Eating At A Different Place Every Day Of The Year!

[walker]

mssrs chanchao, foul

Mr Foul.....thanks for the new location of nobody's.....a great place

Mr C.........your ongoing work is greatly appreciated

[sabaijai]

Italian Food (Used to be called Italien Foo as the N had fallen off the sign)

Suthep road behind the university. It was one of the food stalls but is now self contained. Just before you reach the turn off to Wat Umong. Food is really cheap and good.

Pizza 45 baht !!

The locals call this place "Italian Lang Maw" (behind-the-university Italian). I eat there frequently and think it's not only the least expensive Italian in town but for several dishes, also the best. The gnocchi there beats any gnocchi I've had elsewhere in CM. I also like the Thai-Italian efforts like spaghetti phat hawy lai rot jat ("intensely flavoured fried clam spaghetti"). Most of the Italian-owned restos in town have what I'd call "muddy" flavours, while at Italian Lang Maw the flavours are usually clear and distinct, fresh. The pizza ain't much I don't think, but the pastas are as good as anywhere else in town, if not better, and for considerably fewer baht.

I heard that the Thai chef-owner worked at La Casa for awhile, which explains where he got his chops. La Casa is good, too, but very pricey (not quite as pricey - and not as bad - as Piccola Roma though).

If you're a big eater you may find the portions at ILM too small -- they're very much geared towards Thai appetites. Most of my Thai friends can't get past half a plate of pasta in other Italian restos around town! Suits me as well. Wine is also reasonably priced. A bottle of Hardy's, for example, sells for something like a 50-80B markup over standard supermarket prices.

[meadish_sweetball]

The prices at Italian lang maw are the best thing about the place. I have eaten there twice, but I think their pizzas are truly substandard. The spaghetti pla khem is ok, but heed sabaai jai's caution - the portions are two small for hungry Westerners.

The best pizza in town I have tried is the Seafood Pizza at Da Stefano - had one last night, and it was fantastic. 200 baht though... That's 10 noodle soups, or 20 beautiful sai krawk Isarn at Pratuu Chiang Mai market.

I have yet to find an Italian place that can make half-decent Lasagna though.

Da Stefano's is very tasteless, and Lang Maw was not very good either. Pumpuy's so-so. Any other tips?

[meadish_sweetball]

Fair enough. Have people tried 'Similan Seafood' on Fa Ham road? It's near 'The Resort' but on the other (non-river) side of the road.

Nope, haven't tried that one, but unless you´ve tried the truly exquisite Khao Soi place at Fa Ham Road (just after the temple on the river side, coming in from downtown) you must. I would be very surprised if you haven't though. Decent Muu Satae as well.

/Meadish

[chanchao]

I know it yes.. Say, Meadish, if I'm not mistaken I haven't seen you join in on the David A. mud wrestling fest?? Would you please get with the program? ;-)

Just kidding.

Will also definitely try the Italian Lang Mo, I have a weak spot for cheapo places. (Did everyone read my '40 Baht Runway Pizza' review & rant? Even cheaper pizza there at 40 baht.. ;-)

[meadish_sweetball]

About Mr. Arthur/Alexander I haven't a clue what the real story is as regards the paedophilia allegations, and so won't comment until some undeniable facts come to light. All this speculation for nothing, and resulting little flame wars, just make me tired... and I am not even a moderator!

I've read all your restaurant recommendations (thanks for a GREAT job!) and actually went to try the Phitsanulok Buffet with my GF yesterday. The price is now 39 baht (I think it was 30 when you wrote the review) and the food is acceptable quality, but not fantastic. The price is truly amazing though.

Next up on my list of places to try of the ones you recommended is Wichianburi Chicken.

I am a total slave to the som tam/kai yaang/khao niao tune.

By the way, have you seen the Isarn folk song performance about the kai yaang that gets spitted? Normally performed by girls with very graphic gestures suggestive of something else altogether.

[chanchao]

> I've read all your restaurant recommendations (thanks for a GREAT job!)

> and actually went to try the Phitsanulok Buffet with my GF yesterday.

> The price is now 39 baht (I think it was 30 when you wrote the review)

> and the food is acceptable quality, but not fantastic.

Yes. Is also the lunch buffet 39 baht now, or only the evening one? I did see a sign saying they were going to hike the price to 39 baht somewhere in June.

> Next up on my list of places to try of the ones you recommended

> is Wichianburi Chicken.

Pick the chicken yourself.. I was there at Songkran, a little bit out of it for various reasons, and ended up with a chickent that was less than perfect. (on the dry side). Note that I ALMOST drove to Wichieanburi last weekend to see the real thing.. ;-) I was already in Perchabun, but that's still 96 kilometers North of Wichian.. So an hours drive was just a bit too much.. maybe next time.

Did try the Lom Kao khanom jeen, also a famous local thing. They told me they have Lom Kao khanom jeen in Chiang mai too, on Suthep road near Suan Dok hospital. Went there today for lunch. It wasn't as good. In Lom Khao proper though I took some pictures of them making khanom jeen. Pretty interesting; maybe I'll post them somewhere. (Lom Kao khanom jeen they make in smaller, thinner round strands, not the long sticky ones you normally get. And they had a yellow coloured variety, from adding pumpkin-flour into the mix.

> By the way, have you seen the Isarn folk song performance

> about the kai yaang that gets spitted? Normally performed by

> girls with very graphic gestures suggestive of something else

> altogether.

No...? I'm interested though!!! Can anyone bake me an MP3??

Cheers,

Chanchao

[Lifelover]

Chanchao, I just wanted to add my congratulations on a great site. Your reviews are accurate AND very well written. Certainly better and more believable than any other reviews available from local magazines (who don't risk offending advertisers).

Do you know when Pasta Cafe will re-open? It used to be located on Nimmanheimin Road opposite Fine Thanks, on the left as you head towrds CM Art Museum from the Amari. Lovely lady who runs it was trained at the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok as a salad chef and worked there for a year. She obviously picked up a few other cooking skils. She hails from CM and came home to set up this place. Closed over a month ago to move somewhere else (soi 5?) but haven't seen it.

IMHO the food there is much better than the cheap Italian on Suthep Road before the Wat Umong turn and about the same price. She does all the cooking with a little help from her boyfriend, so service can be slow, but well worth the wait.

[sabaijai]

Lifelover, hmm I tried the Pasta Cafe and wouldn't give it a second try, didn't do it for me and the location was noisy.

I guess this just goes to show when it comes to food it's largely subjective, ie, to each his own. For me, Italian Lang Maw (Mo if you prefer, though the word rhymes with 'jaw') is the best Italian in the city, on some dishes (not the pizza). Da Stefano and Pum Pui taste very similar (not surprising since Stefano used to work for Sergio at PP), a bit on the 'muddy' side as described in my previous post. One thing I like at ILM is the consistent texture of the pasta, always al dente. I also like the atmosphere at ILM, pleasant trattoria style but not at all pretentious. Excellent service.

No one's mentioned Babylon, always a controversial topic of conversation. I like one dish there very much, the maccheroni siciliana (probably misspelt, sicilian maccaroni in english), but the rest are just OK. Thais love it, though, in fact after ILM it's probably the most popular Italian spot for Thais in the city.

I've had some nice Italian at Giorgio's, off Chang Khlan, as well, but ILM is still better value, for me at least.

If you ever get up to Pai, try Amido's pizza. Nothing in Chiang Mai even begins to compare, to my tastes anyway. The Algerian-French man who owns the place seems to dedicate his whole day to making pizza that evening, very dedicated (but a nonstop talker, don't go alone!).

[chanchao]

> Lifelover, hmm I tried the Pasta Cafe and wouldn't give it a

> second try, didn't do it for me and the location was noisy.

I went once when it recently opened.. Got very much a 'hobby' feel to it, like the operators run it more as a hobby than a serious restaurant. I forgot the details, probably the usual of many things on the menu not available, trouble ordering, took a long time to prepare the food even though not many other customers, etc. But I DID like the food, so was thinking of giving it another try when they would have ironed out the operational issues.. But then it closed, don't know if or where they're moving.

I also visited the Italian 'lang CMU'. MUCH bigger and more professional set-up than I thought from the recommendation here and the 'food-stall type' scruffy sign on Suthep road. It's actually a pretty big place, nice area, open-kitchen where you see them prepare the food and quite a large menu. Not super cheap, but cheap by Western food standards. Pizza and pasta dishes mostly 70-80 baht. Had Lasagna which I thought was quite good (or very good for 80 baht anyway) but the Mrs. had some spagetti dish that she didn't like because it was too spicy! Some 'beef stew spaghetti' but it had like dried chillies in it and lots of garlic. Then again she has a penchant for ordering the wrong things no matter where we are.

I will go there again I think.

> No one's mentioned Babylon, always a controversial topic of

> conversation. I like one dish there very much, the maccheroni

> siciliana (probably misspelt, sicilian maccaroni in english), but the

> rest are just OK. Thais love it, though, in fact after ILM it's probably

> the most popular Italian spot for Thais in the city.

Could be yes.. I've been there once, years ago. I don't like the cramped dark shophouse setting and high prices. Forgot how high, it's been too long ago.

Cheers,

Chanchao

[chanchao]

Follow up question:

Chees Fondue in Chiang Mai?? Saw a place at the Anusarn market, next to O'Malleys Irish pub. Any good?

Cheers,

Chanchao

[sabaijai]

Haven't tried the fondue place in Anusarn, but it looks much like its predecessors, rather slapdash and devoid of customers. Let us know if you do try it, Chanchao, who knows, it could be the rare exception where the lack of traffic doesn't equate to lousy dining.

There's another resto in CM dedicated to fondue, called quite simply 'Fondue' and next to Chez John's on Mahidol near the airport. Or at least there's a sign there for it, I haven't yet been so don't know for sure whether it's still going or not. It was started last year by the son of Chez John's French owner, who has cooked in his father's kitchen for many years. In fact the half-French, half-Thai son's name is Fondue (fawng-duu in thai)! Besides being an excellent chef, he's also plays bass professionally in local bands.

Surprised to hear of prices of 70-80B for pasta at Italian Lang Maw as the last time I ate there pasta dishes were 40-50B -- and that was no longer than a month ago. I figured he'd have to raise the prices sooner or later. Still, most other Italian places charge more on the order of 100-120B for pasta don't they? I think it still qualifies for cheapest Italian grub in the city. Actually I'd happily pay the higher prices for Italian elsewhere if the Italian-owned places were better, but they're not.

The three ILM dishes I'd most recommend are the penne pesto, the gnocchi (best I've eaten in CM by far) and the dish I mentioned earlier, spaghetti hawy lai ro jat, 'intensely flavoured clam spaghetti,' the latter done very much in the Thai style yet very true to real Italian food, which can be just as 'intense' as Thai when done home-style.

Babylon -- I too was put off by the dark shophouse feel but feel the sicilian maccaroni warrants a visit.

Pasta Cafe -- I had the same reaction, a hobby place, as you put it, run by Thais who don't really understand the restaurant business. Still I was not as impressed with the food as you seem to have been.

Shame that none of the Ital. restos in Chiang Mai can make a proper salad. Giorgio's best, but relatively expensive. I'm in Luang Prabang, Laos, at the moment, where they really know how to make a salad. Must be the French influence. There's a great new resto that opened only a few months ago, The Apsara, that's giving L'Elephant a run for its money. Absolutely Bangkok quality, and then some. Wine is so much more reasonably priced here. We had a fabulous 2000 Cotes du Rhone at The Apsara for US$23 that would've cost double that at any restaurant in Chiang Mai or Bangkok. As for the Lao food, terrific, and I'm getting my fix of Isan -- or its native equivalent -- for the moment.

[chanchao]

> Haven't tried the fondue place in Anusarn, but it looks much like

> its predecessors, rather slapdash and devoid of customers. Let us

> know if you do try it, Chanchao, who knows, it could be the rare

> exception where the lack of traffic doesn't equate to lousy dining.

I'm more slack on that law when it comes to foreign food. With Thai food: Absolutely, I wouldn't go near a Thai restaurant that's empty at peak time.. For restaurants aiming at tourists though, either full or empty often means nothing. I remember driving through Pai and mmy girlfriends says: Look lets' try that one, lots of people! .. This was some place with loads of backpackers. So I said: Honey, I think when it comes to tourists, this means nothing. Then we turned two corners, ended up at a place called Phrik Wan (moved / closed since) which was near empty, but the food there was awesome. I was sad to see it close/move away from Pai, but then again most visitors to Pai wouldn't know a decent Thai meal even if it bit them in the arse.... On good & cheap yoghurt & muesli breakfats however, tourists tend to be pretty reliable. :-)

Anyway, sorry for the rant.. I would of course agree that also at Anusarn a completely empty restaurant is no good sign either.. Last cheese fondue I had was a special gig that Sergio (of Pum Pui fame) threw, and that was awesome.

> There's another resto in CM dedicated to fondue, called quite simply

> 'Fondue' and next to Chez John's on Mahidol near the airport.

Ah yes, I remember the sign..

> It was started last year by the son of Chez John's French owner,

> who has cooked in his father's kitchen for many years. In fact the

> half-French, half-Thai son's name is Fondue (fawng-duu in thai)!

> Besides being an excellent chef, he's also plays bass professionally

> in local bands.

Sounds like a visit there is in order.. I'll take my chances there over the Anusarn restaurant. I always have a lot of sympathy for Western restaurants that open away from the main tourist areas. ("Nobody" comes to mind, and 'The Amazing Sandwich', in a way.)

> Surprised to hear of prices of 70-80B for pasta at Italian Lang Maw

> as the last time I ate there pasta dishes were 40-50B -- and that

> was no longer than a month ago. I figured he'd have to raise the

> prices sooner or later. Still, most other Italian places charge

> more on the order of 100-120B for pasta don't they?

Yup.. Especially the 'proper Italian' ones. Not the more mid-range 'general Western food' places, those are also in the 80 baht range I suppose, but they're also mostly pretty hit 'n miss. (And mostly miss)

> 'm in Luang Prabang, Laos, at the moment, where they really know

> how to make a salad. Must be the French influence.

I'm jealous!!! Was in Luang Prabang like 8 years ago, and worry that when I come back I will find something like Pai. ;-) Really liked all the cheap French bread sandwiches in the morning. (They must have improved over time in my memory, but at the price I still think they're hard to beat.. )

Cheers,

Chanchao

[meadish_sweetball]

As for LP (does this abbreviation want to tell us something ) I worry about the same thing, as you CC. I haven't been yet, but a friend went a few months ago, and while he thought it was pretty nice, he also said there were a lot of tourists there. Laos 8 years ago was a completely different story I think, but I will still go, because I had a fantastic time in Vientiane, and loved chatting with the Lao - they understood ALL of my Thai, a lot better than many of the Thais. I really don't know why that is, since I haven't spent much time in Isarn...

I went to the fondue place near the airport, two months ago.

It's gonna set you back a bit, I'd recommend bringing at least 1500 baht (if you skip the wine you may get away cheaper.

We had a mixed meats fondue, which was not too bad. It was served with three types of Nam Jim and potatoes of your choice. Candlelit dinner for two atmosphere, and the general impression of the place somehow felt like a stage set from a restaurant they might have used in the American soap "The Bold and the Beautiful". The waiters tiptoed, and the conversational volume was very low.

Great wine, but unfortunately I can't remember the name of the red wine we chose, but I *think* it was a Chilean one.

[chanchao]

> loved chatting with the Lao - they understood ALL of my Thai, a lot

> better than many of the Thais.

HA!!!!! That was EXACTLY my experience!!! I think it's because Lao people take some pride in speaking the "proper Central Thai" they see on Thai soap operas all the time. Now if you go to Kad Luang here in Chiang Mai, I have a much harder time understanding hard-core Chiang Mai people!

Also I thought the Lao script made more sense. ;-)

Cheers,

Chanchao

[john b good]

About Mr. Arthur/Alexander I haven't a clue what the real story is as regards the paedophilia allegations, and so won't comment until some undeniable facts come to light. All this speculation for nothing, and resulting little flame wars, just make me tired... and I am not even a moderator!

I just cannot get what the h*ll this ha sto do with eating at a ne wrestaurant a day for a year. I will admit to being more tah a little curios as to whats happened to Mr Arthur/Alexander. It seems to me that some have closed ranks as there has been f/a on the subject over the past several days. AND another issue if Chiangmai Mail without a word on the issue. A bit incestuous if you ask me.

But hey this is a posting on food ain't it. I just love it when I see people posting comments about 30B meals (maybe going to 39B) Just where do you people come from. I mean ? hasn't your benefit arrived yet.

I am not saying that because you might pay 120B you are or able to expect something better/cleaner but c'mon 30baht for a meal you just gotta be joking.

[chanchao]

I regret bringing that up here on this topic, even if it was intended as a joke I felt I could get away with.. I apologise for that. Feel free to debate it on some of the topics that are closer to this story, or start a new one.

Let's move on, but you do bring up an interesting thing as well:

> I am not saying that because you might pay 120B you are

> or able to expect something better/cleaner but c'mon 30baht

> for a meal you just gotta be joking.

Well, welcome to Chiang Mai (or: upcountry Thailand) is all I can say to that one. There's really not THAT much of a relation between the quality of the food and the price; There IS very much a relation between the 'environment' and price: Location, tablecloths, plates that aren't made of plastic, spoons that don't bend by just looking at them, lots of waiters, airconditioning: all these things are signs of a more expensive place. But the food may be not as good as the place charging 20 baht! It takes some time to recognize this, coming from a You-Get-What-You-Pay-For country.

Anyway, 30 baht? Try THREE baht! Also a rant on the above relationship between price and value can be found somewhere on this site where I also show pics of the 30/39 baht buffet place: http://chanchao.fotopages.com. They're somewhere down on page 2/3 by now I suppose.

And do go to that place that's 30/39 baht all you can eat.. You may find it's as good as, say, the hotel buffet you just had for 120 baht++.

Note that I also don't mind spending money when the value is there, I still want to do a good picture review of The House, but you can't just slag "cheap" things off as being no good just because you have more money burning a hole in your wallet.

And.. the best things in life are free..

Cheers,

Chanchao

[Johpa]

For restaurants aiming at tourists though, either full or empty often means nothing.

You mean decades worth of all those young backpackers at Daret's do not signal an establishment of very fine Thai food?

And the congregation of ex-pats, moi included while in-country, who dine at the Stube are not indicators of quality dining?

[john b good]

To the last two posters "point taken" on the subject of price.

On the subject of buffet's and whilst you will pay somewhat more than 39 or even 120 Baht the daily buffet at the Sheraton is excellent value even at the price which is between 300-400 Baht. There is not a more sumptious spread anywhere in the north and caters for all tastes.

The Empress buffet is not bad but the last time I was there the choice was very much more limited.

Some people have a love affair with Nang Nual but I think that it is very much over rated and no difficulties in forking out more than a couple of thousand Baht there and still come a way hungry.

On the subect of Mr Alexander I repeat my ????? as to what has happened and why the wall of silence (it is deafening)

It's almost as if the "old mates group" know something but are definately not going to share it with us "ordinary humble expats"

[chanchao]

> You mean decades worth of all those young backpackers at

> Daret's do not signal an establishment of very fine Thai food?

Thanks, now I have coffee all over my screen. Daret's rules during Songkran though. And: Name one other place that resembles an 'outside terrace' in the city area where you can actually sit during the day.

> And the congregation of ex-pats, moi included while in-country, who

> dine at the Stube are not indicators of quality dining?

I suppose.. It's just that 'giving a place a German name' is a VERY solid way to make me wary of it.. (Which is mostly undeserved too I have to say) And when I eat in restaurants it's mostly with my girlfriend, and when with my girlfriend I tend to avoid that area.. Same for Jerusalem Falafel restaurant, which I really like by the way, but never visit in the evening.

Cheers,

Chanchao

[chanchao]

> And the congregation of ex-pats, moi included while in-country, who

> dine at the Stube are not indicators of quality dining?

Also: Those are expats! I DO actually trust the taste of some expats about food. There's a difference between expats visiting, say, The House, and a restaurant in Pai filled with backpackers.

Cheers,

Chanchao

[francois]

hi'

Also: Those are expats! I DO actually trust the taste of some expats about food. There's a difference between expats visiting, say, The House, and a restaurant in Pai filled with backpackers.

right

and anyone see something wrong about the stube ?

some good dishes there.

anyway, did you see that the beer house re-opened, new look and new staff ...

did not step in yet

cheers

francois

[meadish_sweetball]

>I just cannot get what the h*ll this ha sto do with eating at a ne wrestaurant a >day for a year. I will admit to being more tah a little curios as to whats >happened to Mr Arthur/Alexander. It seems to me that some have closed ranks >as there has been f/a on the subject over the past several days. AND another >issue if Chiangmai Mail without a word on the issue. A bit incestuous if you ask >me.

>But hey this is a posting on food ain't it. I just love it when I see people posting >comments about 30B meals (maybe going to 39B) Just where do you people >come from. I mean ? hasn't your benefit arrived yet.

Ok, to answer your points one at a time: ¨

1. I answered a direct question from Chanchao about why I did not join into the Arthur/Alexander discussion, I wouldn't have brought the subject up otherwise.

2. Luckily, I do not rely on benefits from anywhere, and I have more than enough to splurge at the Sheraton or anywhere else in this city as often as I wish. But I am just not interested in doing so, except for occasionally. I like the street life and the feeling of the smallest restaurants with the plastic chairs, and I am amazed at how many places cook up a storm which whoops some serious ass with 70% of the restaurants in my home country, and this ass-whooping comes at a more inexpensive price then what I would pay for a glass of water in most places in Western Europe.

The reason why I mentioned the price change at Phitsanulok buffet is for the sake of being exact, and updating Chanchaos info, not because I though the price was outrageous.

Also, some people are travelling or living here on a small budget, but I don't see that as a reason to look down on them, since many of them actually are humble people, willing to learn about the culture and generally keep a low profile.

Before I came to live here, I used to budget travel in Thailand as well, and it irritates me to see all the negative attitudes against backpackers as a group just as much as it disturbs me to see generalizations about Isarn women, expats, Bulgarian marine biologists and American rednecks (except that in the latter case, all manner of conceivable prejudice are true, and the truth is often a good deal worse ).

[chanchao]

Please, don't get me started on them Bulgarian marine biologists..!

[meadish_sweetball]

No, some things are better left uncovered...

[Khun ?]

I agree the special way they boil rice with the used dishwater. It amazies me how many days they can use the same water. The nice plastic bowls with the soap build up just polishies everything off just right. Gourmet meal fit for a traveler of any stature. Dave recommends thursday nights feed in the lockup.

[jayjay0]

Well this might prove to be a unforgettable experience.

[elektrified]

Must be a slow day. Digging up an almost 7 year old somewhat boring thread...

[junglechef]

Has anybody tried one of those freshwater shrimp places

Goong Dten - Dancing shrimp

They're dancing because they're being marinated alive in lemon juice and then eaten while still alive. Locals love it but I can't handle it. There's a few on the road from the new San kampaeng road to Bo-Sang if anybody is hungry.

I've had them at a few of the places that are private little sala's on top of the water on Huay Tung Tao and love them!! They keep them alive in the lake and go over and pull them out for you after you order. The setting is so nice and chill there and the view is great if you sit across from the Doi Suthep.

[uptheos]

I don't know about every day of the year, but today at Gecko Garden the Fish and Chips are an amazing 79 baht,....that's 140 baht cheaper than another restaurant not too far away and considerably cheaper than all other places selling Fish and Chips.