Kenny202

I just noticed somehow I accidentally had turned spot focus on, instead of leaving it in auto. I guess that wouldnt have helped ????

Most people actually get bitten trying to kill snakes with a shovel. usually on the ankle. They are lightning fast and a spitting Cobra will sort you out with a shot to they eyes before you have raised the shovel. Best leave these things alone as 90% of snakes in Thailand non venomous and a benefit to have around. I would love to see a Golden tree snake in my garden. Those on particular love rats, mice and especially Tukae ????

100% golden tree snake. Beautiful creatures. In any case with all wildlife...admire from a distance and leave it alone. They are no problem to have around ????

Went to the markets last night took about 10 clips. I shot in 25fps / 50 thinking it would allow more light. Was just on twilight / dark. There is a bit of grain in the movie as you would expect but the worst thing focus. A lot of people moving around obviously (close and far away) as well as market stalls having their own lights...so patches of dark and patches of very bright light. Its an outdoor market with no overhead or general lighting. The only lighting is from the stalls lights themselves. As far as focus goes I am guessing in low light the camera selects a very wide aperture to let as much light in as possible and this alters the depth of field where it is only possible to focus on one near subject, and the rest become a bit of a blur. Like Bokeh? Does that sound right? I am guessing in this situation it is near impossible to video without some extra lighting

Awww man, typical women....always doing an environmental assessment, looking for problems, clues or evidence (particularly if she has been away overnight lol). But generally looking for issues I can fix for her, or usually 3 at once

Just got a new Samsung TV and connected it to our old Panasonic surround system (8 yr old?) with HDMI cable. Was chuffed to bits that the TV seemed to automatically communicate with the sound system and can adjust everything on the TV remote, rather than have TV and Surround system remote and only one HDMI cable. When I connected the TV with the HDMI cable the sound system automatically went to ARC mode. We use to have it set on Aux connected to a true top box think, I think with RCA cables. Anyway, everything working perfectly, the only issue I have is when we watch, particularly action movies the sound jumps up dramatically (20-30%) at critical parts of the movie which it is meant to......maybe in a theater etc, but particularly annoying at home and forever have my hand on the TV remote volume control to cut sound and then turn up again when things quiet again. Are there any solutions? I don't seem to be able to display the menu settings of the surround system on the TV...Can change a few things on the sound system with the SS remote, viewing the little display on the front....There are a few presets like clear, movie, soft etc if any of those would make a difference? There doesn't seem to be settings in Netflix and Prime to counter these spikes in volume? Very little I can do on the TV sound menu as most of it is blanked out, I guess because it has sensed the TV sound is being controlled elsewhere. I have had a look at online fixes like setting to night mode (our SS doesnt have that), increasing volume on the center speaker ( I don't think it can do that either).....so looks to me my only setting options I can change on the SS in "Sound mode" are FLAT, HEAVY, SOFT, CLEAR. Also has some surround settings like STANDARD, MULTI CHANNEL, MOVIE, MUSIC and STEREO. Any help or advice appreciated

Thanks for your help bro. My eyes were ignoring it until she mentioned it lol. Really isn't a big issue and doesn't detract from viewing. Only reason we noticed it was when the movie first started and the screen was completely black before opening credits. and even then the tiniest cloudiness right in the middle of the screen. I will live with it and see if it gets worse over the coming months

Yeah sounds like exactly what you said and after googling it seems like it is normal. Even some of the manufacturers websites says its normal. The issue is that negligible not really even worth worrying about, was my eagle eyed (always doing an environment assessment) Mrs that first noticed it. Only happens when the screen is completely turned on but black background which is hardly ever and even then hardly noticeable. The TV is a cheaper one, Samsung 50" 10k THB from Lotus Model number UA50AU7002KXXT. With two small boys running around throwing stuff around the loungeroom wasn't prepared to invest more than that lol. Was just worried it may be something that will get worse over time...usually a month out of warranty!

Bought a new Samsung UHD TV yesterday. Everything fine but when the screen is turned on and a completely black background, there is like a very faint white cloud about 150cm in the middle of the screen. Very very feint, hardly noticeable....and like I said only barely noticeable when the screen is completely black. Just wondering if it is something about new TV screen burning in or something that may get worse. The obvious reply would be take it back but a lot of hassle if it is for nothing. Hoping for a reply someone knows if it is an issue or not

Learnt that the hard way recently with a DSLR I had. Would crash every time I shot a movie. Thought the camera was faulty until I saw the prehistoric SD card in it. Forget what it was rated at but must have been some of the first ones they ever made lol

Thanks so much for your help bro!

A couple of other things after a bit of experimentation (sorry to be a pest ???? 1) As much of my shooting will be indoors night time in room lights / low light or indoors daytime with some window light..... I read in lower light, a lower FPS speed setting ie 25p will allow more light and hence a clearer movie? Does that sound right? I did a couple of test movies in 25 and 50 and think I did see an improvement in 25p 2) Straight off the disk the files are MTS....I can copy them straight to my computer and play them, convert them or what ever. If I use the Sony software to export the photos off the camera I get an MTS-2 file Is there anything going on there with the different files or does something happen (compression, enhancement etc) using the software, or does it just change the file extension and not much else. If it is only adding file metadata or something and not improving image quality it is not important to me. Only reason I ask a lot easier for me to copy the MTS files straight off the SD card rather than go through the export process with the Sony software. Thanks again ????

I got 64gb HD + 64gb SD so plenty and then some... for me anyway. Thanks for you great effort / help ????

Understood ????

I understand and I want the highest quality. No question about that and not what I am asking you. I am askong you how do I get the highest quality. Is 25p better than 50p quality wise or vice versa irrespective of being able to slow mo etc in post. You mentioned 50p at first then your last quote says full hd 25p or PS. PS is 50p right?

Well its a bit confusilng for me anyway. I thought 50p was smoother / clearer and 25p was more for old skool / cinema effect? Clearly I have no clue. Appreciate your detailed replies so far, but would u be able to explain difference in quality 25 / 50 in laymans terms. Being a layman I assume bigger numbers = better quality ????

So is 25p a better choice than 50p?

Another one for you guys re quality settings. The camera has 3 independent settings.... 1) Frame rate (50i, 50p,25p) 2) FX (highest quality) FH (High quality) HQ (standard) 3) Quality (HD, STD) I know the best thing to do is shoot some stuff and see what I think but I don't often have good subjective reasoning when judging quality of photo, film or sound. So looking for the nest logical starting point. Can't really get my head around it all but I after the clearest / smoothest video at the minimum size. Mainly for viewing on PC, not TV or large screens. I would like a smaller size file but don't want to sacrifice quality. Not sure if Video is the same as photos where there is a point that the increased resolution is unnoticeable unless you are making large prints? Given all this should I just select FX, 50i and HD for the ultimate quality and compress in post? I notice if I select 50p frame rate setting....the camera defaults to a PS setting (AVCHD 28M) and you can no longer select HX, FH or HQ. The HD setting still showing HD but not sure if this is the case. I think from what I have read I would like to use progressive rather than interlaced but like I said I am automatically locked into default PS settings. Does anyone know what PS mode is? Am I still shooting high quality HD?

I have it set to shoot in normal mode, 2D. Not interested in the 3D side of it at all. Mine had HDD and SD storage as well. The reviews and specs on it were good, and it is like new / unused so for $20 will entertain / educate myself cheaply ???? Some of those older cameras still going for fairly decent money...even mini disk and DV cameras. Anything in decent condition 3000 - 6000 baht. The reason mine was so cheap is the guy inherited it from his dads house and said no charger, but it has a built in USB lead to charge the battery. So camera / battery dead when I bought it. Took a punt and it was perfect

Handbrake does seem good and lots of video tutorials on it. I also have Wondershare Fimora (Editor) and their conversion program which are both probably older versions. Conversion program seems ok but I think it is limited....mostly just changes the resolution I think if reducing size. Is Final Cut pro difficult to use for a newbie?

My new best friend lol. Thanks for your reply. My camera only has settings of 25, 50i and 50p. When you say compress into an MPEG 4 file you mean Mp4? Or is MPEG 4 format different? What would you suggest as a converter? the output of my Sony is MTS straight off the SD card, or MTS2 importing with Sony's proprietary software. It is an older camera, but I bought it for next to nothing and it is like new so thought I would have a bit of fun with it and maybe learn something ???? I am only a hobbyist...and I am sure there are better more modern cameras out there but just not prepared, at this stage anyway to invest in something may be a flash in the pan. So making the best of this one Its a Sony HDR-TD20VE if you are interested. Actually a 3D camera but not interested in that side of it. I had a 3D Pana would have been about the same vintage some years ago. Man it shot a nice clear movie, even inside in low light

Hi there, thanks for your reply. Well for starters, my camcorder makes pretty huge files. Average about 30mb per only 2 minutes. Its about 10 year old Sony but hi spec prosumer, well in its day it was. Full HD, not 4k. Mostly viewed on computer...not TV I want high quality but when required want to compress the files down without too much loss of quality. Bear in mind total newbie here not that familiar with bit rates etc ???? There are a lot of converters around but much of them just seem to make the pixels less (?) say 1080p to 720p etc which seems pretty lossy. Anything you can recommend? Preferably free. Was looking at Handbrake app before. Seems to be well regarded? Another question regarding FPS....I can set my Sony to 25 or 50...P or I. I believe the P setting higher quality than the i (Interlaced setting) Does that sound right? I am after the clearest, best quality I can get...not after cinematic effect or anything. What would be the best frame rate to achieve this? 25 or 50? P or I? Appreciate your help ????

Just got a Sony handycam and have a few questions regarding settings etc. I wont go into detail with a list of questions as its a bit of a long shot. Would like to hear from someone if you know some of this stuff ????

She was actually quite senior, or had a senior looking rank. Maybe she was working in the field before. Mind you I asked one of them once, I think her desk ID said something like Captain lieutenant major something or other and she told me she was quite low ranked lol

That is good information, I will confirm that with the branch. I guess though if you waiver the facial recognition you will be liable for any future <deleted> ups or loss of money going back to the beginning of time even if its the bank itself fault. No care no / no responsibility. TIT, a$$ covering hub of the universe