Naked?

[MJP]

Singh-Ray

Had to look that brand up to be sure we weren't talking about beer glasses which does distort one's images.

I'm guilty of using Tiffen filters on my GH2 and migrated them over to the Olympus 12-40 f/2.8 lens and will probably replace that with a higher quality brand. You seem to go for B&W, what about Rodenstock? I can get both brands at Avcamera.

B+W or Heliopan.

Go with B+W.

[ETatBKK]

As I have earlier purchased lens protector for the lens. Do you normally let the protector be 'permanently' installed to the lens or do you remove it when you install another filter to the camera? Eg. Does the extra lens protector filter affect to the photo quality so much that it's worth of removing while using another filter?

I used to remove the protector, then install the designated filter.

keeping any optical element in front of the lens to a minimum distance, that avoids any unexpected optical deterioration. just an extreme example, setting a star filter 10mm in front of the lens, has a slightly different optical effect than the filter is just 5mm in front of the lens.

similarly, while shooting behind the window, I push my lens as close as possible to the glass. unless I want to use the glass as an optical effect.

[MJP]

As I have earlier purchased lens protector for the lens. Do you normally let the protector be 'permanently' installed to the lens or do you remove it when you install another filter to the camera? Eg. Does the extra lens protector filter affect to the photo quality so much that it's worth of removing while using another filter?

I used to remove the protector, then install the designated filter.

keeping any optical element in front of the lens to a minimum distance, that avoids any unexpected optical deterioration. just an extreme example, setting a star filter 10mm in front of the lens, has a slightly different optical effect than the filter is just 5mm in front of the lens.

similarly, while shooting behind the window, I push my lens as close as possible to the glass. unless I want to use the glass as an optical effect.

I use a combination of B+W or Singh-Ray filters and Hoya red ring hoods. These are excellent.

[Satcommlee]

What am I doing here????

Totally conned by the thread title...

[MJP]

What am I doing here????

Totally conned by the thread title...

Well, it started if I recall about camera straps and has since moved on.

I keep meaning to start a thread on filters and hoods, but . . . well where do people find the time?

[Guest]

I used to remove the protector, then install the designated filter.

keeping any optical element in front of the lens to a minimum distance, that avoids any unexpected optical deterioration. just an extreme example, setting a star filter 10mm in front of the lens, has a slightly different optical effect than the filter is just 5mm in front of the lens.

similarly, while shooting behind the window, I push my lens as close as possible to the glass. unless I want to use the glass as an optical effect.

For me, personally, I tend to go for the easiest solution as long as it's practical enough. Therefore not removing the lens protector is the way I opt to go unless there is a good reason not to. I'm lazy and try to optimise the steps as much I can.

If you shoot from behind the window, you'll shoot through it, regardless how far you are from the window. When compared to the lens protector, it's the case as when you put the camera so close to the window that no light can enter to the lens between the lens and the window. In both cases the clarity of the protector glass as well as the window glass, is the key wether to remove it or not, hence the question what to do.

When changing the distance from the lens to a star filter, it changes the angles and the amount of light which can get to the lens and sensor. Kind of taking a picture through a short pipe.

[ETatBKK]

yeah, I know these solutions available, and I guess no different under 99.99% situation.

the concept of keeping minimum distance between filter and lens element, is actually suggested by a lot of filter manufacturers, including B+W, especially on the gelatine filter holders.

I didn't prove if it critically affects the optical quality, I just keep it as a concept when I install any optical media in front of the lens.

As I have earlier purchased lens protector for the lens. Do you normally let the protector be 'permanently' installed to the lens or do you remove it when you install another filter to the camera? Eg. Does the extra lens protector filter affect to the photo quality so much that it's worth of removing while using another filter?

I used to remove the protector, then install the designated filter.

keeping any optical element in front of the lens to a minimum distance, that avoids any unexpected optical deterioration. just an extreme example, setting a star filter 10mm in front of the lens, has a slightly different optical effect than the filter is just 5mm in front of the lens.

similarly, while shooting behind the window, I push my lens as close as possible to the glass. unless I want to use the glass as an optical effect.

I use a combination of B+W or Singh-Ray filters and Hoya red ring hoods. These are excellent.

[ETatBKK]

hmm , , , I guess it was a wrong example on shooting through the window. reason of being close to the window glass, just avoid the reflection on the glass as well as the possible refraction ( or scratches ) through the window glass.

personally I just follow this concept, just a choice.

If you shoot from behind the window, you'll shoot through it, regardless how far you are from the window. When compared to the lens protector, it's the case as when you put the camera so close to the window that no light can enter to the lens between the lens and the window. In both cases the clarity of the protector glass as well as the window glass, is the key wether to remove it or not, hence the question what to do.

[Forethat]

I really wish I was able to protect and take better care of my gear. Don't get me wrong, every time I get a new piece of kit I'm thinking; "I'll take good care of this one". But I always fail. I put it down to the amount of stuff I'm carrying if I'm shooting a sports event or if I'm on a location in the sticks trying to beat the clock or light (I end up in that situation ALL the time).

Being in a hurry is the real killer; carrying two or three bodies over your shoulder in three straps and they WILL get nicks when you're in a hurry even if you set the straps at three different heights. Lens hoods are my best friends, if it wasn't for them my lenses would look like shit. The UV-filters (talk about commercial scam) should be considered front element protectors.

To be honest, nicks, dings and scuffs are non-issues. Spending two days at a windy beach will put so much sand and dust in your gear it's scary, and that could have an impact on the functionality and/or quality. I'm shooting a darts event during Christmas and know from experience that I will have at least three pints poured over a body on my back or my hip.

I am always punished when I try to sell something, so for that reason I rarely do unless I replace it.

Edited December 14, 2014 by Forethat

[MJP]

I really wish I was able to protect and take better care of my gear. Don't get me wrong, every time I get a new piece of kit I'm thinking; "I'll take good care of this one". But I always fail. I put it down to the amount of stuff I'm carrying if I'm shooting a sports event or if I'm on a location in the sticks trying to beat the clock or light (I end up in that situation ALL the time).

Being in a hurry is the real killer; carrying two or three bodies over your shoulder in three straps and they WILL get nicks when you're in a hurry even if you set the straps at three different heights. Lens hoods are my best friends, if it wasn't for them my lenses would look like shit. The UV-filters (talk about commercial scam) should be considered front element protectors.

To be honest, nicks, dings and scuffs are non-issues. Spending two days at a windy beach will put so much sand and dust in your gear it's scary. I'm shooting a darts event during Christmas and know from experience that I will have at least three pints poured over the bodies on my back and my hip.

I am always punished when I try to sell something, so for that reason I rarely do unless I replace it.

Yup, same as that. More gear, more rush, more damage.

I use the red ring Hoya rubber lens hoods and B+W MRC Nano clear filters. Keep it light with the A7r with L-bracket in a Domke F-6 or F-9, limit the lenses to what will actually be used, which is generally only the Zeiss FE 55/1.8 these days, or the Pentax-FA 31mm Limited for wider. With the 55/1.8 you can crop till you drop on the A7r so no need for tele lenses.

Sometimes use a monopod/Carryspeed strap combo, this works well.

Less is more.

[rhythmworx]

the B+W 10 stop "Big Stopper" is great for long exposures

i just picked up a Hoya Pro ND 1000 for my Tokina 11-16 . . . a cool 10 stopper too, and only £56 on ebay. Bargain.

Judging by the case the filter in the image is not genuine. I only ever buy filters from official Hoya retailers.

They are the most counterfeited brand filter.

Genuine case image can be seen here, http://www.hoyafilter.com/hoya/products/ndfilters/prond1000/

Not sure if the counterfeiters have upped their game but they used to also have font errors on the filter printing.

If you send photos of it to Hoya and it proves to be fake they will shut the seller down.