Crossy

If your CT is in the right place and "Export" is set to 0% then the only variable is if the CT is the right way round. With all your load turned off and no-export enabled your meter should not be moving. If it is moving, swap the CT connections, re-start the inverter and check again.

At the sharp end We didn't get our 2.4m in all the way (using an SDS hammer and adaptor) so just cut off the top so the cover would fit on the earth pit. Not a word was said by the inspector. If you use the "regulation" exothermic weld to attach the cable any marking will be obliterated anyway.

I'm still a member of "Wiltshire Young Farmers", does that count?

I've never heard of anyone being rejected coz they have clamps (we do).

I posted this in one of the other "electricity bill through the roof" threads. The red column is our overall usage. Our habits haven't changed, A/C at the same temperature, but the usage is up by 30%. This is purely due to the A/C and fridge/freezers working harder, it's hot people! There is a slight saving in not using the water heater due to the "cold" water being almost too warm for a shower. The swimming pool is like a bath.

Do let us know what transpires.

Definitely time to ask PEA.

Myself and @JAS21 repeated our earlier "controlled" experiment with cleaning, similar results to last time. A 10% increase in the corrected output (equivalent to 4kWh per day for us) is definitely worth the effort of cleaning the panels.

Time to ask PEA methinks ????

Yeah, 1125 is the standard domestic type. Could be they swapped the meter for some reason. I'd wait for the next bill and see what it looks like.

Is it possible you've changed from a "construction supply" to a permanent supply? Or maybe have a Time Of Use (TOU) meter? What number is in the "Type" box near the top of the bill?

Fixing a leaky pipe for Madam over-rides all other tasks!

I've not done any research other than a quick look on Lazada, so I can't really recommend any particular unit. Sorry.

It would come back on whilst you were feeling around for the light switch In these days of interconnected everything I'm sure some enterprising individual could come up with a "smart" system with interlinked door and window sensors, occupancy sensors and a time of day reading, throw in some AI to make an educated guess as to whether there was someone in there or not.

Occupancy sensors work pretty well https://www.lazada.co.th/products/220v-800w-microwave-sensor-pir-occupancy-body-motion-detector-light-switch-i2653378457-s9541413294.html To work an A/C this one would need a contactor, but not difficult or expensive. They do have some downsides: - Many moons ago an engineering company decided that they could save on energy by fitting occupancy sensors in the lavatories. These would turn out the lights when nobody was in there. Unfortunately, the time out in the men's room was just a little too short and sometimes the lights went out when you were in a stall. The solution was to open the stall door and wave at the sensor. All fine and dandy until one fateful day the elderly lady cleaner happened to walk in just as a young engineer was waving at the sensor with his trousers round his ankles. The cleaner survived the experience and the sensors were disabled. I wonder who that young engineer was

Our "usage" remains pretty constant, but the actual energy consumption has whizzed up recently: - The red column is our total consumption, up 30% since February. This is purely from A/C and freezers working harder during the warm weather.

700k Baht would be about 150k units or 5000 units per day! Finger in the air would need nigh on 1.8MW of solar! This is serious solar-farm stuff, probably 2 rai of space. Plenty of commercial roof systems in Thailand that big. Our local Global House could probably help ???? Or something a little more affordable.

At 48V it's well less than an amp, 24 would be fine.

One as your original drawing, second 50R across the -ve side breaker.

That would work, you have to press the + and - switches together, it would be better to find a 2-pole switch. Alternatively, just have single-pole breakers to the inverters and retain 2-pole from battery to bus-bar. OR Get 2 x 50 ohm resistors and put one of them across the -ve side breaker, then you could use your single existing switch. There are many ways you could do this. Throw in a few 10A diodes and you could have one switch pre-charge both inverters.

Then, 4.77 to 4.70 : - I really have no idea what the rate will be for us at the next bill. ????

Yeah, the ranges are not necessarily interchangeable within the brands let alone cross-brand ???? Pop out the switch and take it along to the store to ensure you are getting the right thing. You may have to order online (Lazada etc.) ????

The UK would require a "double-check valve" which is essentially two non-return valves in one housing.

Yeah ^^^, it's likely less costly to give 10k to everyone than to means-test the handout.

Moved to The Pub to avoid having to close as not Thailand related. A warning to all AirBnB hosts.