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The art of walking in Bangkok: A rant on pave rage


webfact

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Being a pedestrian in Bangkok affords useful insight into the class system that dominates Thai society. In the West pedestrians have sidewalks allocated to them, in some cases, very broad ones, that express the right to accommodation for walkers. In Bangkok, by contrast, sidewalks, where they exist at all, are usually just the scraps of public space that remain after the rich have taken what they want. But that's not a problem for Thai society because pedestrians are justifiably at the bottom of the social hierarchy and so not entitled to anything more. Thanon Rachadamri is an oddity having broad sidewalks that someone must have thought would recall the Champs Elysees or something. They have painted lane lines to separate bicyclists from pedestrians. Naturally, the motocycles don't hesitate to zip right up to snatch the sidewalk for themselves since they have no safe lane for themselves in the streets and are bigger than pedestrians or bicyclists.

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Its tough for those of us who work for a living and have to commute to work. Asok BTS at anytime between 5pm and 8pm is insane. Most countries have a known rule that you walk the same way traffic moves, either on left or right. Thais prefer to walk in the middle and zigzag to make sure they are always in your way. Ran over...

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Its tough for those of us who work for a living and have to commute to work. Asok BTS at anytime between 5pm and 8pm is insane. Most countries have a known rule that you walk the same way traffic moves, either on left or right. Thais prefer to walk in the middle and zigzag to make sure they are always in your way. Ran over...

Thai don't like ANY rule, even walking/driving the same direction is too complicated for them.

In Chinatown there are lines painted on the pavement, vendorstands have to stay behind the lines but none of them does it.

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Its tough for those of us who work for a living and have to commute to work. Asok BTS at anytime between 5pm and 8pm is insane. Most countries have a known rule that you walk the same way traffic moves, either on left or right. Thais prefer to walk in the middle and zigzag to make sure they are always in your way. Ran over...

I don't know what countries have that rule - I would prefer to have the chance to avoid getting hit myself; so walk so I can see the traffic coming at me since a child if no sidewalk - has worked.

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I felt the same when I first started working in Central Bangkok - but then I realized I was following the wrong rules. Bangkok is not London - you need to learn new rules, then life become much easier ....

1. Always slow down to look at street food - even if you already have six bags of food and can't carry any more

2. Decide which floor you really want to be on after arriving at the escalator entrance - make last second adjustments as required

3. Slow to a snails pace when posting on Facebook/Line, then speed up after posting

4. Wai everything with fairy lights on

But seriously - it's a hot, humid city with broken and pot holed sidewalks, open storm drains, child beggars and head impaling obstacles - walking slow makes complete sense. And in the BTS stations - there will be another train in a minute, so running up the stairs is pointless.

And the nicest people in Bangkok are the ones who use the sidewalks. I've found as a general rule; the sweeter the car, the more sour the occupants.

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Having lived and worked in Japan, there is great rivalry between Osaka and Tokyo, so much so that in Tokyo you walk on the right of an escalator, in Osaka the left.

Residing in Tokyo but travelling to Osaka after a couple of visits, it all slips into place, respect is given and normality is adhered to.

On one occasion, in Tokyo I am on the right, going down the steps to the platform, and I am in a bit of a rush, and an obvious Osakan is trying to ascend on his left.

Worlds will collide.

At 120 kg descending, his 60 kg ascending met, great embarrassment from him, and apologies as he picked himself up from the steps.

I do something similar getting on and off elevators in Bangkok.

I am 5'8", 210 lb., martial artist, weightlifter, etc., can be imposing when I choose it. When getting on or off an elevator, I simply stand squarely in front of the door. When it opens I yield to no one. I walk forward and if they don't get out of my way... oh, well, they get bumped. No sweat off me.

I know, it sounds like a jerk thing to do, but it is the only way I have found to get on or off an elevator in Bangkok without getting killed.

Yeap. I've learned to do the same thing. When they realize they're not "boarding" until they make way for me to get off, they usually wake up & step aside, usually with a quick "oh-I-didn't-see-you" look. Just as out on the sidewalks, they don't SEE because they don't LOOK! 'Something my parents had drummed into me by the time I was 5!

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One that happens to me more than it should, and still kind of blows my mind after many years and happening to me many times is that you will be quickly approaching someone ahead of you, there's plenty of space for you to pass on the left or right but with the person ahead of you still 3-10 feet in front, just as you are making your move to pass, they will move abruptly into your path blocking your way. The person has their back to you and it is unlikely they know you are approaching, especially if you are wearing soft soled shoes, but nevertheless the person in front seems to somehow know someone is coming and that they should now get in your way. It happens far too often for it to be just some fluke and there is no other place in the world, no matter how crowded the city, New York, Seoul, San Francisco, London, where it is ever happened to me that people just routinely and very deliberately walk in front of me when they don't even know I'm there. Used to happen to me about once or twice a month over the decade I spent living in Bangkok. Seems almost symbolic of much of what happens in general daily life in Thailand, that people just try and obstruct and stop others from simply getting from point a to point b. And yes I should stop whingeing and just go back to my country.

I thought it was just me, the exact thing happens at least once a week. Its as if they have a radar and know when to block you.

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  • 1 month later...

All funny and oh so true. I am Thai and also have a problem with how they walk towards oncoming foot traffic--especially in office areas. They come in groups and take up more than half the foot path and expect you to move. I don't yield and just walk my way right through the middle of them. They don't care and are pretty selfish, so why should I be any different? :)

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I used to get a chuckle walking in downtown Vancouver years ago. Even on pleasant summer days, most everyone walks with their heads down, staring at their feet, trying to avoid eye contact. There is a reason for it of course as I found out. I moved to the city after getting out of the military. I was used to walking around with my head up, being aware of my surroundings and paying attention to things.

As I walked around downtown I noticed that if, on rare occasions, you did make accidental eye contact with someone, they would normally look away very quickly. The reason being is that they are trying to avoid contact with the various panhandlers and drug dealers roaming the streets. Despite my neat appearance and inspection-ready haircut, people were scared to make eye contact.

The panhandlers and dealers would be looking at peoples faces, trying to spot the shy, nervous ones that might make an easy target. Even if they weren't interested in whatever you were selling maybe they'd give you a few bucks to just get out of their way.

The funny part is, I'd see them doing their thing but when they made eye contact with me I didn't look away. I'd stare right at them then smile when they looked away ! Some may have thought I was a cop (due to the haircut) and others may have realized I wasn't going to be a "soft touch".

Walking around in Thailand is different though. Here I find it's not the people (normally) that are the problem, its the terrain. Crappy sidewalks and various non-pedestrian hazards make it an adventure trying to walk around here (mostly in Pattaya). In addition to trying to be aware of the people around me I have to watch out for crappy sidewalks, food carts, motos, dogs (and of course, dog sh*t), low hanging wires, holes, garbage and a slew of other potential dangers. Then worry about what the other pedestrians are doing.

I'm not much of a "lolly-gagger" when it comes to walking. I prefer to get from Point A to Point B in the quickest, most efficient manner because Point B is where I have something to do. I understand that other people (especially tourists) like to stroll along at a leisurely pace and are prone to stopping in the middle of a busy sidewalk/path/whatever, completely oblivious to everyone else they've just inconvenienced. Most give you the impression that they believe they are the only people in the world and the world revolves around them.

Because I am (normally) aware of my surroundings, my intended route and the various hazards, I can usually dart around the obstacles, even if it means going a wee bit out of my way. The slight zig-zags and detours don't add as much time to my trip as plodding along at the pace of an arthritic snail in an arctic blizzard would so it's not a bother. (I often end up at my destination sweating and breathing heavily.) Good practise is walking from Central Festival along Beach Road to Walking Street (staying on the "city" side of the road, not the "beach" side) ! Walking down South Pattaya Road from TukCom to the # 2 Road intersection can also be fun !

And when all else fails and you have no choice but to do the 2 inch shuffle step for 2-3 minutes until a path clears, then relax and be glad you aren't standing in a -20 degree snowstorm (or even a 5 degree drizzling rain) and remind yourself that in a month from now, you'll still be here enjoying the fine weather while the plodders and lolly-gaggers are back home are stuck shuffling in their miserable weather !

Jack Reacher, is that you?

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All funny and oh so true. I am Thai and also have a problem with how they walk towards oncoming foot traffic--especially in office areas. They come in groups and take up more than half the foot path and expect you to move. I don't yield and just walk my way right through the middle of them. They don't care and are pretty selfish, so why should I be any different? smile.png

Exactly! I do my best, but if I have to run into them, then I do. The reaction? Usually just that blank vacuous look of non-comprehension. Overtook a German guy doing the exact same thing a month or so ago - the when-in-Rome thing I guess - an elderly guy zig-zagging down the pavement gawking at every shop window and vendor and generally looking everywhere except where he was going. I finally just had to shove by. He didn't like it so much. Too bad.

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