sometimewoodworker

You are correct, Pre formed lengths of 25 meters don’t exist, but incorrect that 25 metre unjointed lengths can’t be used. There are rolfoming machines that are small enough and light enough to be mounted on a truck or even a small trailer so they can be, and are, produced on site. These machines have been in use for decades in America so it’s likely that they may well have been manufactured in China and shipped to Thailand.

While you may have a can or WD40 if it is the standard, rather than one of the more specialist versions, then is is not,and never was, designed as an effective lubricant. It certainly does give some small amount of lubricant but is not the product to use for the job. The very name tells you the job it was designed to do, it is a Water Dispersement, and the lubricant is a side effect not a primary purpose.

While it is quite possible that the WD40 may be a good way of cleaning out the gunk it will also dilute and wash out the grease packing the the bearings so if you take the advice make sure that the bearings get sufficient lubricants after that. It is also possible that, if you don’t use enough to completely wash out the bearings completely you may be adding a slurry of dust, muck and grease into the bearing races. I would suggest compressed air as a better way to get stuff out.

Believe @Crossy he is absolutely correct. We have enough down pipes and this is the result Again completely correct. With a minor rainstorm they will fill in hours, get a normal tropical downpour and they will be full in minutes not hours This is what can happen

Do not do it. Aluminium attached to stainless steel is a recipe for corrosion in the aluminium. You are unlikely to have a significant weight reduction adding aluminium as the thickness required for SS is so much less than for a similar strength with stainless steel. It is likely that your gate will be cheaper in the mixed material. That doesn’t address the difference in looks between the two. I very much doubt that your gate will look the same as new in 8~10 years time whereas our stainless steel looks exactly the same now as when first installed, the only thing that is at all different is that the gate opener rail (galvanised steel) has rusted a bit.

You are totally incorrect. The vast majority of filter housings are designed to be under pumped pressure, however if your filter is sufficiently blocked with debris it will either bypass or provide insufficient flow.

The location of the filter is very dependent on the size and type of the filter. For a large area sand filter to be effective it needs to be relatively slow per square cm and gravity feed type so before the pump For a cartridge filter, they are designed for a higher per square cm throughput so should be a pressure feed unit so after a pump The reasoning is that pumps have a weak suck but high push.

The name is a pair of wire cutters !

The answer to the topic is YES. However it is impossible to know if you would like the hundreds of possible films.

while for the oil and gas crowd that number maybe informative for the overwhelming majority of people it is of no immediate use and of no use at all if you don’t know the airspeed velocity of an unladen African swallow specially if your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries

You really didn’t look very hard then, as you can go into any of the big stores and find that every maker has 6013 and it is the single most common rod available in Thailand and often the only one, some specialty stores may have 7018 and 7016 others will have more exotic ones I only have 2 boxes as I have virtually stopped using stick

The physics definition is The watt is a measure of the rate of energy transfer over a unit of time However nobody commonly uses watts to measure water or most other things that are not electrical in nature. What is the energy unit and time unit in your question of watts? And how does that translate? Here is an example my water pressure is 30 psi the flow is 10 litres per minute, both are easily understood. Please convert that into watts and explain the conversion. So if you want an answer that is directly related to water use PSI and litres per minute/hour

Yes sure. You can find all the scam devices available here

No problem, there are numerous measurements of power depending on exactly what is being measured just to measure flow here are a selection of the available measurements kg/day kg/h kg/min kg/s Ib/day Ib/h Ib/min Ib/s ton/day ton/h ton/year UK ton/day UK ton/h UK ton/year US ton/day US ton/h US ton/year _---------_ kmol/h kmol/h kmol/min kmol/min| kmol/s kmol/s Ibmol/h Ibmol/h Ibmol/min Ibmol/min Ibmol/s Ibmol/s mol/h mol/h mol/min mol/min mol/s mol/s std ft (32°F,1 atm)/min std ft (32°F,1 atm)/s std ft? (60°F,1 atm)/h std ft (60°F,1 atm)/min std liter (0°C, 1 atm)/h std ft? (60°F,1 atm)/min std liter (0°C, 1 atm)/h std liter (0°C,1 atm)/min std liter (0°C,1 atm)/min std liter (0°C,1 atm)/s std liter (0°C,1 atm)/s std liter (15.6°C, 1 atm)/h std liter (15.6°C,1 atm)/h std liter (15.6°C, 1 atm)/min std liter (15.6°C,1 atm)/min std liter (15.6°C, 1 atm)/s std liter (15.6°C,1 atm)/s std m3 (0°C, 1 atm)/h std m3 (0°C, 1 atm)/min std m3 (0°C,1 atm)/s std m3 (15.6°C, 1 atm)/h std ms (15.6°C,1 atm)/min std m3 (15.6°C,1 atm)/s _-----------_ bbl/day bbl/h bbl/min bbl/s bbl/year f†3/day ft?/h ft?/min

Water is measured in psi or bar in Thailand along with the flow rate at litres per minute or hour, none of that converts to watts. Watts are an electrical term. Along with that there is no standard, or even usual, pressure/flow it depends on too many variables and goes from 0/0 to respectable.

Pushback is a symptom of too fast wire speed for the voltage rather than too fast travel speed. Little to do but drop the wire feed or increase the voltage, you could change your travel speed as well, but don’t be tempted. Once you have the weld sounding good (so the correct setting for the job) then you can play with travel speed. I had the money for a gas MIG and finally found the place to get the gas for it. A useful video is under, basically ignore all the numbers and listen to the way the weld sounds, then fiddle with the settings until it sounds about right (do not change your travel speed), in 20 minutes you should be getting close to the correct settings.

I totally disagree with that. I tried it for weeks/ months and until I started using 3mm+ steel I had managed to create more holes than welds, even then I found it very easy to make warped frames. The long and short was that the welder got put away as it wasn’t easy or pleasant to use. The Thai name is 6013!! It is printed on every box. 6013 is compatible. With Thai I completely agree. If is a very cheap machine it can’t use gas shielding. You have missed the travel speed from that list, however none of those are anything close to the difficulty of Sick Wire speed: if the a weld stutters badly you are using way too little, if the gun gets pushed back to you you are way to fast Amps(on my machine it’s Volts no setting for amps): if the weld metal is humped up increase the voltage, if the weld is glowing for a long time after you have finished decrease the voltage. Gas flow rate: keep the ball in the centre of the gage, you may be using more than you need but it’s certainly enough. All of the settings are easily adjusted while you weld, or stop adjust and start again. The learning to make something usable was in hours and I have only burned one hole and that was on 1.2mm tube. I have also successfully welded some 0.9mm steel packing strips. Is it beautiful? No, but then it’s just a practice test proof of concept and with a use for the metal (it was free) I know I am easily capable of using it in a project. So in short MIG is easier to learn and, for me, fun to use. Stick was never easy and, for me, not fun to use.

Japan allows people who fulfil the stay requirements to stay as long as they are in compliance with them, and even then if you have been living there for a substantial period of time they are much more relaxed about allowing you to have less income than the rules require. Personally I lived in Japan for about 27 years with annual extensions of stay based on work Not at all, I could have got a permanent visa (10 years) if I had chosen Again incorrect. Stay in Japan legally for more than 10 years and the process of getting a permanent extension, while taking a long time and requiring a lot of paperwork, is not at all difficult. Also the annual extension process is less onerous than the Thai one. I have never been asked for more documents Thai I provided or been told that the requirements changed.

Correct it’s the MacBook Pro and iMac that get the M3 chips you are going to have to wait about 6 months for the Air

The video you linked is exactly him talking about iOS at the first, I haven’t watched all the way through, so unless you didn’t watch it at all I fail to understand your statement, having read further it seems you didn’t, so it doesn’t help your argument. From a user’s point of view, Mac’s are just vastly more reliable and easer to use. So while they may be able to be better built it is virtually irrelevant to the user specifically because the Apple warranty service is so phenomenally good. Were the repair service similar to the other companies it would drastically impact the brand loyalty that Apple has. That is his (and it seems your) viewpoint. The “rip off” claim is totally subjective not objective. It is very possible to make arguments that the restrictions are beneficial to customers, as while there are superb repair technicians who can do a good job, there are many more who can bodge things. The problem with that is that the superb repair does nothing to enhance Apple (the product failed after all) while the bodge jobs have a disproportionate negative influence on Apple (the product failed and the repair tech didn’t or couldn’t do anything) so the inference is that the failure was because of Apple, not the repair tech. So by making repairs in house Apple ensures that they can make the customers happy (or at least not unhappy) I have had 2 MacBook Pro’s over the years that had significant faults, both had extremely fast turnaround’s on repair (the fastest was just over 48 hours from collection to return) they got ¾ repairs each over 2+ years then I received a newer model as a replacement. So buy 1 get 1 free!!

He is an excellent repair technician, I agree, however he is far from an expert on iOS. His experience is very usual for someone who is expert in an OS and experiences the frustration of a different one doing things in a different way or not being able to do the thing you want to do. Becoming expert in an OS takes weeks and you will still find things that trip you up. My experience of the android OS was comparable in frustration to his experience with iOS. You seem to think that having skill in electronics and repair of a product has any relevance to the ability to use the product, they are completely different skill sets. Also the knowledge of one operating system doesn’t directly translate to another. That along with the criticisms just show that he doesn’t know that much about iOS as I have been able to do everything he complains about reasonably easily.

It very much depends on the particular product and your enthusiasm for dissection, the more expensive the product the more likely that you maybe able to get to the power supply, disassemble it, and return it to working order. However in the many Apple computers I’ve had and been given and worked on I have never experienced a problem with the power supply, Apple engineering of the PSU is just too good.

Just buy from Apple online store

It hasn’t changed. You need to be 100% sure of your connection as you can find that a doggie one is now a police informant. That must have been last century if it ever existed for other than dealers in kilogram quantities, or you are thinking of Thailand. it certainly was not the case in the last 30 years. For other drugs it is possible that it may have happened but nothing was printed in the English language papers.

I now understand that by feathering the clutch you mean using the clutch, and of course you must use the clutch on a non auto bike. To me the term “feathering the clutch” means to partially engage is so that it slips but still provides forward momentum, and that is something I virtually never do It is possible but only if the clutch is so worn as to have required replacement some long time ago 😉 There your analogy breaks down. When driving in slow to stop go traffic in a manual car you have zero option but to use the clutch. When driving in the same traffic on a bike you can filter through the majority of the traffic without stopping and little use of the clutch if you have the slow stable riding skills that come from doing it for hours daily, FWIW I would class the rider in the video I posted as not the most experienced, as while he may have just qualified at 10 seconds (it’s not easy to get an exact time) he was far less stable than he could have been and inconsistent in speed. As to being tedious the squishy automatic is significantly less responsive and requires much more use of brakes so it’s swings and roundabouts. Ride it as if you’re in a car the squishyness becomes irrelevant. Ride it faster through traffic and I am sure which transmission will get you there faster and more comfortably.