - you have to accelerate to get the turbo to engage but it happens at low speeds too. Then it would stop working occasionally which is when we replaced it. You hit the accelerator and nothing much happens, basically. Dangerous on overtaking, it happened to my wife when she was going over the mountains and trying to pass someone.

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Our turbo broke at 150,000 kms. Had to be replaced for an original Toyota part at the dealer at 60k baht. We tried a second hand solution but that was a waste of money as it didn't work.

Other than that, car has been great for 7 years. Knock on wood.

When your turbo broke, what symptoms did you experience?

First it made a whining noise. A high pitched whistle easy to hear when the window is down - you have to accelerate to get the turbo to engage but it happens at low speeds too. Then it would stop working occasionally which is when we replaced it. You hit the accelerator and nothing much happens, basically. Dangerous on overtaking, it happened to my wife when she was going over the mountains and trying to pass someone.

Yeah we were completely neglecting any turbo care. Not anymore, we aren't. wink.png even got a turbo timer installed though that's overkill - it's rare that you'd really need it. Also not flooring the pedal when the engine is cold anymore...

Thnx, now we diesel noobies can better know what to expect. thumbsup.gif

What are your suggestions for an owner to keep a turbo in good running order?

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I remember back in the 80's and 90's most turbo diesels came with a timer that counted down like a minute after starting them before you could drive off, and leaving them to idle for a minute before turning off the engine. My dad taught me to drive in a turbo diesel pickup and he was very explicit about that.

I guess technology is better nowadays but it still couldn't hurt!

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Well it should last well, TNT, Kerry Express and most Parcel Delivery firms use the base model. Reliabilty is Toyos strong point.coffee1.gif

From my personal observation I would suggest a very large percentage of delivery vehicles used by the companies mentioned are not Fortuners but rather low grade vigo's that are LPG fuelled.

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I remember back in the 80's and 90's most turbo diesels came with a timer that counted down like a minute after starting them before you could drive off, and leaving them to idle for a minute before turning off the engine. My dad taught me to drive in a turbo diesel pickup and he was very explicit about that.

I guess technology is better nowadays but it still couldn't hurt!

The Vigo handbook does state idling times before shutdown. thumbsup.gif

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You gotta be kidding, those early Landcruisers rusted away faster than you could say "Landrover"

There are still thousands of them on the road in Australia. Lots of rusty ones true, but that's because the people that owned them didn't think twice about driving them through rivers or lakes, or using them to launch boats semi-submerged in sea water smile.png

Thousands ? Maybe, but they either live in dry areas or have new bodies several times over. We had a new diesel cab chassis in 77 or 78. It was a farm truck so saw it share of mud and slush but that body design was a rust trap. The original front guards rusted completely away in about 3 years, quickly followed by the doors, floor, roof and flanges between the upper and lower body. There were plenty of other similar at the time. Toyota had the advantage of the Patrols and Landrovers having other problems.

I remember back in the 80's and 90's most turbo diesels came with a timer that counted down like a minute after starting them before you could drive off, and leaving them to idle for a minute before turning off the engine. My dad taught me to drive in a turbo diesel pickup and he was very explicit about that.

I guess technology is better nowadays but it still couldn't hurt!

Turbo design has improved a lot, the early heavy diesel turbos before water cooling recommended 3 - 5 minutes cool down period, and dramatically reduced oil and air filter intervals.

Modern water cooled turbos are less susceptible to bearing damage but air and oil quality is still critical.

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Anybody got a Fortuner with 300,000km on the clock?

Sent from my iPhone using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

My brother in law in Jomtien has a Fortuner. Its 6 years old, and he has had it from new. Petrol engine, and he has just clocked up 290,000km. It still runs very well.

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Anybody got a Fortuner with 300,000km on the clock?

Sent from my iPhone using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

My brother in law in Jomtien has a Fortuner. Its 6 years old, and he has had it from new. Petrol engine, and he has just clocked up 290,000km. It still runs very well.

Does he live on the moon?

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You gotta be kidding, those early Landcruisers rusted away faster than you could say "Landrover"

There are still thousands of them on the road in Australia. Lots of rusty ones true, but that's because the people that owned them didn't think twice about driving them through rivers or lakes, or using them to launch boats semi-submerged in sea water smile.png

Thousands ? Maybe, but they either live in dry areas or have new bodies several times over. We had a new diesel cab chassis in 77 or 78. It was a farm truck so saw it share of mud and slush but that body design was a rust trap. The original front guards rusted completely away in about 3 years, quickly followed by the doors, floor, roof and flanges between the upper and lower body. There were plenty of other similar at the time. Toyota had the advantage of the Patrols and Landrovers having other problems.

I remember back in the 80's and 90's most turbo diesels came with a timer that counted down like a minute after starting them before you could drive off, and leaving them to idle for a minute before turning off the engine. My dad taught me to drive in a turbo diesel pickup and he was very explicit about that.

I guess technology is better nowadays but it still couldn't hurt!

Turbo design has improved a lot, the early heavy diesel turbos before water cooling recommended 3 - 5 minutes cool down period, and dramatically reduced oil and air filter intervals.

Modern water cooled turbos are less susceptible to bearing damage but air and oil quality is still critical.

Does the Fortuner have a water cooled turbo?

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And pros and cons between water or oil cooled?

Tuna/Vigo is oil cooled.

Spoonman may be right, but there are a lot of adds for 1KD-FTV turbos claiming they are water cooled.

Water cooled turbos are supposed to be less vulnerable to damage if the engine is shut off when hot.

The only disadvantage I have heard suggested is the extra plumbing and connections are not worthwhile for engines that do not generate a lot of heat.

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