Simple Ride Report of Northern Trip

[Gweiloman]

Two bikes (Versys 650), 2 riders, 1 pillion, 2 panniers, 1 top box, 1 tank bag, 1 hold all bag, lots of bungees and cable ties, One set of Pirelli Angel GT's, 1 rear Metzeler, 1 front Pirelli Rosso II's.

@taninthai - feel free to add remarks, pictures, videos

Day 01 Bkk - Sukhothai approx 422 km

Pretty boring, as you can imagine.

Only fun bit for me was when I showed my finger to an idiot that pulled out on me. He caught up to me at a police checkpoint near Ayutthaya and wanted me to pull over for some fisticuffs.

At the police checkpoint, the "officer" (if you can call them that) wanted to collect some tea money from me for riding on the right lane. I started to pull over but then my throttle jammed and my bike took off on it's own.

Overnight Sila Resort 450bht (shared bathrooms but was okay as there were two bathrooms and we were the only residents that night).

Day 02 Sukhotai - Nan approx 320 km

Highlight of the day was riding the 1339 and the barge crossing across the Sirikit Dam.Roads leading to the crossing were ok, but on the Northern part, a dream to ride on. Good surface, sweeping curves. Recommended route if you've not done it before.

Previous times, the crossing was hassle free. Arrive at the pier, ride straight onto the barge (assuming it's there), pay 100 baht. Another time, barge was not there, went to have lunch and was called when barge arrived (also 100 baht). This time round, barge was not there. Was told that if we waited for a car to show up, would be 100 baht per bike, else 500 baht for just the two bikes. Decided to have lunch while waiting. Another car showed up. Barge arrived. Neither us nor car was allowed to get on the barge. Barge left empty. Bit later, another barge arrived. Car got on. We were not allowed on. Apparently different barge company. Finally, they took us over (two bikes only) and charged 150 baht per bike.

Overnight Huan Gum Gin hotel 500 bht incl simple b'fast. Recommended. No off street parking.

Lunch

High speed catamaran

Day 03 Nan - Chiang Kham approx 160 km

Plan was to do Nan - Chiang Khong via Phu Chi Fah viewpoint, taking the 1148/1093/1155. However, started raining (taninthai will tell you it was snowing, he was so cold).

Shame about the rain as the roads were great but too treacherous to push in the wet.

Stopped along the way to help out a pickup that had spun off the road on the 1148. Lent them my phone as they could not get a signal on their own phones. AIS has good coverage all over Thailand.

Overnight Chiang Kham hotel (250 baht) - you get what you pay for, haha. However, great noodle shop next door, steaming hot pork ball noodles.

Day 04 Chiang Kham - Chiang Khong approx 105 km

Forecast for the day was more rain and hailstones. There wasn't much of either. Rode past Phu Chi Fah, was very tempting but you couldn't even see the top of the mountain as it was covered in clouds so gave it a miss.

Weather started to clear up a bit in the late morning it was still real chilly. Relatively uneventful, roads were still wet in lots of places.

Chiang Khong looks like a town on it's last legs, since the Friendship Bridge was opened a few kms back down the road, there is not much need for the ferry crossing to Huay Xai

Overnight Baan Fai guesthouse 350baht - ok

Day 05 Chiang Khong - Pai almost 500 km

After two days of slow riding, we decided to go for a big blast.

Blew past the Golden Triangle too quickly to take pictures, the 1129 is just a dream to ride. You don't even want to stop in spite of the beautiful scenery, with the Mekong on your right.

From Mae Sai, we took the backway 1149 up the hill along the Burmese border to Doi Tung. Very, very interesting road. Extremely narrow, twisty, overgrown in parts, covered in pine needles close to the top. Saw Thai Sakura flowers (cherry blossoms), wild boars. The soldiers at the two checkpoints we passed were really amused to see two out of town bikes. We did the first climb (STEEP!) up and thought about turning round but didn't fancy going down that steep incline so we soldiered forward. Road got progressively narrower and narrower. But the scenery!!! (Burmese) Mountains to the right, valleys to the left. We were even in the clouds at one point. A family of jungle pigs crossed our path but did not chase after us. Saw goats too and thought how great a mutton stew would be at that time.

Versys took it all in it's stride though it would be doable on most bikes (locals do it on Waves and Clicks).

Got to Fang with lots of daylight to spare so decided to continue all the way to Pai.

Would have made it to Pai before nightfall but stopped to help a French rider on a CRF that crashed into a barrier, about 50 kms from Pai. He went over the barrier and rolled down about 3 metres down the hill. Luckily, there were some Thais on the scene but none of them spoke English and the french guy did not speak Thai (he was a tourist, on a rented bike I guess).

According the the Thais (one of whom was an off duty police), they were following him and commenting that he was riding a bit too quick. Moments later, he crashed. He was conscious and lucid, worried about his Go-Pro so I retrieved it from his bike and gave it back to him. taninthai managed to restart his bike and helped to get it loaded onto a police pickup to be sent to Pai police station. Ambulance was on the way to get him and send him to Pai hospital. I briefed him on what was happening and took my leave as it was already dark by then. taninthai had dark visor so we needed to get going asap.

I led the way in the dark very cautiously as I was conscious of the fact that taninthai would be riding with his visor opened and getting mouthfuls of bugs. He had other ideas. He just wanted to get to the hotel so when a faster pickup overtook us, he went past me as well and stayed behind the pickup, with it showing us the way with lights.

We finally got into Pai at around 7 pm.

Overnight Kanravee Guesthouse ll. Superior bungalow was good, standard bungalow was so so. 500 baht with self service breakfast (toast and coffee).

Day 06 Pai - Mae Sariang 275 km

One of the best riding days. Everyone knows about Pai to MHS. Great riding, technical, downhill switchbacks, great acceleration bursts uphill. I was really struggling for power on the Versys - taninthai weighs about 67 kgs - I alone weigh 90 kgs (plus 2 or 3) and had pillion, panniers, top box, stock exhaust (22 kgs), bashplate, crashguards etc etc. tit was very nice not to leave me behind (maybe something to do with the fact that I was the route planner, had the GPS and all the pool money, hahahaha).

The road below us

The technical bits ends in MHS and then starts the 108. What a road!!!! High speed bends and curves, so nice to be able to open up the throttle after the 1095. The 80km or so from MHS to Khun Yuam is easily done in under an hour. Road is in great condition.

Overnight above the sea guesthouse, 750 bht incl breakfast. Highly recommended. Brand new guesthouse, will all the mod cons.

Day 07 Mae Sariang - scenic viewpoint on Mae Sot Tak road - Mae Sot approx 330 km

taninthai's pick of the days, I think. The 105 started off ok, continuing from the 108 yesterday. Roads started getting worse, pot holes and all. Finally we hit dirt road and road construction. There must have been about 20 kms or so of just dirt and some gravel. I will leave it to taninthai to post the video.

Reached the end of the roadworks and roadway to heaven started. The completed sections of the 105 is even better than the 108. The surface would rival even racetracks (for sure, I felt I was getting more grip than on Bira or Kraeng Krachan even).

We reached Mae Sot and debated whether to stay or continue on to Tak. One look at Agoda decided Mae Sot (cheaper hotels, nicer than Tak - I think). As it was still early, we decided to ride a bit of Hwy 12 till the scenic viewpoint and back, taking in Magic Hill along the way.

I can't stress how important it is to be very, very careful on this Hwy 12 Mae Sot - Tak section. Wide sweeping curves which suddenly comes down to just one lane, very slippery in parts due the all the stuff dropped by extremely slow going lorries, some dodgy road condition and most of all, more idiotic drivers than on any other road in Thailand. This road draws you in, making you think it's a lot easier than it actually is.

A quick point about safety, joining traffic etc. Most of us were taught from young to carefully look left, look right and look left again. I'm saying that that's not enough. Look at the video to see what I mean.

Overnight Laksasuk House 450bht incl breakfast, best value guesthouse anywhere in the world!

Day 08 Mae Sot - Kanchanaburi 505 km

At this point, the best of the ride was behind us. Decided to do a long blast all the way down to Kanchanaburi. We did however find the longest road in Thailand without a single curve or bend (3504). The surface was surprisingly good and one could ride at a fairly brisk pace if one wanted to. A boring day but at least managed to cover a fair bit of ground.

Overnight S Hotel - 750 baht - highly recommended

Day 09 Kanchanaburi - Si Sawat - ferry crossing - Sangkhla Buri - Thong Pha Phum approx 350 km

A day to forget or remember, depending on how you look at it. The ride to Si Sawat was a blast. I reckon this is probably the best weekend ride from Bangkok. Took the 10 baht ferry across to Si Sawat (is this even a town? only say the police station and hospital, didn't see any town) along with the ice cream man

Cop came up to us, speaking good English. Suggested that we could take another barge over the Sinakharin dam to Sangkhla Buri.

This turned out to be quite an experience. A kilometre or so of dirt road ends here

followed by over 20 kms of dirt, gravel, sand and mud on the other side. I doubt very much any bikes other than the Versys would have survived this. It looks flat and level on the following pics but believe us, it was anything but...

We finally rejoined the 323 at Chalae, took a right to Sangkhla Buri (3 pagoda pass) before heading back to Thong Pha Pum. The 323 must rate as one of the best roads in Thailand as well. Great surface, bends, turns, curves, all can be done at very good speeds. A fantastic road for blowing out the carbon in the exhaust.

Overnight Thongphapum Place, 600 bht - above average.

Day 10 Thong Pha Phum - Bangkok

Heard about Pilok from a poster here a few years ago so decided to give it a try. Took the 3272 along the Vajiralongkorn dam. Fantastic road with beautiful scenery. However, after the 3272 turns into Kri. 4088, the road started getting extremely narrow, gravelly and wasn't fun to ride anymore. Gave up after about 5 kms and turned back. Pilok and I-Tong village will have to wait for another time.

Went back out to Thong Pha Pum and a quick blast to Sai Yok. Along the way, stopped off at Baan Ricky. Glad to see that it's still in operation. Carried onto Kanchanburi on the 323.

The 323 is really, really great for some slightly above speed limit runs. Highly, highly recommended, for anything above 500 cc. After lunch, headed back into Bangkok - absolutely horrendous after the last 10 days of great riding but that's the price of living in Bangkok.

Thanks for reading.

[OmegaRacer]

Thanks for the trip report. I really miss the mountains up there.

[dave_boo]

Glad you had a good time. I always recommend the 3504 if people are in that area. Just be mindful that there can be tak-taks and cows driven home at the usual hours.

[taninthai]

Depressed only have this to ride today

[ll2]

cool ride man.

envy you guys!

[Nickymaster]

Well done! I always appreciate the effort people put in to posting ride reports. Yep, recognize some roads. Not always the best tyres for the roads you were going. But good to see you made it without trouble. Don't know about the lunch...

[Shurup]

Great ride! I'll be going on a similar ride in less than a week.

[moe666]

I have been checking the map and was courious what route you took from MaeSot to pick up the 3504. When I get to feeling health will be interested in taking this route.

[dave_boo]

I have been checking the map and was courious what route you took from MaeSot to pick up the 3504. When I get to feeling health will be interested in taking this route.

First, hope you get healthy soon. You are missing some awesome riding weather.

I assume that he followed my advice. Leave out from Mae Sot and head east on the [12]. When arriving at Tak, stay on the east side of the Ping river [104/3002/1084]. You'll reach Khanu Woralaksaburi and turn right on the [1074]. Follow that west to the [3504]. Turn left on that road and head south. 5 km outside of Chum Ta Bong the road hits a "T" where you'll turn left. About 3km following the [3456] east you'll make a right turn towards Lat Yao. The road is still the [3456] and you follow that down to the [3438] were you turn left and a little bit past 2 km have a right turn onto the [3282]. Stay on that until it "T"s into the [3015]. That "T"s into the [3008] where you turn right. Keep going until the [4016]. Follow the signs and and you'll be on [3086] before you know it. Follow that to overnight in Kanchanaburi or take the [3480/4041/3119].

[moe666]

I have been checking the map and was courious what route you took from MaeSot to pick up the 3504. When I get to feeling health will be interested in taking this route.

First, hope you get healthy soon. You are missing some awesome riding weather.

I assume that he followed my advice. Leave out from Mae Sot and head east on the [12]. When arriving at Tak, stay on the east side of the Ping river [104/3002/1084]. You'll reach Khanu Woralaksaburi and turn right on the [1074]. Follow that west to the [3504]. Turn left on that road and head south. 5 km outside of Chum Ta Bong the road hits a "T" where you'll turn left. About 3km following the [3456] east you'll make a right turn towards Lat Yao. The road is still the [3456] and you follow that down to the [3438] were you turn left and a little bit past 2 km have a right turn onto the [3282]. Stay on that until it "T"s into the [3015]. That "T"s into the [3008] where you turn right. Keep going until the [4016]. Follow the signs and and you'll be on [3086] before you know it. Follow that to overnight in Kanchanaburi or take the [3480/4041/3119].

Thanks Dave, lots of folks up here in CM with colds and the flu this year, change in temp. I guesss. Thanks a lot for the info.

[Gweiloman]

I have been checking the map and was courious what route you took from MaeSot to pick up the 3504. When I get to feeling health will be interested in taking this route.

First, hope you get healthy soon. You are missing some awesome riding weather.

I assume that he followed my advice. Leave out from Mae Sot and head east on the [12]. When arriving at Tak, stay on the east side of the Ping river [104/3002/1084]. You'll reach Khanu Woralaksaburi and turn right on the [1074]. Follow that west to the [3504]. Turn left on that road and head south. 5 km outside of Chum Ta Bong the road hits a "T" where you'll turn left. About 3km following the [3456] east you'll make a right turn towards Lat Yao. The road is still the [3456] and you follow that down to the [3438] were you turn left and a little bit past 2 km have a right turn onto the [3282]. Stay on that until it "T"s into the [3015]. That "T"s into the [3008] where you turn right. Keep going until the [4016]. Follow the signs and and you'll be on [3086] before you know it. Follow that to overnight in Kanchanaburi or take the [3480/4041/3119].

Thanks Dave, lots of folks up here in CM with colds and the flu this year, change in temp. I guesss. Thanks a lot for the info.

If you are going to take the 3504, I suggest you find a nice book, set a cruise control for your throttle and just sit back and read your book. Only slight shifts in body weight are required on this looooooooooong straight road.

[dave_boo]

If you are going to take the 3504, I suggest you find a nice book, set a cruise control for your throttle and just sit back and read your book. Only slight shifts in body weight are required on this looooooooooong straight road.

But it's a hell of a way to quickly get from Tak down to Kanchanburi isn't it?

Bypasses [1/32] with its potholes, smog, and kamikaze drivers.

[billd766]

A great post and I am glad that you enjoyed the ride.

Sigh. It makes me wish I was a few years younger than the 70 I am now.

I would love to do a trip like that even on my scabby old Phantom. It would do the trip but it would just take a lot longer.

I was due out with Dave Boo last year but my left leg was causing me pain for about 3 months or so. It is better now but I am not too happy on a long trip on my own any more in case I drop my bike and get stuck under it.

My mate should be coming out from Germany in February or March so I will ride with him this year and depending on my health and age this may be the last year of distance riding.

I know my reactions are slower and my eyesight is going a bit more every year but I will take things as they come.

[Gweiloman]

A great post and I am glad that you enjoyed the ride.

Sigh. It makes me wish I was a few years younger than the 70 I am now.

I would love to do a trip like that even on my scabby old Phantom. It would do the trip but it would just take a lot longer.

I was due out with Dave Boo last year but my left leg was causing me pain for about 3 months or so. It is better now but I am not too happy on a long trip on my own any more in case I drop my bike and get stuck under it.

My mate should be coming out from Germany in February or March so I will ride with him this year and depending on my health and age this may be the last year of distance riding.

I know my reactions are slower and my eyesight is going a bit more every year but I will take things as they come.

It's fantastic that you are still riding in your 70's - I hope I can be too.

You could most of this trip on practically any bike with the exception of one or two rather extreme (for road bikes) off road / road under construction bits. You would of course not do the same sort of daily distances that we did, maybe 200 km a day max, especially on the twisty bits.

Good luck if you do go on your trip

p/s: on another thread, eagle eyed Dave_Boo spotted that I had Airhawks under my stretchy seat cover. I highly recommend it - I did not once feel any pain or discomfort even at the end of a long day's ride

[ll2]

A great post and I am glad that you enjoyed the ride.

Sigh. It makes me wish I was a few years younger than the 70 I am now.

I would love to do a trip like that even on my scabby old Phantom. It would do the trip but it would just take a lot longer.

I was due out with Dave Boo last year but my left leg was causing me pain for about 3 months or so. It is better now but I am not too happy on a long trip on my own any more in case I drop my bike and get stuck under it.

My mate should be coming out from Germany in February or March so I will ride with him this year and depending on my health and age this may be the last year of distance riding.

I know my reactions are slower and my eyesight is going a bit more every year but I will take things as they come.

70 means nothing. age means nothing as well.

hope you ride until you are 100!

[billd766]

A great post and I am glad that you enjoyed the ride.

Sigh. It makes me wish I was a few years younger than the 70 I am now.

I would love to do a trip like that even on my scabby old Phantom. It would do the trip but it would just take a lot longer.

I was due out with Dave Boo last year but my left leg was causing me pain for about 3 months or so. It is better now but I am not too happy on a long trip on my own any more in case I drop my bike and get stuck under it.

My mate should be coming out from Germany in February or March so I will ride with him this year and depending on my health and age this may be the last year of distance riding.

I know my reactions are slower and my eyesight is going a bit more every year but I will take things as they come.

It's fantastic that you are still riding in your 70's - I hope I can be too.

You could most of this trip on practically any bike with the exception of one or two rather extreme (for road bikes) off road / road under construction bits. You would of course not do the same sort of daily distances that we did, maybe 200 km a day max, especially on the twisty bits.

Good luck if you do go on your trip

p/s: on another thread, eagle eyed Dave_Boo spotted that I had Airhawks under my stretchy seat cover. I highly recommend it - I did not once feel any pain or discomfort even at the end of a long day's ride

Back in 2011 I rode my Phantom down to BKK from where I live at the Khampaeng Phet side of the Mae Wong national park to look at a Yamaha Virago 535 some 400 km. I rode back the same day. I started about 05.30 and finally got home in a thunderstorm abbout 9.30 pm. I was CWFM, cold wet and f'ing miserable but the Phantom never missed a beat, just kept plugging on.

For the next 3 days I walked like a cowboy who had lost his horse but it did enjoy most of the day.

I can probably still hack about 400km max in a day now but after 3 days I think I would give up, and suffer the luxury of comfort by sending my wife to collect me in the pickup and chuck the bike on the back.

[Gweiloman]

A great post and I am glad that you enjoyed the ride.

Sigh. It makes me wish I was a few years younger than the 70 I am now.

I would love to do a trip like that even on my scabby old Phantom. It would do the trip but it would just take a lot longer.

I was due out with Dave Boo last year but my left leg was causing me pain for about 3 months or so. It is better now but I am not too happy on a long trip on my own any more in case I drop my bike and get stuck under it.

My mate should be coming out from Germany in February or March so I will ride with him this year and depending on my health and age this may be the last year of distance riding.

I know my reactions are slower and my eyesight is going a bit more every year but I will take things as they come.

It's fantastic that you are still riding in your 70's - I hope I can be too.

You could most of this trip on practically any bike with the exception of one or two rather extreme (for road bikes) off road / road under construction bits. You would of course not do the same sort of daily distances that we did, maybe 200 km a day max, especially on the twisty bits.

Good luck if you do go on your trip

p/s: on another thread, eagle eyed Dave_Boo spotted that I had Airhawks under my stretchy seat cover. I highly recommend it - I did not once feel any pain or discomfort even at the end of a long day's ride

Back in 2011 I rode my Phantom down to BKK from where I live at the Khampaeng Phet side of the Mae Wong national park to look at a Yamaha Virago 535 some 400 km. I rode back the same day. I started about 05.30 and finally got home in a thunderstorm abbout 9.30 pm. I was CWFM, cold wet and f'ing miserable but the Phantom never missed a beat, just kept plugging on.

For the next 3 days I walked like a cowboy who had lost his horse but it did enjoy most of the day.

I can probably still hack about 400km max in a day now but after 3 days I think I would give up, and suffer the luxury of comfort by sending my wife to collect me in the pickup and chuck the bike on the back.

What I meant is that in the twisties, the average speed comes right down and to do 400 km a day, you will really need to push hard and start early / end late.

[moe666]

A great post and I am glad that you enjoyed the ride.

Sigh. It makes me wish I was a few years younger than the 70 I am now.

I would love to do a trip like that even on my scabby old Phantom. It would do the trip but it would just take a lot longer.

I was due out with Dave Boo last year but my left leg was causing me pain for about 3 months or so. It is better now but I am not too happy on a long trip on my own any more in case I drop my bike and get stuck under it.

My mate should be coming out from Germany in February or March so I will ride with him this year and depending on my health and age this may be the last year of distance riding.

I know my reactions are slower and my eyesight is going a bit more every year but I will take things as they come.

I am 69 and still ride around the country on my pcx 350k a day is good and then after 3 days take a few day break, if you have a gym or some equipment work the upper body a bit so the arms and shoulders do not become to tired.Good luck on those rides, nothing to back away from

[taninthai]

little blast through the road works and new section of the 105.......running at x2 speed......one of my favourite parts.......

http://youtu.be/TFLZOXWF3Zk

Edited January 20, 2015 by taninthai

[H1w4yR1da]

if you have a gym or some equipment work the upper body a bit so the arms and shoulders do not become to tired.

A sportsbike gives a good upper body workout. Always get a tricep burn on longer rides.

Unfortunately, doesn't do much for the gut!

[papa al]

Re post #1, last paragraph:

"The 323 is really, really great for some slightly above speed limit runs. Highly, highly recommended, for anything above 500 cc."

This is a swell road.

I road in couple years back on Raider150.

I highly recommend it for anything below 500 cc.

[Gweiloman]

Re post #1, last paragraph:

"The 323 is really, really great for some slightly above speed limit runs. Highly, highly recommended, for anything above 500 cc."

This is a swell road.

I road in couple years back on Raider150.

I highly recommend it for anything below 500 cc.

Absolutely! Highly recommended for bicycles as well. Heck, even pedestrians would have a blast as it's quite scenic.

But to really, really enjoy this road, a high displacement bike is the ideal choice. Bit like having the right kind of wine with the right kind of meal, if you know what I mean.

[papa al]

Red with meat; white with fish.

I'm not much of an imbiber, so

can't really appreciate the wine metaphor. 5 5

But I do like eating fruit salad served on a naked lady's belly,

if you know what I mean.

[dave_boo]

Red with meat; white with fish.

I'm not much of an imbiber, so

can't really appreciate the wine metaphor. 5 5

But I do like eating fruit salad served on a naked lady's belly,

if you know what I mean.

Fruit salad a la tubgirl?

Gross.

[papa al]

D,

You Catholic or sumtin'?

Doesn't have to be a tub girl, but showering after is fun.

Preferable to wine IMO if you really, really want to enjoy the dining experience..

[dave_boo]

D,

You Catholic or sumtin'?

Doesn't have to be a tub girl, but showering after is fun.

Preferable to wine IMO if you really, really want to enjoy the dining experience..

Go to images.Google.com and do a search for tubgirl.

Then you'll understand my post.

[papa al]

Wow that tubgirl is a new one for me.

(I thought you were talking soapy massage)

Thanks for the education.

I'll bet she has a nice personality.

I'm not that into large, bikes nor wimmin.

But you guys... go for it.

[dave_boo]

Wow that tubgirl is a new one for me.

(I thought you were talking soapy massage)

Thanks for the education.

I'll bet she has a nice personality.

I'm not that into large, bikes nor wimmin.

But you guys... go for it.

Just wanted to know that I am not as puritanical as some think....

[Shurup]

Go to images.Google.com and do a search for tubgirl.

Then you'll understand my post.

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/250x250/51802256.jpg

[dave_boo]

Go to images.Google.com and do a search for tubgirl.

Then you'll understand my post.

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/250x250/51802256.jpg

That is still not as bad as meatspin.....scarred me for life.