Crossy

I'm sure it's all a misunderstanding of course

You can't use 3 x 1 phase RCBOs instead of a 3-phase unit I'm afraid How will you route your single returning neutral, or, if the heater doesn't have a neutral your 3 x 1 phase units will never see balance and won't stay on I suspect that your only solution, if you don't want to replace your plug-in CU, would be to add a separate box with the 3-phase DIN units in it. Note: - Even if your heater is 3-wire your RCDs will likely need a neutral connection on the inlet side. @bluejets have you ever seen a plug-in (Schneider) 3-phase RCBO? This would be to protect a 3-phase load (water heater) and replace a 3-phase plug-in MCB.

Yeah, plug-in 3-phase rcd/rcbo are as common as hen's teeth, mcb's no problem at all of course.

You do realise that's a DIN mount unit not plug-in don't you? https://www.tme.eu/en/details/a9z21425/rcd-circuit-breakers/schneider-electric/

I really hope he has the relevant insurance in place! At least it seems from the linked article that the strands have been tidied so no further risk to humans or Belgian tourists.

There are stories of released Indian prisoners breaking back in to jail for the good food!!

Yes, you will need a new re-entry permit and must return before the end of your under-consideration stamp.

Here are our numbers for November. Not the best we've had, spoiled by a few bad days but I'm not complaining. About 4,188 Baht that we've not paid to PEA vs the 500 Baht we did pay them

How to you intend obtaining the necessary B visa in your US passport?

A separate isolator can have a bigger rating then the main MCB in the CU (which provides the overload protection). It really serves only to isolate the whole installation for safe working.

It leaves a "live" end even briefly until you get the temporary insulation on. If that touches something grounded or the neutral there is nothing between you and the transformer! The arc-flash mentioned by @bluejets becomes a very real issue! You do not want to be anywhere near that.

Check with your sparks or the local PEA office, they seem to be as variable as immigration when it comes to rules I'd go for 16mm2 Cu or 25mm2 Al to be safe. On a 5/15 it really should be a 20A incomer but since you are going to upgrade anyway ...

In my experience when the card is blocked by a travel notice or similar the machine says something like "Transaction cancelled - Contact your bank" and the RETURNS the card. I've only ever had a card eaten when I've entered the PIN wrong 3 times (similar card same bank, I'm an idiot).

Today I received my shiny new "Issued by UOB" Citi branded Visa card. UOB have taken over the Thai business from Citi. It would have been nice if the person applying the UOB stickers hadn't been drunk. At first, I thought UOB were saving money by using up Citi blanks, but on the back of the card, correctly printed, is "Issued by United Overseas Bank" so this is an actual UOB card that has needed an el-cheapo sticker put on the front. Never mind, it works just fine, even with the wonky sticker.

I was going to anyway as discussing ad-blockers is against the forum rules.

Let's continue in the News thread

How do you intend taking the $$$ home? There are limits on how much cash you can carry, I'm not sure of the exact numbers I'm afraid. It might be wise the transfer from your bank or use one of the money transfer apps rather than carry cash.

I would just do Option 1. Notes: - If you leave without a re-entry permit your extension is cancelled automatically (so you couldn't use it to return). You can get a single re-entry permit at the airport IIRC 1,000 Baht + a service fee. Since you don't want to extend again in future nobody is going to check your bank balance, just withdraw the $$$.

The new meter can do up to 100A per-phase before going outside cal range. So, about 66kW total load. Similarly, the old unit could do up to 45A per-phase whilst remaining in cal. Which would be about 30kW total load. Note that the limiting factor is actually the cables to the house and the incoming breaker rather than the meter entering low-earth orbit

No issue whatever, the digital meters are all good for 100A whereas your old meter was only good for 45A. EDIT The first number is the calibration current and the second the maximum current where cal is still in limits. The older whizzy meters being electromechanical have a smaller "accurate" range then the all-singing digital ones.

Yeah, I was thinking December had already arrived.

Two months before expiry is pushing it, but it never hurts to ask. Go cap in hand to immigration and explain your situation, you never know your luck.

Is it still the same after the maintenance the other night??