Crossy

Alternatively, assuming you can get the dark switch apart, many of them have a change-over relay anyway, you should just be able to move the output wire to the normally closed contact.

Long ago in a galaxy far, far away. OK pretty close really ????

Yeah, oxidation needs oxygen and moisture (didn't you do the iron nail in water experiment in high school?), but differential metals will corrode with just a little damp.

It's already ruddy Baltic even here in BKK, "Global Warming" my backside We have friends in Buffalo who are really struggling ????

Good tyres and serviceable brakes optional then.

The issue is the battery terminals themselves; the differing metals (aluminium terminals vs copper busbars) can cause corrosion. Vaseline will definitely help by keeping the damp out but for a "proper job" use the real stuff. It's loaded with Al dust to fill any minor gaps (even the scratches from the emery) with conductive goop. For a few 10s of Amps, no major issue but when you get into "real" power every milli-ohm matters ????

If you are making up your own battery packs I would also invest in some Uni-Seal jointing compound. A quick rub over with emery on the terminals followed by a smear (you really don't need much) of this stuff will ensure a good and long-lasting contact. Use it on all your high-current joints. It's definitely not cheap, but one tube will last you a lifetime, shake well before use. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2156648662-s7185722295.html

I would add that wrenches/spanners, socket sets, screwdrivers, hammers, files, power drills (and drill bits of various formats) etc. etc. would come in my bracket of "normal DIY tools" rather than being specific to solar. But if you don't have them, now is a good time to go shopping ????

Yeah, good idea. In order to manage any job you really need both a 1/2" square drive and 1/4" square drive set (a decent 3/8" square drive set may do the trick). Have a look in your local DIY places, quality varies vastly and you really don't want the cheapest of the cheap.

Metric, although there are imperial fasteners on sale in some places the closest metric size spanner usually fits OK. Get a set of combination spanners Or

Yes, but you have to verify it does do DC current, many don't and do AC only.

But your place is most definitely a "special case", how many of us have overhead cranes?

You mean rolling blackouts like Texas? https://www.texastribune.org/2022/11/29/texas-power-grid-winter-ercot-forecast/ Madam doesn't do "one at a time", she's an all or nothing woman.

The kettle (1,800W), 4 slice toaster (1,800W) and 1,500W microwave (heating the beans for the toast) totals 23A ish, a 20A breaker would probably stay on, just long enough. Two circuits in the kitchen is a good idea ????

10A is good on lighting with 1.0 or 1.5mm2 cable (I find 1mm2 is a bit small for mechanical strength). Stick the outlets on a 20A if using 2.5mm2 cable although only kitchen circuits are likely to get anywhere near 20A (4.4kW total) anyway. Fixed appliances as appropriate for their power consumption.

The power pole looks to be relatively unscathed, I hope it recovers from any damage quickly.

Anything powered by the 220V supply. Fans, electric barbie, Ghetto Blaster, that sort of thing. Really, really avoid having power outlets in the pool area, they are way too tempting.

Please let them be 12V! Mains pool lights really are accidents waiting to happen!

From another forum. My flight was being served by an obviously gay flight attendant, who seemed to put everyone in a good mood as he served us food and drinks. As the plane prepared to descend, he came swishing down the aisle and told us that "Captain Marvey has asked me to announce that he'll be landing the big scary plane shortly, so lovely people, if you could just put your trays up, that would be super." On his trip back up the aisle, he noticed a well-dressed rather Arabic-looking woman hadn't moved a muscle. "Perhaps you didn't hear me over those big brute engines but I asked you to raise your trazy-poo, so the main man can pitty-pat us on the ground." She calmly turned her head and said, "In my country, I am called a Princess and I take orders from no one." To which, without missing a beat the flight attendant replied, "Well, sweet-cheeks, in my country I'm called a Queen, so I outrank you. Tray-up, B***h."

There's a long discussion here https://aseannow.com/topic/1281234-earth-cablegrounding/ Are your pool lights low-voltage (12V) with proper transformers located away from the pool area? Your pumps etc. should not be accessible by pool users and can use the house ground. Generally, all the metalwork in the pool area, including the pool structural steel and the lighting should be electrically bonded together creating an equipotential zone. Whether this zone is then connected to the house electrical earth is debatable, I would follow the UK/Europe convention of NOT connecting to the electrical ground. Is there any possibility of mains powered equipment being used in the pool area? If at all possible, this should be avoided. The vast majority of pool electrocutions are caused by faulty mains powered kit (or just wet hands operating kit not designed for it).

It just auto-cancelled and the $$$ is on the way back to my CC ???? COD is just not an option for me I'm afraid. Positive transactions far outweigh the relatively few real issues we've seen and no money has ever actually been lost.

Yeah, I was suggesting that possibly the only way to continue with Net Marathon at the same(ish) price would be a new Net Marathon SIM. We ended up getting one of the slow but unlimited packages, for our purposes (backup for the fibre) it does the job.

Yeah, ours ran out earlier this year. I think the only way to continue would be to get a new Net Marathon SIM assuming of course that they are still available.