Crossy

Baaa, humbug!!

Not something I've seen, yet. Latest add-on for me is them sending an OTP to my phone to authorise an order, closely followed by an OTP from Citi to authorise my card transaction.

I'm still OK on step-ladders, despite being "somewhat" overweight When it comes to ladder-ladders I have a step-son

The Moro Islamic Liberation Front (MILF) are really miffed about being on page 6,000 of a Google search https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moro_Islamic_Liberation_Front

We have a total of 10 * 10W (real W not "solar" W) 12V floodlights around our place. The lights have 10W COB LEDs but in reality, are closer to 5.5W (measured) when run from 12V. The lights are split into two groups of 5 so about 27.5W per group. Each group is supplied by a roughly 40Ah 12V LiFePO4 pack made up from a selection of el-cheapo 32650 cells obtained from Lazada over the years whilst trying to find a decent source. The cells were capacity tested and them assembled as a (lots)P x 4S pack with a cheap BMS that was "in-stock". The pack is charged by a motley selection of used panels totalling about 100WP solar per 5 light group, via a home-brew "sort of MPPT" controller. The lights run all night at full intensity using about 340Wh (28Ah) from the pack. The panels usually manage to put this back by mid-day (weather dependant of course). IoT monitoring is by an ESP8266 based V/I/W monitoring thingy powered by the same pack. The ESP isn't the lowest power beast, but it's what I have a stack of. Apart from the floods themselves (cheap from Lazada / China) it was all assembled from stuff that was in the "potentially useful bits" box. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/angelila-12v-24v-led-flood-light-waterproof-10w-20w-30w-50w-floodlight-lamp-safety-led-work-light-for-offroad-driving-marine-fishing-boat-deck-trawler-suv-tractor-i4167531100-s16377228216.html? Illumination is definitely more than adequate for security, and of course, costs zero to run. It would be a whole 4 Baht per night on grid power, but every little helps. In relatable terms that's 2 slabs of Chang per year "free"

OK let's try and sort this one out once and for all. First thing we need @liddelljohn is some photos: - The device which is tripping, after it has tripped - So we know exactly what we are looking at. Your CU / distribution board with the lid off (care please). The rating plate of your oven. Have you tried an appliance of similar rating (kettle, toaster) in place of the oven? Can you try the oven on a different circuit? Have you re-checked that the doorbell/outside lighting hasn't got the damp in again? I'm suspecting some sort of earth leakage but let's gather some evidence. Note:- The oven being live-case when the ground is off isn't necessarily a fault, elements do tend to leak somewhat, and of course, any switching power supplies will have mains filters. Also, do you have any test gear (multimeter)?

To save everyone the trouble of posting, I could just re-name last year's thread

They are on vacation with your missing socks on the planet where wire-hangers breed I did once find a screw I had dropped in the past, unfortunately it was embedded in my car tyre!

Yeah, it wasn't done like that to miff the haters (honest) For reasons unknown (ok, a quirk of forum software) I couldn't actually get all the poll options in on the edit, it always dropped one or other.

A good question which I admit I had never thought about, just assumed (always a bad idea) that "copper clad" and "copper sheathed" were synonymous. This is what Bard AI has to say on the subject: - ================================================= While the terms "copper clad steel" and "copper sheathed steel" are sometimes used interchangeably, there are subtle differences between the two. Here's a breakdown: Copper Clad Steel: Bonding method: The copper layer is mechanically bonded to the steel core using heat and pressure. This creates a tight bond, but it can be susceptible to cracking or peeling if subjected to high stress or extreme temperatures. Copper thickness: The copper layer is typically thinner than in copper-bonded steel. This allows for greater flexibility but reduces conductivity. Applications: Copper clad steel is commonly used in stranded conductors, wire mesh, and applications where flexibility is important. Copper Bonded Steel: Bonding method: The copper layer is bonded to the steel core through an electroplating process. This results in a more uniform and corrosion-resistant bond than in copper-clad steel. Copper thickness: The copper layer is thicker than in copper-clad steel, which improves conductivity. However, this can make the rod less flexible. Applications: Copper-bonded steel is primarily used in ground rods, solid wire, and applications where high conductivity and corrosion resistance are critical. Here's a table summarizing the key differences: Feature Copper Clad Steel Copper Bonded Steel Bonding method Mechanical Electroplating Copper thickness Thinner Thicker Flexibility More flexible Less flexible Conductivity Lower Higher Corrosion resistance Good Excellent Applications Stranded conductors, wire mesh Ground rods, solid wire Ultimately, the best choice for your application will depend on your specific needs. If you need a flexible conductor with good conductivity, copper clad steel may be a good option. However, if you need a high-conductivity and corrosion-resistant ground rod, copper-bonded steel is the better choice.

An elderly Dutchman slips into the confessional of his church and says to the priest that he’d like to make his confession. The priest encourages him to come clean so the old man says, “during WWII I hid a family of refugees from the Nazis in my attic.” The priest assures him that wasn’t a sin, that God wouldn’t punish him for it. “Well, Father, I required them to pay me a tenth of an ounce of gold per head per week to stay in the attic.” The priest considers and says, “well, your intentions were good and you did have risk and expense, so the Lord won’t hold that against you.” The old man sighs with relief. “Does that mean I don’t have to tell them the war is over?”

Bigger never hurts

After several attempts the Dolphins are happy.

Yeah, there are a couple of threads in the News forum. Very worrying! I'll close this one to keep everything together.

That would satisfy Aussie regulations. BUT. Thai regulations require a minimum of 10mm2 to your rod. UK regs actually want a (way over-sized in reality) minimum of 16mm2 to the rod (BS7671 18th edition, Regulations 543.1.2 - 543.1.5) as does the US NEC. It's always best to verify with local regulations., usually our Western/Aussie regs easily satisfy or exceed the local ones but ... From this PEA document Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf Page 7 of the .pdf, clause 2 Groundwire Mk2 boo

Of course, I had to verify it was forum-safe, just in case I was completely blown away!!

Since our OP is safely out of Thailand I think we can close this.

Edited, yeah, I think you're screwed The extension stamps use up a whole page (although two half-pages would probably work).

I believe Japan has "businesswomen" too, are they included?? Probably a few trans people in there too

Long ago, I worked on a project in Malaysia. All government forms are dual-language, Bahasa Malaysia and English, with one exception, the application for a Work Permit, which was in BM only! Governments move in mysterious ways.

Yup, all stalls, so nobody knows anything about your body.

It would seem that some have them