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Posted

I have a new bathroom and I need to install the toilet.

The bathroom has a concrete floor with a PVS pipe sticking up where the toilet should go.

The toilet inself has the U-bend(P-trap} built in..

The pipe sticking out of the floor is about 4.5 inches wide and the place at the bottom af the toilet where that pipe ataches is 3.8 inches wide.

I looked at some videos on uTube and every one was using a spechial flange

to attatch the toilet to the floor.

Is that how they do it in Thailand or do they have another way of doing it.

Posted

No the wc pipe and the soilpipe are the same size so you need a spigot and socket adapter/coupler.

This is mine. The spigot flange you can buy at global anywhere.

The bog pipe should fit snugly into this.

Abother think to remember the centre of the soilpipe must be exactly 305mm from your finished wall tile or you will get a thai bog......one you walk around the back of.....if its less than 305 you have a major prompren!

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Posted (edited)

You need an insert ring from your toilet manufacturer ; something like that :

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThaivisa Connect1448795328.531177.jpg

Are you sure? To me that simply looks like a pipe sleeve centraliser hence the 4 fixing points.

Absolutely sure the OP doesnt need one of those......or the sleeve come to think of it.

Depends on the brand and model.

The closet flange is to seal the sewage pipe to the floor. Normally 4". Outside diameter : 114 mm. See lady on the left in previous picture.

The wax ring is adapted to the model/brand. See lady on the right.

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Large DIY shops provide oftenly plumbing services. If poster of OP is aged he can rely on them...

Or give it a try with YouTube DIY testimonials.

Edited by Thorgal
  • Like 1
Posted

I bought the toilet as a set with the sistern tank all in.

There was no mention of a spechial flange.

The place in the underneath of the toilet where it should

go into the pipe sticking out of the floor is cone shaped.

Maybe it just fits like that.

Posted

The local 'plumbers' will not use the flange and wax ring unless you stand over them and make them. They prefer to just slop some grout around the base of the toilet and hope the flushed material will jump the gap. Most unsanitary and when (not if) it starts to leak you get to clean up the mess.

I have had to go to the manufactuer's stores to buy the flang/wax ring set as it seems that many of the hardware stores do not sell them... or are ignorant about their use and have no idea what you are wanting.

Posted

The local 'plumbers' will not use the flange and wax ring unless you stand over them and make them. They prefer to just slop some grout around the base of the toilet and hope the flushed material will jump the gap. Most unsanitary and when (not if) it starts to leak you get to clean up the mess.

I have had to go to the manufactuer's stores to buy the flang/wax ring set as it seems that many of the hardware stores do not sell them... or are ignorant about their use and have no idea what you are wanting.

+1. It's not a difficult job once you've found the wax gasket (try Boontavorn). You can also find white plastic caps to cover the bolts.

Sloping grout around the base also makes later removal more difficult (toilet base likely to break).

Posted

O.k,thanks.

I will go hunting for the ring but I might not be able to find it.

I will have to get my wife on the phone and I can imagine the

pantomime allready.

But If I can't I will have to do it the Thai way.

Can you describe that .

Cut the pipe off somewhere above the floor and

put tileing grout where the pipe wedges in to the toilet and screw the toilet

to the floor.

The floor is not being tiled so I don't know if I need any more grout

around the base of the toilet.

Posted

It also generally involves 2 buckets of mortar to try seal the base from the inside.

All that gobbo will stop the toilet moving side to side.

If you can get a couple of screws in great but not imperative as you can screw and silicone the cistern back to the wall.....nothing will budge it then

Posted (edited)

I did my own like this with the wax ring, you can buy them at Homepro, some better quality toilets ocme with them but the best method is the one in my previous post

Edited by kannot
Posted

It also generally involves 2 buckets of mortar to try seal the base from the inside.

All that gobbo will stop the toilet moving side to side.

If you can get a couple of screws in great but not imperative as you can screw and silicone the cistern back to the wall.....nothing will budge it then

This is a (no pun) shitty crap method and typically Thai, the other ways guarantee an air tight seal no chance of sewer smells creeping out and easy to replace the toilet any time

Posted (edited)

Very nice kannot. How did you cut the circular hole in the tile?

"carefully" hahahahahahahah you think a circular hole is difficult try cutting this one

Edited by kannot
Posted

Very nice kannot. How did you cut the circular hole in the tile?

Certainly not easy but if using an angle grinder the trick is to keep the blade more hirizontal than vertical and edge your way around and down through the circle marked on a tile. For a square, start with a circle then edge out to make corners with blade vertical. Finish off with pinchers. Have plenty of spare tiles !

Posted

I replaced our toilet last week, much easier than I thought. We have a concrete floor and when I disconnected the old toilet discovered the holes at the sides in the base stand of the toilet were in a different position to the ones in the new toilet.

All there is, is a hole in the floor with a standard blue PVC plumbing pipe just protruding out of the hole. I laid some layers of cement where the toilet is going to be positioned, placed the new toilet over the hole so that the hole at the bottom of the toilet lined up with the hole and pipe in the floor. Then I drilled two new holes in the floor to line up with the holes at the base stand of the toilet and screwed the toilet securely to the floor. Next I filled in the gap around the bottom of the toilet base stand with some cement. Connected everything up and was done. Never had any problems with leaks or smells. Whole job took 30 minutes to complete.

Posted

I've installed more than 60 toilets over the years at my hotels - never used any supplied flange and never had a leak...

I just cut the PVC pipe off with an angle grinder so that it is flush with the floor. Then use wet cement to create your own flange. Make sure that the cement is not too wet, or it will not be strong enough to form a flange.

Then I place the toilet over the flange and cement the toilet to the floor using more cement all around the base.

I also plug the screw fixing holes with more cement, so that no smells can escape.

The advantage of using a DIY cement flange is that if the PVC outlet pipe is too near (or too far) from the wall behind, then you can create an elongated flange to direct the waste from the toilet outlet and into the PVC outlet pipe.

I'm sure all my techniques would be .. er ... poo-pooed by the Association of Registered Sanitary Engineers (A.R.S.E.), but it has worked more me over the last 14 years, and I really don't give a sh*t what others think cheesy.gif

Posted

As it turned out the builder who put in the floor put in the wrong size pipe for my

toilet so even if I had the propper ring it wouldend have worked.

I had no choice but to do it the Thai way.

Thailand-1,Farang-Nil.

But it looks O.k aslong as I don't ever have to change the toilet.

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