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Drain Hole in bathroom Floor


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Posted

I have a newly built bathroom,The floor is coloured concrete

and the builder has left the drain hole as a 2 inch PVC pipe sticking

up about 8 inches.It's a Thai style shower withiut a shower trayThe water just goes on the floor and out this drain hole.

So I read the dimentions on the pipe and bought a 2 inch drain hole cover brought it home but it was too big.

So I have 2 questions,

1-why did the 2 inch drain cover not fit.I can think of two reasons.

Either you have to buy a smaller size cover than the pipe size or the girl in the

shop was bull____ing.

2--How do I cut the pipe down to the floor nice and cleanly.

Posted

How can water on floor exit a pipe that is sticking up 8 inches?

Normally you will want a trap to keep smells from coming back up any drain so pipe is cut below floor surface and drain is installed at surface level.

img_bath_floordrain_width_475_height_250

Posted

Have to ask, before you do anything, where does the outlet drain into?

If it's connected to any type of line/container that can off-gas then you'll want to think about installing a trap/drain to keep the smell down.

When dealing with any kind of pipe, there is OD and ID (Outside and Inside Diameter) measurement, and while usually a coupler will connect to the outside of a pipe, sometimes it may 'sleave' inside a pipe to prevent leaks.

Posted

There is a U-bend(P-trap)under the concrete even though the pipe doesn't

connect with any other pipe.

It says 2 inch on the pipe and that is usualy the inside measurment.

If I can cut the pipe down I can bring the cut off to the hardware shop

and just buy a cover that fits it.

So how do I cut it down and do I cut it down flush with the floor or

just below it.

Posted

If you are paying for this new-build, I would get the builder back to finish the drain.

If that's too hard, I would assume the pipe they left sticking up is stuck in the actual drain pipe to stop the floor cement blocking it. It may need some effort to pull it out, then one can go about setting a proper drain cover. If they haven't recessed it already for a combination trap & drain cover, then unless there's a trap elsewhere in the plumbing, it is going to cause smells. Otherwise, some routing of the cement floor will be required. Good job it's not a tiled floor.

Posted

There is a U-bend(P-trap)under the concrete even though the pipe doesn't

connect with any other pipe.

The pipe must lead to some place to allow the water to exit so not sure what you mean it doesn't connect with any other pipe?

Are you sure there is a trap? They are not normally used for floor drains here and the normal type for basin needs access to clean. If you have a basic Thai cement floor it seems unlikely unless you installed it.

Posted

Yes,I insisted that they put a U-bend(P-trap in it.

I will double check tomorrow but I am nearly sure that the

pipe sticking up is all one piece.

So,if that's the case I will have to cut out a piece of the concrete around where

the drain cover is going to go and some how cut the pipe below the surface.

How do I do this without buying a router.

Posted

If you have a drill you should be able to find some kind of cutting bit that could be used to both trim plastic and cement but why is the contractor not completing the job? You should have have to worry about this. In worst case you could burn the plastic down with flame or hot poker once cut to floor level. It really would not need a cover unless you want. As long as you do not drop something down it.

Posted

As NanLaew wrote, I'd assume they temporarily stuck the scrape pipe in place to stop the wet floor cement from blocking/obscuring the drain hole. The pipe is most likely only being held in place by friction (not permanently glued into place).

And as lopburi3 wrote, a power drill with a disc cutting bit can be used to cut the pipe down from the inside.

As you already have the u-bend/p-trap in place it seems the only thing you need to do (if you want one) is to mount a finished fitting/screen that will sit flush with the floor and 'sleeve' into the drain pipe.

Posted

There was no contractor and I said that I would

do the pluming myself.

So I supose I could go at it with an angle grinder.

Cut out the outline with a diamond cutter blade then

grind it down with a a concrete grinder blade.

But maybe some one has a better sugestion.

How would this job be done in the west.Would the guy

who put down the floor have fittet the drain cover and not

the plumer who comes later.

Posted

There was no contractor and I said that I would do the pluming myself.

OK, to be clear, you stated that, "The floor is coloured concrete and the builder has left the drain hole as a 2 inch PVC pipe sticking up about 8 inches".
So you don't know if the 8 inch stub is glued in only kept in place by friction and contact with the dried cement floor.
You also didn't have a plan for finishing it (leave it open hole, or mount a finishing piece).
If the pipe is actually glued into place then you can use Power Drill cutting wheel/disc to cut it below the floor surface:

41U4GyIz8%2BL._SX300_.jpg

Posted

Its high time the OP found out how to use a camera phone instead of everyone guessing what he is on about.

OP. Still no one really knows!

To cut a plastic pipe either use a grinder or a hacksaw blade.

Most floor drains are set up with a flange to snugly fit exactly inside a 2inch pipe and if it has a flap to stop insects crawling into the house then probably doesnt need a trap.

I am still wondering about the 8inches and that you read the dimensionns? Read where?

Posted

Sorry about the confusion.

What I need to install is in the picture on Lotburi3's post.

The second post on this page.

I have to wait till tomorrow'when I go there, to see if the pipe can be pulled out

and is only there temporarily.

If not then I will have to install the two pieces in Lotburi's picture.

That means cutting down into the concrete and setting the two pieces

flush with the floor.

Posted

Ig you want to cut it flush with the floor without buying an angle grinder, buy a hacksaw blade, do not put it in a hacksaw and use it to cut flush with the floor. You can then get the proper size cover and install it using some caulking compound to cement it in place. At least that's how I did it when I built my house 17 years ago. Even though my drain goes into a leach field in the orchard, I installed a trap, actually outside the back wall so if I had problems I could dig it up. The trap was installed to keep creepy crawling things from entering the house via the pipe.

Posted

Ig you want to cut it flush with the floor without buying an angle grinder, buy a hacksaw blade, do not put it in a hacksaw and use it to cut flush with the floor. You can then get the proper size cover and install it using some caulking compound to cement it in place. At least that's how I did it when I built my house 17 years ago. Even though my drain goes into a leach field in the orchard, I installed a trap, actually outside the back wall so if I had problems I could dig it up. The trap was installed to keep creepy crawling things from entering the house via the pipe.

Hacksaw blade. Fit the cover at the same time as tiling is done , raising the surface of your floor by a centimetre or two and you will be done.

Posted

I used silicone available in the big tubes that go in a caulking gun. It's also available in small squeezable tubes. Mine came loose a couple of times and I scarped off the old and put it down again using the same stuff. If you are going to tile put it down before you lay the tile.

No need to buy an angle grinder but if you want to spend money you could buy a battery powered Makita Multi-tool for about 13000 baht!

Posted

You can get pretty well any of the normal caulking materials here, they just won't have the names you're expecting from home. No, wall putty won't do in a shower.

As to your drain. Please post photos of the pipe and the cover you've got.

Is your floor at finished level yet? If so you'll need to cut off the pipe slightly below (how much depends upon your cover) and chip out the concrete so the cover nestles down level with the floor.

Otherwise fit the cover and raise the floor to fit.

By the way, I too fell into the cover size trap, a 2" cover may not fit in a 2" pipe. Best to take a sample of pipe to the shop to check.

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