Whole house water filter brand

[Bennys]

Hi Guys,

Need help if anybody have any experience with Mazuma whole house carbon Filter compare to Masterpure carbon Filter?

the price between this 2 brand is almost double.

it will be use in Bangkok with Government water near by Rama 9.

Thx

Ben

[CharlieH]

MOVED to D-I-Y Housing

[Rooo]

Carbon filter only takes out smell. I just bought a Mazuma & they come with five bags of different media (ion, sulpha, carbon etc..... ) , great filter.

[Sheryl]

Carbon will also filter out bacteria and some other things.

I have had very bad experiences with masterpure filters and recommend against.

[worgeordie]

I cannot see the reason for a whole house water filter system,for drinking water OK

but its going to be a lot of work and expense maintaining and servicing the system.

The only way to reliably kill,viruses,bacteria and filter the water ,would be with either

a RO filter (would have to be very large to do whole house),or U.V. filter or with

Ozone, carbon will not filter out bacteria,they will grow on it,Activated carbon is

used to filter odours and some chemicals.

regards worgeordie

[Sheryl]

Whole house filter is very necessary if the water has a lot of iron, managnese and/or sulfur and/or is very hard -- unless one doesn't mind being unable to properly wash clothes or rinse off in the shower, having limescale buildup (which shortens appiance life), brownish discolorations in sinks, tubs and toilets and/or sulfur odor.

I agree that if the only concern is safety of drinking water, there are better approaches. But for concerns like the above, whole house is the only way that makes sense.

[GinBoy2]

I have a 20liter mazuma carbon filter after a sediment filter. I haven't had an problems with the mazuma, it's not that there's a lot that can go wrong with them. It a stainless cylinder filled with carbon with a little internal plumbing.

I'd say go with the cheapest

[Sheryl]

GinBoy2:

Do youhappen to know if it would be possible to put Birm filter media in this? I can't see why not but can't find anyone who can say nor any info on requirements for a Birm filter unit.

For some reason filter units seem to be separately designated as being for carbon or resin, can't figure that out either as they seem the same too me, just steel, plastic or fibergalss casings.....

[GinBoy2]

Literally you can put whatever filter material in them you want. I wasn't kidding when I said its a cylinder filled with carbon. Birm media and Carbon aren't so different, to fill the thing you just pour it into the whole at the top, the water then percolates through it to the outlet.

When it's ready to change, you open the plug on the bottom, and out it all comes...usually resulting in an unholy mess which drives my wife into apoplexy, and sometimes physical violence directed at me! LOL

Edited May 1, 2015 by GinBoy2

[Sheryl]

Literally you can put whatever filter material in them you want. I wasn't kidding when I said its a cylinder filled with carbon. Birm media and Carbon aren't so different, to fill the thing you just pour it into the whole at the top, the water then percolates through it to the outlet.

Makes sense to me!

I just bought a Mazuma unit which the HomePro guy (who seemed at least somewhat clued in, surprisingly) said it could take carbon, or resin, or managanese just fine. He did nto know what birm was, but I think the point is -- any filter media.

BTW OP, I bought this after returning a masterpure brand that was in adcdition to being overpriced, poorly designed. So I too would say, get the Mazuma.

[Anthony5]

Literally you can put whatever filter material in them you want. I wasn't kidding when I said its a cylinder filled with carbon. Birm media and Carbon aren't so different, to fill the thing you just pour it into the whole at the top, the water then percolates through it to the outlet.

Makes sense to me!

I just bought a Mazuma unit which the HomePro guy (who seemed at least somewhat clued in, surprisingly) said it could take carbon, or resin, or managanese just fine. He did nto know what birm was, but I think the point is -- any filter media.

BTW OP, I bought this after returning a masterpure brand that was in adcdition to being overpriced, poorly designed. So I too would say, get the Mazuma.

Remember that for a Resin or Manganese filter you will need a valve that has regenerating capabilities.

The cylinder can contain any media, the valve may differ.

Edited May 1, 2015 by Anthony5

[GinBoy2]

Literally you can put whatever filter material in them you want. I wasn't kidding when I said its a cylinder filled with carbon. Birm media and Carbon aren't so different, to fill the thing you just pour it into the whole at the top, the water then percolates through it to the outlet.

Makes sense to me!

I just bought a Mazuma unit which the HomePro guy (who seemed at least somewhat clued in, surprisingly) said it could take carbon, or resin, or managanese just fine. He did nto know what birm was, but I think the point is -- any filter media.

BTW OP, I bought this after returning a masterpure brand that was in adcdition to being overpriced, poorly designed. So I too would say, get the Mazuma.

Remember that for a Resin or Manganese filter you will need a valve that has regenerating capabilities.

The cylinder can contain any media, the valve may differ.

Birm simply needs backwashing, which is the same as carbon, it's doesn't 'I think' need regeneration. If it did I would agree with you

[Anthony5]

Literally you can put whatever filter material in them you want. I wasn't kidding when I said its a cylinder filled with carbon. Birm media and Carbon aren't so different, to fill the thing you just pour it into the whole at the top, the water then percolates through it to the outlet.

Makes sense to me!

I just bought a Mazuma unit which the HomePro guy (who seemed at least somewhat clued in, surprisingly) said it could take carbon, or resin, or managanese just fine. He did nto know what birm was, but I think the point is -- any filter media.

BTW OP, I bought this after returning a masterpure brand that was in adcdition to being overpriced, poorly designed. So I too would say, get the Mazuma.

Remember that for a Resin or Manganese filter you will need a valve that has regenerating capabilities.

The cylinder can contain any media, the valve may differ.

Birm simply needs backwashing, which is the same as carbon, it's doesn't 'I think' need regeneration. If it did I would agree with you

Resin needs regenerating with brine, while manganese is regenerated with potassium permanganate.

[Sheryl]

Yes, which is why I prefer Birm to managenese (green sand) - to avoid the need for regeneration with a toxic chemical.

Not sure what is meant by a valve with "regenrating capabilities" - to my understanding just need a way to get the salt water in (and of course to backwash) so any 3 way valve should work...??

The Mazuma unit I refer to has a simple 3 way valve: water in, water out and backwash. Can infuse the brine through the backwash valve.

[Anthony5]

Yes, which is why I prefer Birm to managenese (green sand) - to avoid the need for regeneration with a toxic chemical.

Not sure what is meant by a valve with "regenrating capabilities" - to my understanding just need a way to get the salt water in (and of course to backwash) so any 3 way valve should work...??

The Mazuma unit I refer to has a simple 3 way valve: water in, water out and backwash. Can infuse the brine through the backwash valve.

This is an example of a manual regeneration valve ( also called softener valve). It is 4 way. Look at the item with the green top on the side, which is a ventury valve, that sucks the regeneration fluid through a very small tube into the filter.

Let me know if you're able to find Birm in Thailand, because I would also be interested in that media.

Edited May 2, 2015 by Anthony5

[Sheryl]

What you show above (which is what was on the model I returned) is not necessary and ups the cost of the unit considerably. The model I noiw have has just a 3 way valve of equal size, no hook-up to a brine tank.

You can simply prepare the brine when you need it and add it through the backwash valve, then let it sit. Simpler and IMO easier. Also conserves more water since the models I have seen with a hook-up to a brine solution require prolonged flow of water during the process.

The way I have always done it is to back-wash until the water comes out clear (saving the water for use in the garden), then pour in brine and leave it for an hour, then backwash again until the water no longer has a taste. (that water, of course, I just discard).

Source for Birm:

http://supplies.cmpthai.com/index.php?cmd=detail&cat_id=6&sub_id=12&pro_id=164

[Anthony5]

What you show above (which is what was on the model I returned) is not necessary and ups the cost of the unit considerably. The model I noiw have has just a 3 way valve of equal size, no hook-up to a brine tank.

You can simply prepare the brine when you need it and add it through the backwash valve, then let it sit. Simpler and IMO easier. Also conserves more water since the models I have seen with a hook-up to a brine solution require prolonged flow of water during the process.

The way I have always done it is to back-wash until the water comes out clear (saving the water for use in the garden), then pour in brine and leave it for an hour, then backwash again until the water no longer has a taste. (that water, of course, I just discard).

And how do you get the brine in the filter?

By disconnecting the water supply and connect it to the brine tank, because the backwash normally get its supply from the mains or well.

[Sheryl]

You do not have to disconnect anything. After back-washing you turn off the inflow and let the water drain off. Once no more coming out, you pour the brine manually through the backwash filter and close the valve (keeping the inflow off and also closing the outflow).

It helps if you have a configuration where there is another valve or tap along the outflow line that you can open to release air pressure while draining the fluid and adding the brine. I always have such a tap there anyhow so that I can collect water when the electricity (and hence the water pump) goes down.

As I added it later and you may not have seen it, Birm source:

http://supplies.cmpt...d=12&pro_id=164

[Anthony5]

You do not have to disconnect anything. After back-washing you turn off the inflow and let the water drain off. Once no more coming out, you pour the brine manually through the backwash filter and close the valve (keeping the inflow off and also closing the outflow).

It helps if you have a configuration where there is another valve or tap along the outflow line that you can open to release air pressure while draining the fluid and adding the brine. I always have such a tap there anyhow so that I can collect water when the electricity (and hence the water pump) goes down.

As I added it later and you may not have seen it, Birm source:

http://supplies.cmpt...d=12&pro_id=164

I can't really follow your procedure.

The backwash valve is mounted on top of the filter, so there will only come water out of it if there is a water supply to the filter.Closing the water supply doesn't drain the filter, unless you have a drain valve at the bottom of the cylinder.

Adding brine through the backwash valve will in my opinion result in a diluted solution inside the filter. Anyway I know of more convenient ways to add 30 -40 liter brine to a filter.

I get your point about the Masterpure filter though, as I have returned one myself because they are useless, and designed my own 3 step whole house filter system which works fully automatic.

Thanks for the link to the Brim supplier. Any idea about the price?

[Sheryl]

No, I haven't contacted them yet. Waiting on the results of water testing, and also to see how it goes with the new resin filter.

You can in fact drain the unit from the top, perhaps not 100% but to a large extent relying on the water pressure (especially if open to air from elsewhere). Been doing it for years. As for dilution of the brine, easy to adjust for that - the solution I add has only as much water as needed to mix the salt, so it is very concentrated.

What brand filter unit are you using?

[GinBoy2]

Are we over complicating this? Like Sheryl says the advantage of Brim is that it only needs backwash with water, which is no different to carbon, hence my earlier comment that the carbon filter doesn't really care what filter material you pour into it.

The Mazuma carbon filter would do fine for this application...but make sure you have a sediment filter first, otherwise all you are doing is clogging the brim or carbon with the general crud from the water supply

[Anthony5]

No, I haven't contacted them yet. Waiting on the results of water testing, and also to see how it goes with the new resin filter.

You can in fact drain the unit from the top, perhaps not 100% but to a large extent relying on the water pressure (especially if open to air from elsewhere). Been doing it for years. As for dilution of the brine, easy to adjust for that - the solution I add has only as much water as needed to mix the salt, so it is very concentrated.

What brand filter unit are you using?

The brand is Anthony5

I purchased 2 fiberglass tanks ( 50 and 75 liter) and one manual 3 way and one automatic 4 way Runxin valve.

One tank has Zeolite ( Zelbrite) inside as sediment filter and the other one Resin. At the end of the chain is 20" big blue filter with a carbon block cartridge.

If the Birm is reasonable in price I would add a 3rd cylinder.

[Bennys]

Thank you guys for all the great info.

when you guys mention abt the sediment filter, do you mean the small filter to put before the big carbon Tank?

Thx

[GinBoy2]

Bennys, read this thread:

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/806718-on-the-subject-of-water-filters/

[Bennys]

Thanks GinBoy2,

will read it.

Bennys, read this thread:

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/806718-on-the-subject-of-water-filters/

[Sheryl]

I only recently discovered sediment filters, wish I had known before as it would have greatly cut down the hassle on backwashing the carbon and resin filters, which (in the absence of a sediment filter) collected tons of sludge.

Should definitely have a sediment filter before other filter, extends the life of the filter media. Also the sediment filters, being catridges, are easier to clean.

[bankruatsteve]

Not sure if the OP got an answer? I just wonder why anybody would want or think they need a whole house filter? For drinking water, it's got to be cheaper in the long run to just buy the big bottles. For washing clothes, you can get the <forget> as a pre-wash just add to the washer. IE: why spend the money for filter system that you need to replace with expensive filters when it is so easy to not do that?

[Sheryl]

When there are very high amounts of iron, manganese etc in the water, pre-wash solutions won't prevent staining. Which will not be limited to the clothes; unsightly brown stains will develop in the sink, shower, toilets etc as well. And, if there is also a lot of calcium in the water (often the case), lime build up will shorten the life of all appliances that use water e.g. washer, water heater, electric kettles etc. As well as forming hard crusts i nthe toilets, on the faucets etc. As well as making it impossible to get really clean (soap residue stays on the body, and there is an uncomfortable rubbery feel to the skin during and after showers, and often itchy skin or skin lesions especially in the dry season when the water table drops. I could go on and on... some water supplies (especially well water) are such that a whole house filter really is necessary.

However, the OP did not specifically ask about washing machine. He asked about the relative merits of one brand of whole house carbon filter over another brand, which I think has been answered.