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Screw Heads Breaking Off


chiangrai

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 was driving screws into wood the other day and the heads kept breaking off.

I was using self drilling brass coloured screws which I think are for metal.

I was using them with a Makita impact driver.I have been using this

combination for years with no problems.

 

The head would break off when the screw was "home" if I didn't stop immediately

where as before they wouldn't.

 

What could have happened.What screws are best to use in Thailand.I started

using these screws when I found that  the ordinary stainless steel ones were stripping.

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they are breaking because they are rubbish, (was going to say they are sh1t material but that would be impolite) if you can't obtain better quality,  you will have to pilot drill each hole before staring

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8 minutes ago, Artisi said:

f you can't obtain better quality,  you will have to pilot drill each hole before staring

I never managed to get a screw in a hard teak wood without pilot drill.

This wood is so damned hard.

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You can pretty much look at a screw to determine the quality.  If the head is flat it will rip off easily.  The Y heads are stronger but need counter sink to get flush.  Dull color is usually indicates crap.

 

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I hope I'm describing the type of screws properly.

I don't know what they're called in English,the Thais call them "screws to be used with metal" .They use them when working with box metal.They are brass colored with Y heads.They are not conical like wood screws.

 

Are these better.Do even these come in good and bad quality.

 

 

 

 

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Use Hex head screws l find them stronger but pre-drilling is still the way sometimes to penetrate some hardwoods.

There are different quality screws knocking about.

Edited by Kwasaki
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53 minutes ago, chiangrai said:

I was drilling a pilot hole first.It would be actually smokind when I pulled it out.

 

Are there good screws available in Thailand.Or what kind are the least bad.

Drill slowly and keep clearing the chips/ dust every couple of seconds. 

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you are using the wrong screw all together sorry.

 

self tappers are not for wood, they are for metal and have an equal shaft width.

 

wood screws taper and are designed to pull through wood. self tappers will never pull throu wood

 

as well as a pilot hole, which is very necessary, I always pull the screw through candle wax first; if there are no buddha candles in your house then dip it in washing up liquid...they should glide in.

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Check that you are not over torquing the screws.  That's what it sounds like to me. If your drill has adjustable torque setting lower it.  Secondly brass is softer than stainless steel.  Suggest you switch to stainless unless you are looking for the decorative look.  But make sure you buy stainless not a lower steel.  Another approach is drive the screw to almost the end then use a manual screw driver to finish it.

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4 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Have you ever tried behind the ear?

Is that washing behind the ears? 

Could also try ear wax, works well on a  handle-bar moustache, so I'm lead to believe. 

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I startled using the self tapping screws for metal when all

the stainless steel wood screws were shearing inside the phllips head.

I changed because the screws were made of better metal not because they were better suited to wood.

 

Ideally I would use wood screws made of the better "brass like" material but I haven't seen them for sale.

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3 minutes ago, chiangrai said:

I startled using the self tapping screws for metal when all

the stainless steel wood screws were shearing inside the phllips head.

I changed because the screws were made of better metal not because they were better suited to wood.

 

Ideally I would use wood screws made of the better "brass like" material but I haven't seen them for sale.

I admit I don't know what screws are made of, but wood screws are normally not "brass" in my experience.

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6 minutes ago, chiangrai said:

I startled using the self tapping screws for metal when all

the stainless steel wood screws were shearing inside the phllips head.

I changed because the screws were made of better metal not because they were better suited to wood.

 

Ideally I would use wood screws made of the better "brass like" material but I haven't seen them for sale.

Buy stainless steel woods screws, pilot drill to the appropriate size and wax. 

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I mean "brass like" or "brass coloured".The self drilling screws for metal are made of tougher material than the wood screws

thats why they don't shear inside the Phillips head.

 

I'm not talking about screws that are literaly made from brass.

 

This waxing or bar soaping sounds good.

 

As for tork.It's an impact driver not a drill that I'm using.It has adustable settings,would thet be for tork.

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45 minutes ago, chiangrai said:

I startled using the self tapping screws for metal when all

the stainless steel wood screws were shearing inside the phllips head.

I changed because the screws were made of better metal not because they were better suited to wood.

 

Ideally I would use wood screws made of the better "brass like" material but I haven't seen them for sale.

They sound like just Cadmium Plated ones you are using....underneath is just a crappy mild steel.

They will rust out after a few years if outside in the weather.  As posted above, I agree, drill a pilot hole and turn the torque down on the drill...another alternative , is to do the last couple of turns on the screw with a handheld screwdriver....The Torque is way too high by the sounds of it. Try to get a drill bit thats only slightly smaller than the measurement of the outside of the threads, not the body, it will hold all you want.

Edited by weegee
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5 hours ago, chiangrai said:

I was using self drilling brass coloured screws which I think are for metal.

I was using them with a Makita impact driver.I have been using this

combination for years with no problems.

 

The head would break off when the screw was "home" if I didn't stop immediately

where as before they wouldn't.

Wrong screws; you don't buy the right ones in Tesco's either. There's some rubbish even in HomePro but if this is your only choice, I think their newer 'FITT' branded, pre-packaged stuff is better than the dross they carried before. Otherwise, shop at Thai Watsadu or even a mom and pop hardware shop.

 

The clutch on the driver is either set too high or, it is jammed on the highest setting. Sometimes happens when stuff has been used 'for years.'

 

One could always stop when its almost driven 'home' and then tighten by hand.

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It's an impact driver I'm using so there is no clutch,there is an adjustment that can be made it seems like a gear adjustment but it could be tork.

 

When I'm down to the last bit left it is way too tight to tighten it by hand.

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They are cadmium plated self drilling roofing screws.  They only have to be good/strong enough not to break before the thin roofing sheeting gives way and no longer "bites" Very similar to stripping threads except technically the roofing material is not threaded, just inside the threads.

 

They are not designed to be used in wood.  Too much torque will break them!

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7 minutes ago, chiangrai said:

so are stainless steel wood screws better

They should be, however for some of the hardwood found here you will still need a pilot drill first. 

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1 hour ago, chiangrai said:

It's an impact driver I'm using so there is no clutch,there is an adjustment that can be made it seems like a gear adjustment but it could be tork.

 

When I'm down to the last bit left it is way too tight to tighten it by hand.

Sounds like the pilot hole is a little too small.

Screw heads will often break off if the screw gets too hot. Screw will get too hot if the pilot hole is too narrow or not deep enough.

 

Also - if you can find Hafele screws (often in Home Pro and Homeworks) they are much better than other brands here (IMHO).

Edited by chickenslegs
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