2-4-D Tree & Brush Killer

[kjun12]

Where can I buy this or a similar product to kill trees and brush along a fence line?

[CLW]

I would be careful with that stuff. It's highly toxic.

Anyway you have to use some tools and manual work to remove the leftovers.

So I would just use a brush cutter with a blade.

[kjun12]

Thanks for he advice.

[drtreelove]

It's not always highly toxic, depends on the form of the product and application method to minimize exposure for the applicator.

http://www.npic.orst.edu/factsheets/24Dgen.pdf

Before deciding on a weed control strategy with only 2, 4-D, consider that it only kills broadleaf weeds, not grasses. Most fence-line vegetation is mixed; take a close look and compose your tank mix accordingly. Even though there is a lot of controversy right now about Round Up (Glyphosate) I would chose that over 2, 4-D for a mixed grass and broadleaf weed control, if mechanical removal is not practical. If you buy 48% glyphosate (Gai Fo Set) active ingredient, mix it at 5 oz of product per gallon of water to get a 4% solution. (9oz per gallon gives you a 7% maximum label rate, and the strongest mixture you would ever need, with exception of cut stump treatment which needs 20-25%). Wait two weeks for full results.

Killing trees with an herbicide is another matter, depending on size and if they will be cut first or if you will spray the foliage.

A brush cutter (krueng tat ya) is not always the best tool of choice along a fence-line. The plastic string on string-trimmers gets eaten up right away when the fence is hit, and a bladed cutter will get dulled right away and/or chew up the fence, or kick pieces back at you. But I agree that manual weed control is something to consider before herbicides. Sometimes the herbicide option is more efficient and cost-effective. Knowing what the target plants are, what the appropriate material or tank mix is for effective control, and how to use it safely should all be considered.

Post photos of your weeds and fenceline and you may get more suggestions. How about a goat?

Edited November 20, 2015 by drtreelove

[slapout]

stihl make a weed wacker head that uses plastic cutter blades, it requires 3 for the head and the blades can be purchased in

bulk at most larger dealers. the blades are mounted so they are only protruding from the head when it is running at cutting speed.

edges of blade are not knife sharp but do a good job and last for a good amount of time. They work good in fence rows, wooden or metal (they fold back instead of breaking if metal post is hit) they are much less dangerous to personal injury to operator or someone near by also. we would run thru 3 changes a day working about 6 to 8 hours sometimes more sometimes less. depends on how long you have put the job off.

[cooked]

It's not always highly toxic, depends on the form of the product and application method to minimize exposure for the applicator.

http://www.npic.orst.edu/factsheets/24Dgen.pdf

Before deciding on a weed control strategy with only 2, 4-D, consider that it only kills broadleaf weeds, not grasses. Most fence-line vegetation is mixed; take a close look and compose your tank mix accordingly. Even though there is a lot of controversy right now about Round Up (Glyphosate) I would chose that over 2, 4-D for a mixed grass and broadleaf weed control, if mechanical removal is not practical. If you buy 48% glyphosate (Gai Fo Set) active ingredient, mix it at 5 oz of product per gallon of water to get a 4% solution. (9oz per gallon gives you a 7% maximum label rate, and the strongest mixture you would ever need, with exception of cut stump treatment which needs 20-25%). Wait two weeks for full results.

Killing trees with an herbicide is another matter, depending on size and if they will be cut first or if you will spray the foliage.

A brush cutter (krueng tat ya) is not always the best tool of choice along a fence-line. The plastic string on string-trimmers gets eaten up right away when the fence is hit, and a bladed cutter will get dulled right away and/or chew up the fence, or kick pieces back at you. But I agree that manual weed control is something to consider before herbicides. Sometimes the herbicide option is more efficient and cost-effective. Knowing what the target plants are, what the appropriate material or tank mix is for effective control, and how to use it safely should all be considered.

Post photos of your weeds and fenceline and you may get more suggestions. How about a goat?

I agree about the 2, 4-D, I haven't bought any in years. With Glyphosate I think it would be of advantage to cut everything back and spray the regrowth, less product needed and easier to apply accurately. Up here we are entering the dry season and from experience glyphosate will work very slowly unless the weeds are watered. You will likely need to spray again later on.

4%: does NOT mean 5 oz per gallon, it means 4 dl in an 10 litre tank. I haven't seen any measuring cylinders or sprayers marked in gallons in Thailand yet.

The nylon lines in Thailand are rubbish, I was using a 4 mm thick line in Switzerland and that went through almost everything, going a long a fence still lasted for 20 minutes or so.