overherebc Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 If you decide to change from injection to carb system what other changes do you need to do? eg distributor etc. Yes, I know the mpg will change, don't care, when the fuel gets low fill it back up etc. Yes, I know twin 40 webers need to be balanced all the time, don't care. Only interested in knowing what other basic changes need to be made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAS21 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Out of interest I just googled ...it came up with a good informative piece on yahoo site... seems quite a few things to change ... enjoy your 40dcoe or whatever ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overherebc Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 I've googled it myself but mostly it's all about why not to do it even when the OP's state they don't care about performance, economy etc. If my engine drops from 185 bhp to 160 bhp and fuel consumption goes up 20% I don't care. I know the fuel pump on the car injection runs at 2.8bar and webers run at 3 to 5 psi etc so I have to change that etc etc. I just want to know of any major mechanical parts that would require attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAS21 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 2 hours ago, overherebc said: I've googled it myself but mostly it's all about why not to do it even when the OP's state they don't care about performance, economy etc. If my engine drops from 185 bhp to 160 bhp and fuel consumption goes up 20% I don't care. I know the fuel pump on the car injection runs at 2.8bar and webers run at 3 to 5 psi etc so I have to change that etc etc. I just want to know of any major mechanical parts that would require attention. Did you see this one ... https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20060816171509AAI9kWE actually the one that I found earlier was more detailed .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overherebc Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 The engine in question doesn't have an EFI system and is more like a diesel mechanical system so no computers that are going to have a hissy fit when it's removed. I just wondered if anyone had experience of doing it in Thailand and any problems that they might have had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm jeff Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 What engine / applcation is it. Many people change , with a custom manifold , to motorbike carbs. If all set up correctly , nothing much needs changing that you wouldnt change / modify when tuning an FI engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anythingleft? Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Interested to know what engine - model you have, that may help any advice offered to be more relevant to your needs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overherebc Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 Early eighties engine 280 SE saloon. Obviously 2.8 straight six. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Intake manifold (perhaps an earlier engine came with a carb), carb(s), low pressure fuel pump (you can buy electric)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary A Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 The question is? Why would you want to give up more power, fuel economy and easy starting? Going from a carburetor to fuel injection seems much more logical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaseTheBass Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Similarly, can someone help me to change my disc brakes to drums and my oil/gas filled shocks to friction plate dampers. I might be looking to get some of those natty headlamps with the candles in them at some point soon, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overherebc Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 6 minutes ago, Gary A said: The question is? Why would you want to give up more power, fuel economy and easy starting? Going from a carburetor to fuel injection seems much more logical. Like this one.Doc1.docx 7 minutes ago, Gary A said: The question is? Why would you want to give up more power, fuel economy and easy starting? Going from a carburetor to fuel injection seems much more logical. What you say is true but I just want to do it. I enjoy working on things, cars in particular and really don't mind the effort involved in playing with carbs, suppose I got the bug from 3 big SU's on the old E I had a good few years ago. The car is not for everyday driving, the old pick up and wife's car cover that. All I can do with the injection system is look at it and clean the outside of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdgbb Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 (edited) 8 hours ago, Gary A said: The question is? Why would you want to give up more power, fuel economy and easy starting? Going from a carburetor to fuel injection seems much more logical. "The question is?" You want to know what the question is even after reading the OP? Here it is again... "If you decide to change from injection to carb system what other changes do you need to do? eg distributor etc. Yes, I know the mpg will change, don't care, when the fuel gets low fill it back up etc. Yes, I know twin 40 webers need to be balanced all the time, don't care. Only interested in knowing what other basic changes need to be made." Edited September 8, 2016 by gdgbb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overherebc Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 1 hour ago, gdgbb said: "The question is?" You want to know what the question is even after reading the OP? Here it is again... "If you decide to change from injection to carb system what other changes do you need to do? eg distributor etc. Yes, I know the mpg will change, don't care, when the fuel gets low fill it back up etc. Yes, I know twin 40 webers need to be balanced all the time, don't care. Only interested in knowing what other basic changes need to be made." Thanks. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrahmm Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 12 hours ago, overherebc said: Like this one.Doc1.docx What you say is true but I just want to do it. I enjoy working on things, cars in particular and really don't mind the effort involved in playing with carbs, suppose I got the bug from 3 big SU's on the old E I had a good few years ago. The car is not for everyday driving, the old pick up and wife's car cover that. All I can do with the injection system is look at it and clean the outside of it. Anyone remember vapor lock at high temps? ....And what solved it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm jeff Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Vapor lock. One can insulate the carbs , fuel lines , inlet manifold. Use heat wrap on exhaust / maniflod. Plenty of room under that bonnet / hood for air flow. Rolling road needed for sure , and a very good carb man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overherebc Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 (edited) 39 minutes ago, ktm jeff said: Vapor lock. One can insulate the carbs , fuel lines , inlet manifold. Use heat wrap on exhaust / maniflod. Plenty of room under that bonnet / hood for air flow. Rolling road needed for sure , and a very good carb man. The engine is a twin cam' cross flow head so there is no heat input from the exhaust manifold. One of the main problems with weber is making sure that vibration is as limited as possible otherwise you get fuel frothing in the carb chambers but you can get special fibre inserts and cushion gaskets to solve that. In addition I have access to a work shop that can shape a stainless shield to keep as much block heat away as is possible. Had a good phone conversation with a carb specialist in UK yesterday and it seems that no real changes are needed as the original injection is mechanical so no electronic or computer controls exist. As you say a rolling road and a good carb man are important so that will be the next quest before I decide 100% Edited September 8, 2016 by overherebc adding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm jeff Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Your going about your research the right way. Make sure its possible before commiting. The Weber / Dellorto carbs are longer , so more suseptible to vibrations. The cushion gaskets have o-rings in them. Bike carbs are shorter. If going this route , dont over carb it. Bike engines will rev 3 times higher than the 280 unit. Keeping the exhaust heat away from the inlet is important on any engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overherebc Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 7 hours ago, ktm jeff said: Your going about your research the right way. Make sure its possible before commiting. The Weber / Dellorto carbs are longer , so more suseptible to vibrations. The cushion gaskets have o-rings in them. Bike carbs are shorter. If going this route , dont over carb it. Bike engines will rev 3 times higher than the 280 unit. Keeping the exhaust heat away from the inlet is important on any engine. Looking at Mikuni as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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