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Posted

I just change the blade on my circular saw.I changed from the blade I bought it with to one with more teeth to cut finer.

Now the new blade is sticking,smoking,pulling to one side and pushing back.

 

This is my first time changing a blade on a circular saw as you might have guessed.

I'm useing it with wood from a durian tree which a not espechialy hard.

 

What do you think might be happening.

Posted

I'd bet that it is a cheap blade and the teeth have no or not enough set. Using a calipers, the width of the teeth should be noticeably wider than the blade itself.

Posted

Is the wood green and unseasoned (fresh)?

 

EDIT You do have the blade the right way round don't you (I know, but one has to ask)?

Posted

No,I just changed the blade around to the opposite direction

and the problem is worse.

 

I tried going slower and it helped but it's still not cutting straight

smoking a bit and pushing back at the end of the cut.

 

The wood might be a tiny bit green so I'll try with something really old.

 

The blade was 400bht in HomePro.

The previous blade was Bosch.

Posted

The original blade is ruined from using it on FiberBoard.

I am keeping it for FiberBoard from now on.

 

Why are the teeth clogging up.Is it because it's a 400bht blade and not

1500bht that I see on Ebay.

 

The wood is 3/4 inch thick

Posted

What is tpi.

 

Can anyone recommend a decent blade or tell me how much  I should spend on one.

How many teeth it should have for woodwork,fine but not very fine cut .

 

Maybe this blade is only for very thin wood.

Posted (edited)

TPI, teeth per inch, or pitch.

When I did my trade the minimum teeth in contact with the surface should be three.

In other words if you are cutting one eights thick then you need a saw with at least 24 teeth per inch.

It depends on the thickness of the durian timber which is quite soft.

Edit. For 3/4 durian I would think you need something around 4 tpi (ie 1/4 inch between the tops of each tooth. Pitch), but someone could prove me wrong.

Double edit. I would set the guide at about 1 inch depth cut with a 4 to 6 tpi blade.

But that is just me. 

Edited by sipi
Didn't see thickness.
Posted

No disrespect intended, but it sounds like you need to learn about the tool and how to use it correctly. Blindly buying a saw and switching it on and hoping for the best is not ideal. There are plenty of helpful guides on you tube. Learning to use it properly is also a safety issue for you and those around you. 

 

Just a suggestion.

Posted

I've been using the saw for over a year and was getting good accurate cuts

with it.I learned how to make guides and jigs for it and everything was going great until I used it on Fiberboard.

 

So I took the old blade in to homepro and got the same size blade with more teeth thinking that would make a finer cut.That seems to be where I went wrong.

 

I need to find a medium fine blade for wood which can be used for cross cuts and riping.

I need to know how many teeth it should have and where to buy it.I don't think homepro will

have it.

Maybee Thaicarpenter.com or Ebay.

But first I need to know which blade,do I have to buy a brand name blade.

I see some Makita and Bosch in Korea on ebay for 1000bht.

 

I would love a link to a blade for sale online.

Posted

A rule that always stood me in good stead with any tools is "buy cheap, you'll buy twice"  go for a mid to high price range, it will save you money in the long run as quality lasts.

 

Best of luck with your choices.

 

Posted

I'm finding youtube guys who recommend 60t wood saws to do,cross cuts,and rip cuts with natural or man made wood.

 

I'm also finding Makita 60 tooth for sale in Korea for 1000 including delivery.

 

Any advice on 60 tooth wood blades.are they a good all purpose blafes for wood work.

Posted

Guess it's all just about been said, 

Not enough set on the teeth. 

Too many teeth so chips don't clear - smoking and binding. 

Cut and then ease the saw back allowing chips to clear. 

Posted

Oh & by the way the reason your blade went blunt is because you used it on Fiber Board or otherwise known by brand name here Shera Board - Am I right ?

To cut or drill that stuff you need Cobalt tipped tools - I just bought a 5 mm bit that cost 300 bht

Posted
4 hours ago, chiangrai said:

Now the new blade is sticking,smoking,pulling to one side and pushing back.

Seriously just about any circular blade in the store should be able to cut a 3/4 inch board if that blade is new.  There is no reason to order a saw blade from Korea. just go get another one, different brand. 

I think you either got a bad blade, or you are just rushing the job. A dull blade will smoke. But only a messed up blade would do all the things you are claiming.

Posted
14 minutes ago, BEVUP said:

Oh & by the way the reason your blade went blunt is because you used it on Fiber Board or otherwise known by brand name here Shera Board - Am I right ?

To cut or drill that stuff you need Cobalt tipped tools - I just bought a 5 mm bit that cost 300 bht

I use a 4" masonry cutting wheel in a marble cutter. Cuts all day, makes a lot of dust though.

Posted
14 minutes ago, canuckamuck said:

I use a 4" masonry cutting wheel in a marble cutter. Cuts all day, makes a lot of dust though.

Yeh i would say your right there sure I've done the same but I had the drill bit thing on my mind as I'm planning to drill some clearance holes in the Fiber sheeting

Posted

I buy carbide tipped blades at the local Ma and Pa store for about 200 baht , both ripping and finishing, and have never had a problem  It sounds like you might have gotten a defective blade. When they wear out they go in the box for blades used for butting Shera wood which is concrete based, but the blades work well.  You should have no trouble cutting "fiber" board with a normal blade as all that it is is sawdust and glue.  Let it get wet and you will soon find out as I did when I "shoveled" my kitchen cabinets from the kitchen in my house in Bangkok after the 2011 flood!

 

As far as drill bits I just use standard bits, not concrete  or diamond ones, for drilling Shera board.  Yes they do wear out after time and are not good for drilling anything else, but they are only 25 baht for one .

Posted
19 hours ago, chiangrai said:

I've been using the saw for over a year and was getting good accurate cuts

with it.I learned how to make guides and jigs for it and everything was going great until I used it on Fiberboard.

 

So I took the old blade in to homepro and got the same size blade with more teeth thinking that would make a finer cut.That seems to be where I went wrong.

 

I need to find a medium fine blade for wood which can be used for cross cuts and riping.

I need to know how many teeth it should have and where to buy it.I don't think homepro will

have it.

Maybee Thaicarpenter.com or Ebay.

But first I need to know which blade,do I have to buy a brand name blade.

I see some Makita and Bosch in Korea on ebay for 1000bht.

 

I would love a link to a blade for sale online.

 

I just did a quick search on Lazada in Thailand and it shows 644 items for sale.

 

http://www.lazada.co.th/catalog/?q=circular saw blades

 

 

Posted

Op never stated what "Electric Saw" he had. Possible it doesn't have enough power to do what he needs to do?

Posted

My saw is a big old bosch saw ,it's got 1400W written  on it.

 

Wayned,that link you gave me was really helpful.How does that blade cut.

Is it reasonably neat and tidy or rough cut.

 

Judgeing by the chart that Impulse posted the new blade I'm using is for plywood with 

over 100 teeth.Would that blade get stuck in durian wood.

 

Direct links like Waned posted are great.I'm going to order that one unless some one posts  a link to a blade that would suit me better.

Posted
1 hour ago, Crossy said:

Have you tried it on some known seasoned wood?

 

??

 

How old is your durian wood since it was felled?

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