sometimewoodworker

Possibly, I wouldn’t know, other than having ridden hundreds of thousands of miles and commuting daily in city traffic averaging 2,500km per month. In my years of riding I may have stalled a bike very occasionally if I was riding a different one for the first time but I never did it more than once and even then I can’t recall a single occasion but it is possible, this would suggest that your ridding style is somewhat less than optimal. I can be reasonably sure that I would recall stalling as none of the bikes I have owned had electric start apart from a 400-Four and few of the ones I borrowed (including the Japanese riding test bike) had that SWMBO’s bike does but I almost never ride it. A side note is that the Japanese unlimited test has a raised bridge/balance beam test that requires you to take more than 10 seconds, I was told that my time was almost 15 seconds that section of the test is at 4:42 Though I have ridden through dense traffic at slow speeds, often at below walking pace I can’t remember feathering the clutch much, through I must have done it, I certainly never needed to replace a clutch and my Norton commando probably had over 250,000 miles on it with a few hundreds of thousands of those in Paris.

Your statement is absolutely true, however it rather lacks context. You are not differentiating between the classes of riders. in our local villages 7+ years old ride bikes, too many have no thought or concept of the possible dangers, none of them wear any protective gear, grandads get smashed on lao kaw and ride drunk, police don’t enforce helmets outside towns, there are no clothing regulations, there is little to no safety training, riding into oncoming traffic on dual carriage ways is usual, there is little concern of spinal damage when putting an accident victim into the back of a pickup for transport to a hospital etc. So given all of the above, which is not comprehensive, the statistics are not so shocking. But with proper clothing, a well maintained bike, road safety training etc the risks are enormously less than the raw statistics suggest. Being protected by a car is safer and probably always will be, riding a motorcycle isn’t a dangerous as many suggest but is less safe than driving.

Having ridden bikes in a reasonably large selection of cities that include most of Europe including a lot in Paris places like Cambodia, Bangkok, and many years in Tokyo & that is skimming the surface if the places. FWIW I have never had a small bike until recently, if you are feathering the clutch much you don’t know how to ride a bike. In the hundreds of thousands of miles I’ve driven I can’t recall feathering the clutch more than a handful of times to reduce speed. You should be able to ride feet up at a slow walking pace in first gear. an automatic bike is probably less able to be driven at slow speeds and be stable than a normal bike

Lots of “don’t buy one” I’ve ridden motorcycles in Thailand for years on my trips over here. The only reason I don’t ride now is I live in the countryside and have no need for short transport, if I do I use SWMBO’s bike. I have ridden from Bangkok to Singapore and back, Bangkok to Chang Mai but took the train back all on a 110cc bike, with the bike. Today it’s a 120km round trip to town and a car is better for me. If I lived in Bangkok I would have a motorcycle again. Recommendations; get an expensive good quality helmet, don’t ride in flip flops wear bike boots, a friend didn’t he lost toes in an accident. wear gloves. wear a long sleeved jacket leather is best wear long trousers If you can’t commit to wearing sensible clothes DO NOT GET A BIKE. Accidents happen good clothing like a leather jacket drastically reduce the damage you suffer.

You really need to pay attention to the thread and actually understand the stampings on hole punches. I never asked about a nonexistent spanner/wrench. You are demonstrating that this area is one that you have no knowledge or understanding of, you may be knowledgeable in other areas but here you are not. Many/ hole punches have an imperial and metric marking so it is likely that @Crossy , since he posted the picture, could have that punch in his possession and so could look and post the answer. All the hole punches I have, including the 27mm one, have this on them. The markings on the punch give the size of the hole. The only possible relevance to a thread size would the the clearance given and since hole punches can not cut anything but thin sheet metal or plastic so the larger punches have no relation to thread size or spanner’s. Your answer wasn’t in anyway helpful, relevant, or even close to the point, and you still seem not to understand why.

I would be interested in what you think you are talking about. The 28.3mm has absolutely nothing to do with thread sizes or hex bolt sizes. It is the diameter of the hole that it can punch. It is likely that it uses a 10mm socket cap screw and an 8mm Allen wrench

He is talking BS or has no idea that older items like the series 3, 7 & SE version 1 get dropped

Apple has not said they will discontinue making watches. So your post makes no sense. They are dropping older models as is usually the case, but the watches continue.

There is also, practice, practice, practice. one tip do a right angle weld then fill up the angle with multiple passes like this. this is before cleaning and while not pretty I am producing strong enough welds on 1.2mm tube to make useable hanging racks. Once I have finished it I’ll be cutting it to see how well or badly I’ve done.

They are great, I’ve got a few and for thin sheet steel (electrical boxes) and plastic electrical boxes, they are perfect. However if you have a thicker steel (1mm+) you can deform the bolt threads, I have one that the HT socket cap screw is now virtually unusable and I need to source a replacement just for interest what is the imperial size of the 28.3mm

The pairing with your iPhone is a function of the Apple Watch so where you get it from is irrelevant, the ability to share a number is a function of the watch but may need the provider of service for your iPhone to assist, again it doesn’t matter if you got it from them or not. My iPad has the same number as my iPhone however it requires an add on package with AIS (my phone company) that includes 2Mb of extra data for ฿100, I got it from Apple directly and the AIS store programmed the sim. It is quite likely that the Apple Watch uses the same system but as it’s one of the few Apple products I don’t have I don’t know.

If you use one of the phone companies already then you may be able to get a bit of a lower price with one of them, otherwise either an Apple authorised reseller or the Apple online shop will be the wasy to go. The last question “which will pair watch with Iphone?” I don’t understand.

The iPhone X, 11, and SE (V2) are all supported by Apple iOS 17 so should be supported by all transfer software so choosing a iPhone 12 is unnecessary from a support POV if your only use is as an iPod My old phones and iPods are all supported by the transfer SW I use. That Apple isn’t supporting them anymore is irrelevant as they continuing to function happily. But if you really want a newer model then you have just found out exactly why Apple can charge the prices they do as the phones hold their value unlike Android ones.

It’s been done, here is one under construction

If you want an iPhone to use just as an iPod (I have a couple I use like that a 3GS and a 6S) why are you looking for an iPhone 12?

The Thai Apple Store has no refurbished section so you can’t buy them in Thailand. The price is in Baht, so it is not refurbished. Singapore has a refurbished Apple store. There are no, iPhones available. Hongkong has a refurbished Apple store. There are no, iPhones available. the USA has a refurbished Apple store. There are no, iPhone 13s available. the U.K. has a refurbished Apple store. There are iPhone 13s available

Any booth in MBK will do that for you. ????

I personally use shellac as my primer as it goes over everything and everything goes over it. after the first coat I never thin finish unless it can’t be sprayed because it’s too viscous.

It is usually good practice to thin the first coat as it allows better adhesion.

AAA is a thinner. If you should thin finishes depends on the instructions. Virtually all Thai will thin, I only thin if I am spraying and only if absolutely required. The last photo, according to google, is

It’s easily sourced from a good electrical supply store. We got ours from our supplier in UdonThani. If you know an actual electrician they probably can tell you where to get it locally. I have some lengths from our last installation. For those who don’t know what it is it’s like this rather overkill for our project but our electriction specified it.

Exactly, though some butchery may well be involved. You should use batteries that no longer hold much charge as the replacement will destroy the existing cells.

The claimed Ah numbers are fake. The prices are likely to be a better guide. However it is far better to get the battery cells replaced as then you have a far better chance of getting a good result.

FWIW I don’t have 12V tools, mine are 18V. I have one aftermarket battery the information on the advert and on the battery are the only fake things about the AM battery, it claims 6.0Ah but is clearly 3.0Ah or slightly less, it is fractionally lighter than the Makita one but only a smidjin, it is exactly the same size as the 3.0Ah and a genuine 6.0Ah is bigger and unobtanium in Thailand .

There are no bargains in the after market batteries. The cheaper they are the worse they are. You may get an equivalent to a brand name battery for about 20% less price but you don’t know if the quality is the same as the original. The only lower price way to get an as good or better is to get a reputable company to replace the cells with top quality branded 18650s