rattling sound during idle - honda click 110i

[blacksuitdandruff]

Can anyone help me diagnose the cause and solution to this rattling noise during idles?

Thanks.

P.s. sorry for the cruddy recording.

click 110 06-04-2015.wav

[wowjudo]

i'd say cam tensioner or chain damper. somewhere in that region

[blacksuitdandruff]

i'd say cam tensioner or chain damper. somewhere in that region

I don't think that the bike has a chain. It drivenby a belt if I am not mistaken.

[BSJ]

That doesn't sound like a Click.....more like a push motor mower.....your just trying to wind us up, ay!

[ktm jeff]

wowjudo means an engine cam chain - not a rear wheel drive chain . Anyway , i think this engine is OHV , so no cam chain . It sounds a "heavy" knock , more than a rattle , so maybe not tappets , or cam chain , if it had one . Has/did it run out of oil , as it sound like a little end / small end bearing . Could even be excessive piston slap . Can you / a trusted mechanic , take the head / barrel off . Only way to inspect . Check valve clearances and compression first , as that may point you in the right direction . Good luck .

[blacksuitdandruff]

wowjudo means an engine cam chain - not a rear wheel drive chain . Anyway , i think this engine is OHV , so no cam chain . It sounds a "heavy" knock , more than a rattle , so maybe not tappets , or cam chain , if it had one . Has/did it run out of oil , as it sound like a little end / small end bearing . Could even be excessive piston slap . Can you / a trusted mechanic , take the head / barrel off . Only way to inspect . Check valve clearances and compression first , as that may point you in the right direction . Good luck .

it never ran out of oil. Oil has been changed ever 2500 km.

It has about 22,000km on it.

I figured it could be a valve issue.

How can I tell if my mechanic is competent to diagnose and fix the problem?

Most mechanics seem overly confident with their engine skills and I get the sense they pretend to be competent because they know how to change a flat.

[ktm jeff]

Does the engine run OK , with full power ? . Removing the centrifugal clutch cover may show up some worn clutch roller weights or bearings . Finding a good mechanic is half the problem . I can recomend one in Chiang Mai , does that help . Otherwise , post your area , and hopefully someone can offer their recomendations .If the valve clearances are OK , and the compression is OK , then its more "internal" .

[Gsxrnz]

It sounds like piston knock to me, suggesting you've cracked a few rings. Only answer is to pull the barrel/head and have a look. Probably need a re-bore if it is.

Shouldn't cost you much. As somebody posted before, the click 110 is essentially a two wheeled lawnmower anyway.

[blacksuitdandruff]

Does the engine run OK , with full power ? . Removing the centrifugal clutch cover may show up some worn clutch roller weights or bearings . Finding a good mechanic is half the problem . I can recomend one in Chiang Mai , does that help . Otherwise , post your area , and hopefully someone can offer their recomendations .If the valve clearances are OK , and the compression is OK , then its more "internal" .

The engine runs great like when it was new. Full power is fine as the engine is often limited by the variator beyond 85km/h true gps speed or 110 km/h on the speedo.

I live in bkk in Din Daeng.

[blacksuitdandruff]

It sounds like piston knock to me, suggesting you've cracked a few rings. Only answer is to pull the barrel/head and have a look. Probably need a re-bore if it is.

Shouldn't cost you much. As somebody posted before, the click 110 is essentially a two wheeled lawnmower anyway.

Not much is about how much? 1500b?

[papa al]

My fav shop in Patts does a lot of cylinder re-boring.

They take in barrels from shops all around.

100 baht per (small, <150cc).

You should be able to replace the (cracked?) rings and piston for ~1500, assuming no rape.

I'll ask my mech how much when I go over today.

If I remember.

50/50.

5 5.

But at this stage you dunno what is wrong.

There could be small pieces of metal in your oil, not good.

Maybe maintain a small magnet on the oil drain plug to capture any circulating ferrous particles.

I do this on my bikes.

The boys who do my oil changes seem to think it is a clever idea.

Kindly apprise us on how this resolves.

[blacksuitdandruff]

My fav shop in Patts does a lot of cylinder re-boring.

They take in barrels from shops all around.

100 baht per (small, <150cc).

You should be able to replace the (cracked?) rings and piston for ~1500, assuming no rape.

I'll ask my mech how much when I go over today.

If I remember.

50/50.

5 5.

But at this stage you dunno what is wrong.

There could be small pieces of metal in your oil, not good.

Maybe maintain a small magnet on the oil drain plug to capture any circulating ferrous particles.

I do this on my bikes.

The boys who do my oil changes seem to think it is a clever idea.

Kindly apprise us on how this resolves.

Did you happen to remember to ask?

[papa al]

Ooops.

Monday.

Edited June 6, 2015 by papa al

[blacksuitdandruff]

Just wanted to give you all an update on my bike…

So I asked about three different motorbike taxi stations where a good mechanic shop would be in my area. They offered many places but two the drivers said this one shop was the best. So I went there after being told at another shop that there was no weird sound with my bike at all (I think he as either deaf or paid hourly and didn’t want to work).

(Please excuse me if I don’t properly identify the parts of the bike as I’m not that experienced.)

When opening up cover to the drivetrain (?) they immediately noticed that the drive belt was old and cracked. I also could see that it was quite loose with slack when not accelerating…not good. They also recommended that the roller weights be changed along the oil seal to the front drive axle (?).

After changing the parts they said that the sound was gone. I agreed.

I paid…

1) OIL SEAL FOR DRIVETRAIN - 120B

2) BELT DRIVE - 520B

3) ROLLER SET WEIGHTS - 420B

Total of 1120 baht for all genuine Honda parts (at least they had the Honda sticker on the part bags).

Service took about 15 minutes.

When I drove home, I could tell that the throttle was much more responsive and that the bike accelerated smoother with less vibration and noise. Also the idle rattle sound was gone. That night I drove more but noticed the idle rattle sound was back when the engine was cold. But when driving at high speeds, the speed limiting effect on the bike (it feels like the throttle cuts out to regulate the top speed every second - on and off) was no longer there. Also the bike accelerated faster and also maintained a higher speed by about 5kmh. Not bad. Solved another existing problem but not the one pressing one.

So the next day I went to the shop again. They opened the drivetrain cover and said that the front drive cog needed to be replaced because the shim that goes between the axle and the cog (?) had some play in it and that was causing the rattle sound. I asked why this was not discovered just a day ago – no logical answer. Seemed like their strategy was just to replace as many parts as possible for profit in hopes of fixing the problem. The part was 550b and I passed on it.

Surprisingly while driving home, the sound was completely gone. It was dead silent almost during idles. So I’m guessing that they didn’t tighten a bold enough or that some part needed to be seated differently. Either way, I’m happy now and the bike has run silent without the idle rattle sound for 5 days now. It doesn’t matter if the engine is cold or warm, there is no sound. I can also control the bike much easier at slower speeds because of the greater throttle sensitivity. Funny because it was pretty easy to handle slow before - gravy.

In summation, maybe I only needed to change the drive belt and tighten a few bolts. Yes maybe I need to check my valves as it’s about time – next month. Yes maybe I spent an extra 600b on the roller weights and the oil seal but I don’t think I’m going to starve to death. Also, I budgeted 1500b to fix this problem as the bike has not any mechanical issue for the 3 years of ownership. I have only changed oils and tires and brakes. So 500b/year on engine/drivetrain maintenance is less than half of what I spend on my cheapest of cheap bicycles.

Thank you for all of those that gave suggestions and took the time to read my OP and this follow up. Thanks again and happy riding!