Bangkok apartments for the single, retired guy

[frankv42]

I'll be retiring to Bkk in a few months, and would like any opinions as to which areas suit my needs, and any specific recommendations. I speak and read some Thai, and lived in Bkk 25 years ago (it has certainly changed!). I've lived in the middle of Shanghai for the past 13 years, so urban crowds don't bother me.

1. Budget: B30k rent for 1 br (not a studio) in Central Bangkok, min. 45m2 with pool and gym (1 yr lease). I can pay 6-12 months in advance; has anyone done this and reduced rent enough to make it worthwhile? Or can you then get out of paying part or all of the 2 month deposit? I keep hearing of all the new condos being built, but the listed prices still seems high, so I assume there's some decent reduction possible especially if can pay in advance and am patient/persistent.

2. Lifestyle: big into walking in green areas so within a few km of a large park like Lumphini or Benjakitti, near (within 700m?) bts or mrt, middle of city but quiet soi, I like malls and eating in those, like street food, like to listen to live music or play pool at night, would like to be able to walk to all those or at least a short bts/mrt ride.
I'd prefer an area that has some character.

3. I've looked online, and thus far the following areas interest me the most:
a. Langsuan Road general area south of Chitlom and north of Lumphini (expensive area tho), also north of ploenchit has some nice places.
b. between Nana and Phrom Phong, especially on the south side of Suk where it may be quieter and closer to Benjakitti
c. Lumphini (south and east of Rama IV) or Sathorn area
d. Ratchatewi (near Victory Monument) or National Stadium areas

Of course I'll look around the areas when I get there, but I'm just trying to narrow my options.
Thank you.

[wordchild]

your budget should get you a nice, good sized 1 bed pretty much in any of the locations you mention, prices obviously vary depending on location, quality of the building, furnishing etc but as a rule of thumb, for a well located condo, central Bangkok, in a good building (but not super prime) you should target a monthly rent in baht of around half the size in sqm of the condo ie a 60sqm condo should rent for around 30000 bt plus or minus a bit.

yes, it can help to offer a chunk upfront , i have done this myself, in the past, and got a big discount (20% off the advertised) by offering to pay the first year in full, in advance. However, in that case i was dealing direct with the owner not sure you would get that dealing through an agent.. There is no substitute for doing some legwork walk the areas you are interested in if you like the look of a condo go in and talk to the staff on the desk they will often know whats available and may even show you a couple that they have keys for. when you know what buildings you like check out prakard.com agents and owners advertise on there.

I have lived in a couple of the areas you mention these are my thoughts; a),Langsuan lived there for a few months early days in Bangkok ,i didnt really like it (my wife hated it) , if you are far down (near the park) its a bit cut off difficult to get anywhere , long way to walk and its one way, traffic can be bad on sarasin. not a big fan of lumpini i much prefer benjakitti. Ploenchit esp near the sky train is much better , have a look at ruam rudee. (there is an elevated footpath that connects from the bottom of ruam rudee with benjakitti and lumpini)

b nana, lived on soi 11 for a while and really liked it; there are a couple of decent condos deep in the soi, problem with the taxi touts but plenty of motocys to take you to the bts. asoke/ phrom pong, this is the area we live in now and we love it , convenient for most things , have a look at soi 23 and 31 to 39 (they all link up) on the north and sois 16,18,20,22,24 on the south.

c) Sathorn again lived here for a few months its also where i work, some of the sois around here are pretty and quiet but found it a bit dull as an area to live in and also not so convenient.

Edited August 1, 2015 by wordchild

[smokie36]

Take the MRT to Petchaburi and check out the condos....there or Phrom Pong.....probably the best two areas for convenience.

[frankv42]

Thank you for the great answers. I had never heard of the ruamrudee footpath before, it looks perfect. I attached a picture I found online.

I was planning on doing legwork (until heat exhaustion got to me) first instead of an agent, which is why I wanted to narrow down to a few areas first.

1. I was planning on only looking within walking distance to BTS Chitlom or Ploenchit, not so near Lumphini. Ruamrudee 2 looks too close to the highway, but Ruamrudee looks okay. I'm curious why you don't like the upper Langsuan or nearby streets that are closer to Ploenchit Road. For my first place, that would seem to be a way to ease into Bangkok life. South of Suk between Nana and Asok also seems good for me.

2. I thought Soi 11 area would have too much traffic with the bars at night, but I'll check out the upper end of soi 11-13.

3. The Prakard website is a mystery to me how to access, I get to a page that says Prakard Forum Installation and can't get past that.

4. I had the same doubt as you said about Sathorn, so I'll skip that area.

5. Suk Sois 16-24 look good, but being too close to certain soi 22-26 venues might prove too tempting and get me thrown off plan in leading a somewhat "normal" life in Bangkok!

6. I thought Phetchaburi was a very busy, large road without character or any parks in the vicinity, so I didn't look closely at that area. Same for Thonglor or Ekkamai areas, though I've never been to either. (they would meet my live music/wine bar type places I like)

[wordchild]

The top end of languan would be better than further down, one thing you may not know is that most of langsuan is on royal land and the whole area is being redeveloped by the crown property so huge amount of demolition and construction going on there right now. I believe it will be good when it's all done but going to be a mess for a couple more years. I suppose much depends on lifestyle we have young kids with schools,playgroups,friends etc mostly in the asoke-thonglor area, it's curious but even though it's quite central the langsuan/sarasin area feels quite cut-off when you live there if your/your children's social life is sukhumvit.

Soi 11 is fine, but you need to be deep in the soi down near the klong, that is actually a nice quiet area away from the bars. But, as I said, for us the best area to live in Bangkok is the stretch from asoke to phrom pong.

It's Prakard.com, try searching for Bangkok condo prakard or something like that.

[Marcel1]

I think you are on the good way already but did you think about chatuchak area? Close to the park where you will find the rest, better value for money and easy connected to all the malls by bts. Never lived around there tho so I dont know abt the atmosphere but I believe there are some nice bars around vic monument (never been too).

I live around sathorn and soi 1 could be an option also since its close to lumpini and has many restaurants/bars

[berybert]

Go to soi 38 take the first turning on the right. There is a small condo just before the bend on the LHS few 1 bed 50 meter places there for around 20 thousand very quiet. Called 38 condo if memory serves me well. Ask at reception for a list of empty rooms.

[frankv42]

Attached is a list of condos that I see online from Nana - Asok area.

Does anyone have anymore to recommend, and any off this list to look at or stay away from?

The prices are the online prices. I'll go to specific condos and ask directly, just getting a list together. At this point, my favorite area would be Sukhumvit on the south side (even numbered sois), so that it is quieter and close to walking path between Lumphini and Benjakitti. At this point I still prefer to live somewhere closer to central Bangkok, between Ratchthewi and Phrom Phrong, within walking distance of BTS. I have a target condo list for the other areas as well. Thank you.

[JB300]

In a similar position (exactly the same budget) & decided to take the approach of finding a condo for rent on AirBnB in the area I'm interested in & spending a month living there to get a feel for the place.

Only done 1 so far (Trendy Apartments on Soi13) which quickly made me realize that I needed to be further out of town if I'm to live a "Normal" life so going to try somewhere around Soi-Mid30s next.

[frankv42]

In a similar position (exactly the same budget) & decided to take the approach of finding a condo for rent on AirBnB in the area I'm interested in & spending a month living there to get a feel for the place.

Only done 1 so far (Trendy Apartments on Soi13) which quickly made me realize that I needed to be further out of town if I'm to live a "Normal" life so going to try somewhere around Soi-Mid30s next.

That's an interesting way to do it. I saw many condos I was looking at also advertised on AirBnB. I have a few weeks of free hotels that are in some of the areas I may like, so I was going to use those. Did you find yourself going out too much? Will moving to Thonglor solve that?

I've lived in Asia a very long time, including a year in Bangkok. I doubt I'll have the same problem, but Bangkok does strange things to people! Other than Trendy (what did you think of it?), did you look at any other condos? Especially did you look across Sukhumvit from Trendy? Thanks.

[JB300]

In a similar position (exactly the same budget) & decided to take the approach of finding a condo for rent on AirBnB in the area I'm interested in & spending a month living there to get a feel for the place.

Only done 1 so far (Trendy Apartments on Soi13) which quickly made me realize that I needed to be further out of town if I'm to live a "Normal" life so going to try somewhere around Soi-Mid30s next.

That's an interesting way to do it. I saw many condos I was looking at also advertised on AirBnB. I have a few weeks of free hotels that are in some of the areas I may like, so I was going to use those. Did you find yourself going out too much? Will moving to Thonglor solve that?

I've lived in Asia a very long time, including a year in Bangkok. I doubt I'll have the same problem, but Bangkok does strange things to people! Other than Trendy (what did you think of it?), did you look at any other condos? Especially did you look across Sukhumvit from Trendy? Thanks.

I think my biggest mistake was getting a Studio apartment instead of a 1 Bedroom so it felt more like a hotel room & I was more or less driven out all of the time (at least it answered the question about whether I could live in a studio apartment... Definitely not)...

Lived in Asia for 7 years, 6 1/2 in Singapore with the last 2 1/2 of those living in the City Centre but had no problem in living a normal life & not going out all the time as I had more of a "home" (2 Bedroom place) & all of my stuff around me (biggie being my Minix box so I could watch whatever I wanted on TV), another lesson learnt, I'll take my Minix box with me next time).

Edited August 18, 2015 by JB300

[Kaoboi Bebobp]

I have a friend with the same budget. He's lived in 3 lovely condos on Suk 23, 39 and 45. In two cases, he's had to move because of a new condo being raised outside his windows. In the latest one on 39, he feels he has to move again this fall for the same reason. By the way, the agent lied to him about 45, saying the new condo building was only going to be 8 storeys when it's (still) heading for 30+. So, just a warning about your choice. Do a recon around the area of the place you like.

[candoman89]

Try Sukhumvit Living Town on Asoke just across the street from Rutnin Eye clinic. about 200 m to Klong San Saeb and 300 m to Petchaburi MRT station.

One bedroom condo is 15,000 Baht/month.

Fairly new apartment, big pool, exercise room etc.

[bkksteve123]

From personal experience I can only speak of Silom/Sathorn area, and could recommend checking out the following:

The Seed Mingle (Sathorn/Suanphlu) Suanphlu soi 8 - 31 floor midrange condominium completed in 2013, decent facilites, very nice foreign/local mixed area with plenty of food options (both thai and western), not too far from Lumphini Park, Silom (Sala Daeng) BTS/Lumphini MRT etc. Popular with middle class thai's and foreigners working in Silom. 1BR would go for around 20-25k depending on floor and size (40-50m2). View is open and green in most units. I lived in this buidling myself in 2013.

Look here for direct owner deal: http://www.prakard.com/default.aspx?g=topics&f=1039

Urbana Sathorn, Sathorn Road (south) opposite from Convent road - 30+ floor condomimuin/hotel building completed in 2008 (I think), higher quality and more luxorious than Seed Mingle. Very nice facilities (some of the best I've seen), closer to BTS (Silom). If you are lucky and bargain a bit, you can find a 1BR (65m2+) for 30k. I have a close friend that lives here (in a 2BR), and visit him on a weekly basis.

Link to see availability: http://www.prakard.com/default.aspx?g=topics&f=179

Silom Grand Terrrace, Soi Saladaeng - Older building so more affordable and the location is one of the best you can get, BTS 150m, Lumphini Park 200m, and Silom Road is right there offering pretty much any food you want. If you can get a high floor and recently renovated apartment then it would be quite nice I think. I've never lived here, nor do I have friends living here, however I've viewed a few apartments but they we're not on a high floor so didn't take any of them. Facilities looked okay, but pool was inside, so that's a minus.

http://www.prakard.com/default.aspx?g=topics&f=108

[doccalamity]

Checkout Siam Penthouse on Soi 8. Has everything close to BTS, close to the walking area through the cut through at the end of the Soi, nice pool, really the perfect place in Bangkok for 30K/month. The places are 80SQM.

[frankv42]

I ended up at The Address Chidlom. A 1br 54m2 high floor and good view on Phetchaburi side was 30k per month and 1 month secrity deposit. 10 min walk to Chidlom station. I paid a year in advance, so not sure if I got a good deal. I do like the well decorated apartment, location, facilities and quality are great. I looked at Siri on 8 (great location but everything else well below this one, also 30k). I didn't like the north side of Sukhumvit at all, 1 giant construction zone, heavy traffic and many blocked views.

If I didn't get this one, I would have looked at Phrom Phrong next.

The Langsuan area from about Urbana south to Rama4 is a construction zone as well. The north side closer to Ploenchit was ok.

I went thru an agent that was recommended to me, and they negotiated with the landlord. A good experience as I moved into a nice place as I wanted in less than a week.

Thanks to all for the help!

[arunsakda]

Pay required deposits and never pay excess rents in advance. Bad neighbors, building, construction noise, worthless landlord, never know if you might want to move.

Any discount won't be worth just more cash in the clutches of greedy landlord you could possibly be fleeced for.

[gk10002000]

Pay required deposits and never pay excess rents in advance. Bad neighbors, building, construction noise, worthless landlord, never know if you might want to move.

Any discount won't be worth just more cash in the clutches of greedy landlord you could possibly be fleeced for.

I concur with this. Flexibility is better. I rent all over the place in the USA as my job takes me away from home. Sometimes I get a decent long term hotel deal, sometimes I rented an apartment, sometimes some furnished places etc. The discounts are not worth it. So many times I run into neighbor problems, utility issues, landlord nuttiness, barking dogs seem to flock to where ever I rent, etc. The rules hold double in Thailand. After 14 visits, most have been OK, but 2 or 3 where I signed leases were problems and I couldn't wait until the term was up

[Rocketsurgeon]

Spend a few days riding the bus, make sure that's what you want to do.

I really detest it. Tourists, lost tourists, sex tourists, dirty Pakistanis in soiled linens. Pushy Thais getting to work. Central station crowded, staff unfriendly. Machines slow, tedious.

Cop shakedown complaints on TVisa always name Suk as problem area.

[fey]

these questions with specific criteria always seem a bit strange when they come up.

at retirement age you should realize that its all subjective. bit you have to start somewhere.

heres my two cents:

i lived near benjakiti south side of sukhumvit near queen sirikit mrt for about 3 months scouting as a possible long term option. did not work out. great nice apt, quiet, tree lined street, markets etc. about 15-20k.

problem was the lifestyle.

its hot so i tended to stick around the apt most of the time and could not venture out much during the day, or walk that far. im an outdoor walking man and not an indoor taxi and a/c type man fyi.

i ended up hanging out in shopping malls during the day and bars at night. if thats your thing great.

personally i like access to more outdoor activites in a milder climate.

benjakiti park is great though. used to walk over there a couple times a week to get away from the crowds and watch the lake.

if your really into benjakiti as some people really are i would question whether bkk is really right for you if you dont have other reasons for living there, lkke sex addiction or work. some time there diring the weekday can really help you think and consider your options.

Edited October 21, 2015 by fey

[frankv42]

An update:

1. Walk to Benjakiti and around from location just north of Chit Lom is 16km...perfect morning walk and along the bike path connecting Lumpini and Benjakiti, don't have to dodge many cars. I go about 0630, and it's not too hot for me at this time of year anyway.

2. Walk to Lumpini and around a few times is 12-14, depending upon route inside park...perfect. Good group of people there enjoying exercise.

3. At the condo; very quiet, great swimming pool and gym, no negatives so far in the 2 weeks I've lived here. Thus far no 2nd thoughts about paying in advance, good decision for me.

4. Thai lessons, pool league, chess club, love of live music, dating regular Thais and eventually more activities (as well as work) will hopefully keep me out of Cowboy/Nana bars too often.

This is my 2nd time living in Bangkok, and I'm remembering why I liked it so much before. There's really a lot to do here. To each his own.

[frankv42]

A quick update for those interested in moving to Bkk. All the above still holds true + I'm studying Thai M-F 3 hrs daily, and have USA Netflix/NFL/MLB packages. For now I'm really enjoying Bkk. The condo is better than I could have hoped for. My overall spending is about Bt75k monthly (w/o scrimping) and I easily got a retirement type visa.

[taiwangirl]

Thank you for the update. It is always nice to hear that things are going well when someone reports with an update.

[bkkcanuck8]

In a similar position (exactly the same budget) & decided to take the approach of finding a condo for rent on AirBnB in the area I'm interested in & spending a month living there to get a feel for the place.

Only done 1 so far (Trendy Apartments on Soi13) which quickly made me realize that I needed to be further out of town if I'm to live a "Normal" life so going to try somewhere around Soi-Mid30s next.

I would think a "Normal" life would take you to places like maybe Pak Nam, Samut Prakan..... well... maybe in a year when they finish the Skytrain links to the area.... Normal yet sort of hectic streets.....