What tool do I need to tighten this?

[giddyup]

The one you can tighten with a spanner giddyup....If you have a hacksaw screw it in and then cut it off so it doesnt protrude and look ugly...

BUT...leave some of the nut there in case you want to take it out again at some time....

Thought of that, but it won't make any difference. The tap will still only screw into the extension piece the same amount, so the tap still won't be flush with the wall plate.

[weegee]

The one you can tighten with a spanner giddyup....If you have a hacksaw screw it in and then cut it off so it doesnt protrude and look ugly...

BUT...leave some of the nut there in case you want to take it out again at some time....

Thought of that, but it won't make any difference. The tap will still only screw into the extension piece the same amount, so the tap still won't be flush with the wall plate.

Ok...now i follow your situation. Hope it works out for you.

Edited September 5, 2015 by weegee

[bankruatsteve]

Maybe I'm the only one that doesn't know what you mean by "shower tap" - but, if it's the shut-off valve with a blue flange - that might be your issue. Not sure what you have, but the ones I have in the past are crap. The flange doesn't have any wiggle room and only leaves about 1/2 the thread to flush up. Very difficult to do. I usually throw away the flange and just put filler to cover the hole. BUT - those kind of shut-off valves are usually CRAP. I am currently in the process of replacing all those kind that I put in 3 years ago and have now corroded to the point where they don't work and actually break off when try to unscrew - which leads to more headache. If any of this is close to your situation, I suggest you throw away what you have and get stainless steel valve (make sure it says that) and it won't have a flange so you don't have to worry about that. Just use filler and/or colored caulk to fill the hole.

[manfredtillmann]

4 times tape is not enough! Should be at at least 15 times. Take care about winding direction!. 4 times will be leaking!

Not according to a Google search, but I guess it's whatever works.

this is why i advised not to use teflon tape. it is yesterdays stuff, there are much better products on the market. try shopping for gas sealer, comes in liquid form, like ky gelly!!!

fitting brass to poly is always risky, cross threading an option you won't detect until the mould grows out of the wall in the room next doors. using teflon tape will destroy all 'feeling' for your connection being good or not.

only amateurs use ptf tape...

Is it easy enough to remove the fitting once the gas sealer has set? If it's performed a watertight seal I guess there will be no reason to, but as long as it doesn't act like super glue.

without knowing the exact chemical properties i belief it is a cristaline bonding system. it will 'crack' by appling force but it will absorb thermal expansion without fault. read the specs on the webpage i posted.

[giddyup]

Maybe I'm the only one that doesn't know what you mean by "shower tap" - but, if it's the shut-off valve with a blue flange - that might be your issue. Not sure what you have, but the ones I have in the past are crap. The flange doesn't have any wiggle room and only leaves about 1/2 the thread to flush up. Very difficult to do. I usually throw away the flange and just put filler to cover the hole. BUT - those kind of shut-off valves are usually CRAP. I am currently in the process of replacing all those kind that I put in 3 years ago and have now corroded to the point where they don't work and actually break off when try to unscrew - which leads to more headache. If any of this is close to your situation, I suggest you throw away what you have and get stainless steel valve (make sure it says that) and it won't have a flange so you don't have to worry about that. Just use filler and/or colored caulk to fill the hole.

Shower tap, the tap used to turn the water on and off allowing one to take a shower.

[richardrb]

4 times tape is not enough! Should be at at least 15 times. Take care about winding direction!. 4 times will be leaking!

Not according to a Google search, but I guess it's whatever works.

Good luck!

My experience says it will not work. And experience you can not buy!

Arjen.

When you searched on Google, and it said 4 wraps, that was for the type of fittings (NPT) we have in the USA. They are tapered fittings and will seal with little or even no tape. But here in LOS the fittings are NOT tapered (BSPP type) and will leak without just the right amount of tape, normally 10-14 winds. Too little, you have a leak. Too much, and you crack the female PVC connector. I brought a bunch of 1" 3/4" and 1/2" NPT fittings with me for our new house in Krabi, I hate water leaks.

In the US I normally use a Teflon paste T4 that works really well, but here the fittings are too loose for that. 10-15 wraps and make your own taper, more tape on the far end (the correct direction so that when you tighten the fitting it won't be unwrapping your tape).

Types of fittings:

http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals/

[Pomthai]

As above wrap the tape clockwise this is so that when screwing the fitting in the tape is pushed onwards don't back it out. 4 wraps isn't enough. 10 to 15 will do. It'll seal. Screw it in and leave it. As tight as you can get it by hand then about half a turn. It doesn't need to be bastard tight.

Edited September 6, 2015 by Pomthai

[bankruatsteve]

Maybe I'm the only one that doesn't know what you mean by "shower tap" - but, if it's the shut-off valve with a blue flange - that might be your issue. Not sure what you have, but the ones I have in the past are crap. The flange doesn't have any wiggle room and only leaves about 1/2 the thread to flush up. Very difficult to do. I usually throw away the flange and just put filler to cover the hole. BUT - those kind of shut-off valves are usually CRAP. I am currently in the process of replacing all those kind that I put in 3 years ago and have now corroded to the point where they don't work and actually break off when try to unscrew - which leads to more headache. If any of this is close to your situation, I suggest you throw away what you have and get stainless steel valve (make sure it says that) and it won't have a flange so you don't have to worry about that. Just use filler and/or colored caulk to fill the hole.

Shower tap, the tap used to turn the water on and off allowing one to take a shower.

OK - I call a shut-off valve, whatever. Again, I think you will be better off getting rid of the flange and maybe the whole valve if it's not stainless steel.

[giddyup]

Maybe I'm the only one that doesn't know what you mean by "shower tap" - but, if it's the shut-off valve with a blue flange - that might be your issue. Not sure what you have, but the ones I have in the past are crap. The flange doesn't have any wiggle room and only leaves about 1/2 the thread to flush up. Very difficult to do. I usually throw away the flange and just put filler to cover the hole. BUT - those kind of shut-off valves are usually CRAP. I am currently in the process of replacing all those kind that I put in 3 years ago and have now corroded to the point where they don't work and actually break off when try to unscrew - which leads to more headache. If any of this is close to your situation, I suggest you throw away what you have and get stainless steel valve (make sure it says that) and it won't have a flange so you don't have to worry about that. Just use filler and/or colored caulk to fill the hole.

Shower tap, the tap used to turn the water on and off allowing one to take a shower.

OK - I call a shut-off valve, whatever. Again, I think you will be better off getting rid of the flange and maybe the whole valve if it's not stainless steel.

The "flange", which is actually a plastic elbow is inside the wall, only accessible when the tap (stainless steel) and wall plate are removed. All the plumbing is blue plastic pipe in Thailand. Unless you build the house yourself that's what you get. Just so you know what a shower tap looks like, here's a photo.

[bankruatsteve]

Thanks for the photo - that is not what I had in mind. Not sure how many installations have one like that versus a simple shut-off but I can see your issue. Good luck.

[giddyup]

Thanks for the photo - that is not what I had in mind. Not sure how many installations have one like that versus a simple shut-off but I can see your issue. Good luck.

I don't know why you keep referring to a "shut-off valve". This is a shower tap, the one you turn on when you step into the shower. Turning the handle anti-clockwise allows the water to come out of the shower nozzle. Not sure what you have where you live, but this is one of the most common shower taps in Thailand.

Edited September 6, 2015 by giddyup

[bankruatsteve]

Thanks for the photo - that is not what I had in mind. Not sure how many installations have one like that versus a simple shut-off but I can see your issue. Good luck.

I don't know why you keep referring to a "shut-off valve". This is a shower tap, the one you turn on when you step into the shower. You pull the handle towards you to allow the water to come out of the shower nozzle. If you have hot water plumbed into your shower turning the handle to the left or right adjusts the temperature. Not sure what you have where you live, but this is one of the most common shower taps in Thailand.

Just trying to help. The following is what I thought you might have (and for anybody interested are complete crap). I don't share your opinion of "most common" but it doesn't really matter does it.

[giddyup]

Thanks for the photo - that is not what I had in mind. Not sure how many installations have one like that versus a simple shut-off but I can see your issue. Good luck.

I don't know why you keep referring to a "shut-off valve". This is a shower tap, the one you turn on when you step into the shower. You pull the handle towards you to allow the water to come out of the shower nozzle. If you have hot water plumbed into your shower turning the handle to the left or right adjusts the temperature. Not sure what you have where you live, but this is one of the most common shower taps in Thailand.

Just trying to help. The following is what I thought you might have (and for anybody interested are complete crap). I don't share your opinion of "most common" but it doesn't really matter does it.

Shut-off.JPG

Yes, I have those as well, but only where the water comes into the toilet cisterns, and there's also one for the kitchen sink. It's so you can isolate the water supply to put a new valve in the cistern or fit a new tap.

Edited September 6, 2015 by giddyup

[giddyup]

Has anyone seen these kind of extension fittings in plastic instead of brass?

[Don Mega]

Thanks for the photo - that is not what I had in mind. Not sure how many installations have one like that versus a simple shut-off but I can see your issue. Good luck.

I don't know why you keep referring to a "shut-off valve". This is a shower tap, the one you turn on when you step into the shower. You pull the handle towards you to allow the water to come out of the shower nozzle. If you have hot water plumbed into your shower turning the handle to the left or right adjusts the temperature. Not sure what you have where you live, but this is one of the most common shower taps in Thailand.

Just trying to help. The following is what I thought you might have (and for anybody interested are complete crap). I don't share your opinion of "most common" but it doesn't really matter does it.

Very common in every house (and a lot of hotels) I have showered in Thailand.

[Crossy]

Maybe already posted, but why not screw the 'nutless' extension onto the shower tap (tighten with your Mole or water-pump pliers) then screw the extended tap into the wall?

[giddyup]

Maybe already posted, but why not screw the 'nutless' extension onto the shower tap (tighten with your Mole or water-pump pliers) then screw the extended tap into the wall?

That would work as well. I just want to get a feel for the resistance of screwing on the extension by hand, I don't want to overtighten and run the risk of cracking the plastic elbow.

[GavinK]

Large screwdriver inserted and adjustable spanner to turn it, use a liquid thread sealer only give some time to set/dry before finishing off the job.

+1. I fitted one of these a while back and used the widest screwdriver I had. Worked just fine.

[TheFiend]

4 times tape is not enough! Should be at at least 15 times. Take care about winding direction!. 4 times will be leaking!

Not according to a Google search, but I guess it's whatever works.

this is why i advised not to use teflon tape. it is yesterdays stuff, there are much better products on the market. try shopping for gas sealer, comes in liquid form, like ky gelly!!!

only amateurs use ptf tape...

I'm a professional, an engineer, and we still use PTFE tape every day. Yes there are newer types of sealant on the market but PTFE tape is just as good.

[sometimewoodworker]

4 times tape is not enough! Should be at at least 15 times. Take care about winding direction!. 4 times will be leaking!

Not according to a Google search, but I guess it's whatever works.

The number of times will depend on how tight the thread fits, loose and Arjen is correct, tight and Google is.