Going to Phrae, Nan and Phayao

[TPI]

In Phrae, the road that runs along the west side of the Yom River heading north has many old Lanna styles mansions. I use to stay at the Tepawong Guest House but I am not sure if it now has the same Brit-Thai couple owners as before. There are also a number of smaller back roads that can take you up to Nan without having to travel the main 101 highway the entire way.

The Tepawong Guest House has changed hands for the worst! Personally I'd go Phrae...Payao....Nan. I depends on where you start from, The road from Rong Kwan to Song is under construction for about 10 Km and there is a number of things to see in and around Rong Kwan....why not make it a 4 day trip??

[jdlancaster]

Phrae has wat chao hae I think it is called outside of town and phae meuang pee... both can be quick visits.... and if you continue past wat chao hae into the mountains their are many nice little restaurants and guesthouses situated on a river... its a pleasant drive..... and there is a waterfall upthere too that was nice

[FolkGuitar]

I think Villagefarang's picture no. 2 is taken on the Nan - Boklua Rd. via Santisuk. It is also very beautiful but my feeling is that the road via Pua is even more spectacular.

We were just on this road a month ago. Delightful driving all over this region between Nan and the border. Bo Klua is a peaceful place to stay, with the resort just on the hillside overlooking the village. We'll be going back in the Fall on motorcycles. These roads are just made for big bike touring... smooth as glass, and twisty as Christmas Ribbon Candy!

[anonymouse]

Something I've been meaning to do for about 12 years! looking forward to your trip report Jungle Chef.

[Johpa]

In Phrae, the road that runs along the west side of the Yom River heading north has many old Lanna styles mansions. I use to stay at the Tepawong Guest House but I am not sure if it now has the same Brit-Thai couple owners as before. There are also a number of smaller back roads that can take you up to Nan without having to travel the main 101 highway the entire way.

Following up the Yom River will take you through a number of small villages and eventually land you in Song. From there you can see Lilit Phra Lor site and temple, you can also see Kaeng Suea Ten rapids in Mae Yom National Park. You can then take the mountain route through Sa Aiap, with many surrounding hill tribes if you get really adventurous and then get the Nan / Phayao highway to either destination.

Many Teak farms / forests through here as well, and it is completely untouched by tourism. I am 1 of about 5 westerners that live in Song District...if you want to venture this way, feel free to send me a message and I can get you more details about hte area, can possibly show you around if the timing is right.

Yes indeed, the Song region is gorgeous with good roads and few visitors. Song is also steeped in modern history, as is Phrae, as the location of the Song Rebellions against the intrusion of Bangkok centered political power into a region that was fairly independent with traditional allegiances that would vary between Central Thai, Northern Thai and Lao rulers. This region was, until quite recently, rather remote. During WWII the allies dropped their OSS sponsored clandestine Seri Thai (Free Thai) troops into Phrae as a location remote enough to be hidden from the Japanese. There is today a very interesting Seri Thai museum in Phrae and the people of Phrae consider the Seri Thai to be part of their regional identity. I am not sure whether the people of Song are allowed to publicly display their own history in a similar manner as references to the Song Rebellions are hard to find and most Thais are of course kept in the dark about such historical events. And it is a shame that K and his wife are no longer at the Teppawong Palace Guest House in Phrae. His wife was a Teppawong, the former ruling family of Phrae that also resisted the intrusion of centralized political power from Bangkok. I believe that it was her grandfather who was forced into exile in Luang Prabang.

[RikDao]

Lived in wife's childhood home in a village near Phrae for 5 months. Beautiful area, and I bet the rice fields are amazing right now. There are a few nice wats around the area, but one of the most interesting places to visit is Baan Pratap Jai, which is a teakwood mansion made of abandoned wood brought in from other parts of Northern Thailand.

[chrissables]

One of the major attractions of Nan is driving the backroads. Motorcyclists drive all the way from Bangkok and beyond to enjoy the twisty mountain roads and scenery. The 1169, 1081, 1080 loop and the 1148 to Chiang Kham are my favorite.

In April i rode from Nan to Chiang Khan, the road Nan to Mae Charim 1168, then 1243 to Ban Khok was very interesting! Especially at the Park rangers area of Sri Nan park. For a car impossible and a motorbike so difficult, But a great ride!

[millwall_fan]

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http://www.bokluaview.com/

Lovely resort in a lovely spot about 90 minutes north east of Nan town. Wouldn't recommend it for the OP as he has young kids going and they may get bored, but maybe one for others.

Phayao, several small guesthouses on the waterfront, about 600B for a good clean aircon room with lake view.

If you can spare the time I would not miss out on the village of Bo Luang , Ampur Boklua. Spectacular scenery if you take the road via Pua from Nan city. Very nice resort to stay at, www.bokluaview.com , with an English speaking local as your host. Lots of history, parks, waterfalls, the Htin hill tribe people and almost unknown to the Thais let alone Westerners. A must see before the developers find it.

I entirely concur with these two gentlemen. The resort is very well run by members of the Htin hill tribe. Nearby is Poo Fah Development Center Project Phasuk Village, Tambol Phasuk run by a foundation started by Princess Sirindhorn which caters for the needs of one of the most interesting hill tribes in Thailand: The Mabri."the most interesting and least understood people in Southeast Asia". its a pretty station which lots of space to run around for the kids. A beautiful part of the world

[junglechef]

The trip was great. Phrae has a nice temple, Pha Thad Cho Heim near a great restaurant, didn't spend too long in town to really rate town it but the mansion we went to wasn't worth the time.

Spent the night in Nan. Spending the morning walking to the temples and a great museum, I'm not a great fan of them esp in Thailand but this was done very well and lots of English explanations.

Drove to Boklueng, another excellent meal at View Resort and the drive had spectacular scenery (pic #1 & #2). Spent night in Pua as it was time to stop for the night.

Phayao was a bit touristy but not too bad. Guest house on the lake, took boat to temple on island (pic #3).

We made it a four day trip and had enough to do while time to chill too. My family I mean, I added dawn bicycle rides and even got in one late afternoon one so I got to see the lovely countryside up close and personal, the old wooden houses were especially charming.

Any suggestions for the next journey, thinking of hitting the Phillipines next week, but I've never been to Korea or ????

Edited August 18, 2014 by junglechef