Fitting a photobeam to my existing gate

[Chuckles78]

I need some advice. I have a existing gate and i bought a photobeam I want to have hooked up.

 

The circuit board seems to have the option but my electrician can't do it.

 

Can someone please help out from the pictures?

[Chuckles78]

In my thoughts, the connections from the photobeam sensor...

 

+ - are obvious

COM - goes to one of the NC connectors

NC - goes to other NC connector

NO - ?? Not sure of this one

 

 

[Crossy]

Get power from the power output terminals on the controller.

 

You would leave NO (normally open) disconnected. COM and NC go to the "photobeam" terminals on the controller (polarity doesn't matter).

 

You may need to tell the controller it has a photobeam, if you can post an image of the identifying marks of the controller PCB we may be able to locate a manual.

 

 

[Chuckles78]

Thanks Crossy.

 

A manual would really be handy as I'd like to configure some of the other options. 

 

This is the same board I have...

[Crossy]

OK, looks like this is your controller http://www.gaincom.com.my/details.asp?prod_id=4189&catid=&category=&subcat=&keyword=&page=1

 

I see there's a Photobeam yes/no link to configure. Hook it up as suggested earlier and move the link to "yes" :)

 

Looking for a manual.

 

EDIT In reality you probably don't need a manual as it's not a highly programmable beast, just set the links appropriately and you're in business. You could try emailing the chaps in KL.

[Crossy]

This is for a G-10H which doesn't have the photobeam configuration link, the beam connector is linked out when no beam installed (bet that's what the configuration link does anyway).

 

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Sliding-Gate-Controller-G-10_110562088.html

 

G-10 Sliding Gate Controller

 

Operating instructions

With a push and release of a push button or RF transmitter, the gate slides open. It will continue to move until it reaches the open limit position and the stops. The next press will make the gate move in closing direction. Upon reaching the close limit position, it stops again. If the gate is moving and a pushbutton is pressed, the gate will stop. Another press later will set the gate traveling in the reverse direction.

 

A dynamic force sensing device is built in to prevent crushing. Control point for safety device using photo beam is also provided. For owner’s convenience, an open LED indicator can be used at push button location to show if gate is opened. The motor on timer is internally set for 90 seconds maximum continuous running duration; once exceeded; it is cut off automatically to prevent overheating.

 

Function Description

• Dynamic force sensing
  • VR1 – Closing dynamic force adjustment. Gate opens is the force is exceeded.
  • VR2 – Closing dynamic force adjustment. Gate stops if the force is exceeded.
• Safety photo beam control
  • 1, 2 – Control point (normally closed) from beam sensing device.
    • If the beam is cut when the gate is stationary, the gate cannot be triggered.
    • At anytime during closing, the gate stops and opens if the beam is cut.
    • During the initial 3 seconds of opening, the gate continues to open.
• Limit switch
  • 3, 4, 5 – Terminal 3 is open limit control, 4 is common point and 5 for close limit. Limit switch mode, NC or NO type, is selectable by jumper P1.
• Outdoor push button
  • 6, 7 – This push button (N.O.) has 3 useful applications:
    • To stop gate in case of danger (for fast emergency response).
    • To start closing while walking out (for pedestrian going out).
    • It can trigger lighting only for 1 minute if the gate is shut ( for convenience).
• Indoor push button
  • 8, 9 – These 2 points are connected to N.O. push button and receiver’s output control.
• Automatic lighting
  • 20 – This is a 230VAC ‘LIVE’ output point for pillar lighting control. The automatic lighting is operated I delay mode, that is, the lighting will be off 1 minute after the gate has closed shut and is always on whenever the gate is opened partially or fully. To prevent lighting during day time, a photo sensor is connected to point P2.
• Gate open indicator
  • 8, 9 – A small lamp assembled module is connecting to these points which are also the push button control terminals. Whenever gate is opened, the LED will blink and it goes off if the gate is shut.
• RF remote control
  • 12, 13 – 12 VDC power supply for the RF receiver.
  • 11 – Trigger point used by 3-wires/transistor output type of receiver.
  • 14, 15 – 24VAC power supply for the RF receiver.
  • 9, 10 – Connect to relay contact points (COM & N.O.)
• Induction motor (AC)
  • 17, 18, 19 – Connect to induction motor (1 HP max) with 3 terminal wires.
  • 17, 18 – Connect to AC capacitor.

[Chuckles78]

Awesome thanks Crossy! I'm gonna give the photobeam a go myself.

 

I would like to understand the limit switch more and and force adjusting inc auto reverse. I played with the force adjustments today but my gate wouldnt open or close  all the way anymore.

[Crossy]

Note I think VR2 should read  " VR2 – Opening dynamic force adjustment. Gate stops if the force is exceeded. " makes more sense.

 

If I'm reading correctly if the gate is closing and is blocked it will reverse and open, if it is opening and gets blocked it will stop. The force pots should be set so that the gate reliably opens and closes plus a tad. Test with something expendable, I would not use a body part just in case.

 

Limit switches are not rocket science, they are simply switches which open (or close) when activated by the gate reaching one end or other of its travel. The link "limit switch NC/NO" defines whether you have switches that open or close when activated. The switch can either be a micro-switch or magnetic reed type.

 

 

[wayned]

1 hour ago, Crossy said:

I would not use a body part just in case.

Somebody elses body part might do just fine! 

[Chuckles78]

5 hours ago, Crossy said:

Note I think VR2 should read  " VR2 – Opening dynamic force adjustment. Gate stops if the force is exceeded. " makes more sense.

 

If I'm reading correctly if the gate is closing and is blocked it will reverse and open, if it is opening and gets blocked it will stop. The force pots should be set so that the gate reliably opens and closes plus a tad. Test with something expendable, I would not use a body part just in case.

 

Limit switches are not rocket science, they are simply switches which open (or close) when activated by the gate reaching one end or other of its travel. The link "limit switch NC/NO" defines whether you have switches that open or close when activated. The switch can either be a micro-switch or magnetic reed type.

 

 

 

There appears to be a magnet on the bottom of the gate which lines up with the motor when fully opened. I'm guessing this is the sensor switch so it knows when to stop.

 

I'll try adjusting VR1 and VR2 again too. I got an annoying neighbour, maybe they will help with the testing.   

 

Thanks!

 

 

[Crossy]

1 minute ago, Chuckles78 said:

I'll try adjusting VR1 and VR2 again too. I got an annoying neighbour, maybe they will help with the testing.   

 

Crush force of a human skull is about 235kg.

 

The magnet operates a reed switch (there are likely two magnets and two reeds) to tell the controller when the gate is fully open and when it's fully closed. The reeds will be in small boxes with two wires going back to the limit switch connector on the controller. If the gate is working normally no need to muck with them.

 

[Chuckles78]

6 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Crush force of a human skull is about 235kg.

 

The magnet operates a reed switch (there are likely two magnets and two reeds) to tell the controller when the gate is fully open and when it's fully closed. The reeds will be in small boxes with two wires going back to the limit switch connector on the controller. If the gate is working normally no need to muck with them.

 

 

Was just kidding about the neighbours  

 

Ok looks like my Limit switch is set to NO. And I got a shot of what looks like the magnet.

[Chuckles78]

I've run into a little hitch fitting my sensors. On one side of the gate I will probably need to take power from a nearby light running at 230V. Since the beam only takes 24V or 12V I'm looking for a small step down transformer that can be neatly concealed in a little box.

 

Can anyone make any recommendations. It only needs 25mA and most of the transformers I find online provide a lot more. I'm looking for a enclosed, waterproof ip66 transformer.

 

Would any of these be suitable?:

http://www.tortech.com.au/category/outdoor-garden-lighting-transformer-12vac-24vac

 

http://www.exteriorlightsuk.co.uk/product/Exterior-12v-transformer-10w-IP44

 

[bankruatsteve]

You can't just use a battery?  

[Wirejerker]

Tranny won't work unless the light is on.

Cut a slot across the driveway 15-20 mm deep lay two singles <\= 0.5 mm then fill with epoxy. It's only 24 volts so perfect..

Failing that get another PE where u put them side by side and a catseye reflector on the other post.

[Allstars]

1 hour ago, Chuckles78 said:

I've run into a little hitch fitting my sensors. On one side of the gate I will probably need to take power from a nearby light running at 230V. Since the beam only takes 24V or 12V I'm looking for a small step down transformer that can be neatly concealed in a little box.

 

Can anyone make any recommendations. It only needs 25mA and most of the transformers I find online provide a lot more. I'm looking for a enclosed, waterproof ip66 transformer.

 

Would any of these be suitable?:

http://www.tortech.com.au/category/outdoor-garden-lighting-transformer-12vac-24vac

 

http://www.exteriorlightsuk.co.uk/product/Exterior-12v-transformer-10w-IP44

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2057872.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xstep+down+220+>+24V.TRS0&_nkw=step+down+220+>+24V&_sacat=0

 

And they cost rather 60 Baht isnstead of $60

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC-220V-to-3-3V-5V-9V-12V-24V-Isolated-Power-Supply-Switch-Step-Down-Module-/401098725952?var=&hash=item5d6358da40:m:mALbPr4skO1h8s1-D6kV-zQ