Swimming pool

[tattoodrob]

Very nice place,what was your total cost if you dont mind me asking?

[David006]

That is an extremely large pool. I would assume you own a hotel or a resort. if you a re adding algaecide to a pool that size every two weeks, then clearly there is a problem that could be rectified by some automated water hygiene system. The ROI on the equipment, particulrly as you are running a business, will will be very quick as algaecide costs a forutune if you buy it packaged as a pool product.

No, it's not hotel or resort... just my private home !!!

I put some algaecide for security... my UV system works very very well... so, normaly I don't need such product... but the cost of this product is not high...

Answer for David 006

Go on my website regarding the history of my house... you will see how I build my pool... http://muanglen.online.fr

Regarding the concrete, I order the same concret as the one they used for the landing runway of the airport in Chiang Mai... and after that, I put plaster with cement and SIKA..

Merci bien: Nice place..took a while hugh..where are you?... in the middle of rice field..seems you have a 'copter or for access..

enjoy

rgds

david

And don't forget that you have to make the baement/floor 1st...and after all the wall around IN ONE TIME !!!.. If your pool is big, you will need maybe 20 or 30 workers...

Phil'

[waterman2000]

There are many incorrect assumptions about swimming pools & the filtration thereof. I will try to shed some light on the subject.

Filters.

The purpose of a pool filter is to PRIMARILY prevent the dead bodies of bacteria from re-entering the pool. These dead bodies act as food for other living bacteria.

The SECONDARY purpose is to remove other solids from the pool.

Many people opt for the common 'spherical' shaped sand filters as they are cheap & readily available. They have 2 inherent problems;

1. Because of their shape, 'bio scum' builds up at the 'equator' of the filter. This scum can help to cause bacteria to flourish if the pool is not disinfected correctly. As a result, ear, eye & mouth infections can become prevalent. The 'bio scum' can only be removed by stripping the filter, cleaning out the scum & replacing the old sand with new sand. With this type of filter, this procedure is recommended annually.

2. Again because of their shape, the full volume of sand is not used for filtration. They are inefficient.

Don't forget to 'backwash' your filter for at least 5 minutes EVERY DAY.

The better style of filter is one of a cylindrical shape. It is long & thin so the water has to pass through a longer distance of sand, thus better filtering. Bio scum will not easily form in these filters due to the filter shape. These filters are very efficient but more expensive.

Filter Media.

Cartridge filter media is good but restricts the water flow as the filter becomes more clogged. This restricted water flow will have a detrimental affect on the rate of pool disinfection. So, cartridge filters need to be constantly cleaned, at least every 72 hours of operation.

Sand is also a good filter medium as it has a two-fold action...as well as restricting solids etc, the sharp edges on the sand help to kill certain bacteria that chemical disinfectants have no affect upon.

But be careful...normal silica sand is not very good at doing this. The only sand that has a proven 'kill' factor is Quartz sand...very long & very sharp edges.

Disinfection.

Chlorine is widely used but least understood. Whether you add the chlorine to your pool by hand or whether it is ionised into solution by electrolysis & Salt, makes no difference.

What must be understood is this;

1. The ability for chlorine to disinfect (kill) in water, drastically decreases when the water temperature approaches & exceeds 28 degrees Celsius. Therefore, monitor your pool water temperature...especially if you live in Thailand.

2. Chlorine is an ineffective disinfectant in solutions that have a pH of greater than 8.0.

3. 'Free chlorine' is the measure of the available chlorine that can actively disinfect. The minimum level for a domestic pool should be about 2.0 ppm (parts per million) & the maximum should not exceed 5.0 ppm. Skin, eye & mucous membrane irritations can ocur at levels as low as 3.0 ppm.

4. If your pool has the correct pH, water temperature & free chlorine levels, you SHOULD NOT be able to smell any chlorine. If you can smell chlorine, in actual fact, you are not smelling chlorine. What you are smelling is Chloramines, which is the result of Free chlorine reacting with ammonia that is excuded by humans. Chloramines have absolutely no disinfection power whatsoever. If you smell chlorine, it's time to get out of your pool & test the water again.

Pumps

As an absolute minimum requirement, your pump should be sized so that it is capable of pumping the complete volume of pool water in no more than 2 hours. The bigger pump, the better. The less the 'turn around' time, the better the disinfection rate will be. The pump should be running at least 12 out of every every 24 hours.

Testing.

Test the pool water after;

1. There have been strong winds.

2. There has been rain.

3. There have been a large number of people in the pool. Generally, a pool needs at least 8 hours to recover from any of these things.

In addition, a 'Bromine Bank' is advised if using a chlorinated pool. Bromine has good 'kill' power & lasts longer than chlorine. Basically, it picks up where chlorine leaves off. Further, a Carbon Dioxide injection system will easily & automatically control the pH so that the Chlorine/Bromine disinfection can work to the highest efficiency. An expensive system to initially install but does save on elbow grease.

The use of Ozone is not desirable due to the corrosiveness of such a system.

UV filtering needs to be VERY carefully designed for the individual installation as the type of UV globes used are very important. Also, filtration is VERY important with a UV disinfection process. In any case, a Bromine Bank is always prescribed with the use of a UV disinfection system.

If you are concerned with the health of your pool users, these guidelines are helpful.

This is some of the worst, so far off the mark it's not funny advice I've ever heard.

[Gold2005]

I would look at www.thailandswimmingpools.com very nice web site and they were extremely helpful to me. I think they only cover the main areas of Pattaya, Bangkok, Hua Hin, Chiang Mai and Phuket but worth asking. Ask them for a rough guide price and I am sure they will let you know. Alot depends on the system you put in and who builds it. From my experience pools are not something best done by amateur builders. Use a pool company who know what they are doing. hoep it helps.

<font color='#000000'>I want too make a swimming pool by my house,with filter and pump ,water treatment etc. etc.(10mx5mx1,5m)Somebody knowe,s what it will cost?,or a website in thailand where i can find this.</font>

[Gold2005]

Nice pool sir !

That is an extremely large pool. I would assume you own a hotel or a resort. if you a re adding algaecide to a pool that size every two weeks, then clearly there is a problem that could be rectified by some automated water hygiene system. The ROI on the equipment, particulrly as you are running a business, will will be very quick as algaecide costs a forutune if you buy it packaged as a pool product.

No, it's not hotel or resort... just my private home !!!

I put some algaecide for security... my UV system works very very well... so, normaly I don't need such product... but the cost of this product is not high...

Answer for David 006

Go on my website regarding the history of my house... you will see how I build my pool... http://muanglen.online.fr

Regarding the concrete, I order the same concret as the one they used for the landing runway of the airport in Chiang Mai... and after that, I put plaster with cement and SIKA..

Merci bien: Nice place..took a while hugh..where are you?... in the middle of rice field..seems you have a 'copter or for access..

enjoy

rgds

david

And don't forget that you have to make the baement/floor 1st...and after all the wall around IN ONE TIME !!!.. If your pool is big, you will need maybe 20 or 30 workers...

Phil'

[sleepyjohn]

Somewhere in this thread somebody has recommended "any old cheap tiles will do" or something like that.

That is emphatically not the case.

You need fully impervious high glaze tiles. Cheap ones are low glaze from a continual process machine. The surface is not so "glassy".

This means that after time they will get the surface coated, just as with cheaply tiled bathrooms, with a sort of dirty scale which is not removable.

cheers John

[sleepyjohn]

I'd like some comments please......

I happen to know the cost of the stripping old tiles, channelling, high quality retiling, grating, and replacement of all machinery/filtration/piping/tanking of a (newly) overflow saltwater pool about 17m x 8m and 1.25m deep was 550,000bt recently.

It seems to me the only thing left is the foundation and concrete structure.

I read that concrete is only about 300bt/m3. Is that so it seems very cheap? Does it need ot be a special grade? Additives? Otherwise it seems that the concrete would be a very low cost a few tens of thousands. This would mean for the total a very generously sized pool like this would come way within a million baht wouldn't it?

In that case would someone like to roughly lay out the steps and costs in the basic foundation/concrete/steel structure please?

cheers John

[adamskisamui]

Hi

Looking to do a DIY build for a 11 X 4 M rectangular infinity edge pool on Koh Samui. Have been quoted some crazy prices by local contactors.

Contacted SiamConsulting for there DIY kit but they don not supply for Koh Samui also there turnkey option is very expensive.

My question is does anyone know where i can get engineering/design plans for the pool i.e. piping plans and drain and bull eye positions.

Also does anyone have a contact for a consultant in Koh Samui

Thanks

[Datsun240Z]

At what dept the groundwater comes kicking in, when you start digging?

Have you guys seen this? That's insane!

http://bored-bored.com/weird/the-largest-s...-pool-on-earth/

[Valentine]

I'd like some comments please......

I happen to know the cost of the stripping old tiles, channelling, high quality retiling, grating, and replacement of all machinery/filtration/piping/tanking of a (newly) overflow saltwater pool about 17m x 8m and 1.25m deep was 550,000bt recently.

It seems to me the only thing left is the foundation and concrete structure.

I read that concrete is only about 300bt/m3. Is that so it seems very cheap? Does it need ot be a special grade? Additives? Otherwise it seems that the concrete would be a very low cost a few tens of thousands. This would mean for the total a very generously sized pool like this would come way within a million baht wouldn't it?

In that case would someone like to roughly lay out the steps and costs in the basic foundation/concrete/steel structure please?

cheers John

In Phuket ST-240 waterproof concrete costs a little under Baht 2,000/m3 which is what should be used for pools. There is also a marine grade concrete which supposedly should be used when building a pool in close proximity to the beach.

After digging the hole & laying down 12mm 'D' bar steel, sometime two layers, install the waterstop before pouring concrete for the floor at a thickness of 20cm. Waterstop comes in a couple of different forms with the most common being rubber waterstop at 6" or 8". After that form up the walls & pour again. When the concrete has sufficiently cured render the structure before applying a waterproof membrane after which the tiles can be layed. Ensure a vibrator is used while poring concrete.

Depending on location of the pool, in original land, groundwater level, slope, there can be some variations in the structure such as the use of extra footings, beams, piles.

Many developers & homeowners make the mistake of using their house builder to do the pool & occasionally come unstuck as many builders do not take into consideration all the waterproofing features need during a pool construction. The end result can be lifting of tiles or ugly white calcification coming through the grouting which is impossible to stop & usually means stripping the pool back to the bare concrete. An expensive process which negates by a huge degree any savings made using the house builder. I have seen this on quite a few hign end projects which have used the hand made silver/black tiles which cost around Baht 2,000/m2.

[BlackJack]

I am in Pattaya looking after a friends house and then Emaux 1 hp pump seized

I went to 3 shops and no one had them

all offered other brands

I searched the forum for a long time too

I dont know what brand is better

does anyone know of a good low cost 1 HP to replace the pump

thanks

[antony77]

where can I buy resin and fibreglass in Hua Hin in large quantities also where in Bangkok

[Big Gary]

I have a 4mtrx4mtrx1mtr above ground pool which leaks. It is a tiled pool and leaks out about 10 cm a week. I had it drained and re grouted but still leaks.

Is there a product like a sealer that can be painted on over the tiles and joints to stop water getting through the grout? I live in Chiangrai.

[Valentine]

I have a 4mtrx4mtrx1mtr above ground pool which leaks. It is a tiled pool and leaks out about 10 cm a week. I had it drained and re grouted but still leaks.

Is there a product like a sealer that can be painted on over the tiles and joints to stop water getting through the grout? I live in Chiangrai.

I assume as it is above ground you can see all the piping & know there is no leaking there. Are you able to see any wet spots on the outside of the pool? There are grout sealers but unsure if they will work in a pool considering all the chemical reactions. Was a waterproof membrane applied prior to setting the tiles?

[generealty]

My company has built many swimming pools over the 15 years we have been in Thailand. i have built many for expats and also been called in to rectify other builders mistakes. If you are going to go by the price then cheap thai builders will win the jobs every time. however i can leave you my contact details so that you can call us in after a year or so to rectify it at a big cost to yourself. As with anything, cheap means cheap. you get what you pay for, whether its electrical item, construction, cars etc.

If you use any builder-always check daily-always check they do pilings so pool wont move-always check size of steel used-always check depth of concrete-always check that they use correct concrete mixture-always check they use waterproofing agent with concrete-always check they use vibration machine to allow concrete to move and settle without air pockets which later allow water to seep out-always check they put a rubber seal around whole of swimming pool where bottom converges with side walls-always'check they use the correct size diameter drainage piping for pump circulation - always check vacinity of pump and pump house to get maximum power for circulation and filterage. These are only a few items the customer should be aware of. it might seem over the top, but any builder working on a tight budget after some customer has knocked him down to 'Rock bottom'will try and cut corners. Believe me, after being in this game for so long-it is so difficult and so expensive to repair without garauntees at a later stage- i ask myself, why would anyone want to try save a buck only to pay out more later. Tred carefully and good luck

[warrior64]

Hallo Thai Community,

we want to build a Pool(ca 11x5x1,5mtr) in Buached,Surin(Isaan)

We think about a concrete pool,also a fibre pool is very interesting.

Do you know me constructors in our area??

I have already some offers from bangkok and Udon Thani,all around between 825000 and 1000000Baht.Thank you for your informations.

regards from Stuttgart

[padsist4]

i considered an inground pool but as we need to return to the uk for several months a year and i did not want to come home to dead buffalows/snakes/and black gunge,so i bought a canvas above ground pool from a dealer in bkk and had it sent upto udornthani.

this cost 300 uk pounds including pump,filter,cover,ladder and chemicals infact everything i needed to get started.

it takes about 30 minutes to erect and 18 hours to fill. 180 baht from the water meter.

it is a round pool its 15 feet accross and great to swimm in.

when we leave it takes 2 hrs to empty and 2 hours to clean dry and put away.

have a look on the internet there are plenty to look at.

i hope this is of help.

edd

WHERE IN BANGKOK DID YOU GET THE POOL FROM [email protected]

[Theo2010]

I've put some photos on my website demonstrating how its done. Its not as hard as you think. Check out http://thaibies.com/swimmingpools/

Its my next big project when I have the time. Will probably raise the level of the land for the pool when I'm back in a couple of weeks, and let it settle. A couple of friends have built pool's, and really its not difficult. I will build a cover over mine; keep the heat off it (and me!).

I would hate to see any of farang buddies being ripped off for a pool, when you can do it yourself for next to nothing, what with having all that free time in LOS to manage a project such as this :laugh:

The plumbing/pipework needs come careful consideration. I put something up on my site when I get time.

MaiChai,

I checked your website, but it wasn't online anymore. I'd love to see those pictures.

I'm thinking about building a pool myself. And thereby would like to do it myself as much as possible. I simply know best what I want and how I want it to be performed. And my Thai is insufficient. I read your messages in this thread and have some idea of how it would be done. In a nutshell: Dig a hole, lay a meshed grid, and cast the concrete.

But I am wondering what your view is on how to cast the concrete.

One way is (most expensive) to hire truck with a pump and cast the concrete in pre-installed wooden mold or box. This way all can be done (floordeck and walls) in a single cast, without the risk of appartures/cracks between multiple casts.

But this truck with pump will cost a great deal. And I have the feeling you think this will not be necessary. but then I think this will not be possible in a single cast, even with the help of the in-law-family. Simply because it probably cannot be done in one day, or even before the firstly applied concrete is hardened. Making it vunerable to cracks and water leaking.

I have a feeling you have a solution for this or I see a problem where there is none. Maybe I don't even need a wooden mold.

I would love to hear your opinion on this.

[Theo2010]

I've put some photos on my website demonstrating how its done. Its not as hard as you think. Check out http://thaibies.com/swimmingpools/

Its my next big project when I have the time. Will probably raise the level of the land for the pool when I'm back in a couple of weeks, and let it settle. A couple of friends have built pool's, and really its not difficult. I will build a cover over mine; keep the heat off it (and me!).

I would hate to see any of farang buddies being ripped off for a pool, when you can do it yourself for next to nothing, what with having all that free time in LOS to manage a project such as this :laugh:

The plumbing/pipework needs come careful consideration. I put something up on my site when I get time.

MaiChai,

I checked your website, but it wasn't online anymore. I'd love to see those pictures.

I'm thinking about building a pool myself. And thereby would like to do it myself as much as possible. I simply know best what I want and how I want it to be performed. And my Thai is insufficient. I read your messages in this thread and have some idea of how it would be done. In a nutshell: Dig a hole, lay a meshed grid, and cast the concrete.

But I am wondering what your view is on how to cast the concrete.

One way is (most expensive) to hire truck with a pump and cast the concrete in pre-installed wooden mold or box. This way all can be done (floordeck and walls) in a single cast, without the risk of appartures/cracks between multiple casts.

But this truck with pump will cost a great deal. And I have the feeling you think this will not be necessary. but then I think this will not be possible in a single cast, even with the help of the in-law-family. Simply because it probably cannot be done in one day, or even before the firstly applied concrete is hardened. Making it vunerable to cracks and water leaking.

I have a feeling you have a solution for this or I see a problem where there is none. Maybe I don't even need a wooden mold.

I would love to hear your opinion on this.

[MHayward]

Hallo Thai Community,

we want to build a Pool(ca 11x5x1,5mtr) in Buached,Surin(Isaan)

We think about a concrete pool,also a fibre pool is very interesting.

Do you know me constructors in our area??

I have already some offers from bangkok and Udon Thani,all around between 825000 and 1000000Baht.Thank you for your informations.

regards from Stuttgart

Hi I am in Sangkha, did you have any luck in sourcing a Pool Constructor locally?? If so I would really like to know, Thanks.

Cheers, MH

[fdimike]

Those of you out there thinking about building an in-ground concrete pool should also be looking at the stability of the ground under the pool. You may need to use concrete pilings to support the pool or risk fracturing the concrete due to ground movement especially during the rainy season. It might be wise to seek the advice of a local engineer before embarking on the project. Water is heavy (1 cu ft of water weighs close to 30 kgs)add in the weight of the pool itself and you can easily see this is a very heavy load for the sub-soil to support unassisted.

[MHayward]

Those of you out there thinking about building an in-ground concrete pool should also be looking at the stability of the ground under the pool. You may need to use concrete pilings to support the pool or risk fracturing the concrete due to ground movement especially during the rainy season. It might be wise to seek the advice of a local engineer before embarking on the project. Water is heavy (1 cu ft of water weighs close to 30 kgs)add in the weight of the pool itself and you can easily see this is a very heavy load for the sub-soil to support unassisted.

Good advice..and for the 'converted' among us....

1 litre of (fresh) Water weighs I kg or 1 M3 weighs 1 tonne.

Work it out guys, a pool 10m x 7 m x 1.5 deep hold around 105 Tonnes of water

Cheers, MH

[craigt3365]

That is an extremely large pool. I would assume you own a hotel or a resort. if you a re adding algaecide to a pool that size every two weeks, then clearly there is a problem that could be rectified by some automated water hygiene system. The ROI on the equipment, particulrly as you are running a business, will will be very quick as algaecide costs a forutune if you buy it packaged as a pool product.

No, it's not hotel or resort... just my private home !!!

I put some algaecide for security... my UV system works very very well... so, normaly I don't need such product... but the cost of this product is not high...

Answer for David 006

Go on my website regarding the history of my house... you will see how I build my pool... http://muanglen.online.fr

Regarding the concrete, I order the same concret as the one they used for the landing runway of the airport in Chiang Mai... and after that, I put plaster with cement and SIKA..

And don't forget that you have to make the baement/floor 1st...and after all the wall around IN ONE TIME !!!.. If your pool is big, you will need maybe 20 or 30 workers...

Phil'

Wow!!! That's an amazing house...and pool! Great job. Absolutely fantastic!!!

[katabeachbum]

Those of you out there thinking about building an in-ground concrete pool should also be looking at the stability of the ground under the pool. You may need to use concrete pilings to support the pool or risk fracturing the concrete due to ground movement especially during the rainy season. It might be wise to seek the advice of a local engineer before embarking on the project. Water is heavy (1 cu ft of water weighs close to 30 kgs)add in the weight of the pool itself and you can easily see this is a very heavy load for the sub-soil to support unassisted.

Good advice..and for the 'converted' among us....

1 litre of (fresh) Water weighs I kg or 1 M3 weighs 1 tonne.

Work it out guys, a pool 10m x 7 m x 1.5 deep hold around 105 Tonnes of water

Cheers, MH

yep

and more than 100m3/ 100 tonnes/100.000 liter, in most areas you need a buildingpermit for the pool itself.

and in most areas a pool deeper than 1,5 meter needs piling to not sink

also be aware of a concrete pool can float, if left empty

and a cu/ft of water is not almost 30Kg, it is 30 Kg

[craigt3365]

Those of you out there thinking about building an in-ground concrete pool should also be looking at the stability of the ground under the pool. You may need to use concrete pilings to support the pool or risk fracturing the concrete due to ground movement especially during the rainy season. It might be wise to seek the advice of a local engineer before embarking on the project. Water is heavy (1 cu ft of water weighs close to 30 kgs)add in the weight of the pool itself and you can easily see this is a very heavy load for the sub-soil to support unassisted.

Good advice..and for the 'converted' among us....

1 litre of (fresh) Water weighs I kg or 1 M3 weighs 1 tonne.

Work it out guys, a pool 10m x 7 m x 1.5 deep hold around 105 Tonnes of water

Cheers, MH

yep

and more than 100m3/ 100 tonnes/100.000 liter, in most areas you need a buildingpermit for the pool itself.

and in most areas a pool deeper than 1,5 meter needs piling to not sink

also be aware of a concrete pool can float, if left empty

and a cu/ft of water is not almost 30Kg, it is 30 Kg

Ours was left mostly empty for 3 years and I am guessing it floated a bit. Pretty much every PVC elbow connected to the pool...or near it...cracked and had to be replaced. Luckily, it was cheap to do! Dig a hole 1 meter deep where we live and you will hit water.

[WarpSpeed]

Those of you out there thinking about building an in-ground concrete pool should also be looking at the stability of the ground under the pool. You may need to use concrete pilings to support the pool or risk fracturing the concrete due to ground movement especially during the rainy season. It might be wise to seek the advice of a local engineer before embarking on the project. Water is heavy (1 cu ft of water weighs close to 30 kgs)add in the weight of the pool itself and you can easily see this is a very heavy load for the sub-soil to support unassisted.

Good advice..and for the 'converted' among us....

1 litre of (fresh) Water weighs I kg or 1 M3 weighs 1 tonne.

Work it out guys, a pool 10m x 7 m x 1.5 deep hold around 105 Tonnes of water

Cheers, MH

yep

and more than 100m3/ 100 tonnes/100.000 liter, in most areas you need a buildingpermit for the pool itself.

and in most areas a pool deeper than 1,5 meter needs piling to not sink

also be aware of a concrete pool can float, if left empty

and a cu/ft of water is not almost 30Kg, it is 30 Kg

Ours was left mostly empty for 3 years and I am guessing it floated a bit. Pretty much every PVC elbow connected to the pool...or near it...cracked and had to be replaced. Luckily, it was cheap to do! Dig a hole 1 meter deep where we live and you will hit water.

Definitely floated then, be prepared for some future structural issues I'm afraid if you don't already have some?

[dadath]

i built my pool my pool last year cost me 300k for everything, now building one for the bloke next door if want some help let me know costing a fair bit more this year close to 400k maybe

9mx5mx1.5m 65000 lt, pebbletex, 1 skimmer, 3 returns, maindrain, 1.5hp pentair pump, pentair ta60 sandfilter, esc24 chloromatic ,bit small recomend the 48, hassle free loving it

check out troublefreepool.com great site

if you want some help let me know

Hello,yes i need a constructor in chiang mai for a pool of 8X5 meters! 0800660248

Thanks

[Thitikan]

Hello,I will soon be offering steelwall,inground swimming pools imported from Europe.Complete sets with sandfilterpump,cover,ladder,underlay,oval shape sizes up to 9m,for great ,very low prices.

For more info :[email protected]

Keeping your pool clean and clear is all a matter of balance. Just enough sanitizer, enough water movement, the right pH and temperature, and regular brushing and vacuuming.

The two most important things to consider are sanitizer and water movement. Stagnant water breeds bacteria and other micro-organisms, which is fine if you are a pond, but not so desirable if you happen to be a swimming pool. Humans also introduce bacteria into the pool, as well as oils , maybe the occation jam sandwich, while you can fish out the sandwich, bacteria are harder to capture.

To combat such assaults, a sanitizer is used, which kills the bacteria and helps control algae growth. The most common sanitizers are chlorine and bromine based compounds. Bromine tends to be easier on the skin and mucous membranes. These compounds must be added routinely to the pool during the course of the summer to maintain high enough levels to prevent bacterial growth. The levels are measured in parts per million (ppm). If your sanitizer level drops below recommended levels for more than a few days the pool may turn cloudy. Routine super chlorinating or "shocking" your pool burns out any residual algae or bacteria.

Now, all the sanitizer in the world won't keep your pool clear without some method of circulating the sanitizer and filtering out the debris that accumulates. That is where your pump and filter come in, besides running up your electrical bill that is...

Ideally, your pump should run for about 10 hrs a day. If you have problems keeping your sanitizer level high enough, run it more. Be aware that problems keeping the sanitizer level up may be caused by high bather load or poor circulation due to pump malfunction. To some extent, lots of activity in the pool will help circulate the water.

Sometimes though, even if your sanitizer level is high enough, the water is still cloudy. This can be caused by a few factors and is usually easy to remedy. The filter is what removes particulate matter from the pool water, this is called polishing the water. If the filter is dirty or clogged, it can't do its job. Watch the pressure gauge on your filter, if it jumps 10psi or higher than normal it is time to backwash, "bump" or clean the filter media, depending on whether you have a sand, cartridge or DE filter. There are also filter cleaning products available which extend the life of the media.

Finally, if the water is still cloudy and your filter is clean, then it is possible that the particulates are too small to be trapped by the filter. A coagulating agent, usually a polymer, can be used. This will aggregate the particles and allow them to be trapped by the filter. This will usually work within a day, but you need to watch the pressure gauge on the filter, and clean it as the pressure rises.

I hope this settles a few burning questions....

[AllanB]

Those of you out there thinking about building an in-ground concrete pool should also be looking at the stability of the ground under the pool. You may need to use concrete pilings to support the pool or risk fracturing the concrete due to ground movement especially during the rainy season. It might be wise to seek the advice of a local engineer before embarking on the project. Water is heavy (1 cu ft of water weighs close to 30 kgs)add in the weight of the pool itself and you can easily see this is a very heavy load for the sub-soil to support unassisted.

Good advice..and for the 'converted' among us....

1 litre of (fresh) Water weighs I kg or 1 M3 weighs 1 tonne.

Work it out guys, a pool 10m x 7 m x 1.5 deep hold around 105 Tonnes of water

Cheers, MH

There is another way of looking at this, which is probably more valid, consider pressure. 2.3ft of water creates a head pressure of just 1 psi, so a standard pool has a water pressure (at it's base) of just 2psi, equal to blowing up a party balloon. There are pools out there made from simple thin PVC, what is more important than the water in the surrounding support.

[electau]

If you intend to install any electrical equipment eg pool filter, lighting etc make sure the any steel work in the pool (rebar) is equipotentially bonded to your main earth and that all electrical equipment is protected by 10mA RCDs and is earthed. Any in pool lighting should be SELV (safety electrical low voltage) ie less than 25VAC.